## Editor's Introduction Samuel More (1726-99) was the longstanding secretary to the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce - essentially, Britain's voluntary subscription-funded national improvement agency, which bestowed prizes on unpatented inventions. More was considered one of the leading experts on inventions and industry of the late eighteenth century, and was friends with many of the most celebrated inventors of his day, including the agriculturist Arthur Young, the potter Josiah Wedgwood, the ironmaster John "Iron Mad" Wilkinson, the chemist Joseph Priestley, and the steam engine pioneers Matthew Boulton and James Watt. More was originally a London apothecary and may have worked briefly for the library of the British Museum (later the British Library). He became a member of the Society of Arts in 1761, was active on all of its main committees, and chaired the committee of chemistry 1762-67, before becoming Secretary in 1770 - a post he held until his death in 1799. He created and edited the Society’s first printed Transactions from 1783. The travel diaries of Samuel More, now held in the British Library as Add MS 89126/1-4 were brought to my attention by a researcher in 2023. When they were still in private hands, some extracts from them relating to Shropshire were known to some researchers and available in the Ironbridge Gorge Library, transcribed by Anne Turner for Frank Dawson's [biography](https://www.amazon.co.uk/John-Wilkinson-Frank-Dawson/dp/0752464817) of the ironmaster John Wilkinson. But otherwise they had not been used by researchers. I have not yet been able to discover who held the diaries when Dawson had them transcribed, as I am desperate to find more of them. As you will see, the diaries are an incredibly rich source of information about the economy and industry of Britain in the midst of its invention-led transformation. More's own expertise - he is often found giving useful advice to some of the most prominent inventors of the age, as well as acting as a kind of celebrity doctor in the towns and villages he visited - mean that his descriptions of many techniques and technologies are often second to none. My aim is to expand this document as I discover more of the diaries and others of his papers, so that it can deserve the title of "The Samuel More Collection". For the time being, however, it mainly covers Add MS 89126/1-4, to which I have appended further notes. I have taken photographs of almost every page (other than where indicated, with the most gaps in the first volume), within quotation marks providing full transcriptions (but with modernised spellings, expanded contractions and corrected grammar for ease of reading) for anything relating to industry and technology, and with anything outside of quotation marks noting the gist of what the document says. Anything in square brackets are my own further notes, often to provide further context for my own use, but which may be useful to others too. The numbers separating paragraphs and sometimes splitting them mid-sentence are the page numbers of the manuscripts, with both the inked number and folio numbers where they have diverged. My photographs of the document are available to researchers upon request, particularly for those who wish to make more precise quotations from the original without my corrections and modernisations. Any spelling errors or typos are likely my own. If you find any, or discover more information about the missing Samuel More diaries, please get in touch. Enjoy! Anton Howes v1 posted 21/12/23 ## Add MS 89126/1 ### 1763 to Cornwall 1763 1 4 September 1763 Leaves London at 7am, breakfast with Mr Newcombe at Hammersmith, cross the Thames at Kew Bridge; “the centre arch of this bridge had sunk considerably, and the workmen were attempting by some machines to raise it again into its proper place”. Call on Dr Lewis at Kingston. He was away from home, but they met him before reaching Esher and he wishes them a good journey. Nothing noteworthy “except that the appearance of the hills, and the sandyness of the roads greatly resembled that part of Buckinghamshire near Wooburn, where the Fuller’s Earth is found; yet I did not perceive any strata of iron stone in the hills such as is seen there, but the water in many places as it lay in the ditches seemed to be impregnated 2 with particles of iron” Dined at Cobham, passed through Guildford - “well built and has at least three churches in it” Visits the ruin of Catherine Hill Chapel and for the view of the country, “which is hilly and covered with beautiful woods, a pleasant stream runs between the hills called Guildford River which joins the Thames a little above Walton Bridge” Nothing extraordinary on the way to Godalming “except that towards evening the sun shining upon the hills (and it was the first time we had the happiness to his face this day) gave us a very pleasing prospect of them” “At Godalming we went to the back of the town where General Oglethorpe has a seat, the house appears ancient and near it on a rising ground is a beautiful grove of trees, at the bottom of which runs a brook that joins the Guildford River. 3 On this stream a little above the general’s house is a corn mill whose shaft is turned by an overshot water wheel, of 11 feet diameter, and the miller informed me there are several other overshot wheels turned higher up by the same stream.” Notes the church steeple “a little out of its perpendicular” but it was too late to see well inside. “We were told that in this town there are three master weavers of coarse woollen cloth, and several framework knitters, many of whom we saw at work as we passed through the town. Some of the cloth was drying on the pales before the general’s house. We lay this night at the George at Godalming a large and well built inn, our wine and eating exceeding good and our accommodations very elegant.” Friday September 2nd: “We left Godalming about 7 this morning and passed over several high hills on the Portsmouth Road, the country very sandy but 4 the rains which had fallen the preceding day, prevented any dust, and the mistiness of the morning clearning off, we had several very fine views of the country. The hills are all covered with fern and heath, and the latter being in blossom, the appearance was very beautiful.” Passes the Devil’s Punch Bowl, then leaves the Portsmouth Road turning off left towards Chichester. About two miles further on the Chichester Road again turned to the left and at 9 came to Hazlemere “a small market town in Sussex where we breakfasted on hot cakes and most excellent butter, our liquour milk-pune [?] of which if Hebe should ever carry Jupiter 5 a bowl he would certainly never taste nectar again. This town afforded us nothing worthy our attention as Virtuosi. There is a paper mill in the neighbourhood but on the common principles. Here we met Mr Saunderson, a worthy and ingenious divine with whom I was formerly intimate in London.” After breakfast towards Chichester again passing over some high hills, “some chalk, some stone, some sand, but as it rained a good deal we could not make many observations”. Pass through Midhurst “an indifferent place”. Before entering Midhurst on the left saw “a most magnificent ancient seat belonging to Lord Viscount Montacute [Montagu?] a Roman Catholic” From the summit of the hills could see Chichester and the sea in the distance, but the weather was hazy 6 [did not photograph] 7 Near the entrance to Chichester “is a very neat building, called the Poor’s House over which an aged man and his wife preside and great benefit is said to accrue to the city from their care and attention. If this is fact surely we may wish a larger city would take example from it.” [his underlining - means London?] “We entered the city by an old ruined gate which can give a passenger under it no other idea than that it is just falling on his head.” Visits the cathedral, etc etc 8, 9 [did not photograph] 10 Rode in the afternoon to Goodwood, seat of the Duke of Richmond about 3 miles from Chichester “situated in a fine park full of large spreading beech trees and well stocked with deer. Adjoining to the house is a garden whose wall formerly measured an exact mile, but his grace has lately lessened it. What I observed most remarkable in the garden was a subterranean passage fifty yards long, at the end of which stands part of the old cross of Chichester, that was taken down when the late Duke repaired it. A fine pinery well stored with plants. An house built in the manner of the Laplanders’ houses. A gothic building called St Paul’s Portico whose roof is supported in 11 the same manner as that of Westminster Hall. I crossed a narrow road and entered a grove, called from its being planted with arbor vitae trees the Arbor Vitae Grove. In this grove is a small building called St George’s Porch, ornamented with a picture of the story of his slaying the dragon and rescuing the lady who is kneeling in the distance and praying for his success. Round the sides of this building are the coats of arms of the first knights of the garter. From this part of the grove is seen at about half a mile distant a seat upon the top of an high hill which is said to command one of the finest prospects in the kingdom” but it was too late in the evening to have seen far from it so “I saved myself the labour of going to it” “In the park near the house are the stables built by the present Duke [by William Chambers from 1757], very elegant indeed 12 the whole building forms a large and beautiful quadrangle. The outside fronts are made of flint cut or broken into pieces about four inches square. The inside fronts are fine brick. The horses I most admired were two Spanish horses lately brought from abroad, one of them ran from the Spanish Army unto the English, the other is a small grey horse a great favourite of Lady George Lennox [nee Lady Louisa Kerr, daughter of the 4th Marquess of Lothian] who with Lord George [younger brother of the 3rd Duke of Richmond] was in the stables at the same time I was. There is a fine set (eight) of black coach horses and several beautiful stallions both hunters and race horses. Here I saw a curious monkey and a very tame raccoon and was told there was an animal kept in the garden bred between a wolf and a fox which I was very sorry the Duke was ever possessed of as the gardener informed it had killed the tortoise I had the honour to present his grace many years since.” 13 Saturday September 3rd Went to the top of Chichester Cathedral for the view as it was a clear day, “from whence is a beautiful and extensive prospect. Towards the north lay the hills over which we had passed the day before. To the east, and west, were many fine enclosures, and to the south rich meadows terminated by the sea, and the Isle of Wight.” [Sussex countryside in 1763] “In the market was some fish the prices as follows. Soles 18d per pound, prawns 18d per hand, oysters from 4d to 8d per hand.” [is he thinking of the Society of Arts fish land carriage scheme???] “Near the cross is a conduit for supplying the city with fresh water, which is conveyed through leaden pipes from a spring that rises in the hills about [a] mile distant to the northward” “The town house is a neat brick building supported by columns which form a kind of piazza under this is kept a sort of cage made of iron into which any person is put for small offences and wheeled to any part of the city, and there exposed to public view.” 14 “Walking the North Street, one of the principal streets of the city, I saw in a cage a brace of partridges brought from the Havannah [Havana - which had been under British occupation until Feb 1763], they greatly resembled in their plumage some of our fine coloured pigeons. I went to the Poor’s House (which everyone is admitted to see) and could not avoid admiring the cleanliness which is seen in every part of it; the goodness of the provisions; and the civility of the master; the girls were employed in spinning thread; all the boys that were of sufficient age and strength to work, were employed out of doors, the younger ones at school. There is a chapel within this Poor’s House where the service of the church is performed every day and a sermon preached once a month by the clergymen of the city who take it by turns and officiate gratis.” Leave at 10am through the west gate, “we soon came to some fine meadows and rode 15 down to the river which runs about a mile westward of the town. Along this road the hops were very fine so that notwithstanding the damage they have sustained in Kent those in Sussex have escaped. There were many bees about the cottages but I saw not more than ten hives at any one apiary.” Pass through two or three villages until Havant: “on the left hand side of this town is a very fine spring, the water remarkably clear and bright.” Indifferent church. Afternoon continue towards Portsmouth. About a mile from Havant “is a fine house with a beautiful wood on an hill near it belonging to Mr Warner.” 16 About three miles further rose up a hill from which had a good view: “we could distinguish several vessels lying close to the horizon, the town of Portsmouth with Spithead, and the Men of War at anchor, at four or five miles distance completed the view and rendered it the most entertaining I had ever seen.” Pass by several villages and Hilsey Barracks to Portsmouth. Portsmouth: “much cleaner than I expected but our accommodations (at the King’s Arms) were intolerably bad. The ramparts which encircle the town afford some agreeable walks and in many places very extensive views of the harbour and Isle of Wight. There is an handsome town house, adjoining to which is the market house well stored with all sorts of 17 provisions. At one end of the market are placed three or four rows of large stones, on which the fish is exposed to sale. We bought some small prawns for 6d per hand very good. The point is a street, a good deal resembling some parts of Wapping and Rotherhythe [Rotherhithe] and chiefly inhabited by ladies, who seem not to know what it is to refuse.” “Near the Point are bathing houses which from their appearance may I believe not improperly be called B___y Houses” [bawdy?] “The common is a street facing the harbour and leading to the dockyard.” Sunday September 4th: Took a boat to Gosport, but Mr Lane they called upon was not at home. Saw the HMS Britannia “a first rate ship carrying 112 guns but she has never been to sea. We went on board her” 18 On the way back “passed by so many Men of War, several of which were returned from the Havana, in a shattered condition, and among them were some Spanish ships, seemingly very large fine vessels.” In the afternoon walked the ramparts, and at the Gunner’s House “which is situated in such a manner as to have a fine view of the mouth of the harbour we were favoured with a very good telescope by which we were enabled to distinguish some large ships coming in. On the beach I picked up the leaf of a sea plant which measured ten feet long and eight inches wide. In the gun wharf we saw a great quantity of cannon, mortars, cannon balls, etc.” Monday September 5th Windy weather so could not go to Isle of Wight. 18 Clears a bit so at 9 goes to the dockyard: “several large vessels were on the stocks. The Blenheim an old ship which has long served as an hospital in this harbour was breaking up. 120 men were employed in doing it. I went to the Smithery, among several large works in iron, they were repairing a large anchor whose weight was about 85 cwt and it afforded me much satisfaction to see how dexterously they managed it. But my pleasure was much abated when I was told that these industrious and ingenious people had not received any money from the Government for a year and a quarter past, and that the money they take up of agents, etc they pay 7.5% for, beside a certificate which costs them 4s each.” “At Portsmouth I saw many fish called there the Gold Maid. It is the same species I lately gave Dr Parsons under the name of Sea Tench.” Leave at 1:30 and went about 4 miles towards London 19 before turning left, and in half an hour arrived at Portchester — “now only a dirty village, but seems from the name to have been formerly a place of repute” Three miles further came to Fareham “a pretty market town with several good houses in it. At the upper part of the town a very handsome one pleasantly situated belonging to Sir William Bennett. From hence we travelled through a good and pleasant road to a delightful village called Wickham. The country hereabout is richly ornamented with woods interspersed with beautiful fields and in the neighbourhood are many gentlemen’s seats, particularly a very fine one belonging to Dr Garnier, but the most remarkable thing and the best worthy of remembrance is that this village was the birthplace of the famous William de Wykeham who in the reign of the greatest king that ever graced the English throne 20 Edward III, was from being a mean person, raised on account of his merit to the dignities of Lord High Chancellor and Bishop of Winchester, and received from his noble patron many other distinguished honours.” [MERITOCRACY fan?] “The greatest part of this village belongs to Jonathan Rashley Esq, who has here a very handsome house and in his neighbourhood an estate of £3,000 a year. Through the village runs a pleasant stream which turns a mill and encircles a house in manner of a moat.” Tuesday 6 September: 7am left Wickham and through “some very agreeable lanes bordered on each side by large oaks and elms, we came at about 5 miles distance to Botley, a small village at whose entrance we crossed a rivulet, over which there is a very handsome stone bridge of two arches, one of them inscribed D. Portland the other B. Winchester and on the pier between them 1758 denoting I suppose the year in which 21 it was built. We rode from hence over some pleasant commons, and came in about half an hour to a small village called West End where runs a delightful river much resembling that at Otter’s Pool in Hertfordshire and which is employed in working a brown paper mill. Then go through another village called Swadley [?], “in which is a fine seat belonging to Hans [crossed out in pencil and says William] Soane esq at the bottom of whose garden runs the river before mentioned, and which commands a fine view of the sea and town of Southampton. At a small distance from hence we came to the garden wall of Sir John Mordaunt which gardens we were told are ornamented with fountains, fish ponds, etc and indeed the situation of them seems to promise all that the most luxurious fancy can wish for, as there are in them many hills covered with flowering shrubs, from whence there is an extensive view of the sea, a fine and cultivated country and the town of Southampton.” 22 Also notes how on the top of a hill about half a mile away is a house of Doctor St Andre. “It is worth remarking that the bricks in this country seem to be the strongest and best burnt of any I have seen.” Enter Southampton by the “old gothic” north gate, “formerly used as a prison”. “Just before the entrance of the gate are placed two figures of two lions, and on the sides of the gate are painted two gigantic figures, on the inside of the gate fronting the great street is a most horrible statue of Queen Anne, which I should not have known what to have called, if the letters A. R. had not been placed on each side of her.” Notes the remains of strong walls “but at present it seems incapable of making any defence against an enemy. There is also a castle now made use of as a prison” 23 Expected to find “a great quantity of fine fish, but found very little. We purchased a few prawns not very large at 9d per hundred. The bathing houses at this town appear much more decent than those at Portsmouth, and near them we were well entertained by some boys who were very expert at diving in the sea. The great street which leads from the north gate to the market house is broad, and the houses well built so that it makes a very handsome appearance. A fine river runs by Southampton and in the afternoon we rode along the banks of it to Redbridge where we crossed it and entered a small village called Cotton [Totton?] situated in the New Forest. About 5 miles from hence we passed through Lyndhurst, where is an hunting seat belonging to the King, at which the Duke of York was last year. The road over the Forest was very agreeable and we had the pleasure to see many young colts skipping about which afforded us much entertainment.” Passed through Brockenhurst and arrived at 6:30pm at Lymington 24 Notes a river starting in the New Forest entering the sea near Lymington, “over it is a bridge with some flood gates designed to stop the salt water from rising and mixing with the fresh. But it seems they have not answered the purpose. We paid a toll for passing this bridge and at a small distance from it, saw them burning some of the same kind of bricks we had before taken notice of. They burn about 28,000 in one kiln, the fuel they use is furze of which great quantity grows all over the country.” [GORSE/FURZE FOR FUEL IN HAMPSHIRE!] Wednesday September 7th: “I went to the saltings. These are very large works carried on by several different persons for the making salt, such quantities of which are made that the duty at 3s 1d per bushel amounts communibus annis to £70,000. [240d in a £; 3s 1d = 37d, or 15.4% of a £; 70k/0.154 = 454,545 bushels per year] The sea water is let into shallow pits dug in the ground, and being exposed to the action of the sun, and air, the watery particles exhale and the brine is continually increasing in strength. 25 As it grows stronger it is let into other pits near the boiling house, and when it has attained a proper degree of strength is pumped into large wooden backs from which pipes are laid that convey it into the boilers. The pumps made use of for this purpose are worked by sails turned by the wind, in the same manner as the pumps used for draining land in Holland. The boilers are formed of plate iron, and in each boiler is made 8 bushels of salt in 8 hours. At the work I went to which is the largest among them there were 20 boilers at work. At the time I was there it was high water and the wind very brisk so that I had a fine view of the sea and a vessel coming up to take in salt at the quay on which I stood. It appeared to me that I was nearer the Isle of Wight at this place than in any other part of my journey. In order to grain the salt they make use of something which they seem to keep secret. I saw some of it and it plainly appeared to me that the greatest part of the composition is butter. What they mix with 26 it I do not know but they put into each boiler a piece about the size of a nutmeg. When the salt is sufficiently formed it is put into wooden troughs with holes in them lined with cloth and thus left to drain. The columns of salt which gather under the strainer are called salt cats, the liquor which runs from it bittern, or by the workmen bitters. This liquor they boil in the winter, and make from it the purging salt that is sold under the name of Epsom Salt. Of this Epsom Salt as it is called is also another kind of purging salt which goes by the name of Glauber’s Salt. I went to the manufactory of it in Lymington kept by Mrs Mary Mitchel who told me her grandmother first discovered the manner of refining it.” [FEMALE INVENTOR!] From the top of the town house had a view of the river and meadows on one hand and the town and sea on the other. At about 10am left and passed through Milton, coming to 27 Christchurch for dinner. The river Avon “is here divided into three streams and over each of them is a bridge.” … “At the east end is a chapel in which divine service is performed three times a week. The altar piece is very old, carved in wood, in a most barbarous taste. In one part of it lies the Virgin Mary, with the Child standing on her lap, one of the magi kneeling at her feet is presenting her with a can filled with candles, another holds in his hand (or rather her hand for it looks more like a female figure than a male one) a kind of apple pasty, called in this country a Croud Pye. There are several other figures equally ridiculous with what I have named.” etc etc on the churches 28 “The market house in this town is small. The chief employment of the inhabitants is knitting stockings.” Crossed the bridge at Iver Bridge “where the water appeared to abound with fish”, then entered a heath “nine miles over called Pool Heath with only one house upon it” Arrived at Poole at about 6pm. “I waited this evening on Sir Peter Thompson, from Mr Hollis drank coffee with him and was very politely received by all the family. Sir Gerrard Napper’s lady and her sister were there both very agreeable ladies, her ladyship very handsome” 29 Thursday September 8: In the morning visits Poole: “in the town are many good houses. Lobsters were sold here at 4d per pound, grey mullets at the same price and other fish in proportion. A fine river empties itself into the sea near this town and on the opposite side is a place called Ham [nowadays Hamworthy?] where most of the boats used by the people here in the Newfoundland Fishery are built. You are ferried over in a large boat for an half penny each. They use at this ferry neither sails nor oars, but a rope is made fast to both sides the river, and the waterman by pulling against this rope works the boat. Over at the head of the boat stands an upright piece of wood, high enough to reach above the level of the rope. When the tide flows this piece of wood is kept on that side the rope which is next the sea, and when the tide ebbs it is kept on the side next the 30 fresh water. By this means the boat is prevented being driven up or down by the current. [clever!] When a vessel comes in or goes out of the river the rope is lowered into the water. Before the late War they employed from this town 300 sail of vessels in the Newfoundland Fishery.” Leaves Poole at 11am, travels “over many commons covered with sheep”, passes a house belonging to Mr Willett, and after 6 miles crossed three small streams with bridges, coming to Wimborne [Wimborne Minster]. “This is now a mean place”, noting that anciently it must have been of great repute “The church is built in form of a cathedral and what is remarkable there is in it a kind of orrery which shows the time of the day, the full and change of the moon, and day of the month, and yet there is no account remaining 31 who gave it to the church.” etc etc on the church “At the end of the town we passed a gothic bridge overlooking some beautiful meads filled with fine cattle grazing. About this country there is a great number of gentlemen’s seats, so that we hardly ever were a quarter of an hour without one or other being in sight. We passed by one belonging to Mr Drax who is making many improvements particularly enclosing a large piece of ground for a park. [sugar/slave connection???] The commons here are very large and covered with sheep.” 32 Notes that they often lost their way, as the roads were “very intricate”, but eventually arrived at Bere [Bere Regis] a little market town. Here we regaled ourselves with the best cheer the place afforded and in the afternoon proceeded through a very watery lane to Piddle Town [Puddletown] where we again joined the turnpike road and in a short time came to Dorchester.” “Dorchester is the town so famous for the beer that goes by its name. There are about 8 or 9 public brewhouses in this town, beside the inn-keepers who many of them brew their own liquor. The town of Dorchester was anciently a Roman station, and great part of the wall is still remaining. Round the town are very handsome walks, planted with sycamore and horse chestnut trees, with seats for the accommodation of those who choose to rest themselves. These walks command prospects over the adjoining fields and meadows.” … [did not photograph pp.33-36] 37 road to Axminster: “very stony and bad so that it required the utmost care and circumspection to keep our horses on their feet” Axminster: “there occurred nothing remarkable at this town, for we did not see Mr Whitty’s manufactory of carpets, which however we propose viewing on our return” Saturday September 10th: Road towards Exeter, passing a house of Mr Tucker and came to Honiton Hill. Arrive at Honiton by about midday. 38 Market day in Honiton “and here I first began to think myself in the West of England for till we got hither I had not seen any fish either good or cheap, but in this market they sold large mackerels at one penny each, large flounders at the same price, and good whitings at 4d the dozen” “We were entertained here with a good deal of abuse against Lord Bute such as singing songs, and repeating verses about him but the chief hero among them was a country [illeg??] seemingly a man of some credit who had written a kind of sermon against him larded thick with quotations from the prophesy of Isiah. This man a few days before had preached a sermon of this kind to an audience of 2,000 persons.” [Methodists???] “A large market is kept here insomuch that I took it for a fair. We called on Mr Maynard a celebrated manufacturer of this town and promised to visit him again on our return.” 39 Went through some narrow lanes to Grange, the sea of __ Drew Esq but he and his family were away so went towards Exeter “and joined the turnpike road near the nine mile stone. In passing through the lanes in this county travellers are in frequent danger of having their legs bruised or broken by the crooks as they are called here, which are pieces of wood bent in this manner U and hanging on each side of an horse, for the farmers make use of no wheel carriages but carry everything on horses’ backs. These horses especially in going home generally gallop and it is very common to meet a dozen or more of them in a lane going that pace one following the other, and that it is with great difficulty they are avoided. Most of the persons who live in the country ride in gambadoes so that their legs are [protected] 40-41 - [not photographed] 42 Tuesday 13 September: In Exeter taken by Mr F. N. [Francis Newcombe?] to view the river “and locks upon it, which are well constructed and worthy the inspection of every traveller. The family of Courtney who were earls of Devon, having quarrelled with the Chamber of Exeter, laid a weir across the River Exe, in such manner as to obstruct the navigation. But the chamber in the reign of Q. Elizabeth made a new cut called the Hain or Haven through some lands belonging to the city, which cut joins the main river a little below Topsham. In order to keep the water of a proper depth in this channel there are erected upon it four locks which being shut prevent the water running out, and render it deep enough to float vessels of large burden. 43 When a vessel arrives at the lock (the water above which is considerably higher than that below it) some pieces of timber called here fenders are raised up, and the water runs out till the upper and lower parts of the river are brought to a level. The gates are then opened and the vessel passes through. Each ship pays for passing the locks 5s and half a crown per ton tonnage. We returned home to dinner and in our way purchased a fine salmon weighing eight pounds for 2s” Wednesday 14th Sept: Engaged to dine at St David’s Hill and Mr R. Newcombe promised to accompany him to a lead mine near Newton St Lyons about 6 miles north of Exeter. Got to the mine about 10am “and were some time before we could make any of the workmen hear us. At length however one of them arose from a shaft and offered to conduct me 44 into the works. My companion seemed a good deal surprised to find me so willing, to descend with him, but I went into a little hovel where I dressed myself in the habit of a miner and followed my conductor into the adit. At present they are not working in the mine itself but driving an adit to carry off the water. The opening I went in at was at the bottom of the hill, about six feet high and two feet wide, so that I could easily stand upright in it. The length of the adit is about 130 yards and as the hill is very steep, that part of the adit which is furthest from where I entered is about 22 fathom or 132 feet below the surface. It afforded me high satisfaction to observe in what manner the different strata of slate, spar, killas, etc lay in different parts as I passed along, and as to there being anything tremendous in it, I think I should not be in the least intimidated at going into the deepest mine in Hungary. There were four different shafts i.e. perpendicular openings 45 from the surface of the hill into the adit, through which I could see the daylight as I passed along. Yet these are not sufficient for enlightening the passage below, so I carried one candle and my conductor another. After travelling as far as I could go I found a workman (miner I should call him) prosecuting the work which to me seems very slow, towards what they call the old work by which they mean the first shaft that was sunk and where the ore was discovered. I fancy it will take them about a twelvemonth before they come to it. I returned again along the adit but as the end at which I entered was very dirty I avoided that part by coming up a short ladder shaft. I procured some specimens of this ore.” 46 Thursday 14th September Went part of the way to Topsham from Exeter, stopping at Sandy Gate, a public house, “at the back of which is a great number of rabbits. We had a ferret with us who afforded us good sport among them.” Returned for dinner at Mrs Clark’s in Exeter “who treated us with red mullet, John a Doree, etc. I had tasted the red mullet before but did not approve of it for want of knowing how to dress it. But here I was shown the proper manner of dressing it, and I confess I think its flavour much superior to any fish I ever tasted. As to the John a Doree, I do not think it at all equal in flavour to a fine sole.” In the afternoon visited Mr F N’s garden “which is well stored with fine fruits, as peaches, nectarines, morrello cherries, etc with which we heartily regaled ourselves. In this garden is a fine lemon tree, the first I saw growing in the natural earth, against a wall, and the fruit-bearing passion flower with the fruit upon it” 47 Friday 16th September: Market day: “Fish in particular was in great abundance” Went shooting with Mr F N, dinner at the Crown & Sceptre at Rockbeare. Saturday 17th September: Mr F N and he went to the cathedral [etc etc - did not photograph pp.48-54] 55 [where exactly?] “There is an overshot mill for grinding corn near the castle, and as the river makes several falls, many wheels of that sort might be erected on it. [suggests still some capacity!] We passed from hence through roads hewn out of the rock to Stourton a small village … From Stourton we came over the Downs to Lifford [Liskeard??], a small town … having heard much of Lifford Fall … I promised myself the satisfaction of seeing it, especially as I considered the falling of so great a quantity of rain this morning would render it more rapid than usual. Accordingly having provided myself a dry great coat and a guide, I set out for it. At the end of Lifford town we passed over a bridge called Lifford Bridge … from this bridge 56 it was that Captain W___s in all probability threw himself into the river. The appearance of the water, foaming in the stream at least sixty feet from the crown of the arch is very tremendous. This bridge consists of only one arch, not very wide, but whose buttresses are two rocks founded as I believe at the Creation, and whose dissolution will never be till the general destruction of all things. After passing this bridge I was under the necessity of going over some stiles as they call them in this country, that is some stones placed in the hedges, as a small distance one above the other and which project about twelve or fourteen inches from the level of the hedge. It must be remembered that the hedges themselves are no other than stones laid one upon the other, so that they are rather stone banks than hedges. We came at length to a river for so I must call it, which works a mill and near the mills forms the celebrated fall. Having passed this river and waded a considerable way half leg deep in sand and 57 water, my guide conducted me to the miller’s house, who has the key of the gate which leads to the falls. He kindly (expecting his fee) offered his service to attend me to it. We passed along many serpentine walks in a wood, through which the path was in many places down the side of a very steep hill, and from the quantity of wet were very slippery. Here I often heard the falling of water and sometimes saw it, till at length I arrived at the foot or bottom of the great falls, which is a natural cascade far exceeding my most sanguine expectations. The perpendicular fall of the water is 264 feet, but this height is not to be seen in any one situation. Yet if this account which I had from the mills is just, I think I commanded at one view at least 200 feet. Yet this was not in a perpendicular direction for according to their measurement about 50 feet from the top there is a ledge or break so that the greatest fall, in which no break or obstruction intervenes is not more than [… etc etc…] [did not photograph 58-66] 67 Friday 23 September: St Columb “a small borough town where nothing remarkable occurred” “I met here indeed a good sensible man, an apothecary named Soper, who has made a collection of the minerals of this county which he entertained me with a sight of, and in return I permitted him to take an impression of my ring in sulphur which he did very dextrously.” Arrive in Truro: nothing to notice on the road there. Way good and weather fine. Calls on Dr Russell “to whom I had been recommended by Mr Crisp. I found him entirely crippled by the gout, but in great spirits, and he received me with much good humour and politeness promising me if I had time to go with me to Huele [Wheal] Virgin the richest copper mine in the county, in which he has a share, and which turns to very great profit.” 68 Returns to the Red Lion inn for supper. Saturday 24th September: Truro river “is a large river which enters the sea near Falmouth. The tide flows to this town so that vessels of great burden come up to the quay. The chief fish caught in this river is plaice which are very large and good. They have an uncommon way of catching them. When the tide is out this fish buries itself in the sand and the common people wade into the water and groping with their hands under the sand find the fish and so catch them. The fishermen take them in nets as in other places. Adjoining to the quay is a handsome bowling green from whence is a beautiful prospect of the river and country. There are many handsome houses in this town, particularly one belonging to Mr Lemon, whose family raised a very large fortune by mining, another very handsome free stone house is now building for Mr Daniel Clark 69 to Mr Lemon. When we had walked round the town, and examined the market which is well supplied, Mr J N left me and proceeded to Illogan and I called on Mr Rosewarne, a celebrated smelter of tin in this town. I found him at his smelting house called Carvedras, about a quarter of a mile from the town. I delivered a letter to him from T. Hollis Esq [Thomas Hollis]. He received me with great civility and showed me every part of the work. The ore is brought from the mines on horses or mules each beast carrying two small sacks. The essays [assays] are made in black lead pots in a wind hole and the value of the ore determined by the product in the assay. The ore which is brought to the smelting house in fine powder is smelted in reverberatory furnaces. The fuel made use of is Welsh coal and a quantity of culm or sweet coal as it is called here is thrown into the furnace with the ore and serves as a flux to it. The slags are powdered washed and treated neatly as the ore at the mines and the beds of the furnaces are so filled with the metal that when 70 a furnace is pulled down, it answers their purpose to stamp the bricks and work them for the metal. As the manner of working the slags and bricks of the furnace is nearly similar to the method of treating the ore in the great works and as I had a much better opportunity of observing it here than I met with at any other place in the county I shall now proceed to describe it. The slag or bricks to be powdered are placed in a kind of trough whose bottom is a thick iron plate firmly supported, and the sides of this trough are made of thin iron plate perforated with holes, as some kinds of ore require to be reduced into finer powder than others. Thin iron plates are provided having holes of different dimensions, but the plates themselves being all of one size fit into the sides of the trough occasionally. Three pieces of timber headed with iron and called stampers work in each of these troughs. The stampers are raised 71 alternately by means of an axis with cogs upon it, turned round by an overshot water wheel and falling with great force into the trough reduce the slag, or bricks to powder. Through the trough runs a stream of water, which, when the materials are brought fine enough to pass through the holes in the iron plates, carries them with it into a pit sunk near the machine. From this pit the mixture of powdered bricks, slag and tin is taken and washed at the buddle. The buddle or frame is a piece of wood laid sloping, six or seven feet long, and three or four feet wide, some of the above mixt being laid on the upper end of this sloping wood, and a very gentle stream of water conveyed over it the whole being kept constantly stirring by a small rake the lighter parts are by degrees washed off, and the heavier or metallic ones remain behind, which by a particular contrivance are thrown into a receiver placed underneath from whence they are carried to the furnace to be melted. 72 Great nicety is required in buddling for the current of water is to be so adjusted that as much as possible of the useless matter be carried off and as much as possible of the metal preserved. The most part of this business is performed by women and boys and they seemed to me to have acquired by practice a remarkable dexterity in doing it. The most material difference between these operations at the smelting house and at the great works at the mines is that at the former the tin having been already fluxed, is in its metallic state or as the workmen call it white tin whereas at the mines it is in its mineral state and called by them black tin. There is another process which those tin ores that are impregnated with mundic must go through before they are brought to the smelter in order to be cleared of it, which is performed as follows. After the ore is reduced to powder it is carried to the burning house a kind of furnace of which there are several in the county and being there kept in a moderate heat (not sufficient to flux the tin) the arsenical and sulphurous 73 particles with which the mundic abounds are expelled and evaporated, and the tine left fit for the smelters. Here a curious specimen of tin ore and three small but beautiful crystals called Cornish diamonds were given me. Among the tin found in the currents that run off the hills and called stream tin particles of gold are frequently discovered which Mr Rosewarne told me are separated by rubbing on hare skin over the mixture the [illeg]. Particles of gold stick to the fur, which the tin in its mineral state will not do. Those particles of gold which are large enough to be distinguished are picked out with the fingers. I saw here two pieces of gold found in the stream tin, one weight 30s in value the other 27, and a specimen of steam tin with gold in it. Sometimes a quantity of iron is found mixed with the tin, and a method of separating it is much wished for. It may be proper here to mention the manner in which the smelters usually pay for the black tin they 74 bring from the mines which is thus. When the essay has been made and the value ascertained a note is given specifying how much black tin has been received, what proportion of white tin it is worth, and a promise of delivering a due quantity of white tin at the next coinage. As a large quantity of tin is frequently received at the smelting house the value rises so high that cash could not be found in the county for carrying on the business, and therefore this method appears to have been contrived, and these notes are as current everywhere in this county as Bank Notes. One of these notes which Mr Rosewarne obliged me with is here inserted, to explain their form. Sometimes when the poor sort of miners bring their tin they are paid for it in cash, and the tin then becomes wholly the property of the smelter. [has a note pasted in - PAPER CURRENCY] 75 Rosewarne’s son takes him to “a manufactory of crucibles carried on here by one Captain Stephens. They seem to be very good pots, and I am told are preferred by the assayers of copper ore to those imported from Hesse. They have not yet been tried for assaying tin, but Mr Rosewarne bespoke some in order for trial.” [innovation?] … 76 Monday 26th September: Rosewarne goes with him to Wheal Fortune “(about 7 miles from Truro) in which he has a large share. We set out about 9 o’clock. Our company consisted of Dr Stackhouse (brother to the author of the history of the Bible), his eldest son, Mr [Walter] Rosewarne [1709-72], Mr [William] Giddy [seemingly uncle of Davies Giddy/Gilbert] who married Mr Rosewarne’s daughter [Jennifer Giddy], and myself. We passed through a village called Chace Water where is a mine, and along a good turnpike road about 6 miles. We then turned on the right and went about half a mile to the north of the Great Road, and came to Haele [Wheal] Fortune which is situated among the largest copper works in the county. The name of the chief mines are Truan, Huele Virgin, North Downs, Huele Roll [Rok?] 77 and this Huele Fortune. I dressed myself in the habit of a miner, which consists of a flannel waistcoat, a kind of coarse linen jacket, a pair of trousers, a woollen cap, and an old thick hat. Mr Stackhouse and Mr Giddy each put on the same dress. Some of the most experienced miners are appointed to superintend the rest of the workmen, and called Captains. One of these named Stephen Carkeet we took with us as a guide. We descended by a ladder shaft, the captain going first, next him went Mr Stackhouse, I followed him, and Mr Giddy followed me, but before we had got down one ladder Mr Giddy returned back. The ladders which are placed almost perpendicular are each of them about five fathom, or thirty feet long, and the bottom of each ladder rests on some timbers placed across the shaft and covered with boards in manner of a scaffold, and large enough for two people to stand on. We each of us carried a candle, which we held between the thumb and forefinger of our left hand, in such manner that we could lay hold of the rounds of the ladder with both hands, and by that means support ourselves till our feet were firmly fixed. I found no 78 inconvenience whatever and having descended eight of these ladders, or 240 feet, we arrived at the drift of the mine where they are now working, but before we came to this depth we saw several places where the ores had been taken out so as to form large cavities like chambers. Most part of the shaft by which we descended appeared to be cut through a hard rock but in one place I observed a thick stratum of clay. From the bottom of the ladder shaft we went a considerable way in an horizontal direction, and then descended again, not by a ladder but by sliding down several places on our backs and now and then creeping on our hands and knees. In many parts of this passage we took notice of ore lying over our heads, but it was such as being poor was not thought worth the raising. At length having gone near half a mile we came to that part of the mine where the tinners (for so they call all miners here) were at work. The ore in this mine is not very rich yielding, from 12 to 20 pounds per ton. The load in many places is near two feet broad, in some parts narrower and is sometimes 79 divided by what is called a horse killas that is the rock is formed into a kind of wedge which divides the load. In many parts the reflection of the candles on the yellow parts of the ore made the appearance very beautiful. When I came to the end of the drift I commenced miner for taking a pick from one of the workmen I dug out several pieces of ore which I brought up with me. And now the trouble I had taken being amply compensated, I began to think of returning, and was advised both by the captain of the mine and my companion to go up in the kibball or bucket. Accordingly I got in or rather half in, for you are obliged to have one leg out of the bucket while the other is in and support yourslef by holding the rope by which the bucket is drawn up. The captain with a candle in his hand (I left mine behind me) got into the bucket with me. We now began to swing in the air but with great dexterity the captain prevented the bucket striking against the sides of the shaft. I confess I thought this by far the most disagreeable part of the whole excursion for I could not help imagining we were 80 in a kind of dangerous situation, suspended in a small bucket and neither of us very light by a rope three hundred feet in length. However in about ten minutes for so long were they drawing us up, we arrived at the top of the shaft. I adjourned to the room where I had dressed myself and the captain again descended to bring up my companion, who was not long before he came to me. We then took the custom of the stannary, that is a large glass of brandy each, and laying aside our masquerade habits reassumed our own characters. The time we remained in the mine was an hour and quarter. And here I cannot refrain taking notice of the obliging behaviour of this young gentleman Mr Stackhouse, who though heir to a fortune of £40,000 very civilly accompanied me through the whole mine, knowing, as he afterwards said that Mr Giddy’s courage would fail him and supposing I should be pleased to have a companion with me. After we were dressed I could not refuse his invitation to dine with him at his younger brother’s house called Pendarves about 8 miles off, whither the doctor and Mr 81 Rosewarne were gone before. We three therefore followed them and entered the turnpike road about a mile westward of the mine. We passed by several mines and through Redruth a market town of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter, and leaving Illogan and Camborn, on our right and Karn Bre on our left we came about two o’clock to Pendarves. This is a handsome house finely furnished with a good estate annexed to it, formerly belonging to the Percival family, but the late Mrs Grace Percival being the last of that family and having the whole in her disposal left it by will to the second son of Dr Stackhouse, and dying just as he came of age, he is now the possessor of it. We had an elegant dinner here and there being a good deal of company the afternoon passed very agreeably. In this house are several good pictures particularly a portrait of a woman by Rembrandt very fine, a large piece of dead game by Snyders, a Dutch fish market with figures by Fra. Halls. But the chief thing to be observed is the fosillary. A room built on purpose arched at top and whose walls are everywhere covered with the most beautiful specimens of ores, 82 spars, mundicks, crystals, etc collected at a great expence in this county. In short of all the artificial grottoes I have seen, no one is in any degree to be compared to it. There is no fault in it but that the beautiful specimens lying so close each other, the eye is confused in examining them. Yet were they disposed in cabinets they would make the most elegant collection of this kind anywhere to be met with in the kingdom.” Returns to Truro with Mr Giddy — “according to the custom of this country I was not allowed to sup at the inn so spent the remainder of the evening at Mr Giddy’s” Tuesday 27th Sept: Leaves Truro at 10am taking the turnpike northwards 83 passes over some downs, to Lambrigan, then to St Agnes/Ann’s a small market town among many tin mines. Here Mr J N was supposed to meet him, but he had already left. Roads very stony and bad. From the top of the hill “is an extensive prospect of the Bristol Channel or as it is called in this country the North Sea. Near this hill are several works belonging to the mines, and upon it were many goats skipping about.” Descends through a small village to Illogan. Stays the afternoon with Mr Newcombe’s uncle, the minister of the parish [Robert Newcombe, rector of Camborne and Illogan]. Wednesday 28th September — goes with J N to Redruth. 84 “I took that opportunity of seeing the fire engine belonging to a mine in this neighbourhood called Pednandrea, or sometimes Suit and Cloak. This fire engine is not a very large one, the house cylinder being no more than 47 inches diameter whereas there is in the county one of 70 inches diameter. I examined this engine as carefully as possible, but could find little or no difference in the construction between this and that which raises the water on the road to Chelsea, except that to this is added a counterbalance bob which is a piece of timber about 24 feet long, moving on an axis; to one extremity of this bob is fixed a chain whose other end is fastened to the piston which works in the pumps, and the other extremity of the counter balance bob is loaded with a weight. The great length, and consequently weight of the piston requires this piece of machinery in order to assist the engine in its working; and wonderful it is to see with what seeming ease these vast bodies of timber and iron move. I had observed a contrivance of this sort at Wheal Fortune 85 the mine I went down, but my time did not then allow me to examine it thoroughly. When this engine is in full work it makes 16 strokes in a minute and draws 40 gallons of water each stroke. I collected here some specimens of tin and copper both which metals are found in this mine” … Thursday 29th September Spends the morning writing. At noon to Mr Angoves, whose hose is called Trevenson, about 2 miles SW of Illogan. Dined there and “in the afternoon went to a copper mine called the New Pool, or Penhellock, being not the same yet not far distant from the old Pool a mine by which Mr Basset of Tehiddy got a great fortune. At this mine they have not yet erected a fire engine, but here is a water wheel the largest in the county whose diameter 86 is 48 feet. This wheel which was carried down in pieces and put together in the mine, is placed in a large cavity cut on purpose for it in the rock. The lower part of its periphery being 16 fathom under the surface. The use of this wheel is to work two pumps in order to discharge the water of the mine which it does in great quantity yet not near so effectually as the fire engine, for which reason they talk now of erecting one. That I might see this curious subterraneous wheel I again assumed the habit of a miner, and descended by four ladders to about 17 fathom deep and came to the adit of the mine close over which the great wheel works. The noise of the water rolling over the great wheel, and of the pumps that draw the water from the bottom of the mine was really tremendous, however I pulled off my shoes and stockings and followed my guide into the adit, half leg deep in water, and here to see a wheel 144 feet in circumference, whose buckets are 4 feet long 87 moving with amazing velocity was such a sight as I could have formed no idea of, but which afforded me much pleasure. The water running constantly over the sides of this wheel keeps it of a smooth and polished surface and there being many nails near the edge of it which appear from the swiftness of its motion like a black line, the whole looks as if made of box wood inlaid with ebony. As Mr N waited for me, I went no deeper into this mine, but ascended again by the same ladders I had gone down. I collected here a few specimens of ore. And now I think it proper to take notice that this is the mine into which his Grace the Duke of Beaufort lately went whose attention to the curious productions of nature can never be too much commended, and who left behind him noble proofs of his munificence which are gratefully remembered by the tinners. [INDUSTRIAL TOURISM] We returned to Mr Angoves and from thence to Mr Newcombe’s at Illogan whose house was our home in this country to supper. 88 Friday 30 September: visits a supposed druidical sacrificial site on the top of Karnbre hill - “I am not antiquary enough to determine” 89 “From this hill is a very extensive prospect commanding a view of the Bristol Channel to the north and of the British Channel to the south” [NB the name of the English Channel!] 