**Breadbox** is an integrated electronics prototyping workstation. I made this to keep everything in one place so I don't have to shuffle 20 plastic boxes. The plan is to design practical electronic modules that fit into Gridfinity Squares. This will be the worktable of future projects, and will be redesigned for aesthetics. ![[2024-10-03 10.04.56 1.jpg]] # Contents [[#Power Module Enclosure]] [[#Arduino Mega GF Module]] [[#Arduino Mega Print Tests]] [[#Arduino Mega Holder Pics]] [[#Construction Plan]] [[#Silicone Adhesive Tests]] [[#Measure]] [[#Shopping]] [[#Painting]] [[#Cutting Aluminum Extrusions]] [[#Backboard Painting]] [[#Backboard Construction]] [[#Final Assembly]] [[#GFM Module Ideas]] --- #### Power Module Enclosure The last one I printed didn't work right. It's still wobbling and poking out. Unfortunately I have to go up to like 8u height so it's going to be like a pillar of power. 1u vertical is 6mm. 1u lateral is 42mm. This power module is about 50mm tall overall. I also need to model a snap plate ![[Power Module Measurements.png]] ##### Faceplate Print Test 1 71.25mm x 39.00mm ![[Power Module Measurement 2.png]] Need to expand the 39.00 -> 39.50mm, since the frame catches ever so slightly on the Green Terminal Blocks Need to expand the 71.25 -> 72.00mm, since the frame can't slide on very easily, and then it absolutely cannot pass the little frame snapper things. Need to add a 1/2" x 2mm bite out of the inner, center, shortsides Making it 1/2" + 1mm ![[Pasted image 20241003065312.png]] ##### Faceplate Print Test 2 ![[Pasted image 20241003072046.png]] ![[Faceplate Print Test 2.png]] That extra 1mm isn't necessary after all, and creates play. The tabs terminate so close to the face, the print would be really thin. I'm considering just making a long full shaft that wraps around the tabs instead of trying to snap into them. If I do that though, I'll end up obscuring the Terminal Labels. They really want me to make this thing like 1mm thick... I don't want to. Also, the shortside face of the module is longer than the frame's face, which makes it look stupid. I can make the trim even for both sides, but then it'll mushroom/pillow at the top. It's high enough off the ground that that shouldn't matter. It's only casting a shadow onto the arduino, after all. Let's try it Changes: - Increase top fillet to 3mm - Reduced tab slot to 1/2"+0mm - Increased border trim to 6mm on all sides (51.50mm x 84.00mm) ##### Faceplate Print Test 3 ![[Pasted image 20241003075722.png]] ![[Pasted image 20241003075750.png]] There's too much lip on the top and bottom. It turns out the backside of the face has uneven thickness. It's a simple fix though. New Border: (48mm x 84mm) I think it's ready to print the whole thing now. ![[Pasted image 20241003081601.png]] Came out great, fits great. We did it! #### Arduino Mega GF Module ![[Pasted image 20241003165621.png]] A Gridfinity Module to hold an Arduino Mega. It uses a 2x3 tray as a base. I used this image to get the placement and dimensions of the holes. In this case, I just imported this image as a canvas into Fusion and traced the outline and circles. ##### Arduino Mega Dimensions ![[Arduino-Uno-Mega-Dimensions-1.webp]] #### Arduino Mega Print Tests ##### Arduino Mega Mount Print Test 1,2,3 - Tried something funky like this with splines so I'm not printing an entire plate. - 3mm circles don't work. The holes on the arduino are 3.25mm. - It seems like 2.5mm diameter shafts will work better. The height seems fine. ##### Arduino Mega Mount Print Test 4 - Reducing the mount peg diameter to 2.5mm worked great. But since they're only 3mm tall, the backside solder and pins are actually blocking a flush connection. I might need to design the mount plate to route around them, which is something I hadn't considered before. - A quick look at the layout of all these pins means the routing would be pretty awkward looking. I plan on having this basically embedded into the floor of the Gridfinity Piece like the Transistor checker either way, so I'll just make the pegs taller for now. - *Little pegs poking out ready to hold an Arduino* - The taller pegs work fantastic. But since I have extra depth, I can see now that 2.5mm is just a bit too small. - I'll try 2.8mm next. I have a feeling 2.75mm won't be properly snug. ##### Arduino Mega Mount Print Test 5 - 2.8 did not do it. Checking the 3.0 from Print1 I can see it's loose as