>[!info] Basic Climbing Techniques ## Overview Climbing works a variety of [muscle groups](https://climbontherocks.com/blogs/rock-climbing-blog/what-muscles-does-rock-climbing-work-out). Climbing requires coordinated engagement of muscles throughout the upper and lower body. Full-body movements involved in ascending assorted rock surfaces build functional strength. Muscular endurance improves through sustained flexing while overall endurance improves as a cardio workout. Full joint articulation contributes to greater mobility, and the wide range of motion increases flexibility. ## Notes ### General Training #### Routine Bouldering simultaneously trains all around strength and skill. Most bouldering gyms provide specific colored routes, but the climber is not beholden to follow them. Limit bouldering allows the climber to set their own problem, making it as hard as possible without making it impossible. A spray wall is a good place to practice this type of training. This is a steep bouldering wall densely packed with climbing holds of various shapes and sizes. Training routines for climbing are similar to [[strength training]]. Climbing sessions should be limited to every other day at most, and periodized between easy and hard weeks. ### Endurance Endurance is the foundation for any climbing problem. Strength, agility and technique follow. Climbing endurance is different from swimming or running endurance. It requires the capacity to maintain stability in a variety of body positions while accommodating repetitive explosive movements. The following routines are [suggested](https://climbontherocks.com/blogs/rock-climbing-blog/rock-climbing-endurance-and-stamina) for improving grip endurance. #### Grip Training * **Endurance intervals** * Warm up thoroughly * Climb easy-to-moderate problems with minimal rest between attempts * manageable durations * 5 minutes climbing and 2-3 minutes rest * Repeat for 30-45 minutes * **Ex:** climb three V2-V3 problems then rest for 3 minutes. Repeat 8-10 times. * **Classic 4x4 workout** * four quality benchmark problems * Climb each problem without resting between them * Take exactly 4 minutes rest * Repeat for a total of 4 sets * Farmer's Walks * Max pull-ups with perfect form * Rest 60-90 seconds * Do 4-5 sets of 50-80% * take decent rests (at least four minutes) between burns ### Strength Strength in climbing is more nuanced than in weightlifting. Climbing differentiates between strength and power. In climbing, strength is the ability to exert enough force to overcome sustained resistance of gravity against body weight. This is the energy necessary to make a slow, controlled reach for a hold while hanging upside down. [[Grip strength]] is the maximum force with which a hold can be grasped, while contract strength describes the ability to grab a hold with force the moment it is touched. In terms of upper body strength, the most important abilities are classically weak-arm positions: underclings, side-pulls, and gastons. These are best trained on a systems board using mirrored problems that focusm specifically on these positions. Power is the ability to exert force at a high velocity. This is the force required for big, dynamic moves across a rock face. Where strength might be used for keeping oneself steady in a position, power is used for making actual movements. Power training concentrates on the core and lower body training. A spray wall is the best tool for training specifically power, as it usually has larger holds and more options. For core training, the essential ability is to be able to swing the feet back onto the wall after cutting loose. Additionally, tension is an oft under-appreciated component of strength in climbing. This is the force spread across the body, between hands and feet during moves when it is stretched out. Body tension depends on upper back, shoulder, and core strength. [Board training](https://trailandcrag.com/rock-climbing/board-training) is helpful when approaching the V5-V7 range of bouldering problems. It is the most effective exercise for grip strength, contact strength, upper body power, and core strength. Hangboarding isolates forearm strength, while other boards introduce different grip/movement combinations, replicate specific sequences, or allow for creative license for the climber to make up their own problems. Standardized walls, such as systems boards like the Moonboard, provide training on problems of a specific difficulty. Spray walls are helpful for training dynamic moves from hold to hold. * Hangboard Routines * Hang from edge sizes challenging at 10+ seconds * Repeat hangs with 10-30 seconds on, 1-2 minutes rest * Complete 6-8 hangs for 2-3 sets * Systems Boards * 4-6 move "boulders" across a section composed of 6-10 hand movements. * This trains both power endurance for completing back-to-back dynamic moves * This workout works the relevant muscles on both sides of the body equally. * Campus Boards * Train contact strength and explosive power. #### Training Intensity Intensity in climbing training is defined primarily by grip endurance and movement. Training intensity informs susceptibility to injury. High intensity sessions should consist two to four projects that are so hard that the individual moves are nearly impossible on first attempt. Medium intensity sessions consist of six to twelve moderately hard problems, while low intensity sessions easily complete around 20 to 30 problems including warmups. Rest between sets is the critical factor in managing training intensity. At high intensity, each attempt should be followed by at least four minutes of rest. Moderate intensity should include 2-3 minutes rest. Low intensity sets include at least 1 minute rest between sets, though a set may include 2-3 routes. ## Thoughts - [[intimacy]] between the route setter and climber on an indoor wall. A route will be set according to the route setter's [[body]] and [[cognition|mind]]. The climber has to interpret one and adapt to the other.