90 Hill “belongs to the family of Basset” Returns to Redruth in the afternoon: “it was market day and a great number of people were assembled but I saw nothing extraordinary in the market. No fish except a few pollocks, some whiting pollock and hake, none of which would have sold in London.” [so obsessed with fish!] “This town of Redruth is small and meanly built but being situated in the midst of the mining part of the county is very populous. The mine called Pednandrea is at the east entrance of the town. I went up again to it in hopes of procuring some good specimens of mundic but could get none. However I brought away with me some tin and a diamond. In this town lives one Mr Monday who dined at Pendarves when I was there. He very obligingly gave me a general invitation to his house and being concerned in several mines informed me of many things I should otherwise have 91 been unacquainted with. We returned to Illogan about eight this evening” [he is writing each day it seems! - some other evidence of this too earlier, when he says he is too tired to write in the evening] Saturday 1st October 1763: Sets out at 9am for Camborne, a village about 3 miles from Illogan, “of which Mr Newcombe is also the minister [Robert Newcombe, minister of Camborne and Illogan - his nephews were Robert Lydston Newcombe, Francis Stonard Newcombe, and John Newcombe, sons of his brother John Newcombe. More’s earlier Mr Newcombe appears to be the nephew Robert, and the other nephews are J N and F N. NB that the elder John Newcombe was an apothecary in Exeter]” “We called on his curate Mr Trevannion but he being from home we breakfasted with Mr Vivian, whose son went with us to a mine in this neighbourhood called Huele Kitty [Wheal Kitty]. This was formerly a rich work but the bottoms of the mine being filled with water, and having no fire engine for draining it, it has not of late been much worked. But they are now erecting a fire engine upon it which is to be employed not only for raising the water in the manner fine engines usually are but the fire is also intended to roast, and smelt the ore. This is entirely new in practice although the inventor Mr [Sampson] Swaine (who very civilly waited upon me and showed me the whole contrivance) told me he discovered the method of doing it full twenty years ago. He seems himself perfectly well assured of success, and I heartily wish he may see his expectations completed. {INV: Sampson Swaine of Camborne, “[who in 1762 developed a moorstone boiler combining production of steam with the reduction of low-grade copper ore to a partial smelt]( https://whc.unesco.org/uploads/nominations/1215.pdf)”} 92 They are at work in some parts of this mine but the ore they raise is not rich. However no judgement can be formed from this, as it is probable when they can work deeper the mine will turn to better account. I brought some specimens of this ore away. Here I expected to meet Mr Western but find he has taken an house near Marazion. Mr Vivian was so obliging as to present me with a specimen of uncommon mundic found in the parish of St Ann. The cylinder of the fire engine now erecting at Wheal Kitty weighs 86 cwt 0 quarters 12lbs is 10 feet long and 56 inches diameter, was cast at Coalbrookdale. We returned to Illogan to dinner. It began to rain this day about 12 o’clock which was the first rain we had in the county of Cornwall, though we had been in it ten days. The whole afternoon continued so rainy that it was impossible to visit anything out of doors” 93 Sunday 2 Oct: Accompanies Revd Newcombe to his church, “which is very neat and handsome. A woman who died in childbed was buried here this morning, and the corpse according to the custom of this country was carried to the grave by six women and the service appointed on the occasion was read with an elegance and precision seldom to be met with. In the church not only the singing psalms (as they are called) but also the Te Deum is performed by a number of select persons, and as some females join in the performance the whole has an air of harmony unknown in the churches in London. Of the sermon I shall only say that the language was equal, and the delivery superior to most I have heard.” [CORNISH CUSTOMS] Mr Angove dined with us this day, and in the afternoon we again attended the worthy divine to his church. After service I walked to Portreath a small village situated on the north sea about two miles from Illogan; here a mole is building, and it is proposed to form an harbour for receiving vessels which are to bring coals from Wales for the use of the fire engines, a work which will undoubtedly be 94 of great utility to this neighbourhood, as the coals now used for the fire engines are all landed at Hail [Hayle] and brought from thence 8 or 10 miles on horses and mules. This shore is very rocky and the wind blowing south west and very brisk. I had a view of the sea in such commotion, as I never had an opportunity of observing before. After taking a long view of it and the cliffs round the harbour which are really very awful I returned to Illogan to supper. Monday 3 Oct: Left Illogan in the morning, called on Mr Angove but he was not at home, so “pursued our journey to Guinear [Goonvrea] a village about six miles from Illogan. Near this village is a large copper mine said to be the deepest in the county, and called the Manor, or Drannock. In this Mr Angove has a large share, and had told some of the captains that I should be at it as [at?] this day, in order to go to the bottoms. We stopped at a small public house, where our entertainment was bad enough, but I sent for the 95 captain, and Mr N proceeding on his way to Penzance I dressed myself in the mining habit and descended with the captain. This mine is so deep that it has been found necessary to erect two fire engines upon it, one of which is considerably smaller than the other. By the ladders in the shaft belonging to the smallest of these engines we went down about 40 fathom, and then turning westward, descended by several ladders and through many passages 76 fathom more so that at last I found myself 106 fathom (636 feet) under the surface of the earth, and at least 50 fathom below the level of the sea. Yet here I found no inconvenience, except sometimes crawling on my hands and knees and sometimes wading half leg deep in a strong current of water. Having walked at this depth about 200 yards in length, I began to think of returning but not before I had dug some specimens of the ore which I brought up with me, and here it may be proper to observe of how great utility the currents of water, in these mines are to the workmen, 96 for by keeping all the parts clean they conduce much to their health, and at the same time the motion of the water causes a constant current of fresh air to pass through, and ventilate the whole mine, in such manner that the breath is no more affected at the deepest bottoms than on the surface of the earth, and indeed in some parts of this deep mine the current of air was so strong, that it was with difficulty I preserved the lights I carried in my hands from being blown out. I performed my journey back again very well about 30 fathom up, when I confess I found myself very much tired. But one of the miners being near me, I prevailed on him to go up to the counting house and fetch me some brandy, which he did; and although he had more than 70 fathom to go up, yet I had not advanced more than 15 fathom, when he met me again with the brandy in his pocket. The captain and myself each took two draughts of it, and my spirits revived so much that I mounted the rest of the way like a lapwing. 97 I entered the mine about 11 o’clock and it was past 3 before I came out of it, so that my stay in it exceeded four hours. As soon as I had dressed myself in my own habit again, I took a view of the large fire engine belonging to the mine, whose house cylinder is 70 inches diameter. This engine is employed to draw the water from the bottom of the mine, and having raised it about 40 fathom, the smaller engine brings it up to the adit which is about 36 fathom below the surface of the earth. When I had examined all the works, I invited the three captains of the mine to dine with me at a small public house in the village where the best that could be procured was provided for them. We passed the afternoon very sociably together and about 7 o’clock an honest countryman and his wife setting out for Penzance, I followed them as my guides, and arrived very safe about 9 o’clock. The evening was so dark that it was impossible to make any remarks on what I passed, but when I came to Hayle Sands, where there is a ford over an arm of the sea the tide was so risen that we rode a considerable way 98 belly deep in water, and through so violent a storm of hail and wind, that it was with great difficulty our horses made head against. At Penzance I again overtook Mr N and we lay this evening at this town. Tuesday 4 Oct: This morning Mr Western who had heard I was in Penzance came to me and offered to go with me to the Reverend Mr Pennecks at Gulval (who is his landlord). We called upon him and I gave him a letter I had brought from his brother in London and found him confined to his bed with the gout. We next proceeded to the Reverend Mr Borlase’s [William Borlase, FRS, 1696-1772 - mineralogist, antiquarian, anti-Methodist, rector of Ludgvan] at Ludgvan, but he was not at home. Returning therefore to Penzance we took a walk to see the town, which is very pleasantly situated on the west side of Mounts Bay, and being built on the diclivity of an hill, almost every house in it commands a prospect of the bay. The quay is a very handsome one, and several vessels were lying at it. In the town I met the Reverend Mr Penneck of Paul, delivered him a letter from his brother in London and promised to drive with him tomorrow. 99 This obliging gentleman favoured me with a visit at Penzance this afternoon, and in the evening Mr Western left us, after having given us many invitations to his house at Figambo [?] which however our time never allowed us to accept of. Wed 5 Oct: Goes with Mr Greenfall of Penzance to Land’s End, leaving at 9am and passing Castle Horneck belonging to Rev Dr Borlase. Passed “along a pretty good road, over some barren downs”. Briefly drop in thanks to rain in the small village of Mayon, not far from Sennen, “at the house of Mr Dionysius Williams [c.1733-75, Fellow of the Royal Society in 1766], who is a surveyor of lands and well acquainted with many parts of mechanicks. He is in great want of a draught or description of the machine for turning ovals, which I promised to endeavour to procure for him.” “From hence we soon came to Sennen, the last town towards the west in Cornwall, from whence several boys followed us to hold our horses while we walked down to the cliffs” etc etc about Land’s End 100 “what appeared most entertaining to us was the manner in which the gannet, or Solan Goose, as it is called in north, seizes its prey. The gannet is a bird nearly the size of a common goose, its food at least on these coasts is pilchards, and the shoals of these fish are constantly followed by these birds. 101 When the gannet intends to seize on its prey, it rises very high in the air, and suddenly darts down on the fish, with a force and velocity inconceivable to those who have not seen it. We saw three of them fall in this manner into the water and though they could not be so little as half a mile from us, yet we could perceive the spray of the sea thrown up by them just as it would have been by a cannon ball shot into it. So eager are they after their prey, that they frequently fall into the boats that are bringing the pilchards home from the nets, by which they are generally killed and I was told they are often caught by placing a pilchard on a board, and letting it float in the sea. The bird will attack the fish with such fury as to drive its bill through the wood and be by that means entangled and taken.” [catching gannets!] etc etc visits Logan Rock 103 Relates local belief that Treryn Dinas, or Castle, is “the last place the Giants inhabited in England and that when they departed from hence they went into the sea.” “The moving rock is granite or moor stone the same as are all the rocks which lie dispersed about this country. I brought a small specimen of it away with me. Great quantities of samphire grow on the cliffs hereabout.” 104 Passes through St Buryan, a market town, then to Paul [Paul is a small village south of Penzance]. Notes that “the country everywhere in our journey this morning was exceeding rocky, barren and thinly inhabited, except by ravens and magpies, of which we saw great numbers.” .. “We had many hard showers this day so that when I came to Paul I was very wet. But Mr Penneck and his lady excused my trim and though I had made them wait till their dinner was almost spoiled. Yet they treated one with so much affability and good humour that I know not when I spent an afternoon more to my satisfaction. 105 Near this place is Mousehole famous for its pilchard fishery, and which (as appears by the register of the parish of Paul shown me by Mr Penneck) was burnt with the church and town of Paul by the Spaniards on the 23rd of July 1595. Several persons of this parish were killed by the Spaniards, and the register begins with an account of their burials, and is a great curiosity of its kind. In the evening Mr George Borlase of Penzance called upon me and escorted me safe back to Penzance where he supped with us. Mr N left me about half a mile from Paul and had come to Penzance to dinner. Thursday 6 Oct: Nr N proceeded this morning on his journey to Helston, and I having received an invitation from the Reverend Mr Borlase of Ludgvan (a village about four miles from Penzance) to breakfast with him, went thither about 9 o’clock. He received me with the highest civility and politeness and showed me his curious collection of minerals chiefly of this county, and presented me with some fine specimens of tin, copper, and mundic. His garden is situated in such manner as to command a beautiful view of the bay and 106 St Michael’s Mount, and is furnished with some rare plants, particularly the small leaved double blossomed myrtle. It must be observed that although several sorts of myrtle thrive well in this country yet this species is rare. He very obligingly gave me a fine sprig of it, but some ladies who I shall say more of hereafter seeming desirous of it I could not possibly refuse it them. [ladies man!] Mr Borlase has a Cornish chough [kind of bird], tame, but he was basking in the sun at the top of the house and we could not get him down. However I saw him plain enough to distinguish, that he was of a more elegant form than any other of the crow kind. His feathers of a jet black and his bill and legs of a most beautiful vermillion colour. He has been kept here fifteen years. Mr Borlase who is a virtuoso also has made a grotto small enough to be placed in a camera obscura, which when viewed by that instrument appears large, and being formed of the most beautiful specimens of ores, spars, etc that could be procured, the appearance is extremely brilliant and entertaining. I left this agreeable family and house about noon” 107 visits St Michael’s Mount, getting his horse taken care of, and enquiring for a guide at the pub, where he is told “there were three ladies waiting to see the castle. As Soon as I entered the room where they were it occurred to me that I had seen one of them, but as I was not certain where I had met here I deferred mentioning it, till she herself began to speak of the Museum, and as she found I was of London, asked me if I was acquainted with any of the gentlemen belonging to that house [British Museum??? There was a Rev. Samuel Harper/Harpur who was under-librarian at the BM from 1765 - More had also been one of the select guests of James Ferguson to see the transit of Venus with James Ferguson. Did More work at the BM??]. I had no sooner answered in the affirmative but she mentioned 108 Mr Harper [or Harpur] as one of her particular acquaintance. From that minute we were very sociable and I waited upon them up the Mount and through the castle.” Has dinner with them at Marazion. “The lady who seemed most intimate with Mr Harpur was names Lawes, the two others Sullivan and Newman. The reason of their being at Marazion was this. They had sailed on board a ship from Bristol for Cork but a contrary wind springing up when they were in sight of their port, they were driven out to sea, and a violent storm arriving were tossed about four days expecting every minute to be lost. At length the captain resolved 109 to make the first land he could, and having been in great danger at the Scilly Islands came at last into Mount’s Bay. The ladies as may be well supposed were much fatigued and frightened, but Mrs Laws appeared so much rejoiced at being once again on dry land that she seemed almost to have forgot the dangers she had passed through.” etc etc about the Mount Mount Bay: “much celebrated for the fishery of pilchards, a fish greatly resembling the herring but a little thicker on the back and not quite so long. It would have afforded me high satisfaction to have been an eye witness of their manner of fishing, but the badness of the weather prevented the fish appearing while 110 I was there. I say appearing, because persons who are acquainted with the business go upon the tops of the hills which surround the bay and by certain signals inform the fishers whereabout the pilchards are and how they must spread their nets to take them [telegraphy!]; the nets they first shoot out are so large and the quantity of fish so great, that they are only used to encircle the shoal, and smaller nets are made us of to take the fish out of the water. And wonderful as it may seem, I have been credibly informed that there has been taken in the nets belonging to Penzance only, in one night, as many fish as filled 9,000 hogsheads, each hogshead containing at least 3,500 fish, and that these hogsheads were all sold at 27s each. I saw at the Mount the cellars where the fish are cured. They are laid in rows and covered with bay salt (all which salt is purchased abroad) till they are thoroughly penetrated with it, and then being well cleansed are packed in casks and pressed down as tight as possible. This pressing forces out 111 of the fish a great quantity of oil which is preserved for common uses. The chief consumption of them is in Spain, Portugal, and Italy. I tasted one but could not swallow the second mouthful.” Left Marazion at 4pm and met a Mr Grey of Penryn who was going home, keeping with him until arriving at 6pm at Helston. “There are some tin works near this town belonging to Lord Godolphin but I had not an opportunity of seeing them. The town of Helston is pretty well built but I saw nothing in it worth remarking.” Friday 7 October: Left Helston at 7am “and had not travelled many miles before we perceived a very remarkable difference between this part of the county and that we had of late been used to, for as the north side of Cornwall is most part of it open fields and moors with no wood growing on them, we found on this south side the country much enclosed and the land planted 112 with agreeable woods. [WOOD SUPPLY?]] A turnpike road is making from Helston to Falmouth, some parts of which are finished in an excellent manner, but some of the road remains in its old state and there it is stony and bad enough.” 9am get to Falmouth: “situated at the head of a fine harbour has in it a very handsome church, the mayor’s seat, the pulpit and pews, are all very neat and the whole though small makes the best appearance of any country church I have seen. Adjoining to the churchyard is an handsome row of houses called New Street which commands a view of the harbour. Near this street is a beautiful grove of elm trees, about a quarter of a mile in length now converted into a rope walk, and terminated by a rising hill.” … Notes Pendennis Castle 113 “while I was on the ramparts the King George packet passed by from Lisbon” Falmouth for supper had good oysters and bad pilchards Saturday 8 Oct: Mr Hinkston of St Ann’s calls on him for breakfast and takes him through Falmouth “which is in general but meanly built yet very populous. The market was well supplied with meat and vegetables but no fish. Belonging to the town is a handsome quay 114 near which lay many small vessels, and several Men of War were at anchor in the harbour.” Leaves Falmouth at 10am, calls at Penryn on Mr N. Good market at Penryn, despite it being the same market day as Falmouth, and had a leg of excellent roast pork for dinner. “There is a manufactory of coarse woollen cloth in this town.” Leave Penryn at 5pm, crossing to Redruth — “they are now making a turnpike road between these towns, but the greater part of the road being unfinished is exceeding stony and bad. In our way we passed through several villages and by many mines.” Gets to Illogan by 7pm. 115 Sunday 9 Oct: Attend Rev Newcombe at his church again, where he gave “a most excellent sermon on the application of philosophical researches to religion” Monday 10 Oct: Leaves at 10am for Trevetho, the seat of Humfrey Mackworth Praed Esq about 10 miles away. Passes Tehiddy, “a very handsome house belonging to Mr Bassett, who is making a large park near it, through which we went, and came to the sea shore where several men were lying on the ground waiting as they say in this country for what the providence of God sends them that is for any part of a wreck that is driven on shore. The crags here are near 50 fathom high above the water” Spots “a seal an animal not uncommon in these parts devouring a large fish” 116 Notes there was a wreck after they left westwards, “laden with soap, oil, saffron, liqueurs, hats, etc from Marseilles. The common people soon plundered her and tore her to pieces, but as it usually happens on those occasions, the most valuable part of the cargo was lost - as an instance, one fellow had found a sack of saffron, so large that he could not carry it. He cut it open and not knowing what it was threw it into the sea. Several casks of brandy were driven on shore this day, supposed to have been part of a ship’s cargo that had foundered at sea; I forgot to mention that a sloop laden with coal and culm was lost in Mount’s Bay near Marazion on Monday the third of this month, on which day was a violent storm.” Goes along the beach, comes to Hell’s Mouth 117 Passes through Gwithian, Philae, and then Hayle Sands. Then to Lanant, and finally to the park to Trevetho. “The owner of this sea H M Praed Esq is Member of Parliament for St Ives. I had seen him at Pendarves the 118 day I dined there, and he then complacently invited me to dine with him some day before I left the country. Part of the house is new fronting with moor stone, of which there is fine quarry in the park, and when finished will certainly make a beautiful appearance. I had much discourse with him about mining and Mr Western’s scheme, and having been elegantly entertained left” about 4:30pm. Gets back to Illogan at 8pm - “a country fellow for a mug of ale showed us the way to Illogan” Tues 11 Oct: 119 Spends the morning with the reverend, then goes for a walk. “As there is a strong current of water between the hills near Portreath I saw several people working at the streams, collecting what is called Stream Tin. I brought home with me a little of the sand from which it is collected.” They stay up until midnight at supper. Wed 12 Oct: 8am goes via Redruth to Truro. There sees Dr Russell, 120 Chats with him for an hour, and calls on Mr Rosewarne “who I had appointed to eat a steak with on my return to this town dressed on a block of tin. To explain what I mean it must be understood that the melted tin as it runs from the furnace is received into a cavity contrived for that purpose and when a sufficient quantity of metal is run off it is taken up in ladles and poured into moulds cut in stone, each of which moulds contains near 3cwt of tin. The upper surface of this mass being exposed to the air soon sets, or grows solid, but the inner parts still remain very hot, so that a steak laid upon it is presently dressed and indeed I have never tasted meat cooked in any degree equal to it.” JN arrives in time to drink tea with him at Dr Russell’s. 121 “There was held at this town a court for hearing all trials relating to the mines, and called the Stannary Court. Of this the Reverend Dr Borlase as vice warden of the Stannaries is judge.” Thurs 13 Oct: Breakfasted at Truro “and having packed up all the ores etc that I had collected in my journey, I committed them to the care of Mr Giddy to be sent to London. Here I saw the manner of coining the tin which is thus. The blocks of tin being brought into the Court House, are each of them weighed and struck four times with an hammer, on whose face is cut a kind of seal by which four impressions are made on the block. The Ducy seal (which is the same as the impressions above mentioned) is argent, a lion rampart gul crowned or, within a border sable garnished by bezants. This from the striking with the hammer in the manner coins were formerly, is properly called the coining. A small piece of metal is then taken from the corner of each block, and a person attends who examines if the metal is good enough for sale. If it is found good it 123 [sic, should be 122] is allowed to be sold. If not the owner is fined in proportion to the badness of the metal. At every smelting house are provided thin plates of iron with any characters on them that the smelter chooses; while the tin is yet fluid in the stone moulds, one or more of these thin iron plates are placed upon it and by that means a sharp impression is made in the metal by which each smelter knows his own tin.” Leaves Truro at 11am, passes through Probus “a small town” coming to Grampound “an handsome market town”. Country “well cultivated and a pleasant, and a great number of gentlemen’s seats in it”. At Gramound “we left the turnpike road and turning a little on the right and then again on the left came by some very indifferent lanes to Mavagizzy [Mevagissey] a small fishing town on the sea side (and a very dirty and disagreeable place). Our chief intention 124 in coming hither was to eat some fine fish for which it seems this place is famous but here also our expectations were frustrated, for we could procure no fish except a few whitings and those far from good.” Keeps going, leaving Pentewan on the right “we took a low road between the hills, which soon brought us to a watery lane, or rather a river, through which we travelled about two miles, our horses knee deep at every step. But the bottom is a good sand and there is no danger in passing it. Between these hills and near this river are the most famous places in the county for collecting stream tin, and we everywhere observed work for that purpose carrying on.” Then they arrived at St Austell “a pretty large market town”, near which “are some blowing houses for smelting tin, almost the only ones remaining in the county for I have observed already that at Mr Rosewarne’s all the tin is smelted in reverberatory furnaces with Welsh coal [NEW REVERBERATORY FURNACES], but here the smelting is performed in furnaces about 8 feet high, filled with ore and 125 wood-charcoal. The fire is actuated by two pair of bellows, which are moved by a waterwheel, and as one pair rises while the other falls there is a constant stream of air driven into the furnace. Opposite the hole into which the nose of the bellows is inserted is an opening through which the melted metal runs into a kind of stone trough, wherein lies some burning charcoal to keep the metal from cooling. It requires about three hours to run down a block of tin, but the metal made in this manner is finer and fetches a better price than that smelted with Welsh coal, and is, what is most properly called Grain Tin; formerly all the tin ore of the county was worked in this manner, for it is not much more than 60 years since the introduction of the reverberatory furnace [c.1700?]. The ore chiefly smelted at these works is collected in streams, and such ore (I was told) is found in general to make the best tin.” [HIGHER QUALITY SPECIALISED TIN?] “A very obliging gentleman, Mr Crap apothecary in this town supped with us this evening. He 126 very complacently presented me with some specimens of tin ore, and a piece of white tin found in a stream in this neighbourhood and believed to be very ancient.” Friday 14 Oct: Went to see two blocks of white tin found in a stream belonging to Mr Crapp “who keeps an inn in this town and is uncle to the gentleman abovementioned. These are the two blocks of tin mentioned by Mr Borlase in his Nat. Hist. of Cornwall, page 163. They are really very curious, undoubtedly very ancient” etc etc Leave St Austell at 11am “and came by a tolerable road some part turnpike to Lostwithiel a small market town, and borough. On the road hither we passed many small rivulets, and several gentlemen’s seats. And about three miles from the town the hills began again to be covered with large pieces of 127 sparry rock, such as I had observed in the western parts of the county, and which are not found on the south side.” Arrives in Lostwithiel about 2pm - nothing remarkable there. Then via some bad roads and over large moors to Bodmin “a large town but meanly built. Here the summer assizes for the county are held. The town hall is large but in very indifferent repair.” Sat 15 Oct: Set out early for Camelford, “and having passed some downs, on one of which is a course for horse racing, we came to a small village called Helland “where is a bridge over the river Camel. From this village we ascended a very steep hill near which are several woods, from whence the blowing houses in the neighbourhood of St Austell are supplied 128 with charcoal.” [CORNISH WOOD SUPPLY] After the summit again entered the downs, and in about two hours arrived at Camelford. Very short stay as they carried on via the London road turnpike, turning off on the right down narrow lanes for about a mile and through some downs and more narrow bad lanes to Alternun “a little place, meanly inhabited, yet pleasantly situated having a beautiful stream of water running through it”; stopped for dinner at the pub, and then set off for Horsebridge through more narrow lanes. 129 The soil was “a deep stiff clay”, which would have made travel disagreeable “had not the country (by being much enclosed and the hedges lined with trees very different from what we had been used to) afforded us an agreeable variety.” Arrived at Horsebridge about 7pm. Horsebridge [barely exists today as a village - it’s in Tavistock region] “is a small village, part on the western and part on the eastern side of the River Tamar over which there is an handsome stone bridge” Notes that the river divides the counties of Cornwall and Devon, so the village straddles the counties. Crossed the village and put up at the White Hart - “good accommodations and very civil entertainment” Sunday 16 Oct: Had lunch at the pub as it was so nice, after a morning walk, then left for Tavistock. Passed a quarry “where slate is dug, great quantities of which are sent to London. The quarry is about 30 fathom deep, and that is as low as they can work on account of the water in the bottoms, though the bed of slate seems to extend much deeper.” [NO PUMPS?? - is this Mill Hill slate quarry?] Tavistock by 4pm - “a large handsome town with many good houses in it … Through all the principal streets are currents of water (some very rapid) which joins the river called Tavy … Over this river is a stone bridge 131 leading to the Plymouth Road. The greater part of this town belongs to the Duke of Bedford and gives title of Marquess to that family. The river Tavy joins the Tamar not far from Saltash and both these streams are said to abound with salmon.” Monday 17 Oct: Set out for Plymouth Dock, to meet F. Newcombe. Road “is very good, and except about three miles over the downs the country is well cultivated and pleasant. Plymouth dock which lies about two miles west of Plymouth town is large and very populous. The King’s yard is not so large as that at Portsmouth. There is a new dry dock lately built here for the shipping, which is a most curious piece of workmanship and will conveniently hold the largest vessel in the Navy.” J N joined them at noon. Indifferent provisions and accommodations in the evening there. [INSERT: signals for the navy from Maker Church at Plymouth] 132 Tues 18 Oct: Visited the market: “a good deal of provisions, but I think far from cheap for a large pair of soles I was asked 3s.” Goes for a walk from Mutton Cove to Mount Edgecome, where Lord Edgecombe has a seat surrounded with woods and with a great view. “In the park are kept a great number of uncommon sheep, most of them having four horns. They are of a black colour and their wool very thick. I was told they were brought from Hungary.” Then comes to a church with a high tower - 77 steps — called Maker Tower. “As this tower may be plainly seen from Plymouth Dock, a person is kept here whose business is to make signals whenever he sees a ship or ships coming in. For the form of these signals see the plate. 133 I went to the top of this tower, and surely a more beautiful prospect is nowhere to be seen than from it, as it commands the town of Plymouth, the hospital, and dockyard, with the harbour and ships lying in it. The country towards the north is bounded by hills at a great distance having many towns and villages scattered about it and towards the south is an unconfined view of the sea.” etc on how beautiful “I went into the garden belonging to the house. Here is a very good pinery, and many orange trees, and lemon trees, several of which grow in the open air, being nailed to the walls and covered in frosty weather by glass frames. These bear very large fruit and supply the family with all the oranges and lemons they have occasion for. Some of these trees are by much the largest I ever saw. But what most attracted my attention was the great variety of vistas cut through the woods and which are all of 134 them terminated by agreeable objects. Some are bounded by the sea, and the continual passing of vessels to and from the harbour furnishes a most elegant moving picture. Many of the vistas direct the eye to towers or churches at a great distance, and in one part of the garden is a spot from where there are seven views of towers, one of which was built by the late Lord to serve as a distant object. Some parts of the garden are planted with great variety of pines and firs, which seem to thrive here very well and in particular in one place I took notice of some very large cypresses, which for a circular grove in whose centre stands a vase an emblem of mortality well adapted to the situation. There are here also many cork trees which seem healthy and flourishing. … While I was here I met Mr Coleman a relation of Lord Edgecombe who with great civility walked round the gardens with 135 me, and showed me all the parts of them that are most curious. The steward told me the house was so dirty it was not fit to be seen, but I find that is his constant excuse when he thinks proper not to have it shown, so I did not see the inside of it.” etc etc about how the house looks from the outside. Returns to Plymouth Dock, and walked over the Gun Dock “where great quantities of cannon, etc are laid up”, and in the evening went to Plymouth town, passing the unfinished building of the hospital. 136 Wed Oct 19: visits the fort “The ramparts here are very strong especially towards the sea, and from them may be seen the Eddystone Lighthouse fifteen miles distant, the whole harbour of Plymouth, and the woods on Mount Edgecombe, Mount Batten, St Nicholas Island, and the country around about. Near the fort is a plain called the Hoe on which the Western Regiment of Devonshire Militia were exercising. We went thither. They performed their exercise very well and to the satisfaction of everyone present. On our return to the town Mr Tolcher the Younger showed us his collection of natural curiosities, which though not large, has in it some very rare specimens of corals, shells, etc and the comb of a particular kind of bee, which seems to be very small. The comb is constructed in a very curious and singular manner. We dined this day with Mr Kingdom” … “Here are some good houses belonging to the officers of the garrison. The rest of the town is but meanly built.” 137 Stayed at the King’s Arms, where Mr Tolcher and his son were with them. Thurs Oct 20: Breakfast with Mr Tolcher “who formerly held a place under the government here. He has a property in some mines, and showed me many specimens of ores, etc.” Set out for Modbury after dinner, passing Saltern [Saltram, surely] “a seat belonging to Mr Parker, situated near a pleasant river and surrounded with large woods.” And through Plympton St Mary “a small market town”, then by Kittely [?] belonging to Mr Bastard [Bustard?]. “all this part of the country seemed very pleasant, and in the event the moorstone very bright” Modbury by 8pm: “a small market town but we found nothing in it worth remarking” Fri Oct 21: Left Modbury at 8am for Kingsbridge. 138 Pleasant lanes to Auton [Aveton] Gifford “a village chiefly famous for its parsonage, which is so good an one that the late rector was called bishop of Aveton Gifford. The parsonage house is very handsome and has some fine gardens belonging to it. At the end of the village we entered a meadow, through which runs a stream [River Avon] of water, on whose banks great quantities of sand were collecting for manuring the land.” [AGR WEALTH FROM SAND??] “We passed this stream by a bridge, and travelled over several hills to Chrestow [Churchstow], near this we joined the turnpike road which soon brought us to Kingsbridge. In this town, in the garden of Mr George Prideaux I was shown an orange tree much spoken of in this country, on account of its size, but it is not near large as some I had seen at Mount Edgecombe.” After breakfast he and FN proceeded on the road to Dartmouth leaving JN. “Indifferent” road, passed a large house called Buckland Filley belonging to Counsellor Spooner 139 Arrived at Dartmouth at about 2pm. Entered by a steep hill paved with smooth pebbles, making it hard to keep the horses on their feet. Dartmouth: “This town is situated on the side of a very fine bay, adjoining to which is a large quay. In this bay is a small island now converted into a quay and called the New Quay. It is joined to the mainland by a bridge of which appears 1675 the date of the year when it was built. On it are planted many lime trees, and from it is a view of the town, the bay and high hills around it and the fort at the entrance of the harbour. It was market day and the town seemed plentifully supplied with all sorts of provisions. I observed that the windows of the houses project a good deal and to support them they use grotesque figures of men and women carved in wood, which has an odd effect. We crossed a ferry to Kingsware [Kingswear] on the opposite side of the bay and having ascended the hills passed by Netherway 140 the seat of Henry Fownes Lutterel Esq, and came to Brixham. This is the town from whence great part of the fish sent to London by land carriage comes. It is but a small place and in general meanly built, but probably by that scheme will soon be much enriched. [FISH LAND CARRIAGE SCHEME] Here is a good quay for the boats to lie at, and from it is a view of Torbay. While I was there three boats arrived with fish. We travelled again by moonlight this evening, the roads very bad and arrived about 8 o’Clock at Totnes where Mr J N again met us.” Sat Oct 22: Totnes: “is an handsome town seated on the side of an hill, having the River Dart running in the bottom. Over this river is a long bridge and by the side of it a walk shaded with elm trees and leading to a bowling green. The meadows hereabout are very beautiful being surrounded with high hills, covered with woods. Fish here was very cheap but no great variety.” Leaves at 11am 141 Crosses another bridge over the Dart, at 1pm coming to Ashburton: “a market town. The buildings in general but indifferent, but the town is mostly celebrated for the best inns in Devonshire. Here is a school where boys are taught Latin, etc. The room is large and commodious and has a tower and spire like a church, and is used as a town hall at the election of members of Parliament. … There is a peculiar kind of liquor drank in this town, called Ashburton Pop. It is made of malt dried by a wood fire, and the beer has a remarkably smoky taste, in my opinion very disagreeable but such is the force of custom, that the people here are very fond of it. They keep it in stoneware bottles, and drink it in a state of strong fermentation, and I suppose its name pop is derived from the noise that attends the drawing of the cork.” 142 Leaves about 4pm, through “ some pleasant lanes and woods”, arriving by 8pm at Newton Bushell [Newton Abbot?] “a market town where the market house is very handsome, but the dwelling houses indifferent”. Meet up with JN “and he brought with him a pair of very fine soles weighing three pounds which cost only 3d” Sunday Oct 23: Set out in the morning “over some pleasant meadows to a salmon hutch on the River Teign, belonging to Lord Courtney. The fisherman who rents it came thither, while we were there, and I went with him into the hutch. This is a kind of wooden box about 12 feet square placed in the river near the bank. Adjoining to it is a weir which is carried to the other side of the stream, so that the water is kept up to a considerable height in the box. At the end of the hutch that fronts the lower part of the river are three openings. To these are fixed a number of lathes, in such manner that converging 143 toward the inside of the box, being in some degree elastic, and having sharp points, the fish may enter by them but cannot return at the end of the hutch. Next the upper part of the river are four gratings, whose bars are at such a distance as to prevent the fish escaping. By these gratings the water of the river is admitted to run through the box, and they are occasionally shut by letting down some piece of wood which cover them. At the top of the box is a kind of trap door by which they enter to examine whether any fish are taken or not. When I went into the hutch the pieces of wood being let down the bottom was almost dry. There was only one fish taken which we bought and sent to London.” Sets out for Exeter, passing “a fine seat belonging to Lord Clifford called Ubbroke, ornamented with most delightful woods. The whole road is turnpike, and led over Hall Down” 144 Arrives at 2pm in Exeter to dinner. Stayed at Francis Newcombe’s “whose house was again our home during our stay in this city” Monday Oct 24: Went to Sandy Gate, an estate belonging to Mr Sanderson “where there is abundance of partridge and other game. We killed some birds”. Then back to Exeter with Mr R N who dined and supped with them. Tues Oct 25 Spent the morning writing. Was Accession Day, and caught a glimpse of the procession Mayor in a mantle of purple silk; Grenadiers of the Welsh Fusiliers drawn up on Southern Hay / Southney 145 and fire three times. From the northern hill notices “that the soil in general had a very remarkable red hue, and soil of this colour is found to be the richest in the country” Went to see the hospital on Southern Hey. “The building is handsome has a good garden adjoining to it. The wards seem all very clean, and in good order; and the room in which the governors meet is ornamented 146 with portraits of some of the principal benefactors.” Wed Oct 26: Left Exeter at 11am and went to Grange, “the seat of Francis Drew Esq: where we dined. The house is very pleasantly situated between some hills, and round it are planted many trees particularly a great number of Scotch Firs, which thrive well and are the highest I have ever seen. The gardens are laid out in good taste and through them runs a stream of water which forms a beautiful cascade. The house was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and there is a large parlour wainscotted with oak and carved with a great variety of figures in the taste of that time.” Set out for Honiton after dinner, arriving about 7pm Thurs Oct 27: “We this day called on Mr Maynard who showed us his manufactory of druggets, etc and the lace manufactory carried on by Mrs Maynard who has brought it to great perfection. Part of the Devonshire Militia were drawn up in this town in order to be disembodied [disassembled].” [FEMALE ENTREPRENEUR/MANAGER?] Left Honiton about 10am. Came over a good road to Axminster about 1pm. “and visited Mr Whitty’s manufactory of carpets, which he very much to my satisfaction informed us succeeded to his wishes. A great many persons chiefly women and children are employed in it, and as the looms are upright, they sit to work without leaning on their breasts which certainly conduces much to their health.” 148 Afternoon on Charmouth Hill with a view of the sea, and through a small village called Malcolm Lake arrived at Bridport in the evening. “This is a large town well built and chiefly spoken of for its manufactory of hemp, which I should have been well pleased at seeing, if my time had permitted. About this town there are caught great numbers of land rails, a bird of most excellent flavour but the season for them was over before we came hither. Yet we were told that not long before, some of them had been sent to their Majesties by Sir Francis Drake. The manner of taking them is by hawks and spaniels for the birds being sprung by the dog the hawk immediately seizes him. For this purpose many hawks are kept in the town and its neighbourhood.” Fri Oct 28: Hired a guide to take them to Abbotsbury 149 Had a view of the harbour of Bridport: “here is a large basin capable of containing a great number of vessels. Into it the sea flows every tide, and to preserve the basin there are erected at the mouth two piers, made of strong timbers, lined with stone. Between these the vessels enter. This is a very curious strong and useful work.” Go via Burton “chiefly inhabited by fishermen, from whence we soon came to the beach, along which we rode several miles our horses frequently knee deep in sand and pebbles. At length we came to an hill where a house is now building for Lord Ilchester (not to dwell in for I think nobody would live in such a situation, exposed to the sea on one side, and to bleak hills without any shelter on the other but) intended to serve as a summer house, for drinking tea in or any such amusement, and to those who are pleased with a prospect of the water. It is for those purposes very agreeable as it commands a very extensive view of the sea 150 to the east, west, and south.” etc etc Abbotsbury: “celebrated in the story of Wells & Canning [very famous 1753 kidnapping case]. We breakfasted at the house where Wells is said to have been when Canning swore she was at Enfield, but as the persons who kept the house then have left it I could hear nothing of her.” “Near Abbotsbury is a large piece of water formerly belonging to Mr Horner, but now in the possession of Lord Ilchester and called the swannery. We walked to it but were greatly disappointed for we could see only a very few swans owing to a very thick fog which had risen this morning. Adjoining to this water is a decoy for ducks, but the season for taking them being begun we could not get admittance into it.” Fog too thick to visit Portland 151 So instead took the road to Dorchester. Visits the amphitheatre at Maiden Castle, etc etc [includes a sketch] etc etc 152 At Dorchester calls on Dr Cummins, where meets Dr Templeman’s brother. Lay at the King’s Arms. Sat Oct 29: FN parts from them at 7am to return to Exeter, and he and JN proceed on the way to London. Took the Great Road 153 and nothing remarkable occurred. Passed by Milbourne, a handsome seat and park of Mr Plaidwell, arrived at 11am to Blandford “a small but handsome town pleasantly situated on the banks of a river, near which grow some very fine woods. It was market day and the market was well supplied with all sorts of provisions.” Then over a very good road over open downs and through four small villages to Woodyeats Inn [Woodyates] where they dined. Afternoon passed through Coombe [Coombe Bissett] and came to Salisbury. Very short stay, with the Avon supplying water to the inhabitants and streams running through each of the principal streets. Market hill the largest he had seen and round it many good houses. 154 Sun Oct 30: Went to see Wilton House, seat of the Earl of Pembroke etc etc “one front is built according to the design of Inigo Jones and there an elegance and simplicity is seen which everyman of taste wishes to find in our modern buildings. The noble collection of statues, busts, pictures, etc in this house is so well known that it is needless for me to say anything more of them than that those which appeared to me to have the greatest merit are marked with X in my catalogue.” Returns to Salisbury for dinner and in the afternoon travelled to Stockbridge. Nothing remarkable on the way. Stockbridge itself “small and meanly built chiefly celebrated for fine eels and crawfish”. 155 Mon Oct 31: Left Stockbridge early and travelled over open country to Popham Lane where they stopped for breakfast, then through Basingstoke to Hartley Row. “I should willingly have stopped at this place on account of a famous sermon that was preached here about two hundred years ago by one Dr Hyberdyne in praise of thievery, a copy of which is preserved among the Harleian mss in the British Museum [more proof he worked there???], but the house particularly mentioned in the History of Tom Jones being shut up as an inn we continued our journey about two miles further to Harford Bridge and after dinner set forward for Bagshot” where they arrived at 8pm Tues Nov 1: Left Bagshot at 7am and travelled over the heath. Passed Virginia Water, “near which place an excellent road is now making over the sands” Cross the Thames 156 at Staines bridge, stopped for breakfast at Belfont on Hounslow Heath, from thence to dinner at Chiswick, and at about 5pm “I arrived safe at London” ## Add MS 89126/2 ### 1776 to West Midlands Insert in first page: **** July 1776 3 [I here follow the pencilled pagination] Tuesday 9 July 1776: 5pm sets out from London “in the diligence for Birmingham and travelled without company through Henley to Oxford which city I passed through about two in the morning of Wednesday 10th and at Chapel House took into the carriage two gentlemen who had lain there the preceding night and were waiting for a conveyance to Birmingham. One of these was Alexander Gordon Professor of Physic at Aberdeen, the other a young man who lived at Wolverhampton. Nothing particular occurred till I arrived about one o’Clock [1am, 10 July] at Birmingham where Mr Wilkinson and Mr Wedgwood had appointed to meet me but neither of them being come I dined by myself at the Castle. In the afternoon Mr Wilkinson came and we spent the remainder of the day in examining some of the works in the town, the canal for bringing coals etc and slept at the inn this evening.” 4 Thurs 11 July: “Mr Bingham merchant of this town obligingly called on me this morning, introduced me to some of the manufactories I had never seen particularly one of tin buckles of which great quantities are exported. The pure tin is melted in small iron pots and women with small ladles take out as much as will serve for a buckle and cast it in a brass mould through which runs a wire that serves to make the holes, into which the wire is afterwards put for the chapes and tongues to turn on. The buckles when cast are finished by boys with small chisels with great dispatch as indeed everything is in these manufactories. I also visited Mr Clay’s paper work who sent Mrs More a knitting shuttle as did Mr Bingham a pair of scissors. Mr Wedgwood who came to Birmingham this morning, Mr Wilkinson and myself dined this day at Mr Boulton’s at Soho. The plantations here grow most luxuriantly and the grounds and gardens have 5 a very princely appearance. Among the additions to Mr Boulton’s gardens is a monument erected to the memory of his friend Dr Small and a hermitage which is so situated that one of the windows commands a view (through a vista cut in the grove) of the church at Birmingham in which the Dr is buried, and the monument is so placed that the steeple of the church seems to make a part of it and has a fine effect. The monument when finished is to be of a triangular form with an urn on the top; on two sides of the triangle are to be verses inscribed, of which a copy is annexed, and on the other side the doctor’s name and additions #. Mr Boulton entertained us with a history of his (Mr Watt’s) new fire engine. That which is erected in his works was taken to pieces that we might examine the several parts but was put together this evening and worked for our entertainment and performed 6 all that could be expected. We slept this night at Soho and were treated with all that elegance which characterises this family.” Friday July 12: “Mr Wilkinson and myself left Mr Boulton’s this morning (leaving Mr Wedgwood with his son and nephew there) and proceeded on our way to Stourbridge. On our journey we visited Mr Wilkinson’s work at Bradley near Bilson. Here some of the coal pits took fire about seven years since and continue burning in such manner that from the cracks in the ground for a considerable space (several acres) the smoke is continually issuing out. Here are many coal pits which resemble deep wells being bricked great part of the way down. One of the iron furnaces was at work. Each charge consists of 7 cwt of calcined ore, 5 cwt of coke, 2 cwt of limestone and 2 cwt of refuse iron, and the furnace is charged 14 or 15 times in 24 hours. The bellows 7 are wholly made of cast iron and worked by a fire engine. The blast is equal to four pounds on every square inch, but as there is a pair of bellows of the same construction on a larger scale at Willey I shall forbear entering into a further description of these. In our way from this work we passed over many hills from whence we had fine prospects the neighbouring country and through the town of Dudley near which is an old ruined castle from whence Lord Dudley takes his title. This town is in general handsome, has two churches in it but the people all about the country have the appearance of great poverty, many of the children both boys and girls being almost naked, and the roads very indifferent. Navigable canals are making through many parts of this country and one of them passes through Mr Wilkinson’s work at Bradley and is of very great service to him, for as he not only smelts 8 iron there, but makes both bricks and tiles for sale he is enabled to send them and his coals to wherever they are wanted. From Dudley we soon came to Stourbridge. Here I met Mr Keir the translator of Macquer’s Chemical Dictionary. He is now engaged in a manufacture of glass of which there are many in this neighbourhood. He is a very intelligent and sensible gentleman and treated me with great politeness.” Saturday 13 July: “According to the agreement I had made with Mr Boulton and Wedgwood to meet them at a new fire engine (on Mr Watt’s principle) lately erected at Bloomfield Colliery near a village called Tipton in Staffordshire, I set out this morning from Stourbridge on horseback along a very bad stony road (though turnpike) to Dudley, from thence to a bridge over the canal, and then had a most agreeable ride by the canal side about two miles to the fire engine. The company I expected not being arrived I engaged the engineer to show me the whole machine. Mr Perrins (the engineer) says 9 he was about to erect an engine on this colliery upon the old construction whose house cylinder was to have been 72 inches diameter and should have been under the necessity of constantly employing two boilers each of them of the size of the single one now used, but finds one boiler with Mr Watt’s engine quite sufficient. The dimensions and work of the new engine erecting on this colliery are as follows. The house cylinder 50 inches diameter is covered with hair about 3 inches thick which is kept on by staves bound lightly round it. The pump barrels (in number two) are 14.5 inches diameter. Depth of the water 59 yards, length of the stroke in the pump 7.5 feet. The engine does not at present work so deep as is intended by about 60 yards, and in order to avoid mischief the water which surrounds the condenser is kept hot, so that when that water is kept cold there is not a doubt but the effect will be equal to what is required. [on obverse otherwise blank page:] “Since my return to London Mr Boulton has been in town and informs me that the pumps work at their full depth and the engine performs everything they desire to have it do.” 10 “In this part of the country live great numbers of nailors and very near the engine I went to a cottage where several girls and women were employed in making small tacks. Mr Boulton and Mr Wedgwood having met me we dined at the village in the evening. Mr B returned to Birmingham and the rest of us to Stourbridge where we spent the evening with Mr Keir. In our return we missed the road from Dudley by going too much to the right hand, however though it led us some way about yet the goodness of the road and the pleasantness of the country made ample amends for it. Stourbridge is a very considerable town and this being the quarterly meeting of the ironmasters who meet here four times in a year to settle the value of their goods etc the town was full of company. Among them were Mr Knight of Clay Hill and Mr Reynolds of Ketley [Richard Reynolds, 1735-1816]. 11 Sunday 14 July: “This morning Mr Wilkinson and myself proceeded to Broseley in chaises taking Mr Wedgwood’s son with us and leaving the rest of the company to prosecute their journey on horseback. We passed through Stew-honey [Stewponey] Canal and Stourton three villages and came to a house called Rock tavern celebrated in this country as having been formerly the rendezvous of thieves and highwaymen. The road here lies over many hills and the land being ornamented with several woods the views are extremely beautiful. We had not long left the Rock Tavern before we entered some large commons on which many sheep were grazing. On one of these commons is a school house founded by a dowager lady Stamford for the education of children. It is a neat building. Adjoining to it is a plantation belonging to the Earl of Stamford who has large property in this neighbourhood. Not far from hence we passed through Enville a neat town with a noble inn (the Swan). In its neighbourhood grow great quantities of heart cherries. 12 We had not long passed this town before we had a distant view of the celebrated hill in Shropshire called (Caer Caradoc) which signifies the fortress or strong place of Caradoc whom we usually call Caractacus. On this hill is annually held a meeting of the neighbouring gentry when an oration is made in praise of that hero. In about an hour we arrived at Bridgnorth and crossed the Severn by a bridge at this town. The town is situated on the banks of this river and has much the resemblance of some of the towns in China as seen in the paintings from that country. That part of the town which lies on the east side of the river being in a bottom and that on the west on a very steep and high hill, so that the foundations of the houses on one side are many feet higher than the tops of those on the other. Near Bridgnorth are the remains of a castle situated in a romantic manner and many habitations are dug in the rocks in which poor people dwell. 