well. - Gonna full send and print 3.25. Let's see what happens - 3.25 is very snug. Hard to get in and Hard to get out. It’s ready for the full design now. - Came out great! #### Arduino Mega Holder Pics ![[Pasted image 20241003071521.png]] ![[Pasted image 20241003071500.png]] #### Construction Plan ##### Objectives Drill a hole into the MDF, and mount the aluminum extrusion to it Cut up the old silicone mat, and use the adhesive to glue the silicone to the MDF ##### Notes - The silver extrusions I had laying around (from the Kobra Enclosure) are actually 1", not 20mm. So I just drill some holes 1/2" in from the side. - M5x20mm seems to fit perfectly fine with the tnuts I have laying around. - 4.5mm Drill bit to make the hole. - I cut up the old silicone mat into about 9 pieces of 2" strips - The adhesive is like, super toxic, so latex gloves, ventilation, etc. - It recommends sanding the surfaces first, then wiping them free of dust. It also suggests wiping the surface with a damp rag before applying. - After applying the adhesive, I used a plastic scraper to smear it around. It's pretty compliant. It's about the same consistency as my silicone sealer. - I laid down the silicone pieces and then clamped it to the wood. - It says the cure time is 12-24 hours. I threw it in the closet and we'll see what it looks like tomorrow. Also need to check on the Silicone Bonding. It cured overnight. I believe all of them were wet surfaces. Three pieces total to check. ![[Pasted image 20241009090541.png]] #### Silicone Adhesive Tests ##### Silicone Adhesive Test 1 I peeled this one off and restuck it after about 10 minutes yesterday. It seems like it still bonded fairly well. This one peeled right off. There's definitely nontrivial resistance, but it's not something I would trust mechanically. I think it's appropriate for the job of just, holding a silicone mat down. The adhesive bonds to itself and to the MDF better than the MDF bonds to itself, so I can basically skin it off. The silicone test piece itself is completely unscathed. This is probably for the best, so the mats can be re-used How do you clean silicone mats? ![[Pasted image 20241009090558.png]] ##### Silicone Adhesive Test 2 This one I used more adhesive, smeared it around carefully, applied carefully, and then clamped down and left undisturbed for ~22 hours. At first glance it seems much more bonded. Same story as Test 1, peels right off. ![[IMG_8474.jpg]] ##### Silicone Adhesive Test 3 For this one I glued it, screwed it, then clamped it down. Screwing it down causes the silicone to bow upwards, which I consider a big problem and is antagonistic to the flattening/clamping I need out of the adhesive. I think it might be best to get a custom size circular hole punch and literally just skip the silicone layer for the bolts. Either that or countersink them properly. Both are kind of a pain. I've been leaning towards a principle of silicon-mat-reusability. This one peeled off effortlessly as well ![[IMG_8475.jpg]] ##### Conclusions The adhesive I purchased is no good for binding silicone. I think that's okay though, since as I've put more effort into this, I don't think I want to permanently bind the silicone mat to the board. Especially if I slightly misalign it or something I'd be mad. I'll still use it to bind the silicone since it's by far the strongest adhesive I've tried, but the results are underwhelming. I need to decide if I'm going to holepunch the silicone or if I'm going to countersink the bolts. Are there even M5 countersink bolts? I think I'd need custom router bit and custom bolts for that. #### Measure The MDF is 13mm thick The M5 Cap Head is 5mm thick The M5 Cap Head Diameter is 8.44mm #### Shopping #shopping-list - Countersunk Screws & Drillbits ![[Pasted image 20241010172000.png]] #### Painting I'm not sure how I want to go about painting it. My first thought was to use the truck bed paint I used on the desk legs, but I have a feeling that will be too rough and won't be very nice. My second thought was to use the paint bucket I used on the BJJ sign. I don't think I've tested that on MDF before though, so I don't know how the finish will go. I believe I also have some of the black enamel spray paint leftover from Orbs. So I can probably just do test pieces with each of those paints and make a decision from there. But to do that I'll have to move the car, clean up the garage and lay