13 Near the bridge is a waterwheel turned by the course of the river which throws water in a cistern on the top of the hill for the supply of the buildings in the upper part of the town with soft water. At this town we changed horses and in less than two hours passing through two or three villages came to Mr Wilkinson’s house at Broseley. We found the family much distressed, a young gentleman (Dr Blakeway) being extremely ill and his death expected every day. he is since dead. In the afternoon we visited Mr Wilkinson’s works called New Willey. They are situated near a mile from his dwelling house and are very extensive. Here the elements, fire, air and water, are employed in their utmost force to mechanical purposes. For a large fire engine (on the new construction) is made use of as bellows to drive air into the smelting furnace and a large pool of water (22 acres) supplies a current which serves to turn the overshot wheels (20 feet diameter) by which the 14 cannon are bored. The bellows here are of the same construction with those at Bradley but on a much larger scale, and the regulating bellows are here of brickwork bound together by iron instead of being made of cast iron as at the other. The blast here is very tremendous and may be heard at the dwelling house which as abovementioned is a mile distant. Great quantities of coal were burning into coke which is done something in the same manner as wood is made into charcoal and several heaps of the ore were calcining which is performed by laying strata of coal and ore interchangeably on each other and firing the whole in the open air. While we were at the furnace Mr Wedgwood came to Broseley Monday July 15: “About six o’clock this morning we went to the furnace to see two cannon and some pigs of iron cast. This furnace is perhaps one of the most exact representations 15 (in miniature) of a volcano that can be imagined. The noise of the bellows — The dashing of water on the hot slag as it is drawn out of the furnace and the steam that rises therefrom — The flame driven out at the top of the furnace which resembles the crater and the streams of liquid iron which are a just imitation of the burning lava, at the same time that they appear really tremendous are most astonishingly beautiful, and put all pictures of volcanoes to shame. Calcined iron stone, coke and lime stone are the materials made use of, and the quantity of iron produced is from 20 to 28 tons per week. The metal is discharged from the furnace every 12 hours. By the new fire engine, though only one boiler is used, and the chimney has a large hole made into it from without to lessen the draught, yet more blast is obtained than is required for the furnace. When with the old engine two boilers were constantly 16 employed, the chimneys near 40 feet high, and yet the blast was hardly sufficient. The house cylinder of the old engine was 49 inches diameter and the new one only 38. When we returned from the furnace we went to a manufactory of porcelain in the manner of that at Worcester lately established about two miles from Broseley. They warehouse is in Friday Street London. They succeed very well, their glaze is particularly fine and we bought some of their ware. This afternoon we rode on horseback to some lime pits belonging to Mr Wilkinson about two miles from Broseley. In our way we took an opportunity of viewing a petrified tree some time since discovered in digging stone for mending the roads. It appears plainly to have been the butt of a tree whose diameter is nearly 3 feet with roots extending further into the rock. The height of the butt is something more than 3 feet, but parts of it are continually 17 [printed insert of an account of an earthquake] 18 knocked off by persons who go to see it and I have brought a piece away with me. [DESTRUCTIVE TOURISM] In our way to Mr W’s lime pits we passed through a most beautiful country with the river Severn winding through it. But where the pits are is a hill many hundred feet above the level of the river covered with a hanging wood overlooking the land with the Severn meandering in the valley for many miles. On the opposite side of the stream is the land called the Birches (where the slip or earthquake happened on the 27 of May 1773. See the account annexed) and also Coalbrookdale, with the iron furnaces and houses scattered about, great quantities of iron and coal lying on the wharf and barges in abundance waiting in the river to convey them away. In short it is hardly possible to conceive a more romanticised and beautiful scene, the Wrekin which is only two or three miles distant forming a background highly ornamental and magnificent. 19 The roads here for carrying ore, limestone and coal are called Rail-Roads. They consist of bars of cast iron (see their form on the opposite page) ![[Pasted image 20231221124732.png]] [opposite page: “aa the iron rails, bbb the wooden sleepers to which the rails are fastened by wooden pins driven through the holes c, dd the horse tract [track] filled with cinders and slag to a level with the rails. Note the sleepers at each end of the rails are wider than those in the middle to admit of other rails being fastened to them, and stones or bricks are rammed under the rail between the sleepers, to prevent its breaking with the weight of the load passing over it.”]] which are fastened by wooden pins to wooden sleepers laid across the horse tract [track], and the carriages running on wheels which have shoulders to prevent their rising over the rail. They move when loaded with three ton with great ease and convenience; the horse way between the rails is made with the cinder and slag of the furnaces, and forms as fine a tract for riding on as can be wished for. Tis pity something of this kind cannot be contrived for all the turnpikes in the Kingdom. The first rail roads had wooden rails only, and some of them remain to this time but the constant want of repair has made it appear that notwithstanding the great expence at first laying down, iron railing 20 in the end proves most eligible. In many parts the railing is single as above described but sometimes it is necessary to have two rows of it and it is then called a double rail road. The single road costs about £1,000 per mile making [?]. Mr Wedgwood is about to have about ten miles of double railing done between his house and Derbyshire to bring limestone to his canal. But to return to the lime pits. Although most of the stone is drawn by horses along these rail roads, yet the way in some parts is so steep that accidents have sometimes happened by the loaded carriage overrunning the horses and both tumbling down the hill together to the utter destruction of the poor animals, and in one part the hill is so very steep as to render the use of horses impracticable. Here the following method is made use of: two carriages are joined together by a chain whose length is equal to 21 the height of the hill. This chain goes round a roller at the top of the hill, and one of the carriages being there loaded and set going down the hill its weight brings up the empty one, which in its turn is loaded a the top of the hill while that which went down is emptying at the bottom. Thus the carriages one full the other empty are alternately passing up and down, the loaded one constantly bringing up the empty one. Soon after our return from his very agreeable ride Mr Wilkinson’s brother and Mr English arrived from his works at Bersham near Wrexham. 22 Tues July 16: “This day being appointed to dine with Mr Reynolds, ironmaster at Ketley we proceeded about 10 in the forenoon to the ferry and crossing the Severn to Coalbrookdale were met by Mr Reynolds and his eldest son, a fine youth about 18 years of age [Richard Reynolds and his son William Reynolds, 1758-1803]. With them we passed through the works at Coalbrookdale which consist of two blast furnaces, two forges, slitting mills, boring mills, etc. All the bellows we saw are of iron but not worked as those of Mr Wilkinson, for here water is used which turning overshot wheels with cogs on the axis the pistons are alternately pressed down in two cylinders. But as the streams which supply the pools are very small, large fire engines are used to throw the water back into the pools. When the pressure of the cogs is taken off the pistons are raised again by a weight at the other end of the beam. In some of these bellows the air is driven through a pipe from 23 each of the cylinders to the tuire [tuyere] in others it is caught in a box and from thence conveyed in one pipe to the tuyere. But whichever way is practised it appears Mr Wilkinson’s bellows have the greatest effect. This great work is carried on by the Messrs Darby. On a pretty high hill at the back of one of the furnaces we were shown the remains of the butts of two or three large trees which were found in the rock of limestone of the same kind with that we had seen yesterday. From hence we passed on to Horsehay, a work belonging to Mr Reynolds. In our way hither we travelled through the most romantic and beautiful country that can be imagined. On each side of the valley are hills of stupendous height covered with wood, in some places deep pits, in others huge masses of limestone and ore lying in view, in the bottoms large pools of water, which is drawn up by the fire engines for the use of the bellows and running along the loaders forms very considerable rivers which are suspended in the air. 24 Add to these the many fires which break out from the tops of the smelting furnaces and those which are lighted to burn the coal into coke and to calcine the ore, and a scene more magnificent can hardly be conceived. The Dale is extremely populous and the number of houses (some of which may not improperly be stiled magnificent) scattered on the side of the rocks do not add a little to the beauty of the prospect. From a disagreement with the ground landlord the railroad through some part of these works is now changing its course, and although it is a double railing two miles long, and of course four miles of rail, and great part of the road is to be cut through the rock, yet they have only begun it about ten days and it will be completed in a month. We thought there could not be less than 500 men employed on this business and the different occupations they were engaged in added greatly to the beauty of the scene. 25 At Horsehay there are two blast furnaces blown by water wheels which are supplied by two large fire engines. At Ketley furnace which is distant about two miles from Horsehay and belongs also to Mr Reynolds are three furnaces blown in the same manner as at Horsehay. Just as we arrived here, whether by accident or design I know not, we were informed they were going to cast, that is to let the metal out of the furnace into the moulds made in sand to receive it. It was said to be about 7 tons in quantity and the channel through which it ran and from which it discharged itself into the moulds was about 50 feet long. It had not ran far before it began in the language of the workmen to boil. Immediately the building was filled with sparks of liquid iron forming the most beautiful appearance of stars that can be conceived, and though it was about noon and a fine day, yet their brilliancy was such 26 that they were all distinctly visible and exhibited a firework magnificent beyond conception. Most of the company (which consisted of 12 or 13) decamped as fast as possible, but seeing the workmen remain in the midst of the explosion and judging that I might retreat if the building took fire, I stayed with some few of the company to see the whole process. The workmen exerted themselves with great agility and courage and by throwing sand upon the place from whence the explosion arose in about two minutes effectually extinguished it, but not before some of them had suffered severely by the fire. This mischief arose from some wet clay or moist stone being left in the way of the metal, and though there was reason to believe at one time that the whole quantity would have blown up yet it was computed there was not above 500wt [5 cwt?] lost and as soon as the explosion was ended, and the surface of the iron had hardened the upper crust was thrown off and the metal again ran in its usual channel and filled the moulds which were for pig iron, 27 the only kind made at Horsehay and Ketley. Such an accident happens very seldom and I could not help saying to Mr Reynolds that although I was sorry for his loss (which however seemed no object to him) yet if it did occur once in 20 years I could not but be rejoiced it happened when I was there. From the furnace we soon got to Mr Reynolds’s house and having cleansed ourselves as well as the time allowed from the dust contracted in passing through these regions of fire and smoke we sat down to an elegant dinner, seemingly no unacceptable employment to any of the company. Young Mr Reynolds is making a collection of ores and minerals particularly those of this country of which he obligingly gave some to Mr Wedgwood and myself. He also showed us his elaboratory lately built for his trying experiments to which he is very attentive and promises by his good manner and polite conduct to prove a useful and honourable member of society. Everything in this family wore that appearance of neatness and simplicity for which persons of [sidenote: “Mr Reynolds as well as his nephews the Messrs Darby of Coalbrookdale are Quakers”] 28 Mr Reynolds’s religious opinions are famous. Here Mr Wedgwood left us on his way home and in the evening Messrs Wilkinson, Mr English and myself returned to Broseley.” Wed July 17: “This morning I again visited the works at Willey, and again examined the bellows and fire engine. The house cylinder 38 inches diameter. The blowing cylinder 72 inches diameter. The condenser 14 inches diameter, 6 feet long. Length of the stoke in the house and blowing cylinders 7ft 6inches. Number of strokes per minute 14.5. There are two regulating billies [the beams?] the one 22 ft 9 inches by 10 feet, the other 33 feet 9 inches by 9 feet, and each of them 3 feet 3 inches deep. The column of water in the cistern surrounding the regulating billies 5 ft 6 inches deep, the two communication pipes which pass from the blowing cylinder to each of the billies 15 inches diameter. The discharging pipe of the nose through which the air is driven into the furnace 3 inches diameter. There are leathern joints in two parts of the pipes and so strong is the blast that some air will pass through 29 the substance of the leather. A small blast furnace for melting the borings of cannon is built by the side of the pipe leading from the bellows to the great furnace, and as there is a considerable quantity of air now let off (not being wanted) it is proposed to turn that stream of air through the small furnace.” [FURTHER EFFECTS OF HIGHER WATT ENGINE EFFICIENCY?] “Mr Wilkinson is also going to erect another fire engine on Mr Watt’s construction in which the mode of working will be reversed, the piston being driven upwards from the house cylinder. This engine is to raise water to turn two wheels for boring cannon which are now worked by a current from his large pool. But as this pool is often too low in dry seasons, the engine will throw the dead water back again and serve the wheels constantly. [CIRCULATING ENGINES] About the works today I collected some specimens of ore, slag, etc and we rode over the land held by Mr Wilkinson of Mr Forrester where his ore and coals are got. Part of this land is covered with wood in which are great numbers of coal pits but none very deep. In some of them were 30 lamps as they are called here burning. These lamps are no other than circular grates with fire in them suspended four or five feet below the surface of the ground, and serve to draw the foul air from those pits with which the shaft they are hung in communicate[s]. [MINE VENTILATION] Mr W. intends to dig two canals here, the one to convey the ore and fuel from this wood to the furnace, the other to bring them from the higher grounds to the part they are now working where the coal will be coked and from thence by the first canal carried to the works. We saw on one part of his land a heap of pitch rock, the stone from whence the British Oil is extracted. The hills here afford many fine prospects of the country. This afternoon we again crossed the Severn to the Dale with an intent of examining the model of the iron bridge which is proposed to be built over the river, but Mr Darby not being at home we did not see the model. A drawing or two were produced one of them very like the centre arch of Walton Bridge, the parts to be all of 31 cast iron. But this it is supposed will be too expensive, and therefore another is likely to be adopted (agreeably to the original design) in which the centres only are to be of cast iron, which are to be well secured together by iron pins passing through them, and are to remain part of the bridge, which is to be 16 feet wide. There are to be 4 centres, and small brick arches are to be turned from centre to centre and consequently across the bridge, after which another brick arch is to be turned lengthwise over the whole and the road finished with gravel. This will afford an easy communication from one part of this populous country to another and be of considerable utility. This bridge is to be only one arch and the breadth of the river is 120 feet. Proposals for building it have been published and if no one offers to do it for less than £2,000, Mr Wilkinson has engaged to complete it for that sum. One principal reason for using cast iron in the construction of this bridge is that all the parts may be perfectly prepared before they are attempted to be set up 32 which may then be soon done and no obstruction be occasioned to the navigation. [SPEED] Another reason is the practicability of executing such a work being shown, and a proof given that it is the cheapest way of constructing a large arch it may tend to promote the use of cast iron in works of this kind and prove very beneficial to the country where the chief manufacture of that commodity is carried on. [CHEAP + MARKETING] This evening on our return to Broseley we found Mr Mackay who informed me the plate glass manufactory on his estate in Lancashire has stopped working on account of some disputes with the collectors of excise. This may be one reason but the large brass plate is broke and Mr W. is engaged to cast another for that work.” Thurs July 18: again visits Willey but nothing particular happened Fri July 19: “Mr Wilkinson and myself left Broseley this morning about 10 o’clock and came to Wenlock now a very poor and despicable town yet formerly the capital 33 of this part of the country. Near this town are large quarries of limestone which is burnt by coals supplied from Mr W’s collieries. We walked from this town down a hill called Wenlock Edge. The upper part of this hill is limestone, the lower a stone without any properties of lime and which crumbles when exposed to the air. A very remarkable separation takes place between these two kinds of stone called here a fault, the strata in the fault appearing to have been turned in such manner as to lie perpendicular to the horizon as llll whereas the strata on each side dip thus ////. And beyond the fault no limestone is found for many miles. In the crumbling or the workmen call it the rotten stone we found many fossil shells, and small veins of yellow earth lie between the layers of the stone with vast numbers of spiders hid in the joints. We passed from hence through Harley, Cresset [almost certainly Cressage], and Cumb [likely Cound - the Cressets lived at Cound Hall] by a fine house and beautiful park belonging to a Miss Cresset [Cressage] and arrived at 34 Shrewsbury about one o’clock. We entered this town by a new bridge lately built over the Severn. It is well designed and executed but seems rather too high and steep. The river Severn surrounds the principal part of this town in form of a horseshoe. There is a part of the castle remaining and from the hill within the walls a beautiful prospect of the town, the river, and the adjacent country presents itself. In this like most other old towns great part of the streets are narrow but in some places where new buildings have been erected there are open spaces, and the houses being built of well coloured brick make a good appearance and on the whole it may be said to be a very capital town. On one side of the town is a considerable piece of ground belonging to the corporation called the Quarry from stone having been formerly dug in it though the whole is now grown over with fine grass. This piece of ground is bounded on one side by the river and the banks being planted with a double row of lime trees a 35 fine, pleasant and shady walk is formed something resembling Christchurch Walks at Oxford but I think superior to them. This town has long been famous for two sorts of cake the one called from the name of the place Shrewsbury Cake the other Simnel. Of the first I purchased some from Mr Ireland a civil well behaved confectioner, who told me the other kind were only made in Lent. These simnels are plum cakes enclosed in a hard baked crust tinged yellow by saffron. It may not be amiss to relate one story concerning a simnel of an extraordinary size made for Mr Wilkes during his confinement in the King’s Bench. Several of the inhabitants who by the bye differ little from Jacobites in their sentiments agreed to club for a simnel of 45 pounds weight [reference to 1745?] to be sent to the patriot during his imprisonment and paid part of the money down. Some time after a lady who came from London hearing of the affair mentioned her surprise to some of the subscribers at their sending such a thing as a 36 simnel (which is a remain of the ceremony of the Romish Church) to one who is by birth and profession a Presbyterian. A Presbyterian! say the subscribers, had we known that before he should have had no simnel from us nor will we pay any more of our subscription towards it. So the poor baker was obliged to set down with the loss while the patriot no doubt regaled himself with the cake. [LOL] The principal public buildings are the infirmary, the foundling hospital, and the public school, all handsome buildings. There are five churches, two bridges, and some gates, in a niche over one of them is a statute of Llewellyn the last prince of Wales. The critical situation in which we left Dr Blakeway was a sufficient reason for me to insist on Mr Wilkinson’s returning to Broseley as soon as possible which he did this afternoon, but not before he had introduced me to Mr Flint the post master of this town, an obliging, civil and polite gentleman 37 with whose family I supped and spent this evening very agreeably, and who very kindly sent me to the Talbot Inn where I lodged a print of the view of Stour Port the place where all the canals cut through these parts of the Kingdom join the River Severn.” Sat 20 July: 8:30am leaves for Etruria, “Mr Wedgwood having sent a horse over for that purpose. Mr Wilkinson’s brother [presumably William Wilkinson] who had stayed at Shrewsbury on my account accompanying me about two miles on my way, he then turned off for Bersham in Derbyshire and I continued my road through the villages of Shawbry, Hobnet [Hodnet], etc to Drayton a small market town in Shropshire on the borders of Staffordshire. This town of Drayton is a poor wretched place without any works carrying on in it or near it. I dined at the Talbot a despicable inn. Our road this morning lay through a variety of country great part 38 barren in the highest degree, very few inhabitants and all the employment we saw them busied in was burning fern for ashes to wash with. [SOAP] In some parts however a little cultivation had taken place, the crops were in general hemp, barley and rye. [e.g. this is the land between Shrewsbury and Market Drayton] About three in the afternoon I pursued my journey to Etruria. The land during this part of the day [i.e. between Market Drayton and Etruria] was rather more cultivated than what I had seen in the morning though we passed a tract called Mare [presumably Maer] Heath as barren and desert as need be. On this spot are some high hills commanding very distant prospects and I was told one of these hills is thought to be the highest land above the level of the sea in England and being situated near the centre of the island it is not improbable it may be so. From hence we still plainly saw the Wrekin and it 39 may not be amiss to mention that in this journey reckoning from Mr Reynolds’ house at Ketley and continuing a line from thence by Broseley to Shrewsbury and from thence to Drayton, I have made near the circuit of this famous hill,for in our journey this morning we were travelling around it within the distance of a few miles. We passed by Mr Manwaring’s park at Whitmore and got to Etruria between six and seven in the evening. It afforded me great pleasure to observe the several useful improvements my good friend Mr Wedgwood had made on this delightful spot since my being there in the year 1774. The houses for his workmen which he had then built on his land near the road and were then in number 14 are now increased to 30. The wharf at the bridge is removed to a branch 40 cut out of the canal about half a mile lower down and an inn is erecting on the spot where the company who are continually visiting his works may have their cattle and carriages put up which are now obliged to be sent to his own stables near half a mile distant or stand exposed to the weather. He has also let the water into a pit he formerly dug clay and gravel from and in the middle of this pond is to be erected a monument in remembrance and honour of the late ingenious surveyor Mr Brindley, whose greatest work (the tunnel through Hare Castle Hill) is about four miles distant and within sight of this spot. During my stay here I took an opportunity of passing through this tunnel which was not quite perfected when I was here before; for this purpose having procured a boat with a horse etc two of Mr Wedgwood’s principal persons of the manufactory 41 with Mr Wedgwood’s son and nephew two other persons and myself we set out in the afternoon and passed through the tunnel which is full a mile and three quarters long into Cheshire. From Mr Wedgwood’s to the entrance of the hill is about four miles. The whole therefore is 6.75 miles. The cutting through this hill was a most laborious and expensive work. In some parts they were impeded by veins of sand which it was found extremely difficult to support and indeed in those parts the waters from the springs on the hill are continually trickling through. In other parts solid rock was to be cut through and the stone and rubbish to the amount of many thousand tons drawn up through shafts to the top of the hill. In some places indeed they met with what was of more profit for they cut through some veins of fine coal which are now used in Mr Wedgwood’s and the other potteries in this 42 neighbourhood. The tunnel is about 7 feet wide, the water 5 feet deep and from the water to the top of the arch about 5 feet. The boats are worked along by the men on board them shoving with their hands against the top and sides and by use they move them with great velocity and regularity. In all parts except where there is coal or rock the tunnel is lined with brick and in two or three places are shafts remaining open to the top of the hill which serve in some degree to ventilate the tunnel. I went into one of the coal pits but the men had left work so that I saw little. As the tunnel will not admit the boats to pass one another it has been found proper to let them enter at stated hours at one end and other hours at the other. But as we had made it too late before we set out the time for entering again at the 43 end we went out at was expired and I thought it more advisable to leave the boat and walk over the hill with the two young lads than run the hazard of meeting a boat in the tunnel and be forced back again and perhaps be obliged to walk home after it was dark. And it proved fortunate that I did so for the boat in returning was met by two others who obliged them to return and after spending much time and bestowing great labour all the company I left behind were forced to walk home and did not arrive there till after 12 o’clock at night, whereas we who set out before them had a fine view of the romantic country among these hills and got safe back about ten o’clock. I was much surprised to find on these hills which appear very barren and desolate so many inhabitants but it seems that wherever fuel can be had cheap there inhabitants are never wanting. 44 An Act of Parliament was obtained some time since to enable Sir Nigel Gresley to cut a navigable canal from one of his coal pits in this range of hills to the town of Newcastle under Lyme. The canal is now finished and coals are brought by it which are sold to the poor in the town at 3d per cwt. The vicar of this town [Newcastle] (the Reverend Mr Fernyhough) related a fact to me which it may not be improper to mention. He had observed that for some years past though the number of inhabitants were considerably increased in his parish yet the number of burials were considerably diminished. On this account he examined the registers which fortunately had be[en] so kept as to distinguish the diseases of which the parishioners had died and here he found that under the article of smallpox such a decrease had happened since the introduction of inoculation (which is now general through the whole country), as accounted fully for the difference. I desired him to let these matters be digested and hope he will let the public know them. Mr Wedgwood’s and all the works in the pottery (as indeed all seemed to be at Birmingham, Coalbrookdale, etc) are going on with great spirit, and as if there was no defect in 45 the trade of the country. Nor did I hear any complaints made for want of business unless among some of the nailers, whose employment is said to suffer the most of any. Yet they are not distressed so much as was expected, owing to some of the Masters keeping the men at work in hopes when the present disputes are ended they may bring their goods to a profitable market. [REVOLUTIONARY WAR RECESSION] During my abode at Etruria, Mr Wedgwood and myself made an excursion on horseback to a very high hill on the borders of Cheshire called Mow Cop about 8 miles from his house and which terminates a beautiful view from some of the windows. We set out about 7 in the morning and travelling gently came about 9 to a large house built by Sir Nigel Gresley for his own dwelling but now let to a Mr Henshall [Hugh Henshall, 1734-1816] a surveyor, whose sister the late Mr Brindley married and who from that connection and his own industry is now become one of the principal persons in the country.” [MIDDLE CLASS MOBILITY - NB Henshall completed Harecastle Tunnel, and was Brindley’s heir] With him we breakfasted and he obligingly accompanied us with a telescope to the top of the hill which is about two or three miles distant from his house. In our way and at a little distance from Mr Henshall’s we crossed the 46 head of a large pool of water. Form this pool the two rivers Trent and Dane take their rise and as the one shapes its course to the eastward and falls into the sea at Hull and the other running to the west discharges itself at Liverpool, England is plainly divided into two islands by these rivers, and from hence provably arises the Law division of the Kingdom into North and South of Trent. The road from hence to the top of the hill is narrow, rugged, and stony but all the difficulties are fully made amends for by the prospect from the summit. For whether we consider the view to the northwest which overlooking the county of Chester (not improperly called the Vale Royal of England) or to the other points of the compass where the beautiful hills of Derbyshire, Staffordshire, Shropshire, etc present themselves, with valleys, rivers, woods, and canals interspersed, it is hardly possible to conceive a more extensive and engaging prospect, which without doubt was greatly heightened by the brightness and clearness of the day than which it is not possible to conceive a finer than we were favoured with. This hill seems to be almost wholly moor stone or granite 47 and immense quantities have been dug for ages past for supplying the country with millstones and pavements. In one deep quarry there lay great numbers of millstones ready formed, yet several men were employed in making others. They use a forked stick which serves as a pair of compasses for describing the circle of the size the stone is intended to be. They then dig round it with large picks till it is sufficiently loosened and prise it up with iron crows. It takes a man about a fortnight to raise one and he is paid about 20s for it. If it is broke in the working the labourer loses his wages. [MILLSTONE QUARRYING DESCRIPTION] Between the blocks of the stone there lies considerable veins of a fine white fluor. Some will be tried in Mr Wedgwood’s works, as one kind of the stone has already been used by some of the potters. This hill is the joint property of Wilbraham Bootle Esq of Cheshire whose seat we saw from hence and __ Sneyd Esq of Kiel [Walter Sneyd of Keele] in Staffordshire. The former of these gentlemen has erected a large room for a summer house which is not only adapted for the enjoyment of the fine 48 prospect from this hill but serves as a beautiful object to all the houses for many miles round. On the side of the hill towards Cheshire and not far from the top in one of the old quarries a large rock is left standing in a rugged uncouth form. It is called the Black Mare’s Hoof and is said to be a boundary between Staffordshire and Cheshire. Whence the name arose I could not learn … In another of the quarries near the top of the hill is a fine spring of water. Mr Henshall who has surveyed most parts of this country computed that the summit of this hill could not be less than 1,800 yards above the level of the sea at Liverpool. From hence we returned well pleased with our morning’s entertainment to Etruria, and from thence to Mr Sparrow’s at Newcastle [under Lyme] to dinner who is making great improvements in his garden, etc. 49 The spirit of improvement (which Mr Wedgwood so happily began in this neighbourhood) continues to spread itself through all the people and in consequence of it a new turnpike road is now making from Newcastle, through Woolstanton to Burslem and so into the heart of the Pottery which cannot fail of being highly useful to the industrious inhabitants of the populous towns and villages hereabout who are daily increasing especially on the side of the canal. For between Etruria and the tunnel three or four new works have been erected within these two years. The people here rich and poor, consider him as one sent for their instruction and benefit and accordingly pay him every due attention and regard. I parted from this elegant and agreeable place (Etruria) on Friday July 26 and at Newcastle got a place in the Liverpool stage for London. The whole carriage had been engaged by Mr Smythe of Liverpool who with three servants came armed with musquets [muskets], 50 blunderbusses, pistols, etc. which were all necessary as there were no less than 32,500 light guineas in the carriage, Mr Smythe being the person appointed by Government to receive the light gold coin at Liverpool of which he informed me he had sent up in all 400,000. Whether through fear of the firearms or not having had information of the value of our cargo I cannot say, but we escaped all molestation and got safe to London about 5 o’clock in the afternoon on Saturday July 27th.” 51 “Inscription on one side of a monument erected in Mr Boulton’s garden at Soho, to the memory of Dr Small of Birmingham: ‘Beyond the rage of time, or fortune’s power Remain cold stone, remain to mark that hour When all the noblest gifts that heav’n e’er gave Were destined to a dark untimely grave Oh! Skilled on reason’s boldest wing to rise And catch each glimmer of the opening skies Oh! Gentle bosom! Oh unspotted mind Oh friend! In vain__ To virtue and mankind Thy loved remains we trust to this sad shrine Secure to feel no second loss like thine __’ On one side of the monument: M.S. Gulielmi Small, M.D. Ob: Feb.ry XXV MDCCLXXV [on the other side] Ye gay and young who thoughtless of your doom Shun the disgustful mansions of the dead Where melancholy broods o’er many a tomb Mouldring beneath the yew’s unwholesome shade If chance ye enter these sequester’d groves And day’s bright sunshine for a while forego Oh! Leave to folly’s cheek the laughs and loves And give one hour to phylosophic woe Here while no titled dust or sainted bone No lover weeping over beauty’s bier No warrior frowning in historic stone Extorts your praises or requests your tear Cold contemplation leans her aching head On human woe her steady eye she turns Waves her meek hand, and sighs for science dead For science, virtue and for Small she mourns [Notes that “a statute of Contemplation is to be erected near the monument] ### 1780 to Wales & Lancashire 52r [his own new pagination: 1] Wed June 28 1780: Left London before 6am “in company with Mr Williams of Llanidey [Llanidan: Thomas Williams, “the copper king”, 1737-1802] in Anglesey and as we travelled in his chaise and horses, breakfasted at Barnet where his horses were left to be brought on to Chester while we proceeded on the journey with post horses. We dined this day at Daventry and slept at Coleshill and on 29th got into the chaise by 5 o’clock and proceeded on our journey. Nothing material occurred till we came towards Etruria in Staffordshire. That part of the country seems still to be in a thriving state. Two large houses are lately built on the hill between Newcastle and Etruria and many more round the country. Here we dined and were shown some trials made by Mr Wedgwood to ascertain the origin and determine a mode of classing stones by trying them by fire; some stones were found to diminish in size, by burning others to retain their size, and others to increase in bulk by firing. Of the first kind are those of a clay original. Of the second the flinty or quartose [? quarzite?] kind, and the third of the granite kind 53v [2] The garden, house, and all here wear the face of peace and happiness such as the owner merits. As it was our intention to pursue our journey further this day we left this most agreeable family soon after dinner, having heard that Baron de Potmanierks [??] had not only called on Mr Wedgwood but was so pleased with him as to desire to spend a whole afternoon there. We passed along the road through the Pottery and among the hills leaving Mow Cop on our right and many coal pits on our left to the Red Bull and joined the Great Road again at Laughton in Cheshire where we passed under an arch turned over the road in order to carry the canal on its level. For some time the road continues part[?] the land flat but afterwards the road became very sandy, to Sandbach a mean town in Cheshire. It was market day and the bells were ringing on occasion of a wedding. Otherwise the place seemed very dull and insignificant. From hence 53r [3] we continued our route through heavy sands till we came to the side of a canal and the road being harder our journey for some miles towards Middlewich was agreeable enough. Here we stopped only to change horses. At this town some salt works are carried on but the place appears a poor one, the women chiefly employed in spinning flax and knitting stockings. Our journey from Middlewich was through very heavy sands to Northwich which is a handsome town with many well built houses and here are the largest works for fine salt carried on of any in this country. Notwithstanding the sandiness of the roads and apparent poverty of the country between Middlewich and Northwich yet there is an very good house lately built near the road by a Mr Tomkinson who is improving the land by marling it, and seemingly very advantageously. The weather this evening proved remarkably fine and as we passed over a large common a beautiful meteor flew before us and seemed to fall at no great 54v [4] distance from us. It appeared of a cylindrical form three or four inches long and one thick of white fire colour and of the highest brilliancy. It was our intention to have reached Mr Mackay’s [Aneas Mackay?] at Ravenhead [glassworks?] this evening, but finding it 11 o’clock when we arrived at Warrington we slept there the night.” Friday 30 June: “This morning I was informed that T[or S?] B. Bailey Esq of Hope had just left the town of Warrington having dined there the day before at a meeting of the Trustees of the Academy. But here I met Mr Smythe of Liverpool with whom I had travelled in a former journey when he was carrying 32,500 light guineas to London. He told me that on his return with 50,000 in the coach he was beset by some fellows from London who followed him a far as Lichfield but by the spirited behaviour of his people he was prevented being robbed. In the town lives a Mr Dumbell who carries on a large smelting work. Part of the ore he uses is brought from 54r [5] the mine at Parys Mountain in Anglesey. There are also some flint glass houses near this town. From Warrington we travelled on the road to Liverpool about six miles and then turning to the right and going about five miles further came to Mr Mackay’s at Ravenhead. The country we passed through this morning is enclosed and fully inhabited, the land rich and fertile, and said to let at £3 & 4 per acre. Mr Mackay’s house at Ravenhead is situated on a considerable eminence fitted up in the cottage style and commanding a very extensive and variegated prospect of a large valley, ornamented with a number of large objects appropriated to the several works situated on his estate which with the canal running through it and the boats sailing thereon exhibit a scene of great beauty and entertainment. Adjoining to this house is a wood through which we walked to a rail road that led us to the copper smelting works belonging to the Parys Mountain Company. 55v [6] There are already erected 24 reverberatory furnaces standing opposite each other 12 in each row. Between these a canal is digging communicating with the canal that leads to Liverpool, by which the ore is brought from Wales. Each of these furnaces consumes nearly one ton of coals per day, of 3,000 pounds weight to the ton, which is canal weight. And 2.5 ton of coals make about 1 ton of copper from the calcined ore, the ore precipitated by means of iron requiring much less. I was favoured by Mr Shore the ingenious agent at these works with several curious samples of the products. On this land the property of Mr Mackay is erected the large plate glass work belonging to the company established by Act of Parliament. I had long been promised a sight of it and this afternoon was admitted to it. It is a stupendous building with a variety of furnaces for making the glass, annealing it, calcining the fritt [? perhaps flint?], etc etc. As I thought 55r [7] there appeared some little fears lest my enquiries might tend to the discovery of what might be wished to be concealed [SECRECY]. I declined asking many questions, but was informed that the plates are actually cast on the brass plate made by Mr Inglish (that of Mr Wilkinson which cost £1,200) [seems a mistaken ) placement] having been broke by the carelessness and unskilfulness of some person belonging to the works, that the metal is taken out of the pots in which it is made by ladles put into large crucibles and from them poured on the brass plate, a brass roller supported at each end running over the metal and this spreading it of an equal thickness. These crucibles are carried by a pair of iron forceps held horizontally by a number of men and when the plate is rolled it is conveyed into the annealing furnaces and left to cool gradually. The furnaces differ much from those used at any of our glass houses but as far as could be judged of by the slight inspection I made do not appear better than ours and as no one is on any pretence 56v [8] admitted to be present at the casting I was not much entertained here, though it must be owned the whole of the works contained within the walls and which consists of the glass house properly called, the house for the principal agent and the use of the company with coach houses, stables etc for their accommodation, the windmills for grinding the materials used in the composition, the number of houses for the dwelling of the workmen etc are on a magnificent and noble [illeg] and appear to have been contrived by a person of knowledge and ability. Yet sorry am I to say the whole already carries the face of decline in the work and injury to the proprietors. Mr Mackay’s land which extends about two miles in length abounds with various minerals, the chief of which is coal, of which he has great abundance and of excellent kinds, iron stone, variety of clays, 56r [9] and stones, one of them a white free stone of great beauty of which I procured two specimens. Of this kind some chimney pieces in his house are made and are very handsome and elegant. In the evening the flames issuing from the chimneys of the smelting houses which are situated about a mile from the dwelling house made a very brilliant appearance especially when viewed by a telescope, as did also some belonging to another smelting company situated at a much larger distance from us.” Sat July 1: “We this morning left Ravenhead and returned with Mr Mackay’s horses to Warrington. Near this town is a very handsome house called Bank Hall belonging to Mr Patton. Leaving Warrington we travelled by the side of the beautiful River Mersey going once under the canal to Frodsham Bridge over the Weaver. Near this place is a salt work and here the greatest part of the famous cheese of this country is shipped for London etc. 57v [10] We had hard rains this afternoon. I now learnt that the copper account between proprietors of the great mine in Anglesey and the copper companies is settled quarterly and with Mr Dumbell for the last three months amounted to £6,000. We got this evening to Chester. The Rows as they are called are passages up a considerable number of steep steps and are covered over with rooms. They serve for people to walk along and goods are exposed to sale between them and the front which overlooks the street. But the shops are so darkened by them as to appear little better than dungeons and the houses in general seemed but indifferent. We slept at Chester this night” Sun July 2nd: “Leaving Chester, we passed over some open land having the large Chester Navigation on our right. This is a capital work whereby the sea has been confined within bounds and a great deal of country laid 57r [11] dry which formerly was much subject to inundations. In about half an hour we passed a stone on the left which serves to mark the entrance into Wales. The land here is fine. Hawarden is the next town, a small place near which are some ruins and a bridge over the road, the River Dee on our right hand from hence among woods and hills we came to Northop, near which is an house belonging to Lord Grosvenor where he formerly kept his running horses. In this neighbourhood are many lead mines, but not so much worked as formerly. Great quantities of Lapis Calaminaris [calamine] are found here. We soon reached Holywell a handsome good town celebrated for the great spring called St Winifred’s Well; we took a view of this spring said to be the largest in Great Britain and to discharge 100 tons per minute. A church is adjoining to the spring and 58v [12] immediately over it is built a kind of gothic chapel and the columns are ornamented by hanging upon them the crutches and biers of those persons who having been afflicted with lameness and disorders had applied here and found relief. The water from the spring does not run more than 1.5 mile before it is discharged into the arm of the sea. Yet in that short space not fewer than 12 mills are turned by it, some with overshot others with undershot wheels. These mills are employed for grinding corn, making paper, carding and spinning cotton, etc and among them is a work for making brass to which we went and collected some specimens of Lapis Calaminaris which being found in the lead mines in the neighbourhood had considerable quantities of lead or mixed with it which they endeavour to separate before they use it for converting copper into brass, especially for what is called [WATER SHORTAGE + WATER-POWERED COTTON] 59 [13] plate brass but are not so cautious about their common brass and this metal is made by melting copper when mixed with the lapis in large crucibles containing about 3/4 of an hundred each. Perhaps the faults found with English brass may have their foundation in some lead being mixed with the composition. One most excellent place for erecting an overshot wheel is not occupied and the Anglesea [Anglesey] Company have thoughts of taking it and erecting a flatting and battering mill upon it for their own use. Leaving Holywell we pursued our journey over a large common having on our left some high land called Teagan Mountain and passed over some high hills overlooking the Vale of Cluen the finest valley in the Principality, being 16 miles long by 10 wide. On our road this morning we met (by appointment) Mr Williams’s eldest daughter who accompanied us in the chaise during the remainder of our journey. We changed horses, having 60v [14] four during these two stages and came by a tolerable good road through the city of St Asaph to Abergilli [Abergele]. At a little distance from hence we came in sight of the large mountain Penmanros. We then descended a steep hill having Conwy Castle before us. At length we reached the ferry. The tide was coming in and a small boat soon conveyed us to Conwy town, a larger boat being sent to fetch the chaise. The town of Conwy is old and meanly built of [illeg] stone with which this country abounds. The castle is a magnificent ruin and when viewed from the sea forms a most picturesque object having a large hill covered with wood behind it and some mountains rising still above the wood to form a background to the view. Having left Conwy we soon came to what may be properly called the Mountainous Country. The first mountain of consequence over which we 60r [15] passed is Penmanros [likely Penmaen-Rhos, earlier on the road between Abergele and Conwy]. The road here is very steep but far from being so very dangerous as I expected to meet with it. Formerly the road was continued over the mountain Penmanbach [Penmaenbach] but is now tamed and the mountain of that name is between the road and the sea. But the part through which the passage is cut is rocky and rude beyond conception, masses of stone piled on each other seeming to reach the sky and then again forming a large hollow cavity many score feet below the level of the road. A scene of magnificence and grandeur presents itself such as I had never before met with and which I beheld with high pleasure from recollecting that the road is so well finished and the side next the precipice so effectually secured by a strong stone wall breast high that all danger is obviated and the passage through this country formerly so tremendous is rendered safe and easy. It was not long before we came to another celebrated mountain Penmanmaur [Penmaenmawr] 61v [16] over this mountain the road also is altered so that what is said to have formerly been a tremendous and dreadful journey is now one of the most delightful and entertaining passages by which it is possible to travel. For the sea being close on the right hand with the isle of Anglesey bounding the view there is formed a most beautiful prospect of land and water while the stupendous rocks towering as it were to the heavens on the left hand present to the eyes of the traveller a scene magnificent beyond conception and the pleasure of beholding these amazing works of nature, the sea and the mountains, is enhanced by the mind of the beholder being fully at ease, all danger being avoided by a strong stone wall running along the road on that side next the sea and another on that side next the slope of the mountain to prevent any mischief from stones rolling down. Thus fearless of danger the traveller now views in security 61r [17] those immense objects which were formerly considered with terror. For as the old road over this mountain was many yards higher up than the new one and was not defended by a wall it is easy to imagine that passengers would be greatly alarmed at the dreadful appearance the sea made at the foot of the precipice. But not all such ideas vanish and the whole road forms a most beautiful terrace over which the traveller passes in perfect security. Having said thus much I cannot refrain a small tribute to the gentlemen of this country who with a spirit and taste which not only does them honour at present but will remain for ages a proof of their attention to the good of their country have carried on these great works to such perfection and with so much judgement as leaves little for posterity to add to it, other than to admire their wisdom in planning, and their perseverance in executing what will render this part of Great Britain safe and commodious for the 62v [18] traveller and thus increasing the intercourse between one part of the island and another promote that union and harmony by which only nations are civilised and individuals really benefited. But to return, from Penmaenmawr through Bangor we soon came to the ferry by which passengers go over to the Isle of Anglesey. Here we were stopped a considerable time by the ferrymen who were on the Anglesey side not coming over when called and when they did come bringing only a small boat so that when we got to the island it was necessary to send a large boat for the chaise. This delayed us so long that it was necessary to sleep here which we did this night” Monday 3 July: 62r [19] “This morning we continued our journey towards Llanidan the house of Mr Williams situated nine miles from the ferry. The roads in this part of the Isle of Anglesey are good though made across the country and without turnpike. The country is pleasantly diversified. The channel which divides this island from Caernarvonshire being on our left and many romantic hills on the right. This channel in this country is called, though certainly improperly, the River Menai. Being arrived at Llanidan we were received with much pleasure by the family. The situation of this house is delightful, the land lying in gentle declivity to the channel which is here about half a mile wide, and on the other side of the water the land again rises in Caernarvonshire till the high mountains 63v [20] of that county terminating the prospect and Snowdon the highest of them appearing above the rest nearly opposite Mr Williams’s house. Towards the ferry to the north are two or three houses dispersed among trees and southward the town of Caernarvon with its ancient castle presents itself to view, and the land between the house and water being formed into a lawn of about twenty acres with some clumps of large trees interspersed thereon a more beautiful and pleasing scene can hardly be met with and as the tides flow and ebb here six hours each the continual passing of vessels up and down renders the whole perfectly entertaining. The kitchen garden is well laid out and in flourishing condition and the house which is rough casted makes a very neat and agreeable appearance. The fields about the house are also well cultivated, and the stables were filled with horses insomuch that on my enquiring how many he had 63r [21] his answer was he could not say within ten. This evening the Reverend Mr [Edward ] Hughes proprietor of that part of the mine in Parys Mountain in which Mr W. is concerned came hither.” Tuesday 4 July: “Mr Hughes, Mr Williams and myself rode this morning to Baron Hill the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley. In our way we took the opportunity of seeing the makers of kelp at work. A great quantity of this salt is made round this island but what is manufactured here is not so good as what is made in Ireland. The process is performed as follows. A quantity of seaweed called here tang is collected and laid on the rocks to dry. Some stones are then ranged in the manner of two walls about four feet distant from each other and about 12 feet in length with walls at each end thus forming an oblong which is again divided by 64v [22] ![[Pasted image 20231221125249.png]] walls of the same kind into four parts, each part about 2.5 feet wide and 3 feet long in the clear, and about 12 inches deep. They choose for their work a windy day, and laying the dried tang on the walls set fire to it. It burns very rapidly and when it is sufficiently burnt, the quantity contained between any two of the cross walls is beat down and kept continuously stirring very briskly by three men with iron rakes till it becomes of a state nearly as liquid as honey. It is then gathered to one side of the cavity and suffered to cool. When cold is taken out and covered with fresh weed to preserve it from rain. In this state it is sold for 45s per ton. We were told the Irish use iron vessels for making it in and by that means any dirt is prevented 64r [23] mixing with it. Whether that is the only reason of its superior quality or whether the plant used there is better than here I know not but there is great difference in their values. Leaving these people to their employment we set forward over some very rocky ground and close to the sea near which we travelled some miles in our way to Beaumaris just as we entered the town we were met by Sir Hugh Williams a gentleman of property in this country, Member of Parliament for Beaumaris and who married the mother of the present Lord Bulkeley. Though we were engaged to return to Llanidan to dinner he insisted on our taking some refreshment with him and we sat down to a very elegant cold collation, and he pouring out a glass of liquour desired me to taste it. I hardly knew what it was but 65v [24] believed it some kind of malt liquor. Yet being somewhat divided in my opinion about it he at length told me it was beer brewed at the birth of Lord Bulkeley and now 27 years old. I drank only half a glass of it yet thought my head affected by it. It was of a disagreeable colour (though fine[? illeg]) and taste and immoderately strong. This is mentioned as it is the only instance of my tasting malt liquor during the journey. Sir Hugh showed me a fine paper nautilus he formerly purchased on the coast of Barbary and paid there £5 10s for it. Hearing he had been in the service in the Mediterranean I inquired whether he remembered Mr S. More [his cousin]. He did perfectly well and rejoiced much to meet with one of his relations. 65r [25] We now proceeded through Beaumaris town to Baron Hill. The town though the capital of the island is seemingly very poor, the houses and the inhabitants make a very mean appearance. Yet the castle one of those founded by Edward 1st to awe the hardy Welshmen is a fine ruin and the situation of the town very fine having the sea close to it and the mountains of Caernarvonshire forming a magnificent background on the opposite shore. From hence we soon came to Baron Bill the seat of Lord Bulkeley. The house has been lately repaired and covered with stucco under the direction of Mr Wyatt, but the covering does not stand well that part especially exposed to the south west winds, which blow here 3/4 of the year and are attended with the most violent storms and rain, destroying 66v [26] and blackening the stucco and perhaps nothing of this kind unless mixed with oil will answer the purpose. The house is beautifully situated and encircled with woods except in the front where the land is formed into a fine lawn with the sea in front and the high mountains so often mentioned finishing the prospect. The rooms are large and lofty and may be thought higher in proportion than the rules of architecture may allow of but are pleasant and some of them of elegant shape, the large bow windows from which the country is viewed making them very lively and agreeable. The library is a good room seemingly well furnished principally with old books and the whole place appears capable of affording every enjoyment a 66r [27] rational mind can wish for. We returned from hence to Llanidan and got there about 5 o’clock, in our way passing through a rough country filled with rocks and stones and affording little to amuse except the wonderful effects of time in laying bare and destroying such masses of hard and indispolible [??] matter as seems impenetrable to anything but natural agents. Not satisfied with [our] journey this morning we in the evening visited a farm occupied by Mr Williams two or three miles from his house. Here he keeps a considerable quantity of cattle grazing and had at this time a most enormous bull-stag, I think the largest beast I ever saw, and many other kine all of them in size superior to the native cattle of the island. Great quantity of 67v [28] orchis of various species grow on this farm as indeed they do all over the country. And as he had ploughed up a large quantity of fresh land and secured a great number of acres with excellent hedges he had some fields of fine corn which appeared the more beautiful from comparing them with the dreary wastes over which we had travelled to observe them. It was near ten when we returned to Llanidan.” 67r [29] Wed 5 July “This morning it rained violently and about 11 o’clock two gentlemen of the name of Dawes arrived here from London in order to examine the mine, the one of them the son the other brother of the gentleman of that name who is joint proprietor with Mr Hughes and Mr Williams. It may not be amiss here to mention how Mr Hughes became possessed of this great property which he did in right of the Lady he married. Mr Hughes a worthy good natured young man was a curate in the Isle of Anglesea and married a lady of the name of Lewis whose friends were much offended at the match. Some time after the marriage (about 14 years ago) it was discovered that Parys Mountain contained a mine of copper ore, apparently of great value and Sir Nicholas Bailey [Nicholas Bayly] who considered 68v [30] the mountain as his sole property let the mine to a copper company, he receiving 1/8th of the ore raised as a rent for the same. When it was found that this work was advantageous Mr Hughes considered that his lady was by right entitled to one half of a moiety of the mountain, and after a considerable time spent in law it was so decreed in Chancery. But in order to avoid any further dispute a lease of the other half of the same moiety was granted to Mr Dawes by the proprietor Sir N. Bayly and the present Company was formed who pay to Sr N. about £4,000 per annum rent for his share of the moiety. To return to the journey the clouds this day very much obscured the mountains notwithstanding which the two Mr Ds were so struck with the beauty of the situation that we all 68r [31] walked to the sea beach, examined the various productions there, made some observations on the River Menai and the adjoining country and returned home well satisfied with each other. This day I took notice of a large plant of the single white poppy much more luxuriant in its growth than any I had before observed. It grew in Mr Williams’s garden and on enquiring of the gardener was informed it was self sown last year, for two or three plants of the same kind having grown there, some of the seed had scattered and produced this plant which the gardener confessed was much larger than any of the parent plants had been.” Thurs 6 July: “Our whole company, consisting of Mr Hughes, Mr Williams, two Mr Dawes, a son of Mr Williams and myself with a large train of horses and servants set out this morning for Parys Mountain, Mr T D, Master W and myself in Mr Dawes’s chaise 69v [32] and the rest of the party on horseback. We soon came to a common on an hill from whence the mountains in Caernarvonshire appeared beautiful beyond conception for the day being clear Snowdon was seen towering above the rest and which from the fleeting clouds which hovered round his top almost the whole time of my residence in the island seldom happened. I could not avoid remarking the neatness with which the ricks of corn and hay are thatched in this country. They use for the purpose a very thin covering of straw but by means of a kind of rope made of straw well twisted and not thicker than my thumb the thatch is kept tight and the rain prevented injuring the rick. We soon came to Col.Peac[illeg] an Irish gentleman’s seat where very considerable improvements are making. Near this on the right hand is Sir Nicholas Bayly’s (Plaas Newey [Plas Newydd]) where 69r [33] there are many fine woods and on the left some plantations belonging to Mr Rowland the vicar of the parish. Presently after we joined the turnpike road which leads to Holyhead we began now to enter on a country very different from what we had left, for as about Llanidan the country abounded with woods and green fields, here hardly a tree is to be seen and the bare rocks afford the traveller a dreary prospect. After continuing our journey a few miles on the turnpike road we turned on our right hand intending to visit Mr Panton at Plas Gwyn, but had not gone far before we met the two young Mr Pantons [likely Paul Panton junior, aged 22, who at the time was training at Lincoln’s Inn, and Jones Panton aged 19. Two younger brothers by a second marriage, Thomas and Bulkeley, were at the time under 10] on the road, and as this visit was on my account and I was not personally known to Mr P Senior [antiquary and lead and coal mine owner Paul Panton 1727-97] we omitted stopping at Plas Gwyn which however as we passed by it appeared a very handsome seat, the land much improved and ornamented with some plantations of trees, etc. 70v [34] Nearly opposited Plas Gwyn is a house called Tytry belonging to an agreeable lady of the name of Williams. The road here is very steep and rocky, but from it is a fine view of the sea, for although the island is more than twenty miles across yet from the number of inlets it is said there is no house on it more than four miles from high watermark. In a little time we came to some sands at the head of a bay. It was proposed to cross these sands in the chaise but the tide was not sufficiently gone of to admit the chaise to pass with safety. We therefore who had rode in it set out on foot to walk over them, but those of the party who had come on horseback being got to their journey’s end, sent the horses back for us and we rode to Porthllongdy where Mr Hughes lives. The house is small but situated at the head of a bay and commands a fine view of the sea and hilly country. 70r [35] Here we dined, Mr Hughes not being at home. In the afternoon we proceeded on our journey and about two miles from Porthllongdy at a place called Pant y Saer we observed a hill of a singularly circular form … [etc etc on some local antiquities] … On this hill grew a dwarf sort of dog rose, and on the rocks several kinds of moss and lichens all which are used by the common people for dyeing their garments. … 71v [36] Having again descended the hill we proceeded on our journey over many large commons, through a barren country by bad and very stony roads to a very mean and poor town called Llanarchymadd [Llanerch-y-medd]. Here a market is held and the goods are exposed to sale on some rows of large stones laid on the road. Notwithstanding the appearance of poverty at this place we were informed that at the fairs for cattle held here great business is transacted. But when we were there the whole place seemed a scene of idleness and misery, the people staring at the carriage as if they had hardly ever seen one before. We now soon got to Parys Mountain over part of which we were to pass, the road exceeding bad and stony but in some places people were employed in mending it. However at length we arrived safe at a village called Amlwch. Here the Company (called Parys Mountain Company) have built an house which they call Parys Lodge. The gardens are laying out in an excellent manner, the whole furniture very elegant and the supper was served up in a style which the appearance of the county [page torn] gave little reason to expect.” 71r [37] Friday 7 July: “Our first business this morning was to visit the port from whence the ore is shipped that is brought from the Parys Mountain mine. This port which is formed by a chasm in the mountains which bound the coast was before the discovery of the mine only employed in bringing in goods by smugglers from the Isle of Man. But since the mine has been worked vessels from 40 to 80 or 100 tons burden are continually loading here with ore, sulphur, etc and large and commodious wharfs have been built for the purpose of carrying on that business. Here we saw large quantities of the ore, some in its calcined and some in its raw state carrying away to the Company’s works at Ravenhead & Swansea, and also ore belonging to the Warrington Company shipping for them. Several carts loaded with brimstone were also carrying away and in short the whole spot wore an appearance of industry and trade which the face of the neighbouring country through which we 72v [38] had travelled the preceding day gave us little reason to expect. Having surveyed this scene of employment we returned to the lodge to breakfast which being finished we proceeded to visit the mine. Our way to it was by a new road which is almost made from Amlwch to the mine about two miles in length made of excellent materials at the expence of Mr Hughes’s Company and solely for their use. On the mountain were 70 kilns for burning the ore, some of them open, in these the sulphur is dissipated in the air, others closed with an intent of collecting the brimstone for use. A person of the name of Saunderson [Matthew Sanderson, patent 1203 1778 and 1243 1780] has obtained a patent for extracting sulphur from this ore, but if he expects advantage from it he should employ somebody to make his kilns who understood the business for at present they are made about 100 feet long, the ore occupying about 60 feet in length and 72r [39] the other 40 being an arch in which part of the sulphur is caught in the form of flowers. This arch is about 5 feet in height and has an opening at the end through which the flowers of sulphur were flying off at a great rate and it is the general opinion that the work as now conducted is no advantage to the proprietor. All the ore belonging to Mr Hughes is burnt in open kilns and the sulphur lost. These kilns are of such magnitude as to hold two thousand tons of the ore and are about four months burning before the mineral is sufficiently calcined. It is necessary to keep on the windward side of these kilns for the fumes arising from them are very disagreeable and destroy all vegetables for a considerable distance around them. I could not help taking notice of a woman employed in building one of these kilns who was working in the habit of a man and had always 73v [40] worn the same dress from her childhood. [EARLY TRANSVESTITE!] The ore when calcined is beat into small pieces by a kind of hammers. This is called buckering [or buckening?] the ore and performed by men, women and children. It is then beat and stirred about in water, and the liquor which runs from it, and is of a deep red colour from the mixture of the red parts of the ore mixed with it, let into pits where the red powder subsides and is called slush (apparently a good material for painters), the clear liquor which swims above the powder and is of a green colour being drawn into other pits and a quantity of iron put into it. The liquor begins immediately to act on and dissolve the iron letting the copper fix itself thereto, and the pieces of iron being stirred about the copper is rubbed off them and falls to the bottom of the pit either in flakes when it is called shell copper, or in powder which is called iron [illeg - what is it called??] 73r [41] On the mountain is a great number of these pits with iron in them, through which the liquor runs, that if the separation of the copper has not taken place in one pit, it may be exposed to fresh iron till the whole of the copper is collected, and the liquor which at first was a solution of copper becomes a solution of iron and is then suffered to run away. After we had passed a range of these pits, we soon got to that part of the mountain which may properly be called the Mine. This differs from any mine I had ever seen or perhaps in anywhere else to be found for the ore here instead of being met with in veins is collected into one great mass, so that it is dug in quarries and brought out in carts without any shafts being sunk as is usual in other mines for bringing the ore to grass. The workmen by digging out the ore hollow the rock and form 74v [42] large caverns therein and to support the roofs have columns of the ore standing which form a most grand and romantic appearance. Of these caverns four or five remained perhaps about forty feet high and of a very considerable capacity and the front of the range have the forementioned columns of yellow ore cut in many jagged forms standing in a circular line. The whole seemed like the ruins of some magnificent building whose pillars had been of massy brass. Notwithstanding the grandeur of the appearance of the mine at the time I visited it, yet it had made a much more beautiful sight a little time before, for a few days previous to my being there a considerable portion of the columns had fallen down (owing to the miners’ carelessness in cutting them [illeg] away) and brought down with them a very large mass of copper ore, shale, lead and earth by which those cavities they had served to support were filled up. 74r [43] Many of the men were now employed in removing the masses of ore that had fallen and one large piece weighing by computation about two tons was separated from the rest while we were there. Over the mass of copper ore which forms the mine lie beds of shale (some of which is beautifully variegated with spots of blue vellundie [???]) a thick stratum of lead ore of a yellow colour resembling clay, and on the top a soil on which the green sward grows. In some places the lead ore is wanting and its place supplied by a barren clay and a rock over the whole. We collected many specimens of the several productions of this curious mountain and on our return to the Lodge to dinner found the two your Mr Pantons were got there before us, and as they stayed till the evening advanced we had only time to go down to the port after they had left us.” 75v [44] Saturday 8 July: Again visits the mine: “it has been matter of dispute whence the name Paris is derived, some imagining it ought to be Parry’s Mountain as if it had formerly belonged to one of that name whilst others suppose it Prais Mountain, prais signifying brass in the language of this country and as the ore found here resembles brass in appearance they suppose the latter to be the proper derivation. I measured one kiln and found it to be ten yards wide and sixty three long and the ore was piled up in it about 3 yards high. These kilns are formed of stone walls and at the distance of about ten feet from each other are holes or flues into which a small quantity of coals or furze is put which being fired the ore in the kiln from the great quantity of sulphur it contains takes fire and burns some with great fury and in about four months 75r [45] a kiln of the above size is sufficiently calcined. The outer part of the ore when thus calcined is of a dark red colour and the nodules when broken are found within of a brass like appearance more bright than the ore when it is put in the kiln. This has given rise to an opinion that the metallic part of the ore is by the action of the fire in burning driven into the middle of the ore and there concentrated. Whether this is the fact has not yet been fully ascertained but it is certain a large proportion of the metal is lost in some part of the process and it may be worth enqury whether it is not dissipated in the calcination. The ore when calcined is washed in water which carries off a considerable portion of the red earth called slush and the ore thus cleansed is delivered to the people who 76v [46] break it in small pieces which is called buckering the ore and it is then fit to be sent to the smelter. Some ore from this mine is sold to the Copper Company in its raw state and mixed by them with other ores to promote their fusion. Its value when raw is from £3 to 5 per ton. Near the heaps of calcined ore considerable quantities of blue vitriol are formed, but it has hitherto been considered of no value for as by degrees it is dissolved by rains and conveyed into the pits the iron there separates the copper from it and it is not lost. The large mass of copper ore which was mentioned yesterday as having fallen when the pillars gave up was this day broke to pieces, to do which the miners made an hole in it by a borer about 20 inches deep and 3/4 of an inch in diameter. They next introduced into this hole an iron wire 1/4 of an inch diameter and rammed in a quantity of gunpowder which was driven tight down by filling the upper part of the hole with stones and 76r [47] having rammed the whole quite tight the iron wire was drawn out. A clean straw was next filled with gunpowder and introduced into the hole left by the wire, a piece of match rope being then placed over the straw and notice given for all persons to withdraw. The match was fired and when it was burnt out the straw filled with powder set fire to the remainder in the cavity and the whole mass was blown to pieces with so violent an explosion as to drive a considerable piece up to the top of the hill 40 or 50 feet above the place where the ore lay. They are continually blowing up parts of the mine and I was informed that at this work only 10 or 12 tons of gunpowder are annually used for this purpose. This day I made an assay of the lead ore which lies over the copper by melting two ounces of it with [looks like 2 oz?] of kelp and a little salt with an iron nail added to it. This yielded a good produce and as kelp was here very cheap may turn to some advantage. [FUEL EXPERIMENTATION?] 77v [48] “It should have been mentioned that this morning Mrs Hughes and her eldest daughter who were on a visit with a relation in this neighbourhood, with two daughters of Mr Panton breakfasted with us and came to visit the mine. They also dined at Parys Lodge and as it was market day, great numbers of people were assembled together. Meat I thought not reasonable mutton 4d per pound. Veal and kid 2.5d, and neither of them excelling in their kind, but chickens were very cheap 2d and 2.5 each fit for the spit, and fish was plentiful. The whole village of Amlwch consisted a few years since of only six houses but is now (owing to the number of people employed in the mine) grown a considerable town which by the people here is considered as the completion of a prophesy, it being their opinion that formerly it was foretold that a street should be built from Tre Da a house on an hill to the port which is about a mile in length 77r [49] and as matters now go on it does not seem unlikely to take place. In the evening when the ladies had left us it was proposed to walk to a village called Llan Ellian [Llaneilian] situated in a retired part of the island and celebrated for a church much resorted to by the credulous people on account of some marvellous works said to be performed there, the chief of which is that if any person can get into a small kind of cupboard which is preserved in a small chapel and turn round in it and come out again something fortunate will happen to them and particularly any woman performing that ceremony will soon be pregnant after it. These whyms [whims?] have one good effect for the money collected from the people is applied to the keeping the church in repair, and indeed the appearance of it is very decent, the inside being kept clean and the roof covered with lead. Near the church porch covered over with some bushes of elder is a square place formed of stone walls about 4 feet square 78v [50] In it are many human skulls and other bones but I could not learn where they were brought from. Within the porch there still remains the stone vessel in which formerly the holy water was kept with which persons entering the church sprinkles themselves and within the church are pictures of the twelve Apostles, modern and not very ill executed, as also a portrait of a thin worn out man which we were told represents St Eilian to whom the church is dedicated. The east window has been ornamented with a picture in stained glass of the crucifix but it is now much injured. The Reverend Mr Vincent holds the living. From the top of the church we had a fine view of the sea with the Isle of Man and the coast of Cumberland at a distance. In our way hither the country was very rocky and many goats were feeding on the hills, but the valley were fine 78r [51] the sea on one hand and the verdure of the valleys on the other while we climbed over the rocky paths rendered many parts of the journey very entertaining. Although the people here seemed very poor yet there is a spirit among them which prevents their accepting charity for as we were walking this afternoon a woman passed us apparently in a distressed and sickly condition and Mr Dawes offered her some money which she refused and on Mr Hughes telling her in Welsh to take it. What should I take it for? said she. What have I done to deserve it? and actually refused it. In this country we saw abundance of children and many of them handsome but we were particularly struck with one in this village, a girl of about 7 years old who we all thought for symmetry in person, beauty of features, and smartness and civility in her answers to us, exceeded everything we had met with.” 79v [52] etc etc on the church inscriptions Close to the church “considerable quantities of lichen and moss growing. I took the opportunity of enquiring of the people who showed the church whether they made use of these for dyeing as I had been informed they did, and was told they did and that most of their habits were dyed by the women with them. The colour they produce is usually brown but they knew the means of extracting a red from the lichens by urine in the manner of maching archell from them for which Mr Davy had a patent.” 79r [53] Sunday 9 July: “The church living of this parish Amlwch is said to produce £500 per annum and is held in commendam by the Bishop of Bangor who pays his curate £10 a year and each of the Copper Companies allowing him £10 with surplice fees and other advantages. He is tolerably provided for but the church itself although its outward appearance is far from despicable yet the inside of it is so dirty and nasty and out of repair that notwithstanding the Right Reverend Rector may admit its being good enough for the service of God to be performed in yet I am sure he would not permit the stables his horses stand in to be kept in such a condition. The service this morning was performed in Welsh and notwithstanding the filthiness of the place there was a large congregation and the women [presumably the ladies of the party?] stood (for there are hardly any seats for them) separate from the men, not understanding the language and highly disgusted with the place. We soon left the church, and walked towards the mine. In our way we met Mr Roos [Rees?] manager for the Warrington Company belonging to Mr Roe. 80v [54] He showed us his house lately built by him situated on the side of the mountain and though not finished in a style to recommend the architect commands a pleasant view of the country. He accompanied us to the mine and informed us that the dividends of the Warrington Company amounted last year to £14,836. At the mine we collected many specimens and particularly some curious ones of the ore melted in the kilns with vitriolic efflorescences. In our return we took occasion to examine some old works called here Roman Works and supposed to have been performed by the Romans. We passed over some turvery or places where turves [TURF/PEAT] are cut for fuel, and saw some bricks making with bad clay full of stones. In the afternoon it was proposed to visit the church again when the service was performed in English. The congregation was much smaller than in the morning and the curate was either so incapable of reading or so inattentive to his duty that it was some time before I could be sure he was reading a language I was 80r [55] acquainted with, and no sooner was his duty (if his performance of the service can properly be called duty) ended than without taking notice of Mr Hughes or any one else he stalked out of the church in a great and very indecent hurry probably that he might regale himself with some curru. Some days before this I had walked into the church and found a poor decrepit man teaching a few boys to read, but such was their manner of pronouncing their words that I concluded it was Welsh though afterwards learnt it was meant for English.” Monday 10 July: “This morning we were busily employed in packing up the several specimens of ores, etc which we had collected all which were directed to Mr Davis at Horseley down and before noon the two Mr Dawes left us to go to Liverpool and return to London. As those gentlemen had by their polite and genteel conduct endeared themselves to all here so their parting from us was matter of much concern to those that remained behind. 81v [56] As it was known that a considerable quantity of copper is lost during the preparation of the ore and as there was reason to believe some part of it might be still in the red earth called slush, I desired an assay might be made of some of that matter which was accordingly done. It was found to contain a small proportion of both lead and copper but not worth the trouble and expence of extracting. Mr Hughes and myself rode this morning to a farm he holds about five miles from Ablwch. We had not advanced a mile before he showed me a sand pit the only one in this neighbourhood and which will prove of considerable use to him. [SAND FOR AGR?] We had a tolerable good road though sometimes very steep, and many romantic views of the country. At length we got to what may be called another mine, a large marl pit, the marl of a white colour and lying immediately under a rock of limestone. From hence we crossed some fields to a piece of land encircled on all sides by high hills except a small 81r [57] opening on the west to the sea. This land is now draining by cuts made through it which deliver the water to the beach and when the improvement is completed it is supposed it will afford as complete a pasture for breeding horses and cattle as can be wished for. Having walked over the beach and collected some veined stones many of which were scattered there and seen a strong chalybeate spring [a red ferruginous spring] issuing from the rock we again ascended the hills and rode over some large commons in which many cattle were grazing and large rocks of white quartz were lying to another hill commanding a view of the sea, from whence we distinctly saw the Isle of Man, the Skerries and those rocks called the Mice. Here is a cave entering the rocks many fathom above the sea and is supposed to have been a mine formerly worked for copper. The country here 82v [58] bears a great resemblance to some of the desert parts of Cornwall and the likeness was increased by observing a number of that kind of red legged daw called Cornish chough hovering about the rocks which bird has been supposed peculiar to the county from whence it is named.” Tues 11 July: “This morning Mr Williams left us to go to Beaumaris to attend at the Sessions in his capacity of a Justice of the Peace, and as I intended to return to Llanidan in the afternoon Mr Hughes and myself walked over the rocks near the port during the forenoon. A great variety of plants grown on these rocks but the two principal used in medicine are tormentil and centaury which are here found in abundance and as agues are very vile [?] here I have advised a mixture of these two plants to be tried as a succedaneum for the bark. 82r [59] We saw several small lizards running among the grass but they were so nimble we could not take any of them. On some parts of these rocky hills where a natural soil is found improvements are beginning to take place, and these parts are found when manured with sea sand to produce good crops particularly of barley. Many instances I saw this day. The sand for this purpose costs 5s per hundred bags, each bag weighing 1cwt. I cannot avoid taking notice of one dish we had this day at dinner though I had seen such an one at table some days before. It was a dish of trout not fewer than three dozen. They were not much larger than gudgeons and fried like them and it is only spoke of to prove the great quantity of that kind of fish produced in the rivulets of this island.” 83v [60] After dinner I took leave of Mr Hughes and his family at Parys Lodge and proceeded in Mr Williams’s chaise to Llanidan. We passed over a very rocky and barren country over part of Parys mountain and through a large farm in the occupation of the Company to Llanarchymadd [Llanerchy-y-medd], and having gone through this town my journey lay through a very rocky and to appearance barren country to Gwyndu a house situated on the Great Road at equal distance from Bangor ferry and Holyhead 12.5 miles from each. Here I stopped to bait the horses and myself. In the way hither I noticed a considerable number of black cattle but yet when it is considered that 10 or 12,000 head of such cattle are every years sent out of this island into England I must confess I can form no judgement where they can be obtained. Many white goats I also saw on my way hither 83r [61] As the road from Gwyndu to Llanidan is very hilly, many beautiful appearances presented themselves among the mountains in Caernarvonshire for as many clouds were fleeting round their tops which continually varied the shapes of them so the sun shining on other spots and into the hollows between them afforded a variety and beauty of scenery which words cannot express. The people in this country still continue the use of Drag Cars which is best described by supposing a chair dragged along a horse being fixed to the back of it, and the load laid on the seat. If one may judge by the number of plantations of potatoes everywhere to be seen on this island it may be believed that root furnishes great part of the food of the inhabitants. … [etc on viewing some druidical antiquities] … 84r [63] Wed 12 July: “This day I proposed leaving the Isle of Anglesey and in order to vary the scene hinted that it would be agreeable to go to the ferry by water. Accordingly Mr Williams ordered his boat to be got ready, and about twelve at noon the tide being fair I took leave of agreeable and hospitable family and embarked for the ferry. We sailed some way but the wind being against us the men took to their oars and in about three hours we arrived at our destined port. In our way we passed by the lands of Sir N. Bayly whose house resembles one of the ancient castles and being finely situated among woods which overhand the water and commanding views of the sea 85v [64] and the mountains on the opposite shore can hardly be excelled in beauty. Not far from hence is a house just built by one Mr Lewis in a fine but open situation. Our voyage proceeded but slowly till we came to some rocks which lie in the middle of the channel by which the water runs rapidly and these rocks are called the Swellys. This soon brought us to the ferry. During this voyage the boatman entertained me with some of his country stories and among the rest with a prophesy said to be made many hundred years since that Parys Mountain would hereafter be found six times more valuable than all the rest of Anglesey. He seemed to make rhyme of in Welsh and rejoiced that his master was likely to be benefited by the completion of it. 85r [65] Soon after my arrival at the ferry Mr Jones Panton and his sister, with Mrs Williams of Tyfry came hither in their way to Bangor whither they were going on a visit to the Bishop. Mrs W. was a lady of whom I had often heard during my stay on the island and who I wished much to see having been told that Mr. A Fordyce on a journey to Ireland had called on her and admired her as resembling Lady Margaret. Mrs W appears a lively agreeable woman though I think not so beautiful as Lady M but some chat passing between us on that subject she gave me a very obliging invitation to her house if I again made Anglesey in my way. About four o’clock the coach from Holyhead arrived in which I was to take my journey to Wrexham. The Company consisted of a tall fierce cockaded captain truly characteristic of his countrymen, a young man of genteel appearance, a tradesman from the north of Ireland, and a well dressed Irish woman on a visit 86v [66] to some friends in London. These with some boxes and bundles occupied the inside of the carriage while the top and the coach box served for vehicles to three of the lower class of Irish Roman Catholics who were going to the monastery at Douai in Flanders. No sooner had the captain who affected to lead the whole company been told that I was to have a seat in the coach than he began to remonstrate against any more passengers being admitted, but the landlord who I found more fit to deal with him than I was assuring me of a place I left them to eat their dinners while I regaled myself with some fish and mutton in another room and about six o’clock we crossed the ferry to the coach that was to convey us to Conwy, and the captain finding his blustering had no effect in preventing my 86r [67] having a seat among them soon began to be very sociable especially when he found that a horse was provided for one of the outside passengers. After some trouble and some swearing about the proper adjusting the luggage we set out for Conwy. On our way we judged it most proper to walk up one of the mountains on our road where being caught in a gentle shower of rain and the captain finding I could exert myself on occasion of difficulty or danger he became very polite and both he and the whole company behaved with the greatest civility towards me during the remainder of our journey. We did not reach Conwy till late but the lady having retired to bed we four men who had travelled within the coach supped together and spent the night very jocosely not parting till near one. At Conwy our accommodations very indifferent and landlord impertinent. 87v [68] Thurs 13 July: “We were this morning to cross Conwy ferry which is always attended with trouble and delay and has occasioned some persons to go by Oswestry and Llanrwst into this northern part of Wales. However at ten a good deal of bullying swearing and abuse at all which our captain was at least a match for the boat men we arrived on the other side of the river and again took our place in a coach which was ready there to meet us. Nothing can prevent a more beautiful prospect than the country about this ferry. The town of Conwy with the ruins of its ancient castle and walls, the hills most of them covered with wood and the large river opening to the sea afford a scene of magnificence and beauty seldom to be paralleled 87r [69] The country between Conwy ferry and St Asaph (the next stage) is very hilly and some of the hills very steep. And the Irishman who rode on horseback created in me a fit of laughter which lasted a considerable part of the journey. The case was this. In going up one of the hills he passed the coach and when we were arrived at the top the coachman unknown to him put the drag chain on one of the hind wheels to prevent any mischief. In going down the hill our descent was pretty rapid and we soon passed out horseman who then seeing the hind wheel did not turn round rides furiously up to the side of the coach where the captain was seated and bawled out Sir, Sir, the great wheel went over take the little wheel! the captain who hitherto had affected to look and behave as if nothing could alarm him 88v [70] showed very manifest signs of terror and cried out in a tone little short of his countryman’s Tell the Coachman! Tell the Coachman! I who thought I understood what the fellow said desired him to repeat the words, which he did so loud that both the coachman and myself heard him plainly and I told him it never was intended to do it. After this an incessant laughter took place among us partly at the simplicity of the fellow and partly at the fears the fierce captain had shown on the alarming occasion. We breakfasted at St Asaph where the cathedral is repairing and here my Irish companions taught me a new method of dressing eggs. They ordered a number of eggs to be put into a basin and poured as much boiling water on them from the tea kettle as covered them. 88r [71] When this water had stood about 5 minutes it was emptied out again and fresh poured on. When this had stood the same time the eggs were found sufficiently done and they eat them. [seemingly an Irish technique for boiling eggs] We were now to undertake a long stage it being no less than 30 miles from St Asaph to Wrexham and the same horses were to convey us the whole way. This circumstance furnished some more opportunity of altercation to the captain but it was apparent the story of the wheel had abated his ardour. Our passage now lay through the beautiful vale of Clwyd and it is hardly possible to imagine more pleasing scenes than those which here present themselves. The hills are covered with woods, the valleys filled with corn now nearly ripe, the meadows covered with cattle and sheep and a great number of good houses scattered about the country all conspire to render this vale superlatively charming. 89v [72] On our way we passed the town of Denbigh leaving it two miles on our right, its castle standing on a rocky eminence adds much to the beauty of this country. We came at length to Mold a small market town where our horses were to bait. Here the Quarter Sessions were holding and I met Mr Lloyd who was on the Bench in his judicial capacity. Setting forward again and pursuing our journey through a country still beautifully covered with woods and watered with rivulets we passed many gentlemen’s seats among which Mr Hummerston’s of Guorselt [?] particularly attracted our notice. We arrived safe about five o’clock at Wrexham. Here I was to part with my Irish companions with whom I had so much ingratiated myself that they expressed much regret at 89r [73] our separation as I afterwards learnt both from Mr Stockdale who took my place in the coach to Shrewsbury and from the landlord who waited on them at dinner where my health was drank. At the inn (the Three Eagles) my friend Mr Wilkinson met me. He had with him a Mr Stockdale who was going to Shrewsbury in his way to Broseley and who took my place in the coach but not without some altercation with the captain on the occasion. It was market day and Mr Wilkinson and myself walked through the town to his house called The Court about a mile from Wrexham. This house stands detached from all others, has a handsome avenue of trees leading to it and is situated on a spot famous in the ancient history of his country for it is built on the summit of the English Dyke a large mound of earth crossing his whole country, on which grows abundance 90v [74] of large oak and ash trees. About a mile within this dyke is another called Offa’s Dyke and beyond that the mountains rising to a great height but bearing a very different appearance from those I had left in the morning, for as those were rocky barren and uncultivated these were covered with verdure and sheep and in many places the lands were enclosed and cultivated almost to the summit. A brook which runs between the two dykes gives the valley an appearance of fertility and renders the situation of the house and the walks about it truly delightful. Add to this an excellent kitchen garden from whence we had fruits in abundance and fish ponds supplying the table with tench in perfection and an hospitable disposition in the owner to oblige his friends a more comfortable place can hardly be thought of.” 90r [75] Friday 14 July: “Our first business this morning was to visit the great works belonging to Mr Wilkinson at Bersham. In this neighbourhood they are suitated [situated?] along the brook which runs before his house but are extended to considerably more than a mile from it. After passing through a wood on the top of the dyke which with a little expence might be made one of the most agreeable walks in the country we crossed a road leading from Wrexham to Oswestry and came to some fields on which the hay newly cut was laying in great abundance. This land I found had been manured with bone waste that is the small parts of bones and horns which the manufacturers at Birmingham etc. cannot make use of reduced by mills to small parts and thus spread over the ground. It had here been laid on in the proportion of 100 bushels to an acre for which was paid 5d per bushel and here on a land which produced little of value had caused some of the finest crops to grow that are anywhere to be seen. 91v [76] We soon came to the first mill near which lay a great number of cannon and cylinders of various dimensions most of them iron but there was one pump barrel 16 inches diameter of brass bored and polished with lead and emory for Chase Water Mine in Cornwall whither an engine on Mr Watt’s construction was sent this day. A cylinder 63 inches diameter was boring at this mill by a water wheel about 20 feet diameter whose motion was but slow yet the wheel moved in proportion to the boring tool as 7-1. In large cylinders like this the tool moves and the cylinder is fixed fast whereas in boring guns the gun moves and the tool is fixed. This cylinder (ten feet long) had been once bored through which from the water of the mill being slack had been almost a fortnight about though commonly done in a week, and it was expected the finishing it which was now about would take four days to complete.” [VERY REAL DELAYS FROM NO STEAM COMPLEMENT!] 91r [77] At the next mill several cannon were boring most of them 32 pounders. The motion of the wheel here is also very slow and these cannon when finished weigh about 3 ton 12 cwt. At about half a mile further up the brook we came to the furnace near which are the oven for extracting the mineral tar and the still for rectifying the oil and obtaining the pitch. One ton of coal I was told produced 30 gallons when made into pitch. The oil which comes over in the distillation we tried to burn for lamp black but some better uses have been found for it, especially when I discovered that the soot which may be collected in considerable quantities in the drying rooms does not apparently differ from that gathered from the burning this oil. The oven for extracting the tar is now made of brick but one is cast of iron with cast iron doors but not yet set up. This is a cylinder about 10 feet long and five in diameter. The still 92v [78] by which the tar is made into pitch is also of cast iron and holds near 300 gallons and will require several ovens to keep it constantly at work. This afternoon was employed in contemplating the many beauties of the environs of this house.” Saturday 15 July: “Mr W was indisposed this morning and therefore rode on horseback to the works. But I walked thither by a path different from that yesterday and passed by a corn mill belonging to Mr W worked by the same brook as serves his other mills. Here he has made a fine head of water which is filled with fish. During the night by the neglect of a workman the mill at which the cylinder was boring had stopped for want of water and as it is necessary in that work to keep the business constantly going on, the whole work though half done was obliged to be begun again. 92r [79] Mr W had procured from the mine at Parys Mountain a quantity of the red slush mentioned formerly and we thus day made trial of it in a small blast furnace with some coked peat. But putting in 15 charges of the slush each charge weighing 7 pounds with a basket of coke peat at each charge in about two hours and half the whole that was melted was tapped into an iron mortar and when cold was found only a slag with no one particle of metal among it. As soon as this trial was finished the same furnace was again charged with 500 pounds of precipitated copper at four charges this with the same kind and proportion of fuel as used in the preceding trial produced 33 pounds of good copper not quite fine. We tried in the same furnace and in the same manner 4cwt of the Holywell lead ore as separated from the lapis calaminaris which was mixed with one third its weight of borings of cannon and a due proportion of charred peat. 93v [80] But our most capital experiment was made on the Holywell ore 16 cwt of it being mixed with 1/3d its weight of iron borings were melted in one of the reverberatory furnaces in which the metal for cannon had been this morning melted. This is the kind of trial I have always wished to see made on ores and therefore was highly pleased with it. But notwithstanding the satisfaction the above trials gave me I was not a little disappointed at my not having found here a quantity of the lead ore from Parys Mountain, a hogshead of which Mr Williams had sent to Chester in order that trial of it might be made by me in the large way, and a quantity of the lead sent to London to be assayed for the silver it contains, that the value might be truly ascertained. Which ore however did not arrive during my stay in the country. 93r [81] This day the sole of a water wheel which had been cast two days before was taken out of the pit. It is ten feet diameter and two feet wide; cast iron rims for water wheels have been already made with cast iron buckets but the sole of a wheel has never been executed before. Mr W proposes having two of these wheels one for a forge the other for moving a tilt hammer. They are to be erected at a fall about 1/2 a mile above the present furnace where he has at present a lathe for turning large works. I saw a gun cast this day (a 32 pounder). The metal is melted in four reverberatory furnaces two of which are opened at a time and the metal is about ten minutes running out and falls about 12 feet into the mould which is confined in an iron case. One gun of this size and one smaller (an 18 pounder) are cast at these furnaces every day, and this is the constant employment of ten men who mould them and do the whole business, after which they are sent 94v [82] to the mills where the jets [? perhaps the casting sprue?] are cut off and the cannon bored, for they are all cast solid. At this work is a large blast furnace but no iron is made at it except in winter. But the iron melted here is brought from Willey, Ketley, Snetishill [Snedshill], etc and the large bellows used here are not on the same construction with those at Willey (described in my other tour to that country) but consist of two cylinders from one of which the blast is driven into the other where the force of it is regulated by the rise and fall of a loaded piston which is raised or let down according to the pressure of the air within it. From this machine pipes communicate to a small blast furnace and to a smith’s forge where large works in hammered iron are manufactured. We had so 94v [83] been so busily employed this forenoon that the evening of this day was appropriated to the cools walks of the wood and garden.” [?] Sunday July 16: “We set out this morning on our way to Broseley in a P[ost?] chaise and in our road to Ellesmere passed over some fine fills commanding beautiful prospects of the country with the River Dee running through it with some high mountains terminating the view. At Ellesmere we changed horses. In the neighbourhood of this town is a large mere or pool of water from whence it seems to derive its name. Several other of these lakes are in the neighbourhood. From Ellesmere in about two hours we came to Shrewsbury and dined with Mrs Flint. We then pursued our journey to Coalbrookdale, in our way passing by Bildwas [Buildwas] where the 95v [84] slip or earthquake happened some years since. We came to the Dale. Here we left the chaise on purpose to view the Iron Bridge, where having spent some time we walked to Broseley. Miss Wilkinson and her companion Miss Clayton were come hither from Shrewsbury (where M[iss] W had been on a visit) to receive us and here too we found Mr Stockdale who had taken my place in the coach at Wrexham and had accompanied the laides from Shrewsbury hither.” Monday 17 July: “My first business this morning was visiting Willey Furnace, the bellows, which I still approve more than any I have seen, now serve two furnaces constantly employed in making iron. A considerable part of the building 95r [85] is now taking down for some alterations to be made for manufacturing iron into Half Blooms in a new manner by coke instead of wood charcoal. This is to be done entirely in a new manner and iron rolls and other machinery are now erecting for that purpose. The examination of this work and the purlieus of it employed me sufficiently this morning and in the afternoon I took horse and visited Coalbrookdale. Having passed through this land of fire and smoke we got to the Compting [counting] House and met Mr Sam Darby and after refreshing ourselves with him walked up to Sunnyside, the house of Dame Abiah Darby [not an actual dame, but the widow of Abraham Darby II] who may not improperly be called the Queen of the Dale. This house is built on the side of a very high and steep hill, yet by winding paths and easy steps the approach to it is rendered not difficult, and 96v [86] perhaps the beauty of the gardens and variety of objects that present themselves may not contribute a little to divert the mind from the fatigue which otherwise would be felt in rising this hill, for the ground being laid out with great elegance and taste and ornamented with grottoes formed of moss, iron slags, etc the trees growing luxuriantly and yielding fruit in abundance, and the hills steep and rocky on the opposite side of the Dale, with fish pounds and large pools of water, and views of the works intermixed, delight the eye with their grandeur at the same time that the novelty of the scene transports the beholder with its beauty, for the sudden transition from smoke and fire to verdure and coolness is so amazing that a traveller almost believes himself transported by magick to some other 96r [87] climate; No sooner had we arrived at the house than Mrs Darby presented herself at the door and welcomed us in. She is a lusty comely woman between 60 and 70 years of age, habited in the plain dress of a Quaker with a long blue apron. She ushered us into a large parlour where we found one of her son’s wives and Jenny Harry sitting. Mr Abraham Darby was sent for but excused himself from coming by saying he was at a distance much busied and would meet me at the Iron Bridge on my return. But Mrs A. D. having joined us we passed two or three hours much to our satisfaction and I returned to the Dale highly pleased with the reception I had met with and the entertainment I had received. Mr D, Mr Stockdale and myself walked down the Dale to the Iron Bridge where Mr Ab. D. and my old 97v [88] [friend?] Mr Addenbroke [possibly John Addenbrooke, partner in the Lightmoor ironworks?] met us. I now had an opportunity of viewing this celebrated structure, the Iron Bridge, which if considered as a single arch 100 feet in span made of metal will be allowed not to have its equal in Europe. The whole of the iron work is well executed, and is strong, firm and durable. But as it is proposed soon to publish a print of it it will be unnecessary to enter into a particular detail of its dimensions, only observing that as some people who have hitherto been used to see bridges of a solid massive appearance consider this as a skeleton and too weak for the purpose intended but let them reflect on the material it is constructed of, the mathematical truth of its form, and the mode by which the parts are connected and it will soon appear sufficient for every service it can be wanted for. Indeed I think no fault can be 97r [89] found with the ironwork, but it is not a little surprising that in a part of the bridge where any mason was sufficient to execute the work with propriety a mistake should be made that may prove fatal to the whole fabrick for on that side of the river next Broseley it was necessary to continue a building a considerable way towards the hill. The whole of this building is considerably above any water mark and if it had been formed of arches they might have served for warehouses, dwellings, etc and there could be no doubt of their standing firmly, at the same they would have produced a profitable rent to the proprietory. But the connection between the bridge and the hill is now made by a heavy stone buttress, its inside filled with rubbish, and there seems some danger that its own weight and the declivity of the rock on which it stands may tend to injure it greatly. Having walked both under and over this bridge and examined its parts as fully as I could we returned to Broseley.” 98v [90] Tuesday 18 July: “Mr Wilkinson, Mr Stockdale, myself and a servant set out this morning on horseback and crossed the Severn by a new wooden bridge built over the river about a mile below the iron one. It was a misting wet morning, the land very fine and the prospect of the Severn would have been very fine had not the weather obscured it. The land we passed was in excellent order and the culture of it very well executed. We called on Mr Peele who had since my being last in this country married a daughter of Mr Flint’s of Shrewsbury. We came at length to Burnel Green where we took chaise, and passing by the seats of Lord Pigot and Sir J. Wrottesley through a very sandy country came to Tettenhall, a very neat village celebrated for the quantity of pears produced there and which 98r [91] are sold at Wolverhampton and all the neighbouring towns. The houses in this village are neat and built round a square piece of land on which grow some groves of large trees, the whole making a very picturesque appearance. From hence we came in a little time to Wolverhampton, a large and capital manufacturing town but abounding with poor more than any I had seen. In short, many of the lower class may here be said to be naked, having very little to cover them, and from the dark and dingy hue of their skins owing to the coal smoke they continually live in, the appearance of them is truly disgusting. We did not stop at Wolverhampton but proceeding on our way passed through Bilson [Bilston] and some other small places to Bilston Furnace, a work belonging to Mr Wilkinson. Here the old furnace was entirely burnt out, and the men were employed in casting shot and shells and some work for the fire engines. The new furnace was at work, and the 99v [92] [old?] is ordered to be rebuilt. The produce of this furnace is 25 ton of iron per week. After having dined on the best fare the place afforded, examined the work and viewed some land which Mr Wilkinson has just purchased adjoining to these works, and where he has already found coal and ironstone, and taken [taking?] a view of that part of this country where the land is still burning from a coal pit which took fire in the year 1762, we got into a boat and with one horse to draw us proceeded on our way towards Dudley along the canal which is cut through the country to Birmingham, etc. This canal is supposed to produce the greatest profit of any, the shares which at first were valued at £100 now selling for £400. On our way 99r [93] along the canal we passed Tipton Church and Green, Bloomfield Furnace, a small branch of the canal leading to Wednesbury, and could not help admiring the beauty of the hedges all along the towing path. We landed at a cut made by Lord Dudley from the canal to his limestone rock and from thence walked over the hill and by the beautiful ruins of Dudley Priory to the town of Dudley. As soon as we got to the inn (The Swan) Mr Hately was sent for, it being judged for me to be introduced to him as soon as possible as he was the person appointed by the Commissioners of the Worcester Water Works to meet me to determine their dispute with Mr Cole who had erected an engine for supplying that city with water. [INDUSTRIAL ARBITRATOR???] As Mr Wilkinson knew him well we soon became acquainted, drank tea with his family, and he afterwards showed us the whole of Dudley Castle with those great lime works which lie round about it. This he is well enabled to do 100v [94] being a steward to Lord Dudley and having the management of all his lordship’s coal and lime works in this neighbourhood. Dudley Castle is a very ancient and magnificent pile situated on a remarkable eminence and secured by Fosse’s turrets, etc but was destroyed in the Civil Wars of the last century. It is founded on a rock and there are said to be subterraneous passages communicating from the castle to the Priory which Mr Hately intends to try the truth of. But the hill on which this castle stands is far more curious than the building itself and far more valuable to the owner, curious as being one large mass of limestone in the midst of a country abounding in coal and ironstone for many miles round it without any other appearance like limestone near it. How this immense mass with the fossils 100r [95] it contains many of them singularly curious came into this spot is a matter worthy investigation for whoever examines the strata of the limestone some of which lie almost perpendicular and then considers the layers of the coal and ironstone in the neighbourhood will hardly be able to conceive whether this enormous mass has been driven from under the coal and so forced up above it or whether in some general convulsion of this Globe it has fallen down and thus pressed the layers of coal under its own weight. Whichsoever was the case can hardly be satisfactorily determined till the limestone is worked through and from the magnitude of the hill it is not likely that will soon be effected. However from the circumstance of no lime having yet been found in any part of the neighbouring country this hill is a source of great wealth to its owners the chief of which is Lord Dudley. On my return to the town I purchased a few fossils from some of the men employed in the lime works.” 