down a tarp for painting. I have to clean the garage to get the orbs in order either way though, so it's fine I suppose. #### Cutting Aluminum Extrusions I bought the scroll saw or whatever for the BJJ sign last year, and I've read that you can use most woodworking tools for cutting aluminum as well since it's fairly soft. Or something like that. I don't really want to hit it with a hacksaw. Also, I need a new hacksaw. I could always ask Bill if he has one, or if he knows someone in the neighborhood. Worst case I can consult OlyMEGA or Lacey Makerspace or Steven #### Backboard Painting I finally took a few minutes to sand the edges, prime, and then paint the board with an extra can of black enamel I had laying around. Hoping it looks decent when it's finished. ![[Pasted image 20241017205336.png]] Gonna go ahead and send it and buy the Countersunk Screws and Drillbits.... After I set up the shopping list meta-system too. It's like a reward. #### Lamp-Mounted Camera I've been playing with the idea of mounting a camera to the lamp for a while now. I rigged up a demo by taping my webcam to it, but it sucks! I'd probably need to get myself a dedicated camera for it. ![[Pasted image 20241019061749.png]] The main problem is my phone is far too heavy for this lamp to support. So I either have to come up with a separate jig to hold the phone, or I find some high-res, lightweight camera. It doesn't need to be mobile or battery powered or anything, since it'll be installed into the desk essentially. This is just a webcam taped to a lamp. The quality is so bad though. Logitech C922 I'm pretty sure. ![[Pasted image 20241019062713.png]] #### Backboard Construction The paintjob on this piece of wood is not great. The enamel isn't fully cured and it's coming off a bit onto the desk. I can clean it with Acetone later. It's not really meant to be the once and for all. More of a prototype so I can get some organic work hours in on it and redesign it properly from there. I need to cut the aluminum sooner than later. I'm pretty sure I'll have to remove everything from the silicone mat in order to glue it on properly as well. It does look decent so far though. ![[Pasted image 20241019063818.png]] ##### Cutting Aluminum Extrusion As much as I'd like to go buy a Miter Saw, I don't really have the budget to start setting up a workshop right now. A proper workbench, toolchest, drill press, miter saw, and shop vac are first on my list in the future. For now I'll just throw this together using my hacksaw Aluminum Extrusions are 1" square The actual dimensions of the wooden board are 22" x 17.5" Almost exactly 22", just barely under 17.5" I'm doing long-side out, so I need Cut List: - 2x 22" - 2x 15.5" Look right after measuring as well, so time to cut. Cuts went well, then I did the drill hits and used the router to carve out room for the caphead screw, since it they would've partially overlapped with the Silicone. This doesn't need to be super polished because the work I'm doing isn't super polished. I'll build another one in the future appropriate to the precision of my designs. No brackets or anything holding the aluminum frame together - just positioned against the wooden board. #### Final Assembly It took a bit longer than expected, but it's all put together now. ![[Pasted image 20241019122056.png]] The board is painted, drilled, countersunk, and the aluminum is cut and installed. Then I used the caulk that only kind of works to attach the silicone mat, and ensured that no corners hang off when flipped upside down Then I reinstalled the gridfinity base - stretched it into place using a screwdriver. I also dug up some adhesive foam strips I had laying around and attached them to the bottom so the edges of the aluminum can't scratch and scuff the table below. ![[Pasted image 20241019122112.png]] It's a bit thicker overall than I was expecting, but it's very sturdy, and can slide smoothly but not accidentally. I'm happy with how it came out. ![[Pasted image 20241019122134.png]] #### GFM Module Ideas - Battery Drainer - Solar Tracker - Runtime Timer - 7-Segment Generic Module - Buck Converter - DC Power Supply - Multimeter - Precision Current Meter - Custom uC - Acetone Vapor Chamber Demo - Discrete 555 Timer - Run Through _Practical Electronics for Inventors_ - Battery Management System for a LiPo Battery - Solar Cell Input Power Manager - Power Monitor - Smart Power Bank