101v [96] Wed 19 July: “This morning my companions Mr Wilkinson and Mr Stockdale went to Birmingham while I after having breakfasted with Mr Hately rode with him to the several coal works between Dudley and Stourbridge belonging to Lord Dudley. Through all these works a canal is cut called the Stourbridge and Dudley Canal which communicates with the Staffordshire Canal and by that means opens a communication with the Severn. As great part of this canal is cut through a wood the ride on the banks of it is very agreeable. We soon came to my friend Mr Honeybourne’s in Moor Lane near Stourbridge, an eminent glass maker who had tried the mixture of oil and vitriolated tartar which I had recommended to him and which had perfectly succeeded in uniting the pearl ash with the sand in making crown glass wherein it was used instead of barilla INSERT AD ABOUT LORD DUDLEY’S NEW CANAL, 101r: ![[Pasted image 20231221125349.png]] NB prices: 4s per ton for limestone at the waterfront, 3s per quarter for lime, and 2d per quarter loading. 102r [97] “On Mr Honeybourne’s land coal is dug in great abundance, and among it one sort of so close and fine a texture as to admit of its being cut, filed, or turned in a lathe. On one part of his land lay a quantity of clay burnt in such manner [naturally!] as to serve for mending roads. This clay thus burnt is dug out of a pit not far from Dudley, where probably there has been formerly a fire like that near Bilston. Pieces of this clay are taken to Birmingham and other places, and being cut into proper shapes are sold for hones and stones for setting tools on. We returned in the afternoon to Dudley visiting the pit of burnt clay in our road. At Dudley I again met Mr W & S and we returned from thence to Wolverhampton. It was market day and the town was full of people but too late in the evening to visit any of the manufactories except that we just called on a Mr Jones who carries on a work of tin ware. We enquired of him concerning asphaltum but were told he had enough by him to serve many years. [WHY DID THEY ASK???] 103v [98] On our road hither was travelled over many hills particularly one ridge from whence we had a fine view of the country with other hills at a distance the Wrekin, etc. In Wolverhampton … here also runs a river and near it a canal with locks, etc.” Thurs 20 July: “This morning we returned by the pleasant village of Tettenhall and came to Shifnal. Near this town is an house in a fine situation lately belonging to Sir Hugh Briggs called Pryors Leigh [Priorslee]. We soon got to Snedshill a village near which Mr Wilkinson has just begun a new ironwork. Here great quantities of coal and ironstone were lying on the bank and some men were employed in fixing a tin tube about 5 inches diameter down a shaft to convey air into the mine. To the top of the tube was soldered a kind of funnel which standing 10 or 12 feet above the ground and being turned towards that quarter from whence the wind blew the air was forced down the tube to the bottom of the shaft. 103r [99] Some of the ironstone at this work is used for setting an edge to knives, etc other steel tools. The buttress which supports the furnace instead of being solid as is usually the case is here formed of arches which are converted into dwellings for some of the workmen and from the heat which penetrates through the walls of the furnace are comfortable dwelling particularly in the winter. The cylinder for blowing the bellows is 40 inches diameter and the bellows consist of two other cylinders. In one of them a piston moves which takes in and drives out the air, which being received by the third cylinder the force of it is regulated by a loaded piston instead of water as used at Willey. After examining these works I walked over to Ketley (1.5 miles) a village where Mr Reynolds lives. Here I dined and in the afternoon walked to Mr Reynolds’s works which are situated about a mile from 104v [100] his house. Here are four furnaces for smelting iron whose bellows (made of cast iron cylinders) are worked by water and as water is not found in sufficient quantity to do this work, three steam engines are erected, for returning the water into the reservoir after it has run over the wheels. By this contrivance the same water is continually used and none lost except what evaporates. One of these engines is on the new construction by Mr Watt, and I heard for certain that one half the fuel is saved by the use of it. [RETURNING ENGINES - including a Watt engine] Mr Reynolds’s eldest son [William Reynolds] who is about 22 years of age and one of the most ingenious young men of his time has contrived to erect a steam engine in one of the coal pits belonging to these works eighty yards below the surface of the ground. The reason for building it thus deep is that as there is a drain or adit at that depth for carrying off the water, the engine being built there the expence of raising coal, and the long rods for the pumps are saved and also the lifting 104r [101] the condensing water to the surface. As all these operations would be attended with some expence his father thought proper to indulge him in executing his thought. During our stay with the family he frequently hinted that it would be a great pleasure to him if we would descend and visit this engine, and in the evening Mr Wilkinson, Mr Reynolds, his two sons and myself descended to the place where the machine was working. There is nothing new in the construction, all worth seeing was the engine performing its operations at that depth and the coals for supplying fuel dug close to the door of the furnace. The smoke is discharged by an old shaft at the surface from a chimney upwards of 80 yards high. We slept this night at Mr Reynolds’s” Fri 21 July: This morning after viewing young Reynolds’s study which is well furnished with books and mathematical and phylosophical instruments and his laboratory well 105v [102] fitted up for chemical experiments and where I took occasion to recommend to Mr R the trial of some of the slates or bass found over the coal as a matter to be mixed with clay to answer the purpose of black lead pots, this he (having already made many crucibles for his own use) promised to try. Here I was shown some cubic crystals which had formed themselves in an iron slag while in fusion and brought a specimen of them with me. After thus spending an agreeable morning we set out on our return to Bersham. We passed along a part of the old road called Watling Street by Hay Gate to Shrewsbury where we again dined with Mrs Flint whose husband is post master of the town. Here I was told that the postman who brings letters to Shrewsbury and has been in that employ forty years has by his industry amassed a sum not less than £4,000 of which he is now possessed but still follows 105r [103] his business of a postman. This evening the weather proved very fine and about 9 o’clock we arrived safe at Bersham.” Saturday 22 July: “This morning my first attention was towards the works, and here we found the cylinder which had been stopped during the boreing had been put to rights and was now boreing afresh. 16 cwt of lead ore in the air furnace had produced 8 cwt of lead besides some that remained in the slag whereas the 4 cwt in the blast produced little more than 1.5, but this trial was not well made owing to a deficiency of water to blow the bellows. In these works 60 ton of iron had been melted during the preceding week and this day while we were here several cannon were cast, as two 6-pounders and one 24-pounder which last weighted 3 tons 15 cwt. I attended particularly to the running of the metal for this gun. At 42 minutes past 1, two air furnaces were tapped; at 45.5 a third was opened and at 47 the fourth was opened and at 49 minutes the casting was ended. The fall of the metal from the channels 106v [104] into the mould when it began running about 10 feet. Two furnaces only ran together for as soon as the metal was got out of one another was opened. The ten feet [iron] waterwheel was cutting in two for the more easy conveying it to its situation. This is done by drilling a number of holes in a straight line down the sides of the wheel opposite each other punching out the parts between the holes and thus separating the wheel into two parts which when the axis is put in are to be brought into their places again and the circle made complete by plates of iron riveted on. I now visited another wheel which I had not seen before. It is situated about half a mile higher up the stream which runs through the works and here is a lathe where all the heavy work is turned so that the brass plate for the [Ravenhead?] Glass Work weighing 11 ton was turned and its face made flat at this lathe, and here all works of such magnitude are finished. A discovery has lately been made of casting copper guns in such manner as to be perfectly sound. By this the inconvenience of brass guns running 106r [105] when heated will be prevented, and Mr W. the discoverer [Wilkinson invention!] showed us two guns of this sort with locks fixed to them. The two cast iron cones for the use of assayers which I had ordered when last here were finished to satisfaction. One of them is to go to the mine at Parys Mountain the other for me in London. We now saw the mode used for breaking any unserviceable cannon which are to be remelted. One cannon is fixed in a pair of slings with a contrivance for being discharged by a blow of a hammer. This cannon by means of a crane fixed to a triangle is raised a little height and when it is at rest another cannon is laid immediately under it. By the same crane the first cannon is then raised as high as the triangle will admit, which was here about 30 feet. A man then going up by a ladder to the top strikes the click which holds the cannon which falling on that below not only breaks it but is itself broke at the same time. The mineral tar was now distilling and a quantity of 107v [106] the watery liquor which comes over with it and is of a red colour and strong bitter taste was ordered to be evaporated to see if any salt could be obtained from it. The morning having been thus fully employed we appropriated the evening to fishing, first in a pond whence were got two fine tench and afterwards in the brook where some small trout and eels were got for stores in the mill pool.” Sunday 23 July: “Mr Stockdale and myself were this morning at church at Wrexham. As this town is called the capital of North Wales so the church makes a very grand appearance … [etc etc] 107r “This monument the pious tribute of her disconsolable husband was erected to the memory of Ann Wilkinson late wife of Mr John Wilkinson iron master. She died November 17 1756 aged 28..” 108r [107] [notices the monument to Ann Wilkinson] “The service here was well performed, the two curates taking each a part and the second lesson was read in the Welsh tongue. But one thing pleased me much. Instead of the usual noise which attends the singing psalms in churches, one man came forward in the gallery under the organ 109v [108] and sang part of the 104 and 135 psalm without any of the congregation joining with him. His voice though not of that tender kind now so much the fashion among male as well as female singers seemed to me so well adapted to Psalm singing and his manner and action were all so expressive that I could not refrain from thinking of the late Mr Beard, and greatly was I surprised to find that this excellent performer was one of the men who constantly worked at Mr Wilkinson’s furnaces. The town allow him £5 per annum for singing and he is to instruct some people in Psalmody. After the service was ended he came up to me and told me he intended to have sung an anthem but the organist of the church being absent, the woman who this day played it performed so ill she could not accompany him.” 109r [109] “We this afternoon amused ourselves with walking through some woods belonging to Philip York Esq whose house lately repaired stands on an eminence, part of the English dyke. In the front of it runs a trout stream through a beautiful lawn surrounded with woods. Within these woods the stream forms two cascades, and in one place which seems to have been a situation of more consequence than any other, there has lately been placed a statue as large as life of a druid in a pensive posture made of artificial stone and I believe modelled by Mr Bacon. In one part the ground is formed into a pleasure garden with gravel walks, clusters of flowering shrubs, etc and the sudden transition from such a scene to the gloomy walks among venerable oaks, elm and ash trees is at once awful and entertaining. As all persons are admitted to walk here great numbers were assembled in the evening …” 110v [110] Monday 24 July: “This morning the cylinder was bored and finished. It weighed 4 ton 10 cwt and the price of boring is £10 per ton. When the trial of the lead ore was made I directed a cannon ball to be cast of the metal and also a ball of iron in the same mould. We weighed them as exactly as possible and found the weight of the leaden ball to be 48 pounds, the iron ball 31.5 pounds. The remainder of my time at the works this day was fully employed in examining the pitch produced from the mineral tar and giving directions for the conducting the operations in future, and ordering a quantity of it and what other things I had collected to be sent to me in London.” 110r [111] Tues 25 July: “This morning Mr Wilkinson and Mr Stockdale returned to Lancashire and I employed myself in writing and preparing for my departure and about two o’clock left this delightful spot where I had found so much entertainment and improvement and having taken a place in the stage to Shrewsbury I went to the inn (Three Eagles) at Wrexham to wait for it. At this house is now building a new Assembly Room 62 by 24 feet with bow windows at each end, painted ceiling, etc. From hence we set out about 4 o’clock, passed through the pleasant village of Overton, changed horses at Ellesmere and arrived at Shrewsbury about 11 at night.” Wed 26 July: “This morning about 5 o’clock i proceeded in another stage coach on my journey to Kidderminster. About six miles from Shrewsbury passed by a large handsome house belonging to a Miss Cresset 111v [112] near which are fine woods and beautiful water. Not far from hence in the middle of the road stands an old and stately oak tree and in the country a good deal of flax is cultivated. I breakfasted at Wenlock a mean town but which sends two members to Parliament and here I was joined by a Mr Wheeler of Bewdley (for I had hitherto this morning travelled by myself). We passed a seat of Sir Richard Acton at Aldenham a Roman Catholic, a house belonging to the family of weavers at Marvel where an old church stands in the open fields. In this country hemp grows in abundance. From hence we soon came to Bridgnorth where we called on Mr Langley an attorney. No sooner had we passed the bridge over the Severn at this town than the face of the country became remarkably changed for as the country we passed through this morning was beautifully variegated with wood and water the land now was sandy and 111r [113] rocky and barren. Yet even here in some places they were enclosing commons and endeavouring to improve it. After traveling some miles we came to a large pool of water near which is a house belonging to Mr Whitmore [Dudmaston Hall?]. Then rising a hill the face of the country again began to alter for passing through a village called Quat [Quatt] where is a neat new church built of white stone [Quatt church seemingly of brick and red sandstone, as is Quatford church, but was possibly painted white; though Alveley church is whiter] from hence a fine view over Severn the clay hills in the distance. Here were several apple orchards and some hops growing and on the left a good house belonging to a Mr Lee. We came now in sight of Malvern Hills and about three miles from Kidderminster left a beautiful valley on our left and soon came to a village called Franch and from thence in a little time to Kidderminster. Here we dined and having determined to go this evening to my friend Mr Honeybourne near Stourbridge, I spent part of the 112v [114] afternoon in viewing the town which is well built and celebrated for its weaving, particularly carpets. But Mr Freestone with whom I had some acquaintance being absent and having heard no improvements had lately taken place in their works I contented myself with viewing the canal which here runs under the street and over the River Stour. On the bank of the canal is a small pottery where they were making Queen’s Ware and near it is the church a large venerable pile now repairing. … 112r [115] … “adjoining the church is a large school room where several boys were at their exercise and the master received us very politely. The trade of this town has lately declined much but is now thought to be reviving by a Mr Proby from London [thanks to him, or just his opinion?]. I now took leave of my companion Mr Wheeler and took post chaise to Stourbridge. Part of the road hither lay through a river at Broadwater near which is an ironwork. The remainder of the road very sandy. I got to Mr Honeybourne’s at night.” 113v [116] Thurs 27 July: “This morning I took view of the branch of the canal which Mr Honeybourne has cut from the great canal into his works whereby he is enable to ship his coals without any land carriage. By such works as these the coal owners in this part of the country are enabled to send coals to market at Stourport on as easy terms as the people in Staffordshire etc who have coal pits on the banks of the canals. The coal works here are very considerable and I was informed by the colliers of a singular fact which they all agree in that whenever they are at work in the pits about midnight a sudden motion of the earth takes place and any coals that happen at that time to be loosened are so shook as to fall down that this constantly happens about that hour and some of the men use it to their advantage for leaving some work a little loosened over the night they are sure to find it quite separated the next morning. They say something like this motion happens also about noon every day but not so sensibly as in the night. [EARTHQUAKES AND COAL-MINING???] 113r [117] I was now informed that the glass made with alkaline salt dissolved in lime water as I had formerly proposed was very fusible but when the pots were nearly worked out it became so hard and full of knots as not to be fit for use. [his suggested improvement, mentioned above] Here the sheet glass made imitation of the German sheet is made. It is blown into muffs [?] and then flatted on a stone in a gentle heat. Mr Honeybourne has lately began a work of Crown glass and succeeds well in it. The furnace for this sort differs much in its construction from the common glass house furnace, being lower and not having any annealing furnace over it. But it goes much hotter than any furnace for glassmaking I had ever seen. The men having gathered a proper quantity (about 12 pounds) blow it into a sphere then turning it open the end and in a hot hole flash it by turning it quick round, introducing an iron at the first beginning to open in order to hasten the spreading which afterwards the twirling 114v [118] round of the iron completes. Here also is a flint glass house differing a little but not much from those round London. Enamel has been frequently made here but with tin has always been found of a blue cast, but made with powdered flint and arsenic is very white and easily fusible. Some company who dined with us to day prevented my being so much in the works as I intended, and in the evening we accompanied them in their way home and about two miles distant from Mr H’s house on some land belonging to him. I was shown a pit in a sand rock in which are intermixed pebbles of limestone some of which we took with us and burnt to lime and part of them I brought to London. As it has been observed limestone has hitherto only been found on Lord Dudley’s estate it is not unlikely this may prove an useful discovery. Here I was informed that a mixture of oil and vitr- tartar which I had advised to be mixed with pearl ash in order to substitute that kind 114r [119] of salt in the place of barilla, for making crown glass had succeeded. I desired a small trial of the same matters might be made in flint glass. Accordingly we mixed sand and minuim [?] and 15 pounds pearl ash, [various symbols follow] ![[Pasted image 20231221125421.png]] this composition was melted and” Friday 28 July “this morning on taking out a proof the glass was of a good colour though not plain and the pot not being full Mr H mixed some more of the ingredients in the same proportion and set them to melt with the others. [HIS IMPROVEMENT SUCCEEDS - CHEMICAL INVENTOR] We had proposed this day to visit Stourport and in order that I might see as much as possible of the canals we agreed to travel on horseback along the towing path, and lucky it was we did so for we had not advanced more than two miles when we were alarmed with the noise of a boy, who was crying out on the banks of the River Stour which here ran in a bottom parallel to the canal. At first imagining the boy was at play we paid no attention to him. But soon after a woman screaming 115v [120] we concluded some mischief had happened and I desired Mr H to get off his horse and examine into the matter. No sooner was he got down the bank than he called to me saying a child was drowned. I immediately left the horses and running to the spot saw the child lying at the bottom of the water 6 or 7 feet deep. Mr H had picked up a boat hook which I took from him and in my ardour to lay hold of the child had nearly fallen in myself. With this boat hook we could not reach the body but paddling in the water the infant began to rise towards the surface when laying hold of its shirt we drew it on short to all appearance quite dead. I directed the woman to carry the child immediately to a bed where I rubbed its body with my hand while she went and fetched some salt. With this I directed her to rub the belly and in less than a quarter of an hour it began to show signs of life, struggled a little and then vomited. Finding it thus recovered we left it and pursued our journey, [SAVES A CHILD FROM DROWNING!] 115r [121] passing through a village called Stew Poney near Stourton Castle to Whittington where is the celebrated mill for slitting iron bars belonging to Mr Knight. Among all the great works in this country this is one of the most capital having been erected at a prodigious expence. It is situated on the River Stour and all the wheels and rollers are made of cast iron by Mr Wilkinson. The water wheel whose rims are of cast iron but the ladles wood is 12 feet diameter and undershot. The axis of this wheel moves on friction wheels about 3 feet diameter and at the extremity of the axis is fixed another wheel 24 feet diameter with cogs on the periphery by which it communicates with another wheel of the same diameter and the same number of cogs so that these two wheels move with equal velocity. The second of these wheels turn a pair of rollers into which bars of iron a foot in length 3 inches wide and half an inch thick first made red hot in reverberatory furnaces 116v [122] are put; and the rollers extend these bars to a length of about 5 feet and thickness and breadth in proportion. As soon as it has passed these rollers the iron yet hot is passed between two other rollers moved by the axis of the first wheel which rollers are grooved and cut the bar into slips fitting it for the use of the nailers. When we were there they were cutting it into proper thicknesses for making brads [?? bars?] which in the breadth above mentioned made eighteen pieces and each of these bars was reduced in this manner in 1/4 of a minute. The shears by which the bars are cut into the length of one foot are moved by the water wheel and the bars of iron snipped off by them as easily as a pin by a pair of large scissors. The whole of this work is on a very large scale. A crane of cast iron for lifting large weights, whose pinions have three cogs, the wheel 44. A lathe for turning iron screws turned by three men working cranks. A furnace for 116r [123] tempering iron and which serves also for melting brass much on the same construction as those used by the founders in London but about 3 feet diameter. For their brass works they use black lead pots no.60. From hence we came to Kidderminster and leaving the canal passed through a sandy country to Stourport. Here the several canals which have been cut through the interior parts of the kingdom open into the River Severn and from hence a communication is made by water from one side of the kingdom to the other. It must afford every considerate mind the highest satisfaction to find this spot (a few years since barren and uncultivated) now improved into a port and mart where all kinds of goods can be shipped from the many manufactures in the centre of the kingdom to any foreign dominions and on the contrary the product of distant lands brought by easy and cheap conveyance to the inhabitants of the inland parts of the country. The trade of this place is increasing greatly and the 117v [124] necessary preparations are making to render everything about it commodious. Wharfs are making for the boats whereby they will be enabled to load their contents onboard the larger vessels in the river which have hitherto been obliged to come within the locks to take their loading, from when great inconvenience has arisen in times of little water as when I was there a [sic?] prodigious warehouses are built, filled with all kinds of goods as brass, iron, earthenware, etc but the great business seemed the coals of these many thousand tons lay on the banks ready to be shipped for Bristol, Gloucester, Worcester and the neighbourhood. Many houses are built about this place and in particular an excellent inn where we dined at an Ordinary with a large company very handsomely and reasonably. Among us was a philosopher who was travelling the country reading lectures and had a good apparatus. At 117r [125] Stourport a handsome stone bridge has been built over the Severn leading to a place called Lower Airley [Areley]. About a quarter of a mile from this bridge lives my friend Mr John Zachary. I called at his house but found he was in London. The house is neat, pleasantly situated in a garden well laid out with shrubberies, fish ponds, etc. It was intended that the entrance of the canal into Severn should have been at Bewdley a town about 3 miles from Stourport but the inhabitants of that place blind to their own interest objected to it and now Stourport is rising to a capital place while Bewdley is degenerating to nothing. Leaving this scene of industry and business we travelled back by the side of the canal to Kidderminster and in our way from thence called to enquire after the child whom we had saved in the morning. We now saw the mother who was absent when the accident. 118v [126] After bestowing her benedictions upon us she told us the child was perfectly recovered, its name Samuel Evans and that on the 18 of July 1779 another of her children one year and quarter old had been drowned in the same place which indeed from its situation and the little care taken to guard against such accidents seems perfectly adapted to the purpose. This boy Samuel Evans was about four years old. It was now near ten at night and we made the best of our way home.” Saturday 29 July: “As they were now working Crown Glass I spent some time this morning in the glass house and had a proof taken from the flint in which the [alchemical symbol for pearl ash, or perhaps something like potassium?] & ol. ![[Pasted image 20231221125516.png]] had been added. This now was become very yellow, not plain and cordy, but was left to be more tried. It now occurred to me that perhaps the small coal at these pits called slack might be advantageously used for the tar to be extracted from especially as it 118r [127] would be of service to get it out of the pits where sometimes it takes fire and occasions the pits to be closed up to extinguish it. Mentioning this to Mr Honeybourne he promised to prepare a small apparatus for the work and try it as it will not cost him more than two shillings the ton and if it does not serve for coke when burnt, it will at least answer for manuring land. This being the day on which I had appointed to be at Worcester I had written to Mr Hately informing him that I should be ready to go thither this evening. After dinner he came to Mr Honeybourne’s on horseback bringing his eldest son with him. I ordered a chaise for myself but he took place with me letting his son lead his horse. Thus we proceeded to Hoo Brook where there is a pleasant inn at which we were to change chaises but the mistress of the inn not having a chaise at home and the boy who brought us hither not choosing to let her have that in which we came we had almost 119v [128] agreed to wait til he had fed his horses and so proceed with the same chaise and horses to Worcester, but the landlady unwilling to lose a job and wishing to be revenged of the boy for refusing the chaise offered if I would go in a coach to send four horses with me for the same price as I must have paid for a chaise and pair. This was too good an offer for me to refuse. Accordingly I got into the coach with young Hately, his father riding one horse and leading another. After riding thus about six miles Mr Hately chose to get into the carriage and about three miles from Worcester two boys met us and told the post boys to take care for two men were waiting for us at the bridge. This alarmed us a little and Mr Hately got out of the coach, mounted his horse and vowing I should not be robbed rode as a guard at the head of the horses while his son rode by the side of the carriage. We soon came to the 119r [129] bridge but no men were there. However a little time after two persons well dressed and well mounted rode by us, to whom my guards paid due attention. Whether these were the men boys meant we could not tell as we passed them unmolested and got safe about half past ten to Worcester and put up at the Crown Inn in Broad Street.” Sunday 30 July: “The judges (Perrin & Buller) came to this city last night, the Assizes beginning tomorrow. I was at the cathedral (called here the College) this morning and the judges being there and the city full of company the congregation was very large. … 120v [130] Most of the streets in this city are wide and open and being new paved with good footways in the manner of London it is a very agreeable place to be at. A new bridge is building over the Severn which has already been ten years about and is not yet finished and has many capital defects in its construction both with regard to its materials and forms. Mr Gwynn the architect [John Gwynn, of Shrewsbury, who was the author of proposals for a national art academy, who had exhibited rejected designs for Blackfriars Bridge at the Society of Arts in the 1760s]. [SLOW INFRA] In the afternoon I was at the coffeehouse where I met a very whimsical clergyman of the name of Hughes who was very busy and humorous on account of the election for members of Parliament, Sir Watkin Lewis being now very busy canvassing the city against Mr Bearcroft.” Monday 31 July: “The clerk to the Commissioners (Mr Browne a civil and obliging man) not having yet been able to procure the necessary books and papers we 120r [131] wanted, I spent part of this morning in the court where a man was tried and found guilty of stealing a number of watches from a watchmaker’s house in Dudley. The courthouse is an handsome building and the courts of justice well adapted to the purposes they are designed for. Perrin sat on the crown side and Buller on the nisi prius. As soon as the proper books were obtained we entered on the business which brought me hither and were employed in it the remainder of the day.” Tuesday 1 August: “This morning our business engaged us again and in the afternoon we walked to examine the water engine. The wheel is 34 feet diameter and 16 on the sole. It works 4 cranks. The pumps made of cast iron are 7 inch bore and the length of the stroke 21 inches. The bore of the main pipes 6 inches and the reservoir is of wood lined with lead and more than a mile distant from the engine.” [Worcester water supply details!] 121v [132] Wed 2 Aug: “This morning I desired a meeting of the Commissioners might be called in order that I might ask them some questions relative to the business we had in hand. They met accordingly and informed me that they were perfectly satisfied with Mr Hately and myself and without giving themselves any trouble in the matter would submit the whole to our arbitration and determination. The remainder of this day and of the next [Thurs 3 Aug] were employed in examining papers and making proper extracts.” Fri 4 Aug: “And on this day about four o’clock in the afternoon Mr Hately and myself having taken every caution in our power to do justice to all parties came to a final resolution on the business which brought us hither seemingly well pleased with each other’s conduct and in hopes 121r [133] the parties concerned in the arbitrament would be as well satisfied as we were. The persons I had chiefly seen on this business were Mr Browne, clerk to the commissioners a well-meaning good-natured man inclined to settle the matter amicably; Mr Millington formerly a plumber in the city one who had had a hand in constructing the engine and therefore afraid lest too much should be said about it; Mr Dandridge a sensible well spoken man and an attorney of great practice he was the mouth of the commissioners at their meeting; Mr Howard a large dealer or merchant of the city, one of those good humoured men who though attentive to their own private affairs love when matters of public concern are in litigation rather to laugh than attend to business; and a Mr Fewtrell of whom I only say he formerly kept an inn. 122v [134] About six o’clock this evening I parted from Mr Hately and some other friends at Worcester not a little pleased with my colleague and the manner in which the business I had been about had been transacted, a Mr Male an attorney who had been sent by Mr Cole from London and Mr Boughton his foreman accompanying me in the post chaise for London. We changed horses at Evesham and got to Morton in the Marsh about 12 o’clock. This is a poor town and poorer inn but here I slept and about 6 [Saturday] the next morning proceeding on our journey breakfasted at Oxford and wishing to see my friends Mrs Hawes and Mrs Cotes at Reading came thither to dinner and from thence about 10 in the evening to London.” 122r [135] “Dale works - consisting of 2 blast furnaces 2 forges 1 slitting mill boring mill etc Horsehay works Two blast furnaces - blown by two engines which throw the water into a reservoir[?] for the wheels. Ketley’s 3 furnaces blown the same as Horsehay" ## Add MS 89126/3 ### 1783 to Lancashire & West Midlands 2 Thurs Aug 7: “Left London at 3 this afternoon in the Birmingham post coach which was hired for our company consisting of Mr Wilkinson, Miss Wilkinson, Mrs More and myself. Mr W and I had but a few days returned from Calais whither we had gone to meet his daughter on her return from the continent; rain had fallen this morning and the dust being effectually laid we had a pleasant journey by Henley to Oxford where we arrived about 10, and as we had set out from London three hours sooner than usual we lay at the Angel Inn and set off again the next morning.” Fri Aug 8: “[left] at 6 o’clock and got to Birmingham at half past 3. After dinner I called on Dr Withering [William Withering], Mr Ford, Mr Westwood and [Ms or Mr?] Gill. And in the evening Dr Priestley, Mrs & Miss Priestley. Mr Bewley with Mr and Mrs Watt were with us.” 3 Sat 9 Aug: “Mr Wilkinson and myself in one chaise left Birmingham at eight this morn and came to Bradley where the engine for making stamp iron is finished. The hammer is wrought by the steam engine. Six houses have been built for workmen since last year and great improvements made in the whole of these great works particularly in the pipery for heating the pigs previous to the iron being brought under the hammer for stamping. Of these finery hearths there are two and the bellows are blown by the fire engine which works the hammer. Large quantities of ironstone have been collected from the land on fire which still continues to burn with fury though a channel of water has been turned into it. Passing through Bilston we came to Wolverhampton where we again joined Mrs M and Miss W who had come thither in another chaise from Birmingham. Here we dined and here I saw a sketch by Mr Barney who had received some premiums from the Society of a picture for an altar piece of a church in this town, the subject the descent from the cross. 4 Leaving Wolverhampton we passed through the pretty village of Tettnall [Tettenhall] and over that fine part of Staffordshire which borders on Shropshire and crossed the Severn at the wooden bridge [Coalport Bridge] over that river between Coalbrookdale and Bridgnorth. In this neighbourhood the land is very hilly and from these hills the prospects of the country with the beautiful river meandering in the vale are truly delightful. About 7 in the evening we got safe to Broseley where we found Miss Clayton who had come from Wroxeter to meet us and in the evening Mr Blakeway came to us.” Sunday Aug 10: “This morning was employed in adjusting our baggage and writing. In the afternoon visited Willey furnace where a new steam engine is erecting for returning the wheel water into the great pool. The stamping machine building last year with an iron harness is finished and has worked but now waits till the engine is completed, water being very scarce this summer. [RETURNING ENGINE AGAIN!] We walked home by the coal pits and ironstone mounts and in the evening had the company of Mr Parry, Hemus, Blakeway, etc.” 5 Monday Aug 11: “In my way to the furnace this morning I was shown a singular and curious circumstance. A large ash tree had been brought to the pit to be sawed into planks and in cutting it the workmen discovered a hollow in which they found a bird’s nest with the skulls and other bones of the birds still remaining therein although the hollow was quite grown over with sound wood. How it had happened that these little animals had been thus shut up or how long time had elapsed since they were thus immured is hard to say but I counted more than forty rings of sap over the hole so that it had certainly been more than so many years since it happened but as some of the wood was cut away the precise time could not be ascertained. In the afternoon we were at Mr Blakeway’s where I was first introduced to his new married lady a young woman of great personal accomplishments and excellent understanding, daughter of a Mr Prothero, a clergyman in the neighbourhood and from the dissimilarity of their years she appears much more like his daughter than his wife.” 6 Tues Aug 12: “This morning after attending some fishermen at the pond in the garden at Broseley where they caught 3.5 brace of fine tench I accepted the invitation of several of the commissioners of the Court of Conscience and passed great part of the day with them in that court. the Reverend Mr Hemus presided and well it is to see the clergy so well employed for here those small causes which used formerly not only to impoverish the lower class of people but spread a spirit of contention and ill blood among them are easily and in a summary way settled and it must afford a high satisfaction to every observer to see the change in the morals and deportment of the common people which everywhere takes place where these courts are established. Mr and Mrs Flint came to Broseley this day from Shrewsbury and passed the afternoon with us.” 7 Wed Aug 13: “This morning Mr W and myself went on horseback by Coneyborough [Coneybury] a place abounding with coal pits lying between Broseley and the Severn to a ferry which we crossed to Madeley Wood, from thence through Coalbrookdale by Lightmore and Horsehay to Snetshill. At this work as at all the others belonging to my friend Mr Wilkinson great change has been made. The furnaces are altered in their height and width and in the manner of charging and to good effect for the Snedshill pigs do not only bear the character of being the best in the neighbourhood but had been mentioned as such to me by some of the principal founders in London. Great quantities of coal, ironstone and limestone were here collected and duly arranged as indeed they are at every one of Mr W’s works. Mr Reynolds having a meeting this day we did not go to Ketley, but dined at Benjamin Rowley’s where Mr W. Reynolds joined us 8 at the works. I collected some specimens of figured fossils and returned by Lightmore and the Dale over the Iron Bridge and in the evening again visited Willey furnace.” Thurs Aug 14: “Mr Flint, Mrs More, Miss W. and myself walked to the hills overlooking the Severn. From these hills the views of the river and country are most highly picturesque and romantic. The ladies returning home by the town of Broseley I proceeded over the Iron Bridge to the Dale and visited my good friend Mrs Darby at Sunnyside. The new great fire engine which is the most powerful one hitherto erected works well. I returned again to Broseley to dinner and in the afternoon Mr Rowley an apothecary in the town desired me to visit one of his patients a young man of the name of Weaver who lived at a house about 3 miles distant called Hem. The patient was ill of a fever. I directed him to be blooded and to take James’s Powder.” 9 Friday Aug 15: “The morning Mr Weaver came to me and informed me his son was as much better as could be expected. Mr Gallimore called upon us and went with us to the furnace where orders were given for erecting a hammer for drawing bar iron to be finished in two months. On the road we were met by Mr Leighton a Roman Catholic gentleman of this neighbourhood who politely invited me to dine with him on Monday next with Sir Edward and Lady Smith etc. This day Mr Holbrooke a clergyman from Draiton [Market Drayton?] came to Broseley and with him an afternoon was spent agreeably. He is an intelligent, sensible man and has withdrawn himself from the Church of England on account of his not approving the Doctrine of the Trinity.” Saturday Aug 16: “To the furnace in the morning. At dinner Mr W. Reynolds, Mr Rathbone etc From Mr Reynolds I was informed of a singular 10 fact, that lately on repairing the engine at their works at Horsehay some pigs of iron were found which when laid there upwards of 20 years ago were brittle white iron but by the exposure to the air and water during that length of time they were now found to be tough and grey. It is surely well worth enquiry how so remarkable a change could have happened. The double cogged wheels proposed by me to Mr W. Reynolds are coming into general use. Heard that Weaver’s son still continued to mend. We saw our company to the Iron Bridge and the ladies being tired sent them back in a chaise from the Swan while Mr Blakeway and myself walked home. Several letters this day from London.” Sunday Aug 17: “At church, Mr and Mrs Blakeway dined with us. In the evening we walked to the hills over Severn. Wrote this day to London.” 11 Monday Aug 18: “A party was appointed to go this morning to the top of the Wrekin and about 11 o’clock we set out, Mr and Miss W with Mrs More in a post chaise, Mr Holbrook on foot while I rode his horse. We called at the Dale and I introduced Mrs More to my friend Mrs Darby with whom she agreed to stay all the day fearing the fatigue of ascending the mountain would be too much for her. As Sir Edward Smith and Lady were to visit the porcelain works at Caughley this day, and to call on Mr Addenbroke, I went to his house at Buildwas accompanied by Mr Fausset from the Dale. Sir E. Smith’s carriages being sent from Cressedge [Cressage] by land to the Iron Bridge, the company came down the river in a boat attended by another having a band of musicians in it. As they stopped at Buildwas I went into the boat and after some conversation landed and proceeded with Mr Fausset towards the Wrekin. We 12 returned to Buildwas Bridge and turning on the left passed through a village called Little Wenlock where is a very large house formerly of great repute but now inhabited only by some farmers. From hence in about half an hour having passed some narrow bad roads we came to a lone house, the Wrekin being at no great distance on our left. Here a man directed us across some meadows and up a pretty steep part of the mountain where grew a great number of large hollies and some ash trees. In a little time we reached the summit and here found Mr Young senior of Shifnal and his daughter in law who had waited some time in expectation of our company. A number of servants from the Dale had brought up provisions, etc and it was not long before the rest of our company arrived consisting of Mr Wilkinson, Mr Rathbone, Mr W and R. Reynolds junior, Mr Bolbrook, Miss Reynolds and Miss Wilkinson. We sat down to the 13 cold collation which was spread on the green turf and regaled ourselves heartily with it. No sooner had we dined than a person on horseback came towards us. He proved to be on Johnson a tailor of Wellington well acquainted with every part of the mountain. He readily accepted an invitation to partake of the cheer with the servants and as he attached himself to me served as a good guide in my travels over the different parts of the hill. On the summit of the hill there grows a short grass and a variety of mosses on which many sheep feed. Some first have been planted in clumps and fenced but they do not appear to thrive. I believe they were too old when planted. There many rocks project over the declivity of the hill, the largest of which lies on the south side and is about the size and shape of a 20 gun ship. It is called the Bladder Stone. On the top of this stone 14 is a hollow about nine inches long and six or seven wide and three deep called the Raven’s Cup being always found full of water. I tasted the water which was cool and pleasant although there were in it a great number of drowned flying ants of which an innumerable quantity were this day over every part of the hill insomuch that our hats, clothes etc were almost covered with them. But we found no other inconvenience from them. A little to the westward of the Bladder Stone another rock projects itself in form of a shelf, and from it is the most perpendicular precipice I ever stood on. it is hardly necessary to say that from this celebrated hill the prospects are very extensive and fine for as it stands single and is very high, land visible fifty miles distant, the Severn running at the foot of it and the country in many parts near it finely wooded, nothing 15 can exceed it in beauty. But this day was unluckily very hazy and unfavourable. Having taken as full a view of the hill as our time allowed in which the Wellington tailor did not a little assist me we began to think of returning and about 7 o’clock set out to walk down the place where the chaise had been left and the bottom about two miles from the spot where we dined. To save this long walking it is customary to sit on the moss and slide down the declivity. This Mr R. Reynolds and myself practised and I think it by far the best way of getting down. Being got to the place where the chaise stood I mounted on horseback while the rest of the company walked through several narrow lanes round another large hill called the Archill [Ercall] or Tail of the Wrekin but which is [fairly?] divided from it. This walk was not less than four miles. 16 When we got to the turnpike road we pursued our journey by Horsehay to the Dale leaving Mr Reynolds and Mr Young who went on to Ketley and Shifnal. The appearance of the fires from the coke banks and furnaces at Ketley were this night very magnificent but after we had passed Horsehay and were out of sight of the fires both of that work and of the Dale Mr Fausset and myself who were together were surprised by a most extraordinary degree of light which illumined all the land around us in such manner as would have enabled us to read the smallest print. At first we supposed it to be lightning but the brilliance continuing on turning about there appeared behind us at an elevation of about 30! the most beautiful meteor I ever beheld. It consisted of five balls or rather oval bodies of white brilliant fire distinct from each other and with some 17 many smaller sparks attending them it moved slowly in nearly an horizontal direction from north to south. We plainly saw it extinguish in the air at a considerable height above the horizon but heard no explosion. In its appearance it most resembled a sky rocket flying horizontally but diffused a light greater than ten thousand rockets could have occasioned. We arrived at the Dale about 10 o’clock where everyone had been surprised at the appearance of the meteor which had been seen over all this country and in most parts of England. Mrs More was come from Sunnyside to Mr Rathbone’s and we proceeded to Broseley where we arrived about 11.” Tues Aug 19: “This morning at Willey furnace where the new steam engine for returning the water into the pool was set to work and performed well. Dined at Mr Blakeway’s. In the afternoon walked to Benthall with Mr 18 Banks [Bancks of Bancks and Onions Benthall furnaces?] who obligingly gave me three cilts [?] found near Bewdley and a specimen of hollow stalactite found in a limestone 20 yards deep. On our return we were overtaken with a violent storm of thunder with much lightning. In the evening Mr Young junior from Shifnal called on me attending to stay all night but a messenger coming over for him he went home about 12.” Wed 20 Aug: “Mrs Blakeway, Mrs More and myself went to the porcelain works at Caughley and to Mr Gallimore’s. These works are going on successfully. We returned about 1. This day was extremely hot. Mr Ferriday dined with us. He had seen the meteor on Monday and supposed it fell on the hills at Madeley. I learnt also that it had been seen at Bridgnorth about 8 miles distant where it appeared as if over the town as it was said to be at Willey furnace. In short the reports 19 concerning it are as numerous and as various as the people who relate them, every one speaking of it as their fears and frights have worked on them, one man in particular asserting that it passed so near him as to knock a candle out of his hands in the street at Broseley while another protests he saw it strike against a chimney in the same town. We were this evening at the furnace where the engine continues to work well. And Mr Holbrook took leave of us proposing to set out early tomorrow morning for Draiton [Market Drayton?].” Thurs Aug 21: “I was this morning again at the furnace and collected a few fossils from the limestone. Mr W. Reynolds had lent me a pamphlet written by one Dud Dudley on making iron with pit coal, who practised that art but without success. It seems that a person of the name of Wood made bar iron 20 from pit coal at Ruabon in Denbighshire about the same time Mr Darby did at the Dale. Many methods of purifying the coke pigs so as to make bars from them with pit coal have been contrived such as shotting the metal by puring it in a melted state into water etc but none of them have been successful except the method of making what is called Stamp Iron [Potting and stamping / stampering] for doing which a patent was some years since granted to Messrs Wright and Jesson [John Wright and Richard Jesson, patent no.1054 of 1773] which has now laid the foundation of those great improvements at present making in the iron trade as the iron when brought from under the hammer in the state of stamp iron is left to cool and afterwards broke into small pieces every one of which is examined and if found imperfect returned again to be further stamped and only the proper kind reserved to be made into bars. There is 21 reason to believe that iron of a more uniform quality and of a more equal goodness will be hereafter made by this process than has hitherto been by the charcoal fineries. The different ores used with the same fuel yield iron of different tempers. That ore called haematites or in the works the Lancashire Ore yielding a red short iron while the clayey ores of this country (Shropshire) yield a cold short iron.” Friday 22 Aug: “I this day wrote to Sir Joseph Banks President of the Royal Society an account of the meteor seen on Monday not supposing it had been visible at so many places as it afterwards proved to be. Went with Miss W, Mrs Blakeway and Mrs M to Benthall an old mansion house situated about a mile from Broseley and now occupied by Mr Banks the proprietor of some ironworks in the neighbourhood which are supplied with coal and stone from the old mines on this estate. in this house 22 besides a number of prints and maps with which the hall and staircase are adorned are many pictures of the former inhabitants of the family of ___ some of them by appearance painted about the time of Charles I and probably by Cornelius Johnson and other masters of eminence but now from the dirt with which they are covered and the darkness of the places they hang their merits cannot be seen. There are also some portraits still older than those abovementioned as appears by the dresses of the persons they represent. Not far from this house is a mount on the hill called Bentall Edge commanding a beautiful view of the Severn and the adjoining country as formerly described in my journal and from this hill which is of limestone the works in the neighbourhood are chiefly supplied with that necessary material for fluxing the ironstone. 23 This afternoon I directed a Mr Hartshorn of this town watchmaker to make me some wheels which I intended to put together and form a model of the engine at Bradley by which the hammer is worked. But Hartshorn never completed it to my satisfaction.” Saturday Aug 23: “I rode this morning to Shifnal passing over the Iron Bridge went up the high land called Lincoln Hill lying on the opposite side of Severn exactly over against Benthall Edge, and from the appearance leaves with me little doubt but the waters has at some distant period run over the top of both of them and this is much confirmed by the great variety of figured fossils chiefly of the submarine kind found on both these hills. From this side of Lincoln Hill is another beautiful and romantic view of the Severn and the numerous manufactories on its borders of which I have so often had opportunities to speak. Having passed the hill I soon came to Madeley 24 a small town in general but poorly built yet with some few good houses. In one of them lives Mr Ferriday an owner and manager of many coal works in this country, a civil, obliging and courteous man. I called on him but he was not at home. here too lives one Mr Edmonds a printer. He has cut a wooden block of the Iron Bridge and I purchased of him some of the prints. The road from hence is varied with hill and dale and in some parts the land very fruitful particularly in a fine plane near the town of Shifnal a market of considerable repute in the country and being in the high road between London and Shrewsbury is very much frequented. Here I visited Mr Stanier and Mr Young two surgeons of eminence and returning again through Madeley at the summit of Lincoln Hill turned on the right through a wood. From hence is a beautiful view of the other side of this eminence commanding a delightful prospect of the works at Coalbrookdale 25 where the fires of the furnaces, the water in the pools for the use of the mills, the verdure of hills on the opposite side of the valley and the number of carriages and people moving about the land contribute to render the scene most truly charming. I descended from this hill, dined with Mr Rathbone, visited Mrs Darby at Summerside and returned to Broseley to tea. In the evening we had a good many friends with us as Mr Wilkinson and myself were on the next day to set out for the North.” Sunday Aug 24: “While we were preparing for our Northern Journey, Mr Rowley came to me desiring me to visit another of his patients, the fame of my having cured, as it was called, Young Weaver having spread itself through the town. I visited the young man whose name is Simpson the son and nephew of two persons of that name, potters of considerable note in Broseley. I found the young man aged about 22 in a most deplorable state of a constitution 26 inclining to hectic of a deformed shape and now afflicted with an inflammatory fever with most alarming symptoms insomuch that neither his friends or myself formed any hopes of his recovery. He had run through the common farrago of medicine for many days without any benefit and though I much doubted whether anything I might do would be serviceable to him yet knowing that only from some extraordinary means any good could be expected, I ordered him to be immediately blooded, a large blister to be applied to his back and eight grains of James Powder to be given. And the same dose of the powder (if he was alive) to be repeated the next day, and every day after as long as it acted as an emetic. With these directions to his apothecary I left him and shall have occasion to mention him again in the course of this journey. 27 After dinner Mr Wilkinson and myself set out in post chaise for Shrewsbury where we arrived in the evening and found the account first printed in the Shrewsbury Journal concerning the appearance of the meteor was confessedly an erroneous one. We slept this evening at Mr Flint’s and on Monday Aug 27 went by Ellesmere to the court at Ellesmere. No horses being to be had we baited ourselves and the beasts from Salop [abbreviated term for Shropshire or Shrewsbury] and continued our route together to the Court Mr W’s near Wrexham. But at Ellesmere I first heard that the meteor had been seen at any great distance from the place where I had observed it for here I was told by a man who was on board a ship off Beaumaris in Anglesey that the meteor had been seen there and as it appeared to the eastward it must have been very high in the air or would have been hidden by the Caernarvonshire Mountains. 28 We got to the Court about 3 o’clock and after some time spent in adjusting ourselves went to the first mill towards Bersham. Here cylinders were boring, screws cutting, etc as usual. In the violent flood which happened soon after we left these works last year, the wooden trunk or aqueduct which lay over the river and served to convey the water from the cylinder mill to the meadows leading to the corn mill and Velin Bilston [no longer exists] had been by the force of the torrent washed away but was now effectually repaired by having two iron pipes about 14 inches diameter each laid across the bed of the river, their ends projecting some distance within the land. On each side between the banks of the river and the ends of the pipes, clay and earth are well rammed and the water passes through the pipes and rising again to its level is effectually preserved from any danger by land floods. Instead of the serpentine channel through which the 29 water formerly ran a straight cut has been made through the meadows, which will prevent those excavations which necessarily follow in the banks of winding streams and save a considerable deal of this valuable meadow land. We returned from hence to the Court and about 8 o’clock this evening I saw from the garden another meteor resembling what is usually called a falling star but much larger in appearance than any I had ever before seen of that kind. it consisted of one ball of bright white fire with several small sparks of red fire issuing from it. The light of it was very visible on the ground but in no degree to be compared with that seen on Monday last, nor was its duration more than two or three seconds. Its direction was nearly perpendicular inclining a little from E to W the sky very clear. There had been several showers this day with thunder.” 30 Tues Aug 26: “This morning Mr Wilkinson and myself went by the two boring mills to the furnace at Bersham. Peace being now restored the gun trade which used to supply so much business at these works is now stopped. The employment therefore is not so brisk as it used to be, but my industrious and ingenious friend whose thoughts are ever employed and whose purse is ever open to the increase of his manufacture is buried now in erecting machines for making bar iron with coke from coke pigs, and as the first trials by him are to be made at Willey and large fine castings are performed here more commodiously than at that work some double cogged wheels were ordered to be cast for the hammer mill at Willey. The valves or clacks for the fire engines on Mr Watt’s construction requiring to be very exact, no method had been yet 31 found out to make them sufficiently tight and strong enough to bear the repeated blows they are subjected to in their frequent and continual opening and shutting. It was now under trial to make them of iron on which a strong copper plate was riveted and soldered. For this purpose some good solder was wanted, and no one in the works knowing the composition I made some for them by melting ![[Pasted image 20231221125810.png]] of fine brass with ![[Pasted image 20231221125827.png]] of zinc in a crucible, the metals being covered with salt, and when the whole was in fusion pouring the matter into water. The workman on trying this composition declared it to be the best he ever had met with.” [SOLDER IMPROVEMENTS FOR WATT!] Wed Aug 27: “Mr Burton of Minera having sent over two horses Mr W and myself set out about 10 o’clock and travelled by the turnpike leading to Denbigh and at the distance of about 3 miles turning to the left we came to Mr Burton’s house. I quitted my horse 32 and accompanied Mr B on foot to the place where a pit is sinking for an engine shaft, it being intended to erect a steam engine here where hitherto only water engines have been used, but which as usual are found insufficient for the purpose of draining the mines. From hence we proceeded up the valley following the course of the brook which in some places runs over rugged beds of limestone in a most picturesque and romantic manner, the stupendous rocks on each side hanging over it and forming a wonderful scenery. This country has been long celebrated for its lead mines. The three principal veins are called the Stedvan, Llande and the Marian the last of which is the richest and has produced great quantities of ore and are supposed to have been wrought even by the Romans. There are therefore to be seen everywhere remains of pits and caverns dug in search of the ore, many of them very deep and hitherto water engines only having been made use 33 of for draining them. [STEAM POTENTIAL FOR DRAINAGE IN MINERA LEAD MINES] The works in this season are going on but slowly as the land waters are not in summer time in sufficient quantity to keep the wheels going fast enough to drain the pits. [WATER POWER LIMITATIONS] I walked to the top of the highest of the hills from whence in clear weather is a beautiful prospect of the mountains to the westward with the town of Llanarmon in whose neighbourhood as well as in all this range of hills are many mines of lead and lapis calaminaris. … 34 On our return Mr Burton led me to the top of one of the mountains and showed me a spot where the limestone lies bare and is furrowed by the weather or some other yet undiscovered cause in a more extraordinary manner than on the hill Blayth in Lancashire of which I have made mention in a former journal [when??]. Descending from these hills and passing down by the bed of the river I entered a cave formed in the rock, from which in rainy seasons a large quantity of water discharges itself into the valley bellow. This cave is supposed to continue a great length but at about 50 yards from the entrance is a pool of water beyond which no one has hitherto passed. Having no lights with us I did not go further than 30 yards into the cave. At the entrance the roof is low so that there is a necessity of stooping but it soon increases sufficiently in height to permit standing 35 upright in it.” etc etc on the caverns and some curious elements of them “We now returned to Mr Burton’s to dinner where an excellent repast had been provided by Mrs B who was the widow of one Mr Davis and having married Mr B he is become possessed of her fortune and on his land the fire engine is now erecting. In the afternoon we returned to Bersham by the road over the hill by the coal pits 36 having the brook on our right hand … This brook continues its course by Plass Power a good house belonging to Mr Lloyd and serves to work the mills at Bersham. It takes its rise from a fine spring among the limestone rocks over which we passed today. About 1.5 mile above the cave and the season being now very dry no water was found above that spring. Notwithstanding there is high above it a channel between the mountains which in wet seasons receiving the water which falls on them causes this now small steam so to increase in bulk and force as to carry away dams, bridges etc as happened more than once last year and occasioned the laying iron pipes in some parts to prevent all future damage. At the furnace more of the solder had been tried and approved” 37 Thurs Aug 28: “Opened Betty the servant maid’s foot and took out a thorn which had made her lame several days. It was now the first day of the Assizes at Wrexham and I waited on my friend Mr Justice Barrington with whom I found Lord Chief Justice Kennion. They invited me to sup with him which I declined but promised to dine with them on Monday next. I called on Mrs Newton and Mrs Bridges whom I had met at Miss Higgins but saw only Miss Meredith. The judges going to church I accompanied them where Ralph Taylor, Mr Wilkinson’s Man sung an anthem after service with the judge at the Court of Assize. The Court House is a large commodious room well fitted for the purpose. … Mr W found himself not very well.” 38 Friday Aug 29: “Between the Court and the furnace to which we went this morning the brook which yesterday in many places might have been forded without being over one[’s] shoes was this morning swollen by the rains to a very great height and afforded a variety of fine cascades. A fire being lighted in a wind furnace built on purpose for small trials, several attempts were made to melt in crucibles the metal obtained from Anglesey copper ore by fluxing it with peat in the blast at Wilson House. But none of our trials succeeded through [sic?] tried with mixture of zinc and lead. Q. What is it in this metal which renders it so refractory? It is of such a strong nature as to furnish a useful metal if it could be made to run so thin as to cast sound. It melts in the air furnace but is so thick that guns made of it are so honeycombed as to be useless. Returned home to dinner in company with Mr Smith of ___ who had called upon us this morning. He is of opinion the Minera 39 engine will effectually answer the purpose and be the occasion of a total change in the mode of working the mines in this country of which he is a good judge having long had a property in those mines.” Saturday Aug 30: “In our way to the furnace this morning we saw the cylinder for the Minera engine fixing on the frame for boring, and some guns purchased by Mr W were boring at the 2nd mill. The violence of the river was much abated and at the furnace some yellowish earth supposed to be the Anglesey lead ochre was mixed with copper and produced a brass, a plain proof these had been a mistake and that the earth in question was lapis calaminaris. This day I saw cast the largest pipe or cylinder ever yet made in a flask [a flask casting is made in sand in a reusable cast iron frame of two or more pieces that could be clipped together, usually for smaller, delicate, and more expensive items] being 32 inches diameter and nine feet long weighing 18 cwt. The metal received from the reverberatory furnace into a ladle was ladle was conveyed by means of a crane to the mould and poured in without damage. The core or what forms the 40 hollow of the pipe is a cylinder of iron full of holes round which is wrapped a kind of straw rope and that covered with a mixture of sand and horse dung spread smooth and even upon it to such a thickness as when dry is equal to the intended bore of the pipe. This is placed in the centre of the sand in which the external form of the pipe had been moulded and the melted metal running round it forms the pipe of the dimensions required. Mr Burton of Minera dined with us. Mr W. Johnson was taken ill and very feverish. Ordered him a dose of James’s Powder and calling upon him in the evening found it had a good effect.” Sunday Aug 31: “I saw William Johnson this morning and directed him to take another dose of James’s Powder. This day I was at church with the judges, the dean of St Asaph who is rector of Wrexham preached a very good sermon. Mr John Lloyd of Aberdynas [?] meeting me at 41 The Eagle the principal inn in the town proposed my accompanying him to dinner at Wynnstay the seat of Sir Watkin Williams-Wynn which I accepted . This seat is about six miles from Wrexham. In our way passed through Ruabon a pretty village near which the park belonging to Wynnstay begins. The house is partly old and part new, the rooms very large and commodious. The park is well stored with deer about 600 in number. In it are many fine oaks and great improvements have been lately made and are now going on, among the latter a large quantity of cast iron railing which encircles the pleasure grounds and has a very good effect. The rails are straight bars 1.5 in[ches?] square and about 6 feet high. In a sequestered part of the park rises a fine spring which being conveyed into a piece of ground richly 42 filled with orange trees, myrtles and other exotics and surrounded by a fine fence is let into a commodious basin and forms a cold bath near which is a room with apartments for dressing, etc. We returned from hence to the house from whence it was easy to see there were many fine views terminated by the distant Welsh mountains. … This being a public day a large company dined here and here I first tasted the fish called a Guinniard said to be caught into [sic?] in Bala Pool a large lake in Merionethshire belonging to Sir Watkin. This fish from its resemblance to the whiting is sometimes called the fresh water whiting and is very good though not equal to the salt water one. 43 After passing the day very agreeably Mr Lloyd and myself returned to Wrexham and in passing through Ruabon called on Mr Parry (son of the celebrated harper) who is a painter and some time since painted for Mr Lloyd the portraits of Sir Joseph Banks, Dr Solaner and Omai, the portrait of Solander being the only one remaining of him.” {William Parry 1743-91; portrait [here](https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw69742/Mai-Omai-Sir-Joseph-Banks-and-Daniel-Solander)} Monday Sept 2 [sic - should be Sept 1] “The trial of the Dean of St Asaph [he’d only just attended his sermon!] for the publication of a libellous and seditions pamphlet against the government. This circumstance as it had furnished matter of conversation to all the country had occasioned the assembling a vast concourse of people at the Assizes now holding in the town of Wrexham. Among the rest I purposed being present and though I went in the suite of the judges yet the crowd was so great as to render it extremely difficult for me to get admission. The counsel for the prosecution thought proper to stop the proceedings on account of 44 a paper said to have been circulated at Wrexham by the Constitutional Society of London in which the conduct of the dean was defended. The judges agreed this was a sufficient cause for postponing greatly to the dissatisfation of the people. The crowding I had undergone made it necessary for me to return to the Court to refit myself for dinner and in my way I met William Johnson whose fever had left him and he was perfectly recovered. I dined this day with judge Barrington in company with Mr York, Mr Pennant, Mr Kennion brother to the Chief Justice, the high sheriff, etc. As a mark of rejoicing for what was called the success of the dean a bull was baited which sport as it is called was in vain attempted to be stopped by my friend J Lloyd Esq who reasoned with them both as a gentleman and a magistrate. The Welsh women were particularly enraged at him for attempting it. Here this day I met Mr Boydell whose brother is of the neighbourhood. 45 This afternoon Mrs Flint, Miss Wilkinson, Miss Clayton and Mrs More came to the Court from Shrewsbury.” Tues Sept 2: “This morning I went to the furnace and desired the drawing of the rolling press might be sent to Mr Sherwin. A new water wheel is building. Upon the shaft are fixed two cast iron rings with hollow projections which serve as mortises to receive the wooden spokes. This mode has several advantages over the common one for as the shaft is by these means not cut and mortised and consequently weakened as usual, it does not need to be nearly so large and of such expence as common. But the spokes having their bearings several inches above the level of the shaft, they are shortened and act with more strength. The sole and buckets are all of cast iron. [IRON IN WATERWHEELS] A fire engine is also intended to be built at these works for a hammer on the plan of that at Bradley. Another large pipe was cast this day, and I found on examination that the first was quite sound. While we 46 were at the works Mr York and Mr Lloyd passed through them with guns and dogs and invited us to dinner on our return from the north. After dinner the female part of our company and myself entertained ourselves in Mr Lloyd’s woods at Erddig.” Wed Sept 3: “The early part of this forenoon was taken up in preparing to leave this rural spot and about 11 o’clock we set off in two chaises for Chester, where we arrived about one. Great rain fell this day and it being Assize time in this part of the country the horses were very much fatigued and those in Mr W chaise were so weak as to fall and I was obliged to send some from Chester to bring them on. The weather just permitted my showing Mrs More the Rows, walls and cathedral. I called on Mrs Whitby and there learnt that my neighbour Mr Dunn still continued ill. We dined at the Yacht Inn where W. Johnson and a female servant of Miss Wilkinson came to us. As also Mr Jones and Mr Burton of Minera with whom Mr 47 Wilkinson settled the business of the mine at Minera respecting Mr Hall of this city. In the afternoon I called on Mrs Hughes and found Miss Williams and her sister. Miss Williams returned with me to the inn. These young ladies were come from Anglesey to Chester to be present at the Oratorios about the 16th.” Thurs Sept 4: “We travelled this day by Frodsham to Warrington where we dined on Smelts etc. This town is celebrated for this kind of fish but I think I have eaten better in London than those we had today. From Warrington we went to Wigan and from thence to Chorley. At the first of these towns I showed my female companions some girls at work with that curious machine a spinning jenny. At neither of the towns were fresh horses to be had. We were therefore obliged to pursue our journey with the same cattle as had brought us, and arrived at Preston about 10 o’clock. The rain this day was excessive heavy but in the evening there appeared 48 the most beautiful bow [rainbow] I ever remember to have seen. Preston was still full of company. However at Coopers we got good beds.” Friday Sept 5: “We all left Preston this morning and travelled by Garstang where we breakfasted and thence to Lancaster and arrived there about 11. The post horses being all tired it was judged too late to pass over the sands. We called on Mr Roberts an eminent cabinet maker in this town which as I have before observed is much celebrated for manufactures of that sort. Mrs Roberts is a remarkably neat and agreeable woman. With her we drank tea in the afternoon. At this town I purchased a pair of coarse silk stockings and Mrs More an handerkerchief, the manufacture of the place. I saw also Mr Moss who had written to me on 49 a dye for cotton of a nankeen colour. He told me he had received orders from the Society at Manchester to dye a small quantity for them and that he had done so and sent it to Manchester for trial. [MANCHESTER SOCIETY???] Moss is servant to a chairmaker in Lancaster and employed in dyeing or staining wood for chairs. The market house with a court house over it is now finished in a good style after the design of ___ an officer in the artillery. … Saturday Sept 6: “The rain fell in great abundance however at 11 we set out in 3 chaises to cross the sands to Castle Head, Miss W, Miss C and the servant maid in the first, Mrs M and myself in the second, Mr W and Mrs F in the third. The immoderate rain which had fallen and now discharging itself from the hills rendered the sands extremely wet and increased the rivers to a very great degree but the bottoms being sound and level we passed the channels 50 without much danger though some water came into the chaises in our passage through the streams. Soon after we had crossed the channel we parted from the rest of the people who were crossing at the same time and who were going to Flookborough [Flookburgh] and other places in the western coast and turning to the northward bent our course toward Castle Head. Soon after we had passed the Holme Island it was necessary for us to go through another water called the Poo which is the tail of the River Winster. This by the rapidity of the freshes was cut into a deep gully and the first chaise which was only a few yards before us sunk in it so much that I concluded they were all lost and was preparing to get out in order to assist them but the driver and horses exerting themselves I saw them again rise out of the water on the sands. It was impossible in our situation to retreat. Ordering therefore our driver to whip on we passed the gully in the same manner 51 not without the imminent hazard of our lives. The last chaise keeping nearer the shore escaped somewhat better yet not without danger. We now soon landed at Castle Head where Mrs Wilkinson received us with that cordial hospitality I have had so many opportunities of experiencing and recording. The post boys endeavouring to return with the chaises to Lancaster one of them fell into the hole we had escaped from and it was with the greatest difficulty a horse was preserved from drowning and the chaise was not cleared in less than an hour and half and that with the assistance of all the men who could be procured to assist and at length they were obliged to go round by Milnthorpe home. In the afternoon the wind arose and blew a perfect hurricane insomuch that the roof of the coach house, stables and great part of the kitchen all which were covered with plate iron was torn off but fortunately no one was hurt by it.” Sunday Sept 7: “Mr Fletcher Stockdale and his father came to Castle Head this day yet the storm which still continued was now something less 52 violent than we found it yesterday. We amused ourselves with walking to the summit of the hill which we in general call the Head. Considerable changes have been made here since I saw it in 1781. The most material have been erecting a wall of a circular form enclosing a garden on the top of the hill. Several fruit trees have been planted on the outside of the wall and are to be trained through holes left for that purpose. By this means the fruit will have different exposures on the same trees. [AGR EXPERIMENTATION BY WILKINSON] The place designed to receive the remains of Mr Wilkinson (when he shall be called from doing good on this earth to receive that reward which such as he is have every reason to expect and no doubt of obtaining) is now completed. Six cases of cast iron are placed in a cavity cut in the rock to receive them, and in them are to be deposited Mr W and some select friends in wooden coffins, the ends of the iron cases 53 being contrived to take off and may be screwed on again with such inscriptions upon them as may be thought proper to commermore [commemorate?] the person enclosed. It was at first intended that this place of rest should have been in manner of a cave but that idea is now changed and trees and shrubs are planted which in time will form a grove. A walk is made on the east side of the hill about halfway from the bottom and being continued by the south side forms a kind of terrace round a great part of the hill commanding fine views over the sands when the tide is out and over a most beautiful sheet of water when the tide is in. The cast iron railing before the house and from it to the hill is also completed and has a good effect. Mr Stockdale senior left us this evening, his son Fletcher remaining here.” 54 Monday Sept 8: Storm returns, so they stay inside. “Two men from Hutton Roof in Yorkshire who had been employed as masons about the building came here this day. One of them was the person who when I was here before promised to procure me some black shiver which he did and left with the servant. This black shiver is found at Black Burton not far from some coal mines though it does not lie over the coal and is used by all masons in this country for marking stone with lines whereby to cut it. It much resembles the Italian black chalk but is somewhat harder. Perhaps if the veins of it were properly examined some of it might be found of a proper texture for the use of artists in drawing for which the Italian kind is sold at a high rate.” 55 “A young woman a servant in the house had a violent inflammation on one of her legs with much harness and a small ulceration. I sent for the surgeon at Cartmel who had attended her (Mr Coward). He had before ordered here a solution of sacc: saturn which I had applied abundantly yesterday. The leg was this morning much less inflamed than last night. When Mr Coward came we examined the leg and I directed an electuary of elect lenit [illeg] min with about 1 [grain?] of ipecac in each dose to be taken twice a day with a glass of lime water. … The large boat house was entirely destroyed and a great number of bricks that were ready for burning much injured by the rain … The river by the land floods has taken its 56 course through the canal. The reverberatory furnaces are pulled down and one built of such a construction as to catch the fumes of any ores melted in it.” [seemingly not about the flood, but a purposeful change?] Tues Sept 9: again rains Wed Sept 10: rain continues, the rivers are swollen “We were this afternoon at Wilson House and made an assay of a lead ore from a mine in which Mr Stockdale is concerned.” Thurs Sept 11: more rain causing damage 57 Fri Sept 12: more hard rain Sat Sept 13: rides to Cark with Mr F Stockdale to his father’s. “We found Mr Stockdale superintending a great number of men who were digging a mill race for a mill to be erected here for spinning cotton. Here formerly as mentioned in my journal in 1781 stood an iron forge used for making hoes and bills for America but that trade 58 on the breaking out of that cursed war having declined, the forge is now pulled down and a spinning mill is about to be erected near the spot to be worked by the water which runs over two wheels belonging to Lord George Cavendish which are now employed, the one for grinding corn and the other for making different kinds of coarse paper. The new mill will stand 150 yards below these and when these mills are raised 5 or 6 feet which the new Cotton Company propose doing will admit of a wheel 18 feet diameter but which will always work 1 foot in water and sometimes a great deal more. [breast shot?] The company propose laying out on this work £20,000 and of how great advantage such an institution will be in this hitherto poor village may easily be conceived. The water which supplies these mills is collected in the valley as it flows from the mountains and there is always a sufficiency for the use of the mills even 59 for the use of the mills even in the driest seasons. But now the great and incessant rains which had lasted more than a week had caused such torrents to descend from the hills as swelled the river which runs parallel to the mill race in such manner as to form a beautiful cascade of near half a mile long by which the water was discharging itself into the sea with amazing rapidity. To accommodate the people who are to be employed in the cotton work Mr Stockdale is about to build 20 new houses, ten in a row, one a little above the mill race, the other on an eminence over them. The houses will be 15 feet in front and about 20 deep supposed to let at 40s per annum. [MILL TOWN!] I dined with Mr Stockdale and his family where was Mrs Kirkes formerly Miss E. Stockdale who married in September last and became a widow in May and who expects every day to be brought to bed. Her younger sister is much improved and is a very agreeable young lady. 60 Mr Kirkes was so pleased with this country that before his death he began a house at Holker near Cark which is now almost finished and will probably be well let to some of the managers of the cotton works. It was great satisfaction to me to see Mrs Kirkes whose sweetness of disposition I had formerly observed bear her widowhood so well and enjoy so good health. Here I had some conversation concerning trussening timber which may be advantageously practised in the long beams of the spinning house on which there stands so many machines as to load them with a considerable weight.” Stays until 6pm then returns to Castle Head by Flookburgh, Grange and Lindale “not choosing to venture over the sands” because of the danger 61 Sunday Sept 14: Too stormy so spends the morning writing “and I gave Gilbert Gilpin some instructions for making cake colours. Mr Wilkinson having read in the first volume of the Transactions of the Society for Encouragement of Arts etc Mr Tugwell’s account of the turnip-rooted cabbage desired me to procure some seed from Mr T for him.” [WILKINSON IS AN AGRICULTURAL IMPROVER] Monday Sept 15: hard raid again, rides out to the Mosses: “it is worthy observation that the turnips which grow on the Mosses are remarkably sweet and tender while the potatoes on the same land are very indifferent” 62 Tues Sept 16: Hear in the morning that Mrs Kirkes gave birth to a son at Cark. “Mr Wilkinson and myself rode to Newton where we called on a Mr Hall a Quaker who gave me a singular stone found by him many feet deep having a round hole through it with many concentric rings within it, resembling at first sight a female screw but on a nicer inspection the lines are parallel to each other and not spiral as at first them seem to be.” Ride about a bunch but the flooding prevents their plans. 63 Walks to Wilson House with Mr W “and made some hard solder which turned out bad owing to a want of good brass” Sees a bunch of birds on the river Wed Sept 17: “This day was appropriated to the sports of the country. In the morning we rode to the hills with the dogs coursing but had no sport. In the afternoon fishing in which employment we had the assistance of Mr Turner. We caught many flukes and trout but neither of them good. Yet we got one large and excellent eel.” 64 Thurs Sept 18: Wilson House in the morning “and from trials I had made of some of the stones among the hills in this country I had reason to believe that some which would be useful both as rag stone and hones might be found in the neighbourhood. On mentioning this to the smith (Addison) he showed me some which serve the purpose of oil stones and are found near the spring called Holywell not far from Cark. The men were mostly employed in mending the breach made in the bank by the floods.” Friday Sept 19: more rain, “and having made use of a crucible belonging to Addison I sent over to Kendal for some by a carrier who goes from hence to that town every Friday” Sat Sept 20: 65 Killed a hare, went fishing and caught many trout Sun Sept 21: Rode to Cark, attended an excellent sermon at Cartmel by Mr Fletcher. He asks him if he would visit his wife’s niece a Mrs Settle who lives at Blaithe and is apparently dying from a difficult childbirth. 66 Mr Coward had delivered the baby, and he had given up on the mother. “I directed for her a large blister with a mixture of mithridate and vol alkali to be taken in large doses.” Mon Sept 22: “My first care this morning was to visit my patient who I found had rested better than usual and was somewhat better in all respects but all appetite for food had been lost several days nor had she any inclination towards it. I ordered her to continue the use of the medicines prescribed yesterday with the addition of a glyster to be given her every day consisting of half a pint of strong ale which was supplied by good Mrs Wilkinson and the yolks of two eggs beat well in it. This day Mrs Denny and Captain Herbert from grange dined with us” 67 Tues Sept 22: Calls on Mrs Settle finding her much recovered and “out of danger”. As she had been thought on the verge of death “her recovery was considered as a very great mark of skill in me and everywhere spoken of to my praise” Mrs Denny of Grange asks him for help in treating an asthma that had been bothering her for years. “Accordingly directed her apothecary Mr Gardiner to apply a blister and give her large doses of equal parts of Spt Nitr D and Tinct amar. For Miss Herbert I also ordered from Mr Coward vitriol virid cal pulo rhai [illeg various symbols] The giving these directions employed my morning at Cartmel where the two young Mr Stockdales 68 met me and we proceeded through Grange to Castle Head. As we rode over the sands we saw near Grange several small springs of fresh water issuing out of the sands which when the tide is in are covered several feet deep by the sea. … Wed Sep 23: “This day Mr Dowker intending to leave us and return to Kendal where he lives Mr Wilkinson and myself agreed to accompany him to Levens a large old house belonging to Lady Suffolk to whom Mr Dowker is steward. We travelled by Medip and Witherslack and as we were going down the hill near Whitbarrow Scar we were met 69 by a large company of women there being only one or two men with them. They were proceeding to the neighbouring woods with croched [?] sticks and bags to gather nuts. As these woods are the property of the Suffolk family and these people do much injury to them Mr Dowker in a threatening tone of voice ordered them to turn back and go to their respective homes which at first they seemed inclined to do but soon turning about again one of the most aged of the females advanced in a spirited harangue and resolute manner boldly put the steward to defiance, who notwithstanding his authority in the country thought it adviseable to give up the contest and we left the field to the heroines who pursued their way to their intended depredations claiming it as a right of inheritance so to do every year at this season. Levens is an old and stately house finely situated on the banks 70 of the river Ken over which here is a stone bridge, and near it is a beautiful park well stored with deer, and in it a petrifying spring mentioned in Gibson’s Cambden vol _ pag __ Having heard that Dr Watson Bishop of Llandaff was at this time on a visit to his brother in law Mr Wilson at Dallam Tower near Milnthorpe I determined to take this opportunity of paying my respects to him and leaving Mr W at Levens I rode on through Milnthorpe a pretty good market town and soon got to Dallam Tower a handsome house pleasantly situated and surrounded by a park in which are several hills having their tops planted with large clumps of trees visible over a great part of the country and greatly enriching the scenery of it. The bishop was not at home so returning by Levens Mr W. and myself rode back again to Castle Head to dinner. 71 Here we found Mr Gilpin from Kendal a hearty old man, father of Mr Gilpin at Bersham and grandfather of the young man of his name here. In the afternoon we went to Wilson House. Here a brick kiln is lighted and it was found that the bridge over the river Winster was broken by the falling of the house and orders were given for repairing it. This evening Miss Herbert came to Castle Head.” Thurs Sep 24: “It was proposed that we should go this day to Mr Knots, a gentleman of considerable property, at Water Head and leaving home pretty early in the morning we travelled to Cark to breakfast. It was in our way hither that Mr W first mentioned to me anything relating to Miss & Mr H__ [??] From Cark we went by Holker to a mine called Stibers Mine belonging to Mr Stockdale. Soon after we had passed Holker we came to a very rude country having some high mountains on our right 72 with large extended mosses bounded by the Ulverstone Sands on our left. Many of the hills are covered with wood and among them are several rills of water falling in beautiful cascades. Among these woods lay the mine but though Mr Stockdale the proprietor was with us it was with great difficulty we were able to discover it. The descent to it was extremely steep and rugged but when we got to it we found two men who had been employed in searching for lead ore of which they had got only a small quantity. There does not appear to be any regular vein and by the side of the hill runs a very considerable current of water with great velocity bringing sometimes down with it lumps of lead ore so that if any vein is in the neighbourhood it will probably be some day found nearer the top of the hill. The land here is very romantic and if in the hands of some person of taste 73 might easily be formed into a delightful spot. From hence we rambled over several high hills on one of which rises a fine spring and from them had extensive views of the adjacent sands and the country of Low Furness. Our way now lay by Backbarrow Bridge whose beautiful and very magnificent fall of water I have before had occasion to mention. Since I was last here great alterations and improvements have been made by the erection of a large cotton mill and many houses for the habitations of the work people and from the hills by which we descended to the bridge the view of this place is truly picturesque and entertaining. Although I knew I should find not difficulty in being admitted to a view of these works provided I made the request, yet as there was written in large letters over the gate “No Admission to these Works unless on Business” Mr W. and myself thought proper to continue on [our?] journey without asking to see them and 74 crossing the water at this bridge we continued our route along a very good road having high hills covered with woods on our left hand and Winander Meer [Windermere] on our left [sic, should say right]. At about four miles distance from Backbarrow we left the road and turning to the left towards the small town of Hawkshead we passed a beautiful lake called Elstead Water [Esthwaite Water] into which runs a piece of land in form of a peninsula where a house might be built and gardens laid out vastly more commodiously than on the island so celebrated in Windermere for here as there is a constant power of communication with the mainland by means of the isthmus which joins the peninsula to it all the inconvenience of an island situation is obviated at the same time that all the romantic beauties are retained.” [IMPROVING MENTALITY FOR BEAUTIFUL SCENERY!] 75 “About 3 miles further we came to Waterhead the house of Mr Knott, a gentleman of fortune and of excellent character in this neighbourhood. He is concerned in many ironworks in this country and in Scotland and proprietor of several mines of iron ore in Low Furness, the country where the ore called haematites is collected. The situation of this house is most romantic and beautiful surrounded on all sides except one with high mountains covered in many places with woods and having from one of the hills a most superb cascade descending into that charming lake called Conishead Water which fills the valley towards which the back of the house looks. Just as we got here it began to rain and the evening was passed in the house. Mrs Knott at this time lay in but the loss of her company was compensated by the lively conversation of her agreeable sister Miss Ford.” 76 Thurs Sept 23 [sic Fri Sept 25]: Rain continues, notes that there is a lake up a mountain “in which there are great numbers of trout and char carried thither out of the other waters by direction of Mr Knott”. Confined to the house all day by the rain: “Here I was shown some large and curiously formed specimens of haematites and which Mr Knott gave me but as they were too weighty for us to bring away he promised to send after me but the illness he was then labouring under was probably the reason of his delaying to forward them and his death which followed soon after will perhaps prevent my ever receiving them. They were the finest specimens I ever saw and one of them exactly resembled the hinder part of a human bust with shoulders complete.” [sidenote that he had since received this “fine specimen”] 77 “Here I also saw several Dutch trademen’s tokens found hereabouts, settled here some years ago. On the hills are hares in great abundance and a pack of hounds belonging to Mr Knott were brought out and passed in review before us on a grass plot. On the top of one of the mountains a copper mine has been discovered and worked but to no great profit, but the direction of the vein is such as to run under a lake which it is intended to empty by opening a passage from it into the adit of the mine and so discharge the water down the side of the mountain to prevent the danger to which the miners are now liable should the water by any means find its way into the mine.” Thurs Sept 24 [sic, should be Sat Sept 26] 78 Weather improves, has views of the mountains, woods and cascades - “romantic” “The lake extends about eight miles in length and half a one in breadth but the whole length is not visible from the terrace, the lake at about five miles distant turning to the left and is there apparently terminated by a fine hill covered with wood. The mountains round it reverberating any loud noise made on the terrace furnish an echo of a very particular kind and it was great entertainment to hear the effect of some small cannon fired from this spot. It was some seconds after the discharge before any returning sound was heard and when we heard it it was not a sharp report like that of the gun it originated from but seemed rolling 79 among the mountains like distant thunder for a considerable length of time and by firing another gun before the echo of the first is quite lost the sound may be continued in a very singular manner for any length of time. The garden is pleasant as well stored with fruits and from it we had a view of the hounds on the neighbouring hills who furnished us in two or three hours with as many hares. Leaving this pleasant spot we took the road on the left of the lake and travelled along it its whole length observing many beautiful falls of water running into it from the mountains which the rain that had fallen on the two preceding days had greatly increased. We saw also on the side of the water opposite to us several horses laden with copper ore and slate of which there is also a quarry among the hills. In the lake lies an island belonging to the Duke of Montague and on it were 80 many cormorants, ducks and other water fowl which with the boats sailing thereon tended much to embellish the scenery. At that extremity of the lake where it becomes so narrow as to resemble a river are some iron forges and woods which supply the charcoal for them and for the furnaces in this country all the iron made in this country being made by wood charcoal. [NOT COAL! WOOD ECONOMY STILL] Near this river we turned to the left and cross the water at Lowood Bridge near which is an iron furnace. From hence we rose a hill where a fine view of a beautiful valley presented itself with Backbarrow Bridge etc. From hence in a little time we came to Castle Head.” Sunday Sept 27: Goes to church at Lindale, visits Mrs Settle who was recovering. Dines with Mr Stockdale and his son and daughter. Afternoon Mr Hall of Newton, the son of the gentleman who gave him the curious 81 stone, “a young man of a fine person good accomplishments and excellent disposition.” Mon Sept 28: Goes to Cartmel, talks to the apothecary there about his patients. Then to Cark with Miss Stockdale to see Mrs Kirkes and her newborn son. Afternoon to Wilson House “where the bricks were burnt and from the nature of the clay I proposed trying at a little pottery for the use of the poor people about the works. The moss turnips should be mentioned not only as thriving for the use of cattle but as excellent for the table. Seeing some grouse on these mosses I was informed that sometimes 16 eggs of that bird are found in one nest.” Tues Sept 29: His helping Mrs Settle results in “a young woman of fashion came with her father 82 to consult me. Her case was a clorosis and I prescribed for her accordingly. Her name was Squires and she lived about a mile beyond Milnthorpe which by the road cannot be less than 12 miles distant. A child was brought to me (Betty Close) whose belly was enormously swelled and hard. As we were to leave Castle Head tomorrow I again saw and took leave of Mrs Settle, Mrs Denny, Captain Herbert etc leaving them perfectly satisfied and thinking themselves much benefited by my advice.” We Sept 30: 9am left Castle Head, Mr W and him on horseback, Mrs Flint and Mrs More in a chaise. “My friend Mr W who in all he undertakes endeavours at the utmost possible perfection has since I was last at Castle Head continued his improvements with his wonted assiduity 83 such as planting fruit trees, grafting the old stocks, cutting walks, making terraces and walling the garden at the summit of the hill, all which seem to answer the purpose intended very well and will render this spot when completed truly delectable. The sands were now fine and pleasant yet on their surface were small furrows evidently formed by the fluctuation of the sea waters on the return of the tide. These furrows so exactly resembled those I have seen on the top of the limestone mountains both at Minera and Blaithe that it is not at all improbable conjecture they both owe their forms to the same cause viz the receding of waters the only difference between them being their dimensions, those left on the sands by the tide bearing no comparison in point of size … I received a letter from Mr Paice of London informing me of the death 84 of my old and worth friend Mr Vickery of St Neots. We took chaise at the New Inn and travelled by Garstang and Preston to Wigan where we slept this night.” Thurs Oct 1: Left Wigan in the morning, passed Winwick “formerly celebrated as the most valuable church living in England though it must now perhaps give place to Mary lebonne [Marylebone] and some others. Yet it is still of such consequence as to be kept by the Derby family in whose gift it is for some of their younger branches.” Change horses at Warrington and Frodsham to Chester. Calls on Miss Williams and then in the afternoon got to the Court [Wilkinson’s Manor] near Wrexham. Fri Oct 2: “Mr Wilkinson and myself went this morning to Bersham where many plates were cast for precipitating copper in Anglesey [not just scrap!] and the water wheel with iron sole and ladles was finishing. It was our intention to have endeavoured to convert some iron made from stump [stamp?] iron into steel but none was come from the other works. A cylinder of near 5 feet diameter had a piece cut out of it and it was surprising to see how much it had warped. 85 Preparations were making for fixing up a hammer at these works to be wrought by a steam engine. No letter had come hither during our absence from Mr Sherwin about the rolling press. Mr Lloyd and Mr Fitzhugh came to the works and invited us to dinner.” Notes lots of wood larks in the area. After dinner writes to Mr Paice. Sat Oct 4: “I accompanied Mrs Flint and Mrs More to the works at Bersham where they were entertained by seeing a large pipes and several plates cast and on our return through the meadows it could not escape observation how fine a quantity of grass was now upon them owing to there having formerly been spread on them a quantity of bone waste that is the refuse of the turning and raspings of bones, hoofs, etc whose effect still remains and is constantly visible every summer and autumn. [FERTILISER] Charles Robinson who has the care of the boring mill for cylinders complained much of an ague that had troubled him some time. Ordered James’s Powder” 86 Mr Flint arrives in the afternoon from Shrewsbury Sunday Oct 5: Goes to church with Mr Flint at Wrexham, lunch with Mr Burton of Minera, afternoon at Mr York’s garden at Erddig “whose beautiful improvements and plantations, with the river forming a number of cascades render this place an high ornament to the country. Among the woods grow many dogwood trees whose berries produce a red juice which may probably be of use in watercolours.” Monday Oct 6: Rest of the party off to Shrewsbury while he and Mr Wilkinson to Bersham. “Charles Robertson [or Robinson] found himself much better though the powder had only sweated him. Here I saw some of those machines called by seamen jack in a box, the screw of iron and the box brass.” Afternoon go through Ruabon and Chirk to Oswestery, arriving about 7pm having had severe rain. 87 “During our journey hither, we lodged at the Bowling Green House a large commodious inn with excellent accommodations and civil treatment. here I first took occasion to mention to Mr W a method of diminishing the weight a horse is under the necessity of raising in drawing water, coals, ore etc out of deep pits by fixing a rope to the bottom of each bucket and communicating from one to the other. [INVENTION] Opposite the inn is a large church and adjoining the churchyard the handsomest house I saw in the town which on enquiry I found belonged to one Mr Lloyd an attorney.” Tues Oct 7: 8am sets out to Shrewsbury, through beautiful country with “fine verdant meadows on our left and high mountains on our right, among them the Breden Hills on which the column is erected in honour of Lord Rodney.” Pass through Kynaston village and cross the Severn at Mountford Bridge “near which the river runs among the woods” 88 Dined at Mr Flint’s at Shrewsbury with Mr and Miss Plimby, Mr and Mrs Peele, and Miss Wood. Afternoon to Broseley by the Iron Bridge. Moonlit evening to Willey Furance “where the new hammer mill was going with double cog wheels which are found to answer well” We Oct 8: On arriving yesterday at Broseley asks after young Mr Simpson “and was a little surprised and pleased to be told he was recovered of his disorder”. Simpson calls on him this morning “and followed us to the works wither we were gone before he came to us. As I had never seen him but in bed and in a state near to dying it is not surprising I did not know but he addressed himself to me with many thanks for me attention and I desired him to tell me how he had proceeded after I left him. He told me that having taken the dose of James’s Powder and applied the other medicines the powder had vomited him considerably and finding himself relieved by it he repeated it the next day as I had directed and so on successively for ten days it continuing constantly to act as a powerful emetic. But then finding himself quite well he had discontinued it and had continued in health ever since excepting 89 a hectic cough to which he had been subject many years. I advised him as he had found such singular benefit from vomits and as I knew the efficacy of them in such cases to take a dose of the same powder twice a week for six weeks longer and this he promised very readily to do. This was market day and walking up the town and calling on Mr ___ the barber I saw in a cage a curious blackbird having a fine white tail. In the evening while Mr W and myself were at the furnace I was much pleased with being accosted by Mr Collins and Mr White from Marylebone who had made a journey into this country to see the Iron Bridge and the works in the neighbourhood of it. It was their intention to have gone tonight to Bridgnorth in their way to London but we persuaded them to sleep at Mr W’s and the next day they should be shown the works completely.” Thurs Oct 9: Before breakfast he, Mr Collins, and Mr White walk to Caughley to see the porcelain works 90 Then to Broseley, and after refreshment Mr Wilkinson took them to the furnace “where my friends were shown everything worthy their attention and the whole of the machinery, furnaces, bellows etc explained to them much to their entertainment and satisfaction.” They accompany him to dinner with Mr Blakeway “and here much conversation passed respecting the election of Mr Collins member of Parliament for the borough of Wenlock where if he had thought proper he might without doubt have been chosen” etc about how nice this accidental meeting of his London friends was Friday Oct 10: Rides to Coalbrookdale to visit “my good friend Mrs Darby” then to Horsehay “where the business of stamping iron is begun. The water wheel too weak but here I was shown a steam engine on the old 91 construction but which from accuracy in the workmanship had the piston so tight as to work without water upon it and answered very well.” [IMPROVEMENTS TO NEWCOMEN ENGINES TOO] Dines at Ketley where “shown a knife of steel made from stamp iron the first that had been attempted.” On return to Broseley learns that Mr Gwynn [John Gwynn] “the architect who had built several bridges etc in this country and Mr Evans [John Evans, who had begun in 1776 but not published until 1795 - dedicated to Williams-Wynn] who has been engaged many years in a survey of North Wales and who Sir Watkin Williams-Wynn had desired me to see, had enquired for me and were gone to Wenlock” Saturday Oct 11: Rides to Wenlock with Mr Blakeway to meet them: “We found them surveying the ruins of the abbey among which are a great number of curious and singular ornaments particularly a frieze over one of the arches which would do honour to any artist who should adopt it. Mr Evans’s business was to learn the construction of the iron rolling press for Mr Sherwin 92 of which I gave him a full description and Mr Gwynn presented me with a print of the bridge built by him at Shrewsbury.” On return called on Mr Holmes and “came by the furnace where a mill for stamping is ordered to be built” Evening with Mrs Blakeway and Mrs More to the works and on return merry with large company, “to which the joyous disposition of Mr Parry much contributed” Sunday Oct 12: Left Broseley in the morning over the wooden bridge and through Shifnal to Wolverhampton where dined. Afternoon to Bradley “where Mr Cort [HENRY CORT] had been and persuaded Mr Threlkeld that the contrivance for which had obtained a patent would be of infinite advantage to the iron trade and to prove it gave him some wire made from stamp iron he had obtained from these works, a part of which 93 I brought away with me together with his letter on the subject. The engine was now mended and was said to work well but being Sunday we did not see it. We arrived at Birmingham in the evening and Mr Watt came and passed the time with us at the inn.” Monday 13 Oct: Morning spent visiting friends in Birmingham “and dined with Dr Withering it being the day on which the Lunarian Society dined with him. We had a large company of the literary persons of this town and its neighbourhood. Mrs More dined at Mr Watt’s and in the evening we left Birmingham in the coach to London where we arrived safe on Tues Oct 14 to dinner.” [NB was LUNAR SOCIETY meeting at LUNCHTIME????] ### 1784 to Wales & Lancashire 94 Sat Sept 4 1784: “Left London this day at 2 in the afternoon in company with Mr Williams in his phaeton with post horses changing at every stage we arrived at Stoney Stratford about 9 where we dined or rather supped having sent for Mr Harrison a steward of Lord Uxbridge who remained with us during our stay here.” Continued through the night as it was clear and the moon shining, arriving at 10am Sunday Sept 5 at Stone in Staffordshire where they breakfasted. Passed through Newcastle under Lyme “where we saw Mr Wedgwood junior his father and the rest of the family being gone to Blackpool in Lancashire.” Then to Congleton, where “we were stopped some time for want of a post boy” 95 “we left this town passing near the end of it a neat large building employed as a silk mill. It has the appearance of the completest and most pleasant manufactory I have ever seen. This road is the best I have travelled over in Cheshire and it was on this account we had taken it, the distance to Warrington being this way somewhat greater than by the road I had formerly travelled.” Arrive at 6pm in Warrington, change horses there, at Ravenhead at 8pm “having, from the time we set out yesterday, travelled 200 miles and I should mention that the servant who rode with us had gone 180 on horseback without stopping before Mr W. engaged to ride two or three posts while I took the man into the phaeton with me. At Ravenhead my friend Mr Michael Hughes received us with great cordiality in his new house and having regaled ourselves with a good dinner he had provided for us we were not long 96 before we retired to our chambers.” Monday Sept 6: “This morning Mr J. Wilkinson who had been informed of the time we were expected to be here, came hither having slept last night at Wigan in his way hither from Castle Head. With him came one Mr Prevot a French gentleman who had been with him some time but who still spoke English only indifferently and therefore soon joined in conversation with me happy as appeared to find one who understood the language of his country.” [SPEAKS FRENCH] “After breakfast we walked to the copper works distant about half a mile from the house Mr Hughes lives in. The works are much increased, the furnaces being now larger than when I was here last. All the labourers seemed rejoiced at seeing me again. Tom Williams who I sent here is well, has introduced his son to the work and his handsome daughter is married to a Sadler [or saddler?] in the neighbouring village but whatever they might think of me they did not seem much pleased with my French companion who 97 stuck close to me. I therefore soon resolved to walk up to the house of the late Mr Mackay and visit Mrs Turner. We passed in our way by the coal pits where everything is kept alive by the consumption at the copper works. I found Mrs Turners still that obliging person she had ever been but much hurt by the death of her friend and by some part of the conduct of the managers of the glass works. I returned through the pleasant woods described in a former journey to Mr Hughes to dinner where we were met by Mr Rigby, Mr Westwood, Mr Dunbavin, etc. After dinner Mr Wilkinson and his companion left us in their way to Wrexham. The proposal for making nails of hammered copper was now in agitation and to try the experiment fairly we agreed to slit some rolled copper at a mill belonging to Mr Rigby about three miles distant from these works. Thither I rode on horseback with Mr Rigby but the copper not being brought we entertained ourselves in viewing the mills and a canal cutting to 98 the coal pits of which there are many large ones in the neighbourhood. At a small distance from this spot are some copper works belonging to the Macclesfield Company and the manager lives in a very pretty house near the canal. We were treated very politely by him and his family and in his garden were shown the fatal depredations made on the fruit trees by the sulphurous fumes arising from the works.” Tues Sept 7: “Orders were given that the rolled copper should be at the mill by 6 this morning and we went thither. On trying to slit it cold it became so hard as to crack. It was therefore necessary to heat it when it slit perfectly well and some nails were made of it. This has been a good mill, the wheels 14 feet diameter some with double cogs of wood, but they sometimes want water. Returning to Ravenhead we again visited the copper works, and I collected some curious 99 crystallised slags intending to bring them to London on my return. A new work room is building with complete wind furnaces for casting copper or rather mixed-metal nails as crucibles are much wanted and finding a fire clay of excellent quality was dug about three miles off I again repeated my request that some trials might be made with that clay and powdered fire brick against my return.” [CRUCIBLE SHORTAGE?] He, Mr Williams, and Mr Hughes then set off in the phaeton for Liverpool where they arrived to dinner at the Lyon, “where as usual everything was badly dressed and the accommodations indifferent.” “I called on Dr Turner [Matthew Turner? - famous atheist, and the man who introduced Wedgwood to Bentley] who I found very busy in preparing for a Musical Meeting soon to be held here. Near the quay which is called Nova Scotia is a warehouse belonging to the Parys Mine Company. We hired a boat to carry the copper rods and cases over the water in their way to Holywell and another 100 to carry us to Eastham in our way to Chester. As in the evening Mr Williams had a good deal of company called on him we were shown into a large room in which a Club is held and Dr Turner being of this club came in and stayed with us a considerable time.” Wed Sept 8: 2am the boatmen called but it was almost 4am before they got on board “which did not fail to furnish those gentlemen an opportunity of showing that ill language is universal among all navigators of small vessels. Aboard on boat were some fish women and such company. The moon shone with great splendour. We soon passed a lighthouse, a large lime kiln, and at a distance saw the fires of a copper work, all which fires served much to embellish the scenery but before we arrived at Eastham the Sun that most glorious of all luminaries arose in clear and refulgent [shining with a bright light] majesty and irradiating with his [or her?] beams the shores on each side of us and the water on which we were gently and pleasantly sailing filled my mind with 101 such sensations as no other visible object can inspire. The morning was very fine and some porpoises playing on the water increased the beauty of the appearance round about us. The shore near Eastham is bold and rocky but on it grow many oaks which render the view of it from the water very picturesque. We breakfasted at the ferry house and here I enquired after Miss Manwaring who I had in the former part of this summer seen at Colchester and who at the request of Mrs Gray I had escorted to London. I was told she was at Chester whither we were going. Eastham is situated on a peninsula in the county of Chester having the river Mersey on one side of it and the river Dee on the other. This peninsula is called Worral [Wirral] and contains several villages. The land so far as we travelled seemed good, the crops were plentiful and the country very pleasant. A post chaise we hired at the ferry brought us in about two hours to Chester. We put up at the White Lion” 102 And so wrote to Miss Manwaring informing of his arrival and that he would wait upon her before leaving, which would be in two hours. “After equipping ourselves with clean linen etc Mr Williams and myself visited Mrs Hughes, Miss Emma Williams and I then walked to Mr Falconers at whose house Miss Manwaring and her mother then were. On enquiring I found Miss M had received my note but was notwithstanding gone out. On my expressing my surprise at such behaviour a voice from the parlour desired me to walk in and a very respectable lady who proved to be Mrs M enquiring whether I was the Mr More whom her daughter had met at Colchester and I answering in the affirmative she expressed with great warmth her concern at her daughter’s being out and immediately desired a young gentleman who was in the room to go in search of her. During his absence Mrs Manwaring told me that last year a person of the same name 103 with myself a dentist from Oxford had been to attend Miss M and behaved with so much impertinence that she was determined not to admit him again and supposing by the name I was that person, she had left the house to avoid seeing him. The young gentleman soon returned with an account of his not being able to find the young lady, we then agreed to go to a lady’s in the centre of the city where it might be supposed Miss was. In our way thither we met her and her surprise and concern at the mistake that had happened soon convinced me how much more than herself I had been to blame in not giving a more particular account in my note than I had done who I was and how I came to send to her; I ought to mention that Mr Faulconer when the mistake was cleared up expressed much uneasiness and most politely invited me to his house on my return.” Leaves Chester at noon, having met Mr Williams 104 in his own post chaise, the phaeton being left behind. Pursued road by Harden and Northop - “here we were accosted by a beggar woman who to excite our charity told us she was 104 years old and truly from appearance there was little reason to doubt the truth of her relation.” Left the direct road to Holywell and turning right came via a very indifferent road over several steep hills to Flint “a small town having a castle and jail in which a man was at this time confined for endeavouring to seduce some of workmen at the copper works at Greenfield to go over to France and manage a mill there.” [INDUSTRIAL ESPIONAGE] Then came to “a low marshy country extending on the right to the River Dee which however is at a considerable distance. It was not long before we got to a small village called Bagillt near which are some copper and lead works” 105 Then to “Greenfield Hall a large house taken by the Parys Mine Company of Sir Roger Mostyn on their building the large copper mill in its neighbourhood. Here we met Mrs and Miss Hughes who were lately arrived here from Buxton” … notes their “good breeding” leading to “politeness and ease”. After lunch “walked to the works which are distant nearly half a mile from the house having a road through a kind of park from one to the other. These works are erected on the famous Holywell Stream which issues from St Winifred’s Well and are the lowest except one on that water. They may well serve as a pattern for all works for they excel any I have seen in power, strength, and simplicity, the three most necessary articles for carrying on works effectually. The water wheel 106 which is 20 feet diameter now made 21 revolutions in a minute which is certainly too fast but they were only rolling bolts for shipping which are made in grooved rolls and wonderful it is to see how regularly and with what dispatch and seeming ease an ingot of copper is formed into a bolt 8 or 10 feet in length and an inch and half or more in diameter. Near these grooved rolls in which the bolts are formed is a pair of smooth rolls for sheets. When these are in use the engineer Mr Jones told me the wheel moves considerably slower. The head of water is well kept up and the banks which support it excellently constructed. In short it seems not easy to conceive a work in more perfection. A little below this mill another wheel is built of smaller dimensions and worked as an undershot wheel. This serves to work a large hammer for making bottoms for large coppers, etc. The copper is heated in a reverberatory furnace and several sheets being laid on one another they 107 are brought under the hammer and by dexterously turning them about so that the blows fall equally on every part they are at length brought to their required size and thinness. Within these walls and not far distant from this hammer is a place set apart for striking rings which being put over the ends of the bolts in shipping serve to have the bolts riveted up to. These rings are cut by means of a fly press out of solid plates of fine copper and thus are far more tough than any that have or can be made of mixed cast metal as has hitherto been the general practice.” Thurs Sept 9: “I this morning again visited the copper works, and being told that Mr Harrison the son of him to whom the premium was adjudged for the time piece for discovering the longitude was building a cotton mill higher up the stream I called on him. [William Harrison? - SON of John Harrison] He invited me to breakfast with him at a house he has taken at Holywell. Crossing the stream at the part where his mill is erecting we entered the 108 woods which cover and embellish the hills at whose feet the stream runs through these woods which it is hardly necessary to say exhibit a most delightful scene whether we consider the trees themselves, the rugged yet verdant declivity on which they grow, or the rapid stream with its numerous falls and mills which decorate the bottom. Through these woods are cut most delightful shady walks, one of which is denominated Cupid’s Grove, another Venus’s Walk and truly there are hardly anywhere to be found embowered shades more adapted t the votaries of love and beauty than these are.” etc etc on great views from the hill of the Dee, Wirral, and Liverpool 109 “Having breakfasted at Holywell where I was introduced to Mrs Harrison a very polite and obliging lady, I returned through the town and called on Mr Panton who was gone to his works at Bagillt. In our way back we passed by the famous St Winifred’s Well, a water I never look at without admiration and have no wonder that in the times of superstition and priestcraft miracles in abundance were attributed to it. It is without dispute the finest cold bath in the island and when the great use of bathing is considered there is no need of miracles to account for the cures said to be performed here nor will it appear at all surprising that those patients who found themselves relieved when all human assistance had failed should be induced by their ghostly fathers to erect over the spring that beautiful resemblance of a religious chapel which cannot be entered without veneration and respect. Bathing here is so general that in the basin formed just below the spring a number of young lads were now swimming in water clear as crystal.” 110 “Near this spot we met Mr Atherton who had been engaged at a very handsome salary and some other considerable advantages to construct a large cotton mill on the stream. This cotton mill belongs to some gentlemen of the name of Douglass and is intended when complete to contain 3,000 spindles. They are very cautious of admitting any persons into it so that whether it differs in its principle or form from those of Mr Arkwright I know not. But they say they spin finer than he does. Mr Harrison’s mill is lower on the same stream and is intended to hold 2,000 spindles. The walls of Mr Harrison’s mill are well constructed, the [jambs?] between the windows being built on reversed arches and it would be well if in all buildings where great strength is required that practice was generally adopted. After passing some time with a young man of the name of Dumbell who is engaged in the cotton works with Mr Harrison and appointing them and 111 Mr Atherton to meet me at Bersham on my return I went back to Greenfield Hall when Mr Wilkinson according to his promise soon met us.” Goes off with Wilkinson and Williams at 2pm to St Asaph to visit the cathedral “which is now finished and though small is very neat”, en route to Conwy. “The valleys between the hills were very fine, the harvest nearly ripe and good” — an annoying journey due to bad horses 112 “Some miles before we reached Conwy ferry we overtook two men on foot. One of them who was the best dressed of the two was a handsome upright fellow more than 50 years of age. As we passed them he saw Mr Williams in the chaise and knowing we were to cross the ferry he sometimes by running along the road and sometimes crossing a field kept before us till we got to the water where they both arrived sooner than we did. The chief of them was the ferryman and had directed the people at the house to get their fire lighted which is the signal for the boat to be brought over. As our chaise was to go over also, two fires were lighted and after some time waiting the boats came and we crossed to the town of Conwy. [TELEGRAPHY] The crossing ferries especially at evening is always a troublesome irksome affair and made our arrival at the Bull’s Head the best inn in the town no disagreeable circumstance.” Excellent supper of large herrings 113 from the Isle of Man and “a fish called here a bastard mullet, which is very good eating although not equal to the mullets of Hampshire and Dorsetshire. However with Welsh appetites, these fish, roasted chicken and apple tarts we soon found ourselves well contented” Friday Sept 10: Conwy “or Aberconway” very beautiful, with hills above full of “lofty woods” and large houses, and the castle. Goes with Mr Wilkinson to the castle walls for the views. 114 Notes the interesting construction of the 500-year old gateway, which “had some of our more modern artists paid as much attention that circumstance we should not have heard of so many bridges having fallen as have lately done” Travelled to Bangor, with good views, “the harvest rich”, 115 etc etc on the views like last time 116 Passed the seat of Lord Penryn “a pleasant and well cultivated spot”, and then into Bangor where they breakfasted: “at an inn near the sea where according to custom eggs were served up with our tea”. Ferried over the Anglesey, and arrived at Llanidan at 12 noon. There received by Mrs Williams, the second son, and Miss Jane Williams who played them “several Welsh tunes on her pianoforte whose melody was greatly heightened by the cheerfulness of her countenance and behaviour” 117 Mr Goodman dines with them, and in the afternoon entertained themselves in a boat on the water, crossing to Caernarvonshire to examine “some veins of coarse ironstone intermixed with white earth”. Weather was so good at night “we had a fine view of the planets Jupiter and Saturn through Mr Williams’s excellent telescope. Jupiter was remarkably beautiful.” Sat Sept 11: “My two friends and myself had agreed to ride this day to a mine Mr Williams has lately purchased at a place called Drwsy Coid [Drws-y-Coed] situated among the Caernarvonshire mountains”. Left at 9am. “This road does great credit to the gentlemen of the country for formerly the way lay by the water side and was frequently dangerous and always inconvenient”. … 118 At Caernarvon took a view of the castle; “many of the houses are neat and make a good appearance. It was market day and the whole place seemed very populous. As we were walking along the principal street we saw at a considerable distance a man with something in his hand which we took to be a large woman’s straw hat, but one of Mr Williams’s servants came running towards us and said a man had found a target. By this time the man had got to us and said in Welsh for he could not speak a word of English that he found it in a peat moss or turberry [turvery] and that he was carrying it to a brazier who he hoped would give him a saucepan for it. We secured the 119 target or shield which has since been twice exhibited to the Antiquarian Society being introduced by Mr Brereton to whom I wrote on that subject a copy of which letter is annexed.” [ARCHAEOLOGICAL FIND!] “There were in the market a large quantity of straw ropes, mattresses of straw which are used for beds in this country, and many other things neatly made of the same material which are chiefly manufactured at Newbourg [Niwbwrch] in Anglesey. The ropes are of great service in the very neat thatching of the hay and corn ricks of which I took notice in my former tour to this country and Mr Wilkinson was so pleased with them that he ordered a large cargo of them and a man used to thatching to Castle Head to instruct his people in that kind of work;” Etc on a terrace or mall with views 120 etc etc on the castle’s history - some dwellings in it “but the far greater parts are inhabited by crows, jack daws, etc” Set off southwards passing over one or two bridges - “the season being very dry the rivers had little water in them” 121 Rode gently about an hour meeting many people on the road heading to Caernarvon, then turned left off the turnpike and on the mountain road and soon “passed a well built modern house much resembling the villa of some wealthy citizen at Hackney” which he found stood out awkwardly. “We now met some carts loaded with slate, the horses all harnessed with straw saddles and ropes such as are universally used by the common people here and what we saw so many of at Caernarvon. Not much further on we came to the quarry where the slates are dug 122 and where several people were employed in raising and slitting them. The quarries are large and great quantities are annually transported from hence to London and other markets.” very slatey and difficult road, but then arrived at a small green valley with several trees - quite rare among these mountains 123 etc etc on how he notices the exact spot from where Mr Wilson took his views of Snowdon, as shown in the print of the original Went through the pass called Drws y Coed “of the Door of the Wood” - narrow, rough mass “As we advanced we were met by one of the miners who had observed us coming. The first object that attracted my attention was a fine cascade of water issuing from the top of the mountain on our right hand from a hollow not ill resembling the crater of a volcano which perhaps it once was; the water fell even at this dry season in a large stream and not less than 100 feet high” [thinking about water power??] 124 “In less than half a mile we came to the ruins of several cottages which were formerly the habitations of the miners who were employed in searching for copper ore in these mountains of which some quantity is still got here, for Mr Williams having lately made a purchase of the mine employs some people who get a little ore which is of a good quality and lies in a quartz stone, the mountains here being generally quartz or shale. Here they have erected a smith’s shop and fitted up a dwelling or two to reside in but surely a more dreary and inhospitable spot can hardly be found. There has formerly been a water engine but from time and neglect it is totally decayed. During our stay here we were entertained with the firing of a volley of miners’ cannon whose reports re-echoing from the mountains sounded like loud and yet distant thunder. These cannon are no other than holes about 3 inches deep and one in diameter made in a large piece of 125 rock that at some distant period had fallen from the higher parts of the mountain. These holes being made at nearly equal distances from each other and having a groove cut from one to the other were filled with gunpowder rammed and a train made in the groove were fired and the effect was not an unpleasant one. As the ore lies embedded in the stone in small veins it is reduced to powder and washed clean from all the stony parts and so carried to Ravenhead to be smelted. I brought away some samples both in the stone and washed.” [not clear what the “cannon” is for] They observe a vein if spar near the summit of Mynydd Maur, and dispatch one of the men with a pick to search and bring some down - “it was surprising to see with what dexterity and agility this mountaineer skipped over the rocks” returning in about an hour 126 with some pieces of rock covered i white moss that had at a distance given the appearance of spar. Continued further up the mountainous country with Snowdon before them, “and we rode by the side of a rapid but small stream which had formerly been applied to the working the water engine at the mine.” etc etc on the views of the mountains at a lake that they reach The others went on down while he stayed for more views, but “on turning about the mare I rode missing her company trotted quick down the side of the hill and passing through a narrow way plunged immediately into a bog. I disengaged myself from the stirrups and throwing myself off got safe on solid ground 127 while some of the servants running up to us got the mare out without damage. We now walked across some boggy green sward to this Llyn y Dywarchen or the lake, having on it a floating island.” etc etc about how it’s just a bit of turf or peat that had broken off the shore etc etc views 129 “Our journey to the spot we were now on was to see whether the water of the lake with the floating island could not be turned this way and thus made to serve the purpose of turning a water wheel if hereafter one should be erected at the copper mine. Having seen that such a scheme is easily practicable we returned again” to the foot of Snowdon 130 etc etc views “the lake [presumably Llyn Cwellyn] continues about a mile in length and then contracting again forms a river and turns one or two small mills near which is Bettus [must be Betws Garmon?] a small village where we dined on good eggs and bacon” Back through Caernarvon, crossing the Menai to Llanidan about 8pm 131 Sunday Sept 12: Stayed home to write, as the church service was in Welsh so would not learn much “A camera obscura which Mr Williams had bought being much out of order I gave instructions to his carpenter to enable him to put it to rights again.” Mrs Goodman calls on him and walks with her family to their house at Porthamel about a mile away on the banks of the Menai 132 “This day Lord Uxbridge, his brother Mr Bayley, a Mr Thomas and a Mr Griffith of Caernarvon dined with us.” etc etc on the weather and a beautiful sunset - again view Jupiter and Saturn with the telescope 133 Monday Sept 13: Having discussed the purchasing of the ancient shield the night before, Mr Griffith sent over for him two ancient gold rings to have a look at - “they had nothing very extraordinary about them except that one had a small stone set in it but whether it is a paste or a real stone I could not determine” “I wrote to Mr Vickery of St Neots desiring him to obtain if possible of some people at Kimbolton intelligence about the man in Flint Jail” 134 Then set off through the centre of the island. Notes that from Llannerch-y-medd to Amlwch is “a new road made of good materials and in a good state”. “The houses here have increased in number most surprisingly and as much so with regard to form and convenience” Spent some time at Parys Lodge and examined its garden with “a considerable number of peach and nectarine trees whose fruit however was hardly yet ripe” “After dinner we walked to the port where a mole has been built for the safety of the vessels employed in the copper trade, and not far distant on the hills by the sea side are several kilns for calcining the ore, some upright of a round and others of a square form, and other covered ones 135 of an oblong form 31 yards long and 4 wide. In the former ones the ore is filled in near the top and taken out at the bottom as in perpetual lime kilns. In the others the ore is calcined by being first set on fire by a small quantity of fuel after which the sulphur of the ore is sufficiently inflammable to complete the calcination.” Mr Williams caught up with them when they returned to the Lodge “and during our conversation this evening among other topics speaking of the strength of the rolled copper bolts it occurred to me that barrels of guns or small cannon made of such metal might be useful and it was agreed that some metal should be prepared and sent to Bersham for trial against. Mr Wilkinson and I got there and thus began the hint of copper barreled guns.” [MORE THE INVENTOR!!!] Tues Sept 14: 6am breakfast then off to the mine “with Mr Stephen Roos [or Rees?] one of the agents at the work. On the road we met his brother who is also an agent in the mine. Great alterations are made in the whole appearance of the business. The woman who I formerly noted in men’s cloths still works here in the same garb. The women who are employed in breaking the ore into small pieces for burning have pieces of strong plate iron formed into cylinders with which they cover their fingers to prevent injury from the blows of the mallets the use, and of which as curiosities and to show the difference between them and the silver thimbles of the London ladies I desired one or two to be sent me. [SAFETY TECH] The open cast or that part into which the carts drove is now quite changed, the columns of copper ore cut down and the ore is now drawn up in kibbals or buckets, and in one part a vast quantity of the earth and the lead or which 137 lies above the copper is fallen in. The pits in which the copper is precipitated by iron plates are greatly increased in numbers and although the cast iron plates answer tolerably well yet as it had been proposed to soften them by annealing supposing that would enable the copper water to act more readily upon the iron, a thing I believe which will not answer, I proposed the use of stamp iron for the purpose which surely from its nature would do well, but the irregularity of its figures would be subject to more inconveniency than advantage. While here I was shown a fellow who by accident had drank a considerable quantity of the strong copper water without any bad consequences. He had gone to bed in liquor and waking in the night reached a bottle which he thought was filled with small beer and putting it to his mouth swallowed near a quarter of a pint of the copper water before 138 he perceived his mistake. The nauseous taste and fright he was in lest he should be poisoned soon sobered him and after a pretty severe purging and vomiting he recovered and felt no further effects from it” etc on view: “numbers of people were busied in the various operations of digging, wheeling, drawing up the ore, while others were breaking it and carrying it to the kilns which were smoking on the top of the hill” “From attentively viewing the line in which the ore lies in this hill I cannot help thinking that it probably stretches under the sea and is found again in the mountains of Wicklow in Ireland where a copper mine is which furnishes 139 a water yielding copper by precipitation by iron as described in the Phil Transactions.” “as by the falling in of the earth and lead ore there was reason to believe some of the fine crystallisations of lead that are peculiar to this mine might be found I desired Mr Rous to save them for me and going into the Compting House where several specimens lay particularly of the red lead ore or native min [iem?] I chose some of them which were to be sent me. We returned from the mine by a road which led to the farm the company has purchased. Here all things are carried on upon a scale before unknown to this country. For here are stables for 48 horses so many being employed in bringing the ore to the port etc besides numbers which the country people let for hire. Large hay ricks thatched in the neat manner practised in this island. A smithy, a saddler’s , and a carpenter’s shop etc etc. All in good order are scenes to which the inhabitants of this part of Anglesey have till of late years been unaccustomed to; the work carried on by the 140 Macclesfield Company is not so full of work as it was when I was here before and as their lease from Lord Uxbridge expires at Michaelmas 1785 it is supposed his lordship and Mr Williams will take the work into their own hands. As the expence of carting the ore from the mine to the port is very considerable it was proposed to cut a navigable canal into the hill to meet the mine and thereby furnish a means of bringing the ore down by water, a scheme Mr Wilkinson offered to engage in; we dined at the Lodge and were entertained in an elegant style, with nectarine tarts, etc for the butler and housekeeper who are man and wife are people of taste and furnish a table with great taste.” After dinner get into a pleasure boat to see Mouse Islands, seeing various birds 141 “Near the port is laid a large buoy for warping vessels in. The whole port, its mole, etc make a very different figure from what they did when I was here last, much money having been laid out in improving them.” Went over to the kilns “from whence was issuing a most violent smoke, but as the wind blew towards the sea we were not incommoded by it. I gathered a little sulphur as it was sublimed from the ore.” At the Lodge meet Dr Roberts, the Company’s physician - “I learned that he had the care of 3,000 persons belonging to the mine.” At night the Parish Officer brought a woman whose husband “was gone mad” who they wanted to remove to his own settlement in Caernarvonshire, but as he worked there Williams gave orders he should not be removed 142 and Wed Sept 15 More went with Dr Roberts “to visit the madman whose name was Evan Price and who lived about a mile from the lodge. He had been attended by a doctor of the country who had been crazy himself and from that circumstance had got the name of Bendrow or Vertigo. He had put handcuffs and feetlocks on the patient who lay on his bed in a very raving condition talking only Welsh. I was informed the cause of his complaint had been too great attention to an old Welsh book written in the manner of a dialogue and full of religious controversy. I directed the usual remedy of bleeding, vomits, purging, etc but the case seemed a desperate one. The cottage the man dwelt in was as poor a one as can well be conceived, but in it were several women and children one of the latter as beautiful as can be imagined but wretchedly infected with the itch. Indeed in this island the lowest people particularly the women are remarkably handsome.” 143 Sails from Amlwch at 10:30am with Wilkinson aboard The Providence, Captain Henry Daniel, “laden with copper ore, precipitate and calcined for the works at Ravenhead, a plentiful supply of various provisions, as mutton, crabs, lobsters, and brandy being sent on board with us. The crew consisted of the master, two men and two boys, and with us were two passengers one a woman from London, the other a hog who was confined to the hold among the ore.” Pass a Dutch galliot, a packet from Ireland, lots of sea larks, 144 and many other vessels in sight. Were stuck lying to in a swell overnight as they missed the tide and would otherwise get stuck on the sands at the entrance to the Mersey: “the tumbling motion soon made me most immoderately sick, and as there was only one watch aboard and that in my pocket I frequently examined it to learn when the wished for rising of the Sun might be expected” Thurs Sept 16: 145 Along with the other vessels who had also been forced to lie to, they all come in with the strong tide at 8am towards Liverpool: “the entrance from sea into the Mersey is far from being a safe or pleasant one and when the vast commerce of Liverpool is considered serves to prove that it is not to the convenience of situation so much as to the industry and attention of the inhabitants and this is hardly anywhere more clearly exemplified than in this town where the river on whose banks it is built is so improper for ships to lie in that docks are formed from the reception of all vessels coming hither and like many other instances what was once considered as a matter of necessity is now become the greatest ornament of the place, these being docks being constantly shown to strangers as the most curious as indeed they are.” [LIVERPOOL NOT good for trade???] Went to The Fleece inn for breakfast in Liverpool, and took a chaise to Ormskirk 146 at 10am, it having been difficult to obtain one “the town being very full owing to the Musical Meeting being at this time held in it.” “Ormskirk is a small market town” - nothing remarkable except at the end “that old fashioned but perhaps well designed instrument a cucking stool. Near it Colonel Mordaunt has a cotton mill but no great work is done at it on account of the want of water.” [WATER INSUFFICIENCY - RETURNING ENGINES NECESSARY] Market day, but not many people there Left through a “pleasant country through which runs a canal designed to reach Leeds. On it we saw four boats pass while a bridge we were to pass over was kept open for them. We crossed the canal four times this morning so much does it serpentine in its course.” Eventually got to Preston, then via Garstang to Lancaster “where we put up at Reynolds’s the new inn. Supped well on sparlings, soles, etc” - “excellent accommodations” 147 Friday Sept 17: 6:30am the tide being out they left Lancaster and crossed the sands to Castle Head. At Castle Head “many improvements still continue to be carried on and the most conspicuous at this time was that a considerable part of the rock which faces the sea to the eastward has been covered with green turf forming a fine contrast to the stony and rough places which hang over it and having mixed among the verdure some large stones projecting which have a very romantic and beautiful effect.” After their post-travel “necessary ablutions” walked up the hill “where it is pleasant to observe how all the grafts made on old and apparently decayed stocks thrive, and by way of experiment it is proposed to engraft Libernums Lelacks [?] on some of the ash trees and currants on the buckthorn which grow wild in abundance here.” 148 “The engine house is finished but the scheme of building an engine being at an end, the house is converted into an apartment for the gardener and stores, rooms, etc.” [does NOT install an engine] “In the upper ground the peaches and nectarines thrive exceedingly. The scene here is so changed from what it was a few years since that the country people are continually coming to look at it and this day several people came and when they were gone some fruit was missed particularly a pear the single one on a tree grafted two years before and which we wished much to taste. This occasioned my friend to order an inscription on the gate at the entrance into the grounds denying admittance to all but those who come on business. The servant’s (Molly) leg which was last year in so indifferent a state was now perfectly well only by the use of a solution of lead in vinegar.” 149 Rode to Wilson House. “Improvements on the Mosses are carrying on with great spirit and success and a thousand pounds worth of lime has this year been burnt and spread on them. The lime is burnt with peat and charcoal. That excellent servant Thomas acts as bailiff. Gilbert Gilpin having taken the dog victor with him brought in a hare. This day’s post brought Mr Wilkinson some letters declaring the Dutch were likely to be engaged in a war with the Emperor and giving orders for guns for the Navy. I wrote to Mr Williams of Llanidan” - then went fishing and caught 20 flukes Saturday Sept 18: Rode through Lindale on horseback, called on reverend Mr Fletcher “and gave directions to his son to apply for the money I had endeavoured to procure for him.” Saw Mrs Settle who had recovered, and Miss Herbert, Mrs Denny, and Captain Herbert. At Cark: “The outside of the cotton mill which was building last year is now finished and 150 is calculated to work 3,000 spindles. The corn mill and paper mill are both altered and improved, the wheel of the former being raised to 12 feet diameter and made 14 revolutions per minute. To this mill was added a winnowing machine on the principle of Mr Evers’s [WILLIAM EVERS!] and at this paper mill I first saw that the light blue paper owes its colour to being made of blue rags which are carefully separated from other colours for that purpose. The water way from these mills to the cotton mill leaked and they were pudling water with clay, which was always Mr Brindley’s mode and succeeded well in this place. I dined at Mr Stockdale’s with Mrs Kirk and her young son a fine child and the rest of the family.” Returned by Cartmel and went on a fishing party in the evening where they caught many flukes “but some salmon escaped us” 151 Sunday Sept 19: Church at Lindale “where Mattinson appeared dressed in some clothes I had sent him, and the ladle I had desired might be fixed to the excellent spring in the church yard was done.” [IMPROVER!] Is a bit miffed that Mrs Settle, whom he had saved, took no notice of him at church, but Mrs Fletcher says she’s naturally shy. Sky threatened rain “and Mr Wilkinson considering of what great importance it is to secure his crops gave orders that the people should go to the mosses in the afternoon and bring off such corn as was ready. This the people had sense enough to comply with” 152 People came to see the improvements on the hill but were denied admittance because of the fruit stealing Evening “rode to the mosses where great burnings were carrying on and frequent ploughings were recommended. It was agreed to convert an old furnace which is of a conical form 30 feet high and 14 feet diameter at the base into a granary leaving one of the fire places occasionally to light a fire in and an iron pipe to serve as a chimney. This will serve to dry or warm the different chambers into which the building is divided.” Monday Sept 20: Notes how they took a course up the hills “one of the terriers followed a sheep and led one of the greyhounds after it, but the terrier paid dear for it being hanged as soon as the coursing was over” !!! 153 They started no hares “so the diversion as it is called ended in the worrying one innocent animal and hanging another” “The bricks which began to be made at Wilson House last year are now much improved, and some Welsh men from Wrexham brought hither by Mr W. have built an excellent brick wall and the copings of the doors are ornamented by painting the bricks with the calcined lead ore of Anglesey which has a good effect very properly contrasting the other bricks which resemble in appearance the grey stocks used in London. As the farming here is increasing at a great rate and many of the poor people are supplied with food from it a killing house for slaughtering the cattle has been built and fitted up in a neat and commodious manner. Instead of wooden beams to which the carcasses are hung there are iron pipes fixed from one side to the other which look neater than the common method. And adjoining to the killing house is an 154 ox house for feeing cattle in which 30 beasts may be commodiously fed. This too is more neat than any I have seen, the iron pipes which had been intended for the engine at Castle Head being converted into columns for the cattle to be fastened to, and thus the house has an appearance of elegance to it. In the garden I was much delighted by the appearance of the turnip-rooted cabbage which had been raised from seed I procured from Gloucestershire and sent hither. This plant which is much more hardy than the common turnip promises to be of great value in this part of England. It thrives most luxuriantly and as cattle and sheep feed well on it there can be no doubt but it will in time become an object of great importance in the agriculture of the North where the common turnip is so liable to be injured by frost which this kind suffers no ill from.” [SURVIVES THE WINTER] 155 Notes a spot on the Mosses where Miss Wilkinson will be creating a garden with grottoes, so is to be enclosed. “On these formerly barren grounds and over which neither man nor horse could travel it furnishes an attentive mind with the most pleasing reflections to observe good crops of oats, rye and barley growing with here and there large spots covered with turnips, turnip-rooted cabbage, hemp, flax and coleseed all in a thriving condition. Of how little value is rank and nobility when weighted against the intrinsic worth of a man like my friend who employs his fortune not in supporting the pomp and idleness of servants but in furnishing means of comfort and happiness to all the industrious 156 inhabitants of that great circle of country in which all his great works are carried on.” … Tues Sept 21: Rides towards Kendal, passing through the village of Witherslack, by the moses to Levens, where he misses Mr Dowker, then via Sizergh a house belonging to Mr Strickland. Kendal: “a large and populous town famous for stockings and a kind of strong woollen cloth called Kendal Cottons” 157 Mr Dowker has a “severe fit of the stone” so cannot stay with him. So dines at the King’s Arms a good inn with “excellent trout, beef steak, jelly and tart” for which he was “charged only one shilling.” “Here I sent for Gilbert Gilpin Senior, Thomas Cornthwaite, the locksmith and went with them to some cotton mills which Mr Cornthwaite is erecting and proposed to them the use of friction wheels for the waterwheel and double teeth for the cotton mill wheels. Here too I saw a man of the name of Horn who pretended to have been of many trades and to have invented a particular tooth for saws which he imagined to be of great use and was afterwards sent to and examined by the Society but found of no consequence.” [FAILED INVENTOR?] 158 Returns through a lot of rain Wed Sept 22: Rode coursing on the hills killing three hares and a weasel. They were joined by a Mr Slater who saw them at this sport “and being celebrated as the most keen sportsman on the hills contributed perhaps to the success we had”. Spent the rainy afternoon answering letters that have been brought, and writing to Mr Harrison at Holywell and Mr Williams at Llanidan so that they could meet up again at Wrexham 159 Thurs Sept 23: “We were again to view the buildings at Wilson House where the cart sheds are to be supported with iron pipes for columns. Captain Herbert and Mr Hall junior joined us here and were greatly pleased with the flourishing appearance of the turnip-rooted cabbage.” a Mrs Johnson brought to him as a patient for migraines Supper and stays overnight at Mr Stockdale’s in Cark Friday Sept 24: Sets out with Mr F. Stockdale on horseback to tour Low Furness. Passed Holker the seat of Lord G. Cavendish. 160 Blocked by the high tide from crossing the ford so rode up the channel for a while and “a cart from the paper mill coming up we passed the river after it having many peat carts in our rear which were crossing with fuel to Ulverstone and its neighbourhood” On the way to Ulverstone about a mile they passed “a cotton mill lately built by Colonel Mordaunt who has been before mentioned but this mill like his other is not likely to do much work, the tide flowing up to it and impeding the wheel.” Ulverstone “a good town” but unremarkable, then came “to the iron mines with which this part of Lancashire abounds [NB this was Lancashire at the time, but is now in Cumbria], and which is carried from 161 these parts not only to the ironworks in the northern parts of this and the adjacent counties but even into Wales and other works in the middle of the kingdom. The ore is of the kind called haematites or blood stone and is very rich in metal, but fine and beautiful specimens are very rare. It is found in many places intermixed with limestone, spar crystallised, some of which I collected. On our road we met a man named William who has the superintendance of Mr Stockdale’s works in these mines who told us the ore lately raised is but indifferent but promised to procure me if possible some good samples. At Dalton we stopped to dinner. This is called here a Charter Town but is a poor place. However a hunt is kept at it. The church is decent and pleasantly situated … the ruins of a castle now converted into the town house” 162 At the inn was a person named Seal “an intelligent man” who he later learns was a Catholic priest as the region has many Catholics. “The people in general seemed lusty and healthy and the children remarkably fat, particularly one of them of such size and figure as plainly showed it was diseased and on inquiry I was told it was almost an idiot. From this town came Mr Romney [George Romney] the celebrated portrait painter whose wife has been lefty by him and has hardly a sufficient maintenance.” [disapproval - this wife seems to have been left in Kendal in the late 1750s] “Our dinner here was on chicken, veal and pork with which we were fully regaled and ale included were charged one shilling per head” After dinner went to Furness Abbey 163 Notes Lord G Cavendish is building some dwellings by it using some of the old abbey’s stones 164 “the harvest now began to ripen and the fields were everywhere filled with people collecting it. The roads are narrow and as carts are continually passing along them filled with the iron ore some of which is unavoidably scattered the whole way is as red as can be conceived and the people’s complexion and habits are universally tinged by it.” Got to a seaside village and had tea with a view of Piel Castle on an island. “Near this village is a salt spring said to be stronger than the sea water, and used as a bath. Colonel Townley and his family were here for the purpose of bathing in it”. Then wen to Barrow - “a small town” with the help of a local girl called Jane Helm whom they rewarded. At Barrow met Captain Towers whose vessel lay in the road and who sent on board for some claret and frontigniac. At the inn found “good beds, civil usage and all things reasonable. Great quantities of butter are made in this country and exported from hence” Saturday Sept 25: Walked to the quay at the back of the inn. “here great quantities of the iron ore is shipped and a well contrived stage is built which belongs to Mr Nott who I visited in a former journey at Waterhead and who is never mentioned in 166 this country without visible marks of concern so much has the good actions of his life rendered him respectable after death. The stage projects so far into the water as to let the vessels lie safely near it to receive their cargoes which being driven along a railroad in a cart with wheels properly constructed is at the end overturned and the ore slides into the vessel which is intended to receive it. By this method of carting a man can drive before him a very large quantity of the ore and thus the shipping it is rendered very easy. Among the ore which lay here in vast abundance I found a fine piece and ordering one of the men to clean it from some loose dirt that stuck to it he threw it down and broke it saying he thought it too large for me to carry and thus I lost the only piece I had seen in my whole journey worth attention” 167 Pass through Stanton where they see a stone circle similar to that of Stonehenge. At Ulverstone gets a small piece of iron ore with some crystals. Return to the sands passing a Quaker meeting house founded by George Fox 168 etc etc returning to Castle Head Sunday Sept 26: Ate some of Wilkinson’s fruits growing on the stocks “that a few years since produced only sloes and crabs but now from the care and attention of the 169 owner of the soil are loaded with plums and apples. We walked to Wilson House and examining the fish trap found in it three trout.” Dined with James and Fletcher Stockdale and Reverend Mr Fletcher of Lindale, and Mr Wilson of Kendal, with Mrs and Miss Wilkinson arriving soon after from Lancaster Entertain themselves on the hill with the echo Monday Sept 27: Mr Wilson, Mr Wilkinson and he rode to the mosses to see its “extensive improvements” 170 No luck with hunting, but caught three more trout in the fish trap. Met some nieces of Wilson who had taken lodging at Grange “for the sake of bathing in the sea” Tues Sept 28: Spent the morning packing and preparing to leave Castle Head the next day. Treats the carpenter’s leg, but it had been that way too long so just recommends washing it with a solution of red lead in diluted vinegar 171 This he did having seen the good effects on Molly’s leg Again notes the nice appearance of the iron pipes at the cart lodges and killing house etc etc on various nice walks and views 172 sees a view of the sunset over the sea that “filled my mind with such reverential awe of that great Being whose word had brought forth all those immense beings that were within my sight that I almost involuntarily repeated that divine address to the Almighty Mr Pope’s Universal prayer. Nor was I satisfied with having said it once. The solemnity of the scene and the consideration that I now appeared totally sequestered from all human beings induced me again to repeat it with that energy the situation I found myself in required and the sublimity of the language justified. Scarce was it finished when a voice called me by name and said the family waited for me to supper. Roused by the sound I awaked as from a dream and recollecting myself 173 returned to the house highly satisfied with the sensations I had felt in my mind during the solitary excursion which were truly such as I had never before experienced and which only those magnificent objects that everywhere surrounded me and by their immensity and brilliancy eclipse all other beings can inspire.” [ROMANTIC - SUBLIMATION!] After supper, having spoken of this, they all went up and repeated the poem there and ate peaches and nectarines from the garden, viewing Jupiter and Saturn too 174 Wed Sept 29 Goes up again at 5am to view the sunrise from the same hill and again “with rapture” watched the sun and moon etc etc 175 ![[Pasted image 20231221130350.png]] [drawn by Gilbert Gilpin] 176 Left Castle Head at 7am, arriving at Lancaster about 9am. From there “I dispatched by the waggon a large box of cranberries which Mattinson (out of motive of gratitude)had gathered for me”. He was with Wilkinson and Miss W. Continued via Garstang, Preston, Wigan to Warrington where they slept after a supper of sparlings and beef steaks, “the sparlings (or smelts as they are called in London) being very large and in excellent order” 177 Thurs Sept 30: Leave Warrington at 7am, stopping at Frodsham and breakfasted at Smith’s who was ill with gout; at Chester at 11am. “I called as agreed at Mr Falconer’s who politely showed me a small collection of ores and some antiquities and gave me a small specimen of a curious stone from Allan in Ireland.” Miss Manwaring was away visiting her sister married to the Honourable Mr Gray, brother to Lord Stamford. Also saw Miss Williams and some other friends. Left Chester at 1pm, arriving at 3pm at the Court near Wrexham [Wilkinson’s place] “having brought with me some shrimps purchased at Chester large and better flavoured than any I had ever met with” In the afternoon he and Mr W “walked to the works at Bersham where a new mill is erecting, a cylinder 80 inches diameter was on a carriage in its way to Chester to be shipped for France. 178 “Here were two copper rods made at my desire at Greenfield to be bored for guns. The large one was very crooked having been sent [bent?] as it came from the grooved rolls. Orders were given to have it straightened and both to be bored.” Friday Oct 1: He and Mr W off to the mill again after breakfast: “the larger copper rod was now straightening. It was 4 inches diameter and the men had tried to straighten it by hammering without success. But one of the men Thomas Robinson proposed doing it by putting one end of it into a 6-pounder gun which was held down by two 18-pounders. The other end of the rod was introduced into a 24-pounder which weighed 53 cwt and acting as a lever, two or three men hanging to it the rod by degrees unable to resist such vast force became more and more straight till at length it could all be thrust into the 6-pounder gun. But this was a work of many hours. 179 Leaving therefore the men to complete the business we proceeded in a post chaise to Minera. Here the steam engine which was in agitation to be erected last year is now completing, the engine house being built, the boiler finished and the beam ready to be put up. The engine pit is 60 yards deep cut through limestone in very hard measure.” Dine with Mr Burton and return to Bersham At the mill “found the copper straight and fixing in a lathe for boring. All the works here are fully employed and enlarging and among other large castings are the iron rolls 2 feet diameter, 4 feet long which are used for rolling plate iron, copper, etc. [MAKING ROLLERS - FULL EMPLOYMENT] 180 The pillars and frames for these rolls and the screws and nuts by which they are held together are the largest I have seen and well worth attention.” Saturday Oct 2: again to Bersham “where Mr Lovet a steward of Mr Middleton of Chirk Castle came to produce a lease of some land engaged for by Mr Wilkinson for the erection of new works. This morning a curious piece of casting was executed for France. It resembled a three-legged stool and was of a form that one could hardly think would deliver from a mould but they are here prodigiously dexterous at all kinds of moulding and casting.” Mr Harrison, Dumbell and Atherton from Holywell arrived to view the works and dine with them. 181 etc etc hanging out with them and various others already mentioned Sunday Oct 3: Others go elsewhere, so rides to Mold with Mr Dumbell and Mr Atherton 182 through “very fertile” country watered by the River Allan and smaller streams. Passed through a small but neat village called Hope, an Inigo Jones house called Plas Daig or Fair Hall. Eat dinner in Mold at the Griffin. They carried on to Holywell but he went to Mr Fern’s to visit, finding him ill of gout but cheeful and “heartily glad to see me having often heard of me by his son in London. As Mr Fern is an experienced miner and steward to Lord Grosvenor in his large mineral works in this and the neighbouring county, I was 183 entertained with examining several specimens of ores, spars, etc any or all of which he offered me and engaged to send some I chose for me to London, among others a small sample of rich copper ore from Middleton Tyers in Yorkshire.” Slept at his house. Monday Oct 4: etc etc visiting the church and nearby hills 184 Visits “a Mr Oldfield an elderly gentleman nearly related to Mr Fern. He was much afflicted with the stone and had long taken Adams’s Solvent from which he thought himself relieved. He came originally from Derbyshire from whence most of the miners now settled here came for though the mines in this country have been long worked, as plainly appears among the mountains, yet the people of Derbyshire having made greater advances in the art than the Welsh the gentlemen of the country had induced many of them to come over for the instruction of their countrymen who notwithstanding the advantage they have been of to them are hardly yet reconciled to them. [DERBYSHIRE MINING SKILL] 185 etc on some local tale about the “Hallelujah Victory” of some Christians over some heathens In the afternoon Mr Oldfield accompanies him some of the way to Wrexham. They leave at 6pm passing Leasewood the house formerly of Sir George Wynn “who, so uncertain are the gains in mining, is said to have cleared some hundred 186 thousand pounds by his mines in this country yet died in gaol. This house now inhabited by ___ is constantly shown to travellers not so much on account of the building as of the iron railing and gates at the entrance of the court before it which truly are much more superb than any I have ever seen and well worthy attention. The country in the neighbourhood of this house is rich and fertile, the meadows covered with cattle and at the farms considerable quantities of cheese is made which contrary to the character given to Welsh cheese is very good and frequently sold for Cheshire.” 187 Visit Plas Daig “which being neglected by its owners as a dwelling is now occupied by a farmer who having occasion for only a small part of it the best rooms which have in their time been very magnificent are now converted into granaries and bacon lofts and the windows to avoid the new tax are almost all of them boarded up. The house belongs to Mrs Boscowen and her sons had lately been there. … it would be a very rational mode of expending money to restore it again to its original beauty” 188 Notes in particular how strange it is that no locals have done this, given that Inigo Jones as the architect was “an ancient Briton and how much regard is paid by the Welsh to their countrymen.” Returns to Wrexham and then the Court, “where the journey I had made among the lead workers in Flintshire led to the conversation on the taxes lately laid on lead and from thence to window tax and tea tax which indeed at this time engrossed the conversation of people of all ranks.” Tues Oct 5: At the morning to Bersham mill, “the large copper gun not finished but a smaller also boring. Near the old furnace at Bersham orders were given by Mr W and land marked out for building a new furnace for casting cylinders. We examined the mill race which led to the corn mill near Bersham and a miller was engaged for the mill at Lindale near Castle Head. etc hanging about 189 Wed Oct 5 [sic for 6]: Again went to the mill “where the large copper gun being now finished was fired, first with half a pound of powder, secondly 3/4 of a pound and thirdly with a pound, the balls weighing 3 pounds. It stood the fire perfectly and was no heavier than what a man could easily carry on his shoulder. At the foundry at Bersham a 9-pounder was cast for the India Company.” Returned to the Court for dinner and then towards Oswestry. Passed through Ruabon, through Chirk, and 190 over its stone bridge, “and on the left below that a mill” forming a nice view. Approaching Oswestry “we saw some very fine woods” and the town “full of people it being market day” They stopped at the bowling green house … here I took notice of the excellent coals, the best for pleasantness of burning and strength of 191 duration I had ever met with. They come from Sir William Watkin-Wynn’s pits near Ruabon. The tax on tea being at this time in agitation that committee [?] was exceedingly difficult to be got.” Good accommodations, etc. Thurs Oct 7: Mr Burton of Minera and Mr Lovet from Chirk come for breakfast with them, and Mr Land and he rode to “a mine on Llaimonoch Mountain [Llanymynech]. The country in our way fine and after travelling about an hour we turned to the right and ascended the hills among which are the remains of many old pits. Over the mountain runs the well-known mound called Offa’s Dyke … 192 etc etc on the view (as ever) View into a valley of some villages and houses, among which that belonging to Sir Harry Bridgman called Llanyblodwyn [Llanyblodwel] hall “delightfully situated but now converted into a farm house. On the mountain are some lead works where a small quantity of ore both grey and white has been got and some small pieces of rich copper ore has also been found but of not great consequence. I brought some of each kind with me. The principal person who has the management 193 of the mineral works here is named Thomas Powndal a native of Derbyshire as most of the miners are. Mr Burton descended by a small shaft into the works and I intended to have accompanied him but was told there was much water in the bottom and his appearance when he came up again proved the truth of the information.” [owner went down his own mine!] “not far from hence is a cave probably the work of some miners in former ages. It is large enough to contain 40 or 50 persons” “The whole of this hill has been long considered as abounding in minerals which is plainly seen by the great numbers of pits visibly the remains of old works spread over the whole hill, which is of limestone and has some remains of lime kilns on its summit.” 194 Returned via the village of Llanymynech, getting a view of the great lime works, dined there and purchased a print of Rodney’s Pillar as drawn and engraved by the man who keeps the inn. “Having some doubt about the white lead ore we assayed some of it. Being powdered it was put into an iron ladle and by the blast of a smith’s furnace the lead soon ran from it in considerable proportion. The coals brought 195 hither for burning the lime come from the pits near Ruabon belonging to Sir. W.W.W and are brought on mules of which we saw many hereabout. I brought a note from Mr Powndal to Mr Whitehurst who he told me was much indebted to him of the account of the strata in Derbyshire from which he formed his system of the earth.” After dinner he and Mr Wilkinson go via an indifferent road via Nocken [Knockin] to Shrewsbury where Mrs Flint received them, “Mr Flint being gone to Bath and here we found Miss Wilkinson”. Friday Oct 8 [note scratches out Sept saying each is in Oct]: After breakfast to Broseley taking Miss W with them “in a post chariot, the people of Shrewsbury having resolved to use a box instead of the driver riding one of the horses.” Called on Miss Clayton at Wroxeter, cross the Severn at Iron Bridge, 196 and walked up the hill to the works of Mr Banks “where a hammer has been put up for making stamp iron and worked by a steam engine whose boiler is of cast iron plates screwed together and stands well. The hammer is lifted by the nose which is useful but on some occasions inconvenient. At Mr Simpson’s works [Aaron Simpson, who from 1772 ran Thursfield pottery at Jackfield?] he stopped me and desired me to see his youngest daughter. I called on Mr Rowley and and Mr and Mrs Blakeway.” Miss W returns to the Dale while he and Mr W walked to Willey: “here the stamping of iron is carrying on upon an enlarged plan and the mill for drawing bars works well. A large fly is on the second wheel and the hammer of 6 cwt makes from 110 to 124 strokes per minute. Near the mill are reverberatory furnaces for potting the stamp iron which when broken into small pieces and placed in the pots is heated to such a degree as brings them to stick together and the hammer then unites them. 18 pots are heated for one heat and the men work 197 three hours. Finery cinder is made in very great abundance and although it is that matter which runs from the pigs in the finery hearth and consequently appears to be the most fluid part of the mass yet on adding a quantity of it to the ironstone, limestone, etc in the high furnace the iron which runs down is so far from being rendered more liquid as might reasonably be expected that it flows from the furnace as thick as treacle and so sluggish that on tapping the furnace while we were here I could not help taking notice of it and was then told of the above singular curious fact.” Saturday Oct 9: Went in the morning “to Mr Turner’s the proprietor of the China Works in this neighbourhood. He has taken a small house on the side of the rail road. Round the house several improvements are making. We went to the works which are increasing considerably. Here were some large dishes 26 inches by 28 which had stood the first firing well. Here too I was 198 shown a preparation of cobalt for painting and glaze of which I procured a small specimen. These works are enlarging and so much increased that they labour under a want of materials.” Notes that Mrs Turner was thought too ill for recovery but consulted a Dr Walters at Siberscot near Shrewsbury and has recovered. “Many stories are told of the wonderful cures he performs but I had no opportunity of seeing him” Dinner at Broseley, where met Mr Banks, Mr Prevot, Mr B. Rowley etc. Walks to Mr Banks’s at Benthall and on the way “called on the person who has long made the medicine called British Oil which is extracted from the pitch rock found in large quantities at Pitchford in this county. As this oil is rectified after the first distillation I was in hopes to have obtained some of the residuum but could not get any.” 199 At Benthall, Banks gives him a specimen of “native silver in white calcarous spar said to have been got in a mine in Sweden 1,200 yards deep”. “In Broseley I was informed of a cooper who was possessed of a medicine for the stone which he originally got from Dr Walters and some of it was to have been sent to Mr Dowker at Kendal. The man did not seem willing to disclose his secret but offered to send the medicine.” Supper at Blakeway’s Sunday Oct 10: etc etc at church and hanging out with some people Monday Oct 11: Prepares to leave Broseley, and Young Mr Simpson called on him, perfectly recovered since the last year 200 Goes to Mr Banks’s works and over the Iron Bridge “to the Tontine an inn so called lately built at the foot of the bridge on the Coalbrookdale side. Here I met Mr Reynolds, Mr Raithbone, Mr Addenbroke, etc. A large company were to dine here today and while dinner was preparing Mr Abraham Darby walked with me to a small cottage built by Mr Reynolds for the entertainment of his daughter. The way lay over Lincoln Hill … [etc on views] … we returned by some springs that issue from rock and came to a neat building resembling the portico of an ancient temple. The only fault I found was that the columns, pilasters and pediment are of wood all which in this country ought certainly to have [been] 201 of cast iron. From hence we soon arrived at the cottage. Here we met Miss Hannah Reynolds who here indulges herself too much in contemplation when her accomplishments and beautiful person should lead her to shine an example to the other young women of her acquaintance” They have wine and cakes there, etc “in a style of neatness and simplicity for which the family is famous” Enquires after Joseph Faucet, who had sadly died 202 Mr Rathbone’s works: “passing through the works I was shown a stove in form of a tripod and gave a drawing of one by myself, a hammer stamping iron making 120 strokes per minute but the hammer small. I dined at the Tontine where a meeting was held to consider of a proposal for improving as it was called the Navigation of the Severn in the neighbourhood of Worcester. The company was large and respectable, Mr Hawkins Browne in the chair. Here I was told that the Lord Chancellor and Lord Gower had lately visited the Dale and had much conversation with the proprietors.” Returns to Broseley visiting Miss Simpson, and Mr Banks and other sup with him. Banks “gave me a small piece of stamp iron which by that operation alone had been brought to the texture of steel and which I afterwards formed a pen-knife blade.” Tues Oct 12: Leaves Broseley in a post chaise passing over the wooden bridge. 203 Comes to Tetnal [Tettenhall] “where the road is much improving and the steep hill near that pleasant village cutting down in such manner as to render the access to it much more agreeable than it used to be.” Dinner at Wolverhampton then to Bilston “where the inn is shut up” so onto Bradley “where the works are increasing very greatly” In Wolverhampton he and Mr Blakeway send for a gentleman named Baker, “from his lordly disposition called by the vulgar Lord Baker. Our business with him was to talk over the improvement of the Severn as proposed by Mr Jessop of which when we first met he was a great admirer but having Jessop’s paper with us he was convinced before we parted of the futility of the scheme.” [MORE is AGAINST JESSOP???] “This evening T [or J?] Wright came over from Bradley and showed the drawings of the new engine” [???] 204 Wed Oct 13: “Mr Hunt of Derbyshire called on me … having slept at the same inn. It was market day and the town very full of people. After breakfast Mr W and myself returned to Bradley. The land which has been so long on fire was burning in many fresh places. At the works I found a fine fossil in some burnt ironstone which I brought away with me but could not procure any of the Walsall pebbly ironstone which when broken appears like the columns of the Giants’ Causeway. Mr Baker and several other persons came today to view the works which are increasing at a very great rate among other people a forge man from the Forest of Dean who having never seen a hammer moved by any other means than a water wheel could not believe that the hammer here which is worked by the steam engine could be set in motion and as wisely when he found it worked was astonished it would ever be at rest again.” [STEAM POWER DIRECTLY FOR HAMMERS] 205 “Here lay great quantities of stamp iron which the works were employed in preparing and some finery cinder of beautiful forms lay here but in too large masses to be brought away. As at this work coals are procured in larger quantities than at any other belonging to Mr Wilkinson, the stratum here being 12 yards thick very large works are erecting and a large piece of ground surrounded by a high wall within which are to be mills for drawing the stamp iron into bars and afterwards slitting those bars into rods for the nailers, of which vast numbers live in all the towns and villages in this neighbourhood. To work these mills two steam engines are erected to turn the rolls and slitting mills, etc. Among the machinery are to be four large fly wheels. One of them we saw cast this day 18 feet diameter and weighing 6 tons. The whole framework of these mills is of a cast iron and 206 one piece lying on the stone foundation and resembling the joists and girders of a building was said to weigh 10 tons 15 cwt a great weight for one casting. We dined with Mr Thomas the principal clerk at these works who was not well. Mr William Reynolds and some others dined with us.” Then left Bradley to Birmingham and “passed the new canal by which a considerable part of the old canal will be rendered useless” At Birmingham “joined by Dr Priestley, his wife and daughter” who stayed for supper. Thurs Oct 14: Secures a place on the coach for London that evening, then “called on Mr Watt who arrived last night from London and found him and family well. 207 At Mr Whitmore’s I had the steel from Mr Banks made into a penknife blade. Here I met Mr Ford and having called on Dr Withering returned to the inn” to fine Miss Priestley and returned with her to her father’s for dinner. “Here I was shown a method the Doctor had discovered of obtaining inflammable air by passing the steam of boiling water through red hot iron borings by which a quantity of inflammable air is obtained. 30 ounces by measure of this air was produced in 50 seconds and [squiggly symbol] of iron will yield by this process 600 ounce measures (being a third more than by the ordinary method) of air and the iron will then weigh 1 1/3 ounces. [Joseph Priestley's discovery of oxygen?] There dined with us a Mr and Mrs Collins a very intelligent and conversable couple who the Dr had met at Matlock” 208 Returns to Birmingham to tea with Dr P and parted at 7pm Arrived at London about 2pm on Friday Oct 15 ## Add MS 89126/4 ### 1785 to Derbyshire and Northumberland 1785 Insert of “An account of the signals made use of at Bambrough Castle” for ships, published 1771 Inserted notes about the Blackwell Ox of Christopher Hill of Blackwell, county Durham, with detailed dimensions, which was killed in 1779 2 “The Duke of Northumberland having invited me to accompany him this summer to Alnwick I set out in his chaise with his Grace attended by five servants on horseback on Thurs June 30th 1785” Stop at 9am at Barnet for breakfast and a change of horses; then to St Albans, Dunstable, turning right before Woburn into the Duke of Bedford’s park “through which there is a road one mile about to Woburn. Here we dined and regaled afterwards with peaches which we had brought from London with us” Calls on Reverend Mr Edwards whose house is adjoining the park wall . Leaving Woburn “we soon came to that sandy country which lies to the north of the town where formerly nothing like vegetation was to be seen but the large plantations of firs now made there and all in very thriving condition have entirely changed the face 3 of the country and Mr Moore to whom this great improvement is owing deserves the highest commendation and it is hoped will find the advantage of them which his spirit and attention seem so well to deserve.” Change of horses at Newport Pagnell “near which town and indeed through all this country it was with grief we contemplated the poor appearance of the crops of hay”. Drank tea and supped at Northampton, where he visits “my friend Mrs Vincent and met her daughter Mrs Rainsford. At this town our arrival was announced by the ringing of bells and the acclamations of the populace” [different with a Duke!] “Our hither had been in one continued cloud of dust, the weather being too hot to admit of keeping up the glasses of the chaise” 4 Friday July 1 1785: “This morning I was saluted on my coming downstairs by Mr Nightingale of Lee near Matlock in Derbyshire who was on his journey home from London where he had been on account of Mr Arkwright’s trial. He kindly invited me to his house and particularly told me he wished to show the duke a pig of lead found in his land of great antiquity having on it the name of the emperor Hadrian. But no opportunity offered of our visiting him.” Leaves Northampton at 9am, breakfast at a good inn at Lamport, near which is a large house belonging to Sir Justinian Isham. Neighbourhood “rich and well cultivated” There met Mr Ringrose “whose crane marked R I informed him was rejected and promised to write to him about it.” [Society of Arts business] Then to Harborough, Leicester, Mount Sorrel, Loughborough near which they dined - “near this town I observed some large plantations of cabbages for feeding cattle” “Our next stage was Derby where I saw Dr Darwin [Erasmus Darwin] but as we only 5 stopped to change horses there was not time to call on any of my friends in the town. At Derby we were furnished with very indifferent horses but we got safe at length to Ashbourne where we rested the night. Near this town the road is made very excellent … the road [up a hill] is newly made and has a good causeway handsomely railed affording an agreeable walk to the inhabitants and a pleasant prospect of the valley round about”. Stay at the Green Man inn where they had good accommodation and served trout, etc. “The Blackmoor’s Head said to be the best inn was full but no better treatment need be wished for than we experienced” Saturday July 2: Left in the morning, and on the way to Buxton stopped at New Haven inn [presumably in Newhaven], “a small house on the moors midway between the two towns. Some enclosures have within these few 6 years been made in this country which are all bounded by dry stone walls oft [or aft?] more open than any I have elsewhere observed. But notwithstanding this improvement we passed over many barren and desolate heaths which showed what state the country had been in till very lately.” “The resort of company to Buxton has increased, the house we were now at [in Newhaven] from a poor alehouse to somewhat like an inn, but still in a very indifferent style, but the people to receive their noble guest had dressed themselves in their best array and the daughter of the landlord a fine tall girl but with a countenance and carriage as uncultivated as the country she lived in had ornamented her head with a large cap and put on all her best airs to the no small entertainment of us who she waited upon at breakfast.” Way from Newhaven to Buxton “over many wild commons but here and there meeting with enclosures just making and the land in many places appearing of a good quality” 7 At Buxton “found the Hall which is the house of best accommodation in the place so full of company as not to be able to furnish beds, etc for us. We therefore put up at the White Hart the second place and kept by the same person who keep the Hall. We got here to dinner and on enquiry who was the physician of most eminence in the place a young gentleman Dr Pierson was recommended for him. The duke sent, and after some conversation on the nature of the waters upon which subject he has published two volumes he took his leave with such a fee as gave him entire satisfaction. By him we learnt the heat of the water here is 82 [degrees] of Fahrenheit whereas that at Matlock is 64.” After dinner visits the spring situated near the Hall at the bottom of a very steep hill: “the water is brought from the spring in stone pipe and issues under a building in form of a temple into a marble basin which contains a quantity of it while the surplus is discharged by a waste pipe. Within the water in the basin the glasses out of which it is drank are kept that none of the heat may be lost and 8 in the basin lay also a few quart bottles in which the water is carried to anyone at the houses who are not able or willing to come to the spring. A quart was brought to the White Hart but we found it on tasting vapid and nauseous. Near the spring several large houses are building in form of a crescent. They have been begun by the Duke of Devonshire on whose land they are erected and have cost a great sum of money but will require much more to finish them. They are built of a coarse grit stone part found in this neighbourhood and part brought from near Chatsworth. There were at this time upwards of 70 persons lodged at the Hall which is a well looking large stone house not far from a brook over which there are two bridges and an arch turning to conceal it from the backs of the houses in the crescent. Opposite the Hall is a grove of trees, some kitchen gardens, and a cold bath formed from the water of the brook. The country round about is hilly and barren. There are no metallic veins but great quantities 9 of limestone is dug and burnt on some of the hills while others furnish freestone for building. Sunday July 3: Goes with the Duke at the spring in the morning where the duke drank a small glass about 1/3 of a pint of the water, and he drank 3/4 of a pint “without either of us finding any sensible effect from it”. “At the inn the White Hart is a handsome assembly room in which the generality of the company dine every day. In this room the church service is read every Sunday morning and we attended it this morning. There were present about 30 auditors and after service a book was brought us by the clergyman in which we were requested to write our names and give one shilling each (no person being allowed to give more) to the poor. This we readily complied with” Then rides with the duke in the chaise to Pool’s Hole, etc 10 where he sees stalactites, etc where he also buys some crystals, etc Dinner at Buxton - “the decent appearance and behaviour of the company this morning at prayers induced His Grace to send his compliments to them by the landlady, requesting they would accept of tea at his expence this afternoon which they all readily consented to and we met them all at the due hour i number about 30 all well pleased with the politeness and civility of the noble entertainer” 11 Monday July 4: At the spring in the morning meets Mr Mellish of Blyth in Nottinghamshire, Sir Thomas Blackett, and a Mr Bigg of Northumberland who were there for their health. He’s a sceptic: “if these sort of people would do near home what they practice at this place, that is rise early in the morning, drink a glass of warm water, walk an hour before breakfast and then dissipate all gloomy thoughts by a ride on the hills in cheerful company, and I am much mistaken or they would find as much benefit near home as at these places of dissipation. For persons of fortune like those mentioned above it may not be amiss to spent part of their fortunes in this way, but surely too many get here who might find employment and entertain themselves nearer home.” Again tries some water, but no apparent effect “The course of the water having been changed by the canal made by Mr Whitehurst some 12 persons have imagined the virtues of the water were diminished but as the heat at the place of its exit is not lessened there is every reason to think its properties are in no wise changed.” “I passed one of the bridges over the brook and viewed some stables, riding house, etc building on the opposite side. They seem intended to be in a magnificent style and it is said will cost £10,000. How such large sums of money will answer to be laid out in so barren, desolate and dreary a country is hard to say.” After breakfast goes to Pool’s Hole [Poole’s Cavern] again “in company with Mr Wilson of Manchester, Mr Strutt of Derby, Mr Milford, two gentlemen from Ireland, and some young ladies, part of the country who were lodged at the White Hart.” Escorted into the cavern by women and girls with lights and shown various stalactites, etc. 13 etc etc on the cave 14 Then go up onto the hill to visit dwellings “formed out of the old lime kilns which are everywhere to be seen in great numbers. We entered one of them and found that with much labour 15 and art the kiln had been covered over, the bottom filled to a proper level, and a comfortable dwelling consisting of three good rooms formed in it with good casement windows. A small acknowledgment is made to the lord of the soil for them [ground rent?] and the inhabitants seem very happy in them.” etc etc on dinner “The town of Buxton is a mean, poor place situated about a quarter of a mile from the warm spring and between them is the inn we were at and another opposite to it with a few houses where companies are accommodated with lodgings during the season, it appearing that the whole country hereabout is very desolate at all other times of the year.” 16 “Dr Pierson [George Pearson, 1751-1828] showed me a mss [manuscript] pamphlet written by him describing an apparatus for preserving the gass [gas] in the water during the drinking it, as he supposes on this gas depends the virtue of the water. I went with him to the bath into which some of the hot springs rise and with them bring in a considerable quantity of air or gas which is continually rising to the top in large bubbles.” “The sand with which the houses were strewed was so fine and white that I enquired where it was procured and was told it was some of the cawk found in this country reduced to powder for this purpose.” “The Dr [George Pearson] also showed me a small specimen of native bitumen found near Castleton. He dined with us this day and in the evening we were entertained with the magazines and papers from London”. Tues July 5: On the way to the spring meets Mr Rike and Mr Whitehurst from London. Again tries the water “with no sensible effect” “And the Duke desirous of seeing Mr Wedgwood’s works at Etruria in Staffordshire about 20 miles from Buxton we set out about 9, and passing 17 Poole’s Hole we soon came to a road cut along the side of a mountain called Ax Edge.” Mountain and hills of limestone, “and great numbers of kilns are everywhere seen burning it to lime, which is very much used for manure and carried many miles to that purpose” After a few miles “the face of the country changed and the stones were of the freestone kind, and on our left hand were large tracts of peat moss, the land everywhere barren and uncultivated, but carrying the appearance of being very capable of improvement.” Cross a bridge over a brook near which is a village with a “seemingly good house called new inn. Here was a manufacture of millstones and grind stones which lay in abundance near the roadside and are got out of the neighbouring hills. The land now began to wear the face of cultivation and the vale through which the brook we had just passed ran formed a fine contrast to the other parts of the country we had passed over. The improvements 18 continued and the fields were enclosed with hedges to Leek in Staffordshire.” There they breakfasted but found Mr Sneyd and Mr Davenport were at Derby. Left the horses at Leek to rest and wait for them for their return. “In the neighbourhood of Leek the country was well peopled and in consequence well cultivated and the benefit of the manufactures established in this county soon showed itself by the number of people everywhere assembling to see us pass, particularly among the pottery through great part of which our road lay to Etruria where we arrived about noon. The workmen were just going to dinner [dinner at noon!], but enough stayed to show the whole course of the manufacture to the duke who was well pleased with it and left behind him a munificent token (as is on all occasions usual with him) of the satisfaction he enjoys in the industry of the people.” 19 Then to Wedgwood’s house, “Mr Josiah Wedgwood the second son of my friend who had attended us through the manufacture going before to prepare for us. The country here is fine and the plantations I have so often had occasion to speak of in former tours are well grown. The large room Mr W. has built in addition to the house is magnificently fitted up and ornamented with some pictures by modern artists particularly by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Mr Wright of Derby, and Mr Hopner [John Hoppner]. From the north window which is in an elegant Venetian form is a fine view of the great canal who[se] line of course is happily broken by trees and bushes scattered over the lawn and among the hedges and in the distance the view is bounded by the range of high and waving hills that separate Staffordshire from Cheshire. We were regaled with some excellent grapes, the produce of the hot house, and well pleased returned to Leek to dinner about 4. 20 The principal manufacture as I was informed carried on at Leek is of silk and mohair buttons and that is to a very considerable extent.” Evening returned to Buxton Wed July 6: Again drank water at the spring with no effect; “his grace having observed a very fine vase turned out of some of the fluor found in this county purchased it at the price of £4 4s and made me a present of it” [aww!] Rides after breakfast with the company at their request to Chee Tor [near Cheedale] - company is Mr Wilson, Mr Strutt, Mr Alcock, Mr Milford, and him. Pass through a small town called Fairfield in which parish Buxton is situated. Country “abounding in limestone with many kilns burning and where any enclosures have been made they are bounded by open stone walls. We passed along an excellent road but some of the hills were high and steep” 21 Then to a village called Wormhill nest to which is an old mansion belonging to a Mr Bagshaw. “In this village dwells one Hill, by trade a shoemaker, and called hereabouts the honest shoemaker of Wormhill. He has written over the door of his house Hill’s Coffee House and he acts as guide to all persons visiting Chee Tor. To him we committed the guidance of ourselves while some boys held our horses” Notes lots of toad stone on the hill, great views, etc 22 etc on views Notices some Harts Tongue, Maidenhair, and “other plants the usual natives of such countries” 23 Walk through Mr Bagwhaw’s gardens at Wormhill “where the trees are planted in the forms adopted fourscore years ago and being well watered are still in a thriving condition. Round this village there are also some fine timber trees, so that the whole of this place is truly delightful especially when contrasted with the other parts of this country where trees of any kind are a scarce commodity.” Back to the Coffee House for bread and cheese, etc 24 After dinner Dr Peason “showed me a contrivance for preserving the gas in the water.” Then a public ball in the evening at the White Hart, with Mr Milford “acted as Master of the Ceremonies”. He and the duke attend, and it “did not break up till 1” [1am] Thurs July 7: Again drank the water; Duke “wishing to see and also to indulge me with a sight of the various curiosities of this celebrated country ordered a chaise to Castleton. Most of the country we passed through was open and uncultivated. Yet we saw in our way a considerable number of fine cattle and sheep which were fed n the valleys between the many hills, which everywhere abound in this neighbourhood.” Pass Chapel-en-le-Frith “a small town” on their left, and through three villages and near Elden Hole “a deep chasm but did not stop at it” 25 “Castleton was down a very steep hill between two mountains whose sides were covered with large masses of rock. Near the town is a pleasant vale surrounded by high hills. But the town itself is a very poor mean place, the inhabitants seeming to depend on the charity of those who visit the place for their subsistence for they came round us in great numbers soliciting relief and though they seem to live in great poverty and wretchedness yet they are in general a handsome people. One of the girls particularly was remarkably beautiful. On our arrival the bells such as they were began ringing and it was a subject of some diversion to us that when the fellow who rang them came to solicit something for his trouble he with a simple unfeelingness sat himself unconcernedly down in the room with the Duke.” “We breakfasted at Castleton. And here I first met with the genuine Peak Bread, very black and very bad.” Walked to Devil’s Arse [Peak Cavern] “where a number of people are employed in spinning pack thread. This first cavern is about the area of Westminster Hall. 26 After taking this cursory view of the first cavern and given orders to one of the spinners to make some fine twine for me I returned to the inn where the Duke remained. Having told him the ease with which the cavern was approachable the chaise was ordered and we went in it as far as possible passing near a house belonging to Mr Bagshaw … at length we arrived at a spot bey [?] and which the carriage could not advance surrounded by a crowd of all the inhabitants of the place whose cries of charity were liberally answered by his Grace’s bounty. We walked to the entrance of the cavern which opens wide in the mountain and in our way passed by a part of the rock where there has been a vein of ore, cawk, kebble, etc but which is now all dug out. … Hereabout are some small huts resembling shops where some 27 poor people get their livelihood by disposing of specimens of the various products of the mines and quarries in the neighbourhood. Among these are small pieces of the fluor formed into the shape of watches with a glass over several small bits of ore, etc which they sell for what they can get. We bought a few at 1s each paying as I afterwards learnt much more than they usually get for them.” 28 etc etc on inside the caverns 29 At one point approach “the second water, which our guide told me I must cross on his shoulders which that I might the more readily do he told me he had been many years employed in the same way he now practised and that in his time he had carried over Lord North, Lord Loughborough, Sir Joseph Banks and Omai, the last of whom he said was very much frightened. I accordingly got on his back and was carried over by him, but most of the servants seeing him ford it not more than knee deep waded through after him.” [NB he had gone on, while the duke waited for him at a chair - the duke at the time was about 71 years old and died a year later - from the late 70s he was apparently very gout-ridden and too lame to ride, and had retired from being master of the horse in 1780] 29-30 etc on the caverns - notes how they charged for the use of the candles within 31 Gets back from inside to find the duke had started back to the town “and had seated himself near one of the workshops where he largely distributed his bounty to the poor people and to the guide who had accompanied us” 32 etc etc - spot the castle on their way back to Buxton: “inspire notions and give just ideas of the barbarity and savage dispositions of those to whom such castles formerly belonged and who seem by everything 33 now to be met with concerning them to have had no wishes beyond making depredations on the property of their neighbours whenever they wished to enjoy it and thought themselves sufficiently powerful to robe them of it; or to exercise every species of raneour [? ravenour?] and cruelty over those who the chance of those wars they were continually waging placed within their power. And as this ferocity of disposition appears to have been general among the great lords throughout the country everyone thought himself insecure till he had so fortified his dwelling that his neighbour could not approach him but on particular occasions and all general social converse being cut off, the temper of the lords good or bad as it happened was exercised on his tenants, his vassals and all those about him. And he must be little acquainted with mankind who does not see that in such a state power great as they then possessed it is more likely to incline men to evil than good deeds. Yet such was the state of this country 34 till the feudal tenures were abolished and such in a degree is still the state where they remain.” [CRITIQUE OF FEUDALISM!!] “But to leave this digression which the sight of this castle inspired and return to the journey.” … On return shown the entrance to a lead mine on their left “said to go a mile into the hill and to have a canal in it” [Speedwell Cavern]; and on their right a quarry where the fluor spar was dug “called here blue john”. “This information we got from a fine sensible boy named Jones Barker who walked by the side of the chaise up the hill and of whom I purchased a very fine specimen of prismatic lead ore from an ancient mine called Odin Mine” 35 Also gets some blue john from him. Returned to Buxton for dinner. Friday July 8: Takes the waters again, then goes with Mr Bigg for a walk to Lover’s Leap; on return along the River Wye to Buxton “passing by a small corn mill which with its dam served much to ornament the scene” Duke, Dr Pearson and he before dinner went to the bath “where the Dr caught a vial full of the gas by fixing a funnel into the vial filled with water and holding this apparatus by a stick watched the 36 rising of the bubbles and holding the funnel over them soon collected the vial ful [sic?] which we corked and reserved for some experiments.” “Returning from the man’s bath which is commodiously contrived, we visited the woman’s bath which is near adjoining and fed by another of the hot springs of which in the whole these are said to be seven near adjoining each other and one cold one so close to a hot one that a person may stand with one foot in the warm and the other in the cold water.” “This day some pieces of the fluor I brought from near Castleton were turned into 3 or 4 toys by one of the workmen here.” “Dr Pearson dined with us this day and afterwards showed us that the gas he had collected of a nature instantly to extinguish a candle if immersed in it as was fully proved by some experiments made with it.” Notes the Duke’s “usual affability” in asking everyone in the company to hang out after supper. 37 Sat July 9: Left Buxton in the morning, through Fairfield to Tideswell; “on this side of the country as well as towards Castleton the cattle and sheep looked well”; turned north several miles “over a rude country came to some coal pits and thence soon to the entrance of Middleton Dale”, a mountain pass. 38 Again notes lots of limestone with kilns burning them, as well as some lead works. “At the first lead work we came to we stopped and I went up the hill to it for it is at some distance from the road. It belongs to Mr Stoors of Chesterfield and the chimneys of the reverberatory furnaces enter into a tube many yards long, four feet high and two feet wide. In this, great part of the smoke which arises from the lead ore in smelting, which settles in form of soot or powder of a whitish colour next the furnace and blue near the extremity. This soot is from time to time taken out, washed and sold for paint. I collected some samples of it, of their slag which is of a light yellowish colour different from any I have elsewhere met with and not being run 39 through a blast furnace as is usually done contains as I suspect a considerable proportion of metal. Here I also got a sample of the various coloured lead obtained by throwing what remains in a ladle after filling the pig mould on the ground.” At the end of the dale came to the town of Stoney Middleton where they breakfast and change horses “and the landlord showed me many specimens some good ones of lead ore in calcareous spar” 40 But given the distance and potential incumbrance “I forbore purchasing any” “near the church some miners were at work driving an adit which being through chirt is hard work and I heard two blasts go off while I stood near it.” Leaving found the country “well cultivated for some distance particularly near a pretty house belonging a Mrs Simpson with handsome plantations and a garden” and nice views But right after it “entered on some of the most barren and dreary country I ever travelled over the whole way from hence almost to Sheffield being one continued series of rocky desolate moors over which however it is justice to say the inhabitants have made a very good road” 41 Sheffield: “called on my old friend Mrs Goodwin … her house is situated more than a mile from the town. After dinner we went to one of the manufactories of plated goods of which such great quantities are made in this town carried on by a Mr Gosforth. Here a large service of plates and dishes were making for a bishop in Flanders. The plates are struck in a mould by a falling weight and require several blows. As they are apt to lay on the silver very thin upon the copper, I think plates and dishes are not very properly made in this way. The duke purchased some things as a tea pot, a cream jug gilt within side and some other matters. Sheffield like other great manufacturing towns seemed full of inhabitants and dirty, the houses in that part of it we passed through not very well built, but I was told some parts are very elegant.” Left at 5pm and found the country “finely cultivated as land 42 ever is and must be in the neighbourhood of large manufactories. [EFFECT OF CITIES ON THE COUNTRYSIDE] At Sheffield great complaints were made of want of water for the working the several mills employed in the works owing to the great drought that had prevailed in the beginning of the summer and many of the manufacturers talked of trying the effect of steam engines though the manner of obtaining a rotatory motion by them seemed hardly to be known among them. [WATER -> STEAM] About 5 miles out of Sheffield “passed an ironwork situated in a wood and the land round about was everywhere fine and highly cultivated forming a striking contrast to the moors we had passed over in the morning.” Pass through Wansborough [Worsborough], saw Wentworth Castle, drank tea at Black Barnsley [Barnsley], then to Ackworth “a pretty village built of good stone” 43 [sidenote: “341- 5 pecks - 6 I 5 lb, Growth of a potatotes in garden of Colonel Ramsden at Pontefract Yorkshire from Neweasth Paper”] 44 “and near it a handsome building belonging to the foundling hospital” Pass through Pontefract, and Ferrybridge “where is a most excellent inn” where they supped “in great state” and had “excellent and even elegant accommodations” Ferrybridge has “a handsome bridge of four arches” and there “obtained some Pomfret cakes” Sunday July 10: Leave Ferrybridge at 9am, breakfast at Wetherby “the country still continuing very fine and everywhere the roads repairing, bridges building, and many gentlemen’s seats visible on every side” [YORKSHIRE GROWING] Allenford [Allerton?]: “a small town famous for the manufactures of pins and needles” Next stage at Boroughbridge 45 Just before that town the duke has him walk to see some ancient stones “called by the country people The Devil’s Bolts or Arrows [The Devil’s Arrows]. It is said there were formerly four of them but one was dug up in hopes of finding some treasure.” “At all places where we stopped in this country the people assembled to receive the duke’s bounty which he everywhere distributed with no unsparing hand. And here among them came an old woman 91 years old, sister to the person who nursed his grace in his infancy.” Dined at Northallerton 46 the road there having been through “a fine valley, the roads excellent with high land on each side at a considerable distance from us” Next stage was to enter county Durham by a bridge of the River Tees “among beautiful meadows and having thus passed the whole length of Yorkshire. I must say that during all my journeys through different parts of England I have nowhere met with so uninterrupted a fine country as I have seen here, the whole length of this great county being __ miles may property be called one valley bounded to the east and west by high hills, and everywhere richly cultivated, well watered and inhabited by a great number of opulent families, and seeming to produce the necessaries of life with great luxuriance and profusion.” [AGRICULTURAL WEALTH OF YORKSHIRE] Spent the night at Darlington “a large market town”, “the market hill large” 47 Arrival of the duke announced by ringing of bells, etc “and one of his agents conversed with him on business while I took a cursory view of the town.” Monday July 11: “Every other Monday a fair is held at Darlington for cattle of which large quantities are reared in this neighbourhood and this being a fair day a very considerable quantity was early on the market hill, many of them of a large fine breed and well fed” Leave at 9am; distance to Durham is 19 miles “formerly considered as one stage but there has lately be fitted up a halfway house at Rastryford [Rushyford]” where they breakfasted and changed horses - “here are very good accommodations, excellent stables, pleasant garden and agreeable plantations … Coals are found near this place but those of the best quality are five miles distant and brought on mules’ backs many of which we met on the road. Hay was at £5 per load and great 48 complaints made of the scarcity of it. Here I enquired after Mr Smith of Burn Hall in this neighbourhood but found he was in Suffolk.” Durham: “a city whose appearance surprised me not a little for the cathedral which is the first object that strikes a traveller is one of the most uncouth buildings and the tower the most clumsy I had ever beheld and well justifies the saying of King James I who on his coming to England being met by the fat prebendaries of this See and observing the bulkiness of their church jocularly told them in his Scotch dialect that “they aw looked as tho they cou’d stand a gude tuzzle” “The city itself like most other places that are Church Lands is very indifferently built and that part of it through which the great road passes makes a most wretched appearance, though the natural situation … bordered by fertile 49 meadows is capable of such improvements as might render it equal to or perhaps superior in beauty to any other place in the north. But this must not be expected to happen till the baneful influence which leases held on the precarious tenure of the Church is got over.” [SHORT CHURCH LEASES PREVENTING INVESTMENT] Changed horses at a newly opened inn, “and is the only house that has any pretensions to be called a good one that I saw in the town” From Durham “we passed over a very rough uncultivated common where several poor abandoned women were visibly waiting to pick up any traveller who passed by, a set of people which the city of Durham is famous for all over the north. It is common near the end of town to find a turnpike but here they are placed at the distance of some miles, probably to give the dignitaries liberty of riding to air themselves without contributing to the amendment of the roads” [weird!] 50 “We had not travelled far before we came to the country where coals are found, easily known by the rail roads which are here made of wood, some fire engines by the side of the road drawing the water from the bottoms of the pits, and by large quantities of Thames gravel lying in different places which being brought hither as ballast on board the colliers from London is made use of hereabouts for mending the roads, great part of the stone in this neighbourhood being of a coarse sandy grit easily reduced to powder by carriages and therefore unfit for this purpose but well adapted to the making grindstones of which we saw several quarries said to yield stones of the best quality. These works are chiefly about some high land called Gateshead Fell, and descending from it we came to Gateshead a kind of suburb to Newcastle belonging to the Church of Durham. [NB he seemingly uses fire engines for Newcomen, steam engines for Watt??] Gateshead: “the whole of this place and the entrance into the town of Newcastle is disgraceful to a 51 town of so much consequence and opulence. Between Gateshead and Newcastle is a bridge over the Tyne which is here a noble river and not far from the bridge arises a steep hill so much so as to render the draft up it very difficult for loaded carriages at the same time the street is so narrow that two carriages can with much difficulty pass each other. The bridge too is not nearly of sufficient width for the passing of carriages as in so populous and rich a county it ought to be.” Brief stop in Newcastle to change horses, but the duke is “saluted by the acclamations of the people, ringing of bells, etc” Morpeth for next stage, and “passed by a seat of Sir Matthew White Ridley near which are woods and the bars of the gates are in the form annexed” [forgot to take a picture!] Dinner at Mortpeth “saluted by firing of guns, ringing of bells, and during our eating were serenaded by one of the pipers of the country” 52 Pass some woods planted by the Duke and thriving; arrived at Alnwick Castle at 7pm. Servants had gone ahead so the people of Alnwick “were waiting in the street and welcomed the arrival of His Grace with loud acclamations. On entering the castle the guns were fired and in the evening the bells in the town were rung, a bonfire lighted, and every token of joy was expressed by the people. Immediately on our entering the state apartments the duke with all his accustomed affability walked with me through the rooms welcoming me to the castle with that politeness which is 53 the sure sign of good breeding and which his Grace possesses in so eminent a degree.” [notes here that he has separately drawn up an account of the castle, so refers to that volume rather than describing it here] Spends the evening with his agent Mr Charlton, also a magistrate of Alnwick, and Reverend Mr Brand [John Brand, antiquarian] his secretary and chaplain. [insert about Alnwick castle? - skipped these pages] 60 Tues July 12: “At breakfast I could not refrain from admiring the French rolls and supposing them made within the castle commended them as excellent when the duke informed me that on his first coming to this place he found the bread of the country universally bad and choosing to work a general amendment in the manners and conduct of the people he sent from London a skillful baker who taught the people of the town the art of making good bread of every kind and which they continue to practise to this day.” [IMPROVEMENT - this must have been in the 1750s? First made Earl of Northumberland in 1750, was said to be “making fine things” at Alnwick Castle in 1756 with help of James Paine and Capability Brown, and was made Duke in 1766] Goes with the duke through “some beautiful plantations” to Huln Abbey which is now repaired with some rooms for company [pp.61-2 is an insert copy from a manuscript in the library at Alnwick Castle by Dr Percy Bishop of Dromare, about the history of Huln Abbey] 63 etc etc about Huln Abbey’s pecularities 65 Along the River Aln, next to the Abbey, “the shores bordered on one part by the large plantations of firs and forest trees made here since the land became the property of the present noble possessor, and in another part appear some cultivated land with crops of corn upon it while at a greater distance rises the mountain called Breezelaw [Brizlee Hill] whose rugged sides covered with loose rocks form a striking contrast to the before named fields but whose top is ornamented by plantations of various trees among which is seen the tower” 66 The whole “is encircled by a stone wall, part of it has been employed as a place for breeding pheasants and the pens still remain, the birds which are the ring-necked kind being now dispersed among the woods where they bear the inclemency of this northern climate better than the common kind” 67 etc etc views from Breezelaw [Brizlee] Tower 69 Come to the ridge of a hill with a view of a valley with the river “great part of it is intended to be flooded and converted into a large lake 71 which when completed will assuredly have from this elevated spot an excellent effect.” [for the view only??] “I had this day a letter from Mr Dunn. After dinner examined the laboratory and furnace proposing at some future day to make experiments with it. In the afternoon Mr Hastings an ingenious watchmaker of Alnwick was with us. He has made some small reflecting telescopes and lent me one during my stay at the castle.” Wed July 13: Writes in the morning to London. 72 “In some conversations on Lord Dundonald’s process for extracting tar and pitch from pit coal the duke produced some specimens made at Newcastle more than 20 years ago.” [older process?] “I this day employed myself in cleaning an excellent compound microscope made by Adams of Fleet Street which afterwards afforded us all much entertainment. Some samples of grit stone were brought me from a quarry in the neighbourhood which seeming to promise well for grindstones I desired a few to be made and sent to London for trial.” Does research into the history of the castle, thinking it needs a better account of it than any he had read. Mr Hastings dines with them. 73 Afternoon in the library where they play billiards with Mr Brand [bad weather that day prevented a trip to the seaside] Thurs July 14: Plays billiards with the duke in the morning, and after breakfast he makes some notes on the towers and walls, and is shown the duke’s manuscript account of Newcastle. Duke “gave his opinion of the vegetable origin of coal” “During the Duke’s stay at Alnwick two public days are kept in each week, on Sunday and Thursday, and this being the first Thursday since our arrival, the flag was hoisted on the flag tower and the vessel on the river had her sails and flag displayed. However as is usual on the first public day there was but a small company” Walks to Malcolm’s Cross a mile north of the town with Mr Brand, Reverend Mr Hall (minister of Alnwick and “of excellent character”) and Mr Charlton. 74 And onwards “through some fine plantations through a small village called Denwick” and up a hill for more views. Evening “diverted by reading the ode published as having been written by Lord Thurlow when candidate for the Laureateship” Friday July 15: After breakfast visits the “nursery grounds in which a large proportion of the trees that are to supply the plantations are raised here and great numbers of young oaks, ash, beech, firs of various kinds and other trees, and among the plants a considerable number of rhubarb which have been growing about 6 years, for here is no kitchen garden, the common esculent plants for the use of the family being purchased 75 of the townspeople, some fruits indeed grow here as currants, gooseberries, cherries, peaches, nectarines and apricots, and in the stoves grapes and pineapples, the duke looking over these grounds in a cabriolet” [Pineapples in Northumberland! - cheap coal??? - NB the combined vines/pineapples method was a mid-18thC improvement] 76 Cliffs nearby “consists of layers of Whynne [whin] Stone and limestone with a small seam or stratum of coal. This Whynne is I believe the same stone as that called in Worcestershire Rowley Rag and described by Dr Withering in the Philosophical Transactions.” [GEOLOGY ENTHUSIAST - NB: whin stone is dolerite, as is Rowley rag, so he appears to be correct] Visits Alnmouth “from whence large quantities of corn are annually exported. In the neighbourhood of this place they use considerable quantities of seaweed as manure and the crops were so good that the effect was easily visible” 77 village of Lesbury nearby “of which Mr Percival Stockdale is minister. Near this too I observed a farm let to a Mr Selby where the crops or wheat and clover were in excellent condition … The Duke who has been singularly attentive to what relates to planting trees and the soils and situations best fitted to each sort tells me that the sycamore is the tree best adapted to grow near the sea side.” Sat July 16: Market day in the town, “well stocked with provisions of all sorts. The town of Alnwick is of a moderate size and considering there is no great manufacture carried on either in it or in the neighbourhood is very populous. The market hill is large and on it is a very handsome market house built in the Gothic style by the Duke. It was formerly strongly fortified as all the towns on the borders were.” 78 Still has the ruins of its gates and walls, though one gate now “serves for a poor house and the other for a place of confinement. On one of the gates is erected an arched tower somewhat resembling that on St Nicholas Church in Newcastle and in the town are two conduits for water seemingly well supplied. The town hall is a good room where concerts are sometimes held and where company meet at the assemblies. This is a stage between Morpeth and Belford in the road to Berwick and yet the inns are but indifferent.” Waits on Mr Charlton and visits his family. After breakfast goes with the duke to the plantations in Huln Park 79 “passing over part of a rough common where are many quarries of stone we came to a hill thick planted and where bilberries are produced in large quantities, a wild fruit which many people here are very fond of. We this day saw several crops of wheat, turnips, barley and clover cultivated by Mr Beezley formerly a pupil of Mr Brown [Lancelot Capability Brown???] and now the superintendent of the Duke’s plantations, a person of very considerable ability in his profession and his crops showed his attention to his farm whose good appearance was much heightened by comparison with the crops of some of the common farmers in the neighbourhood which were poor indeed. It is proposed to sow liburnum for spring food for cattle who are very fond of it.” 80 Cross the river on the way back over a stone weir “forming a small cascade” Visits the castle’s “Stewards Room where the principal servants dine. On the chimney piece is a handsome Etruscan vase purchased of Sir William Hamilton, a small portrait of the duke, pictures of Sion House and Windsor Castle and prints of the late Duchess and Lord Percy” Goes with Mr Charlton and Mr Brand to Radcheugh Cliff [Ratcheugh Crag], “on our road meeting some Scotch gypsies” and passing a farm belonging to Mr Charlton “On the side of the road lay considerable quantity of wynne stone and limestone of a blue colour used for mending the roads. They are broken into small pieces and the wynne stone is much the best for the purpose being greatly harder than the limestone and it ought to be known that the roads are where thus made very excellent and lasting” 81 Sunday July 17: Goes to church with Mr Brand, etc about it “This being public day, Mr Burrel, Mr Errington and about 20 more of the gentlemen of the town and neighbourhood dined at the castle” 82 “I this day met with Wallis’s History of Northumberland. The author is said to be a poor clergyman of this country and now a curate in Durham. He has at least been a very assiduous observer of the products of this county and many parts of the history are deserving attention. He was formerly curate of __ [Simonburn, Northumberland] but on the demise of the late incumbent that living was given by the interest of Lord Sandwich to Dr Scot [James Scott, 1733-1814] the once well known Antisejanus whose name is spoken with abhorrence hereabout for the cruel exactions on his parishioners and his treatment of Mr Wallis, who replying a little sharply on being ordered by Scot to whip a dog out of the church and refusing to do it was dismissed from his curacy and for some time wandered about in great penury.” 83 Monday July 18: Morning to the nursery grounds “where a great quantity of the rheum palmatum or true rhubarb is growing. Some of the seeds of this valuable plant were sent to the Duke of Northumberland by the Society for Encouragement of Arts etc as soon as they were received from Dr Mounsey to whom this kingdom is obliged for the first introduction of them from Russia. Of the seeds so sent to the Duke some were sown at Sion [Syon] in Middlesex and some at Alnwick. Of the former one or two plants still remain but the latter have all been taken up. Yet the seeds of those plants yielded have produced very great quantities which thrive very well and the flowering stalks were now past decaying and the seed shedding. Of these roots the Duke at my request ordered three to be dug up which was done and they weighted when clean near 14 pounds. Of this I cut out the best part and having taken off the bark and chosen as much as weighed 8 pounds I cut it in small pieces about 4oz each and strung them on packthread and hung them up in the pinery under that glass frame which was usually opened in the middle of the day.” 84 Off to the woods on Breezelaw Hill. “The number of flies that were found in every part of the woods this day is inconceivable insomuch that the horses were extremely unruly both saddle and in draft. We saw this day some moor game and several hares which abound in the plantations, though I was told 1,500 were killed last year merely with an intent to destroy them and save the young trees which are so much injured by their depredations. No deer are kept anywhere in these woods, that the trees may suffer as little injury as possible. I observed today considerable quantities of wild valerian growing and a yellow blossomed cingfoil which the sheep seem particularly fond of called here catsfoot clover” 85 “Mr Davison formerly secretary to Wortley Montagu dined with us this day. He has travelled much in the Levant and was consul at Algiers, an entertaining and agreeable man and known by his dispute with the Dud de Chaulnes.” “On trying the yellow blossomed grass I found the horses eat it greedily and therefore procured some seed for London.” Afternoon with Charlton to Alnwick visiting Mr Adams “an attorney who sides with an interest of no great weight in the town in opposition to the duke. In his garden I saw the largest crop of apples I have observed the whole season on two trees which he tells me never fail to bear well” 86 Tues July 19: Visits Huln Abbey again, noting that he proposes writing a small tract on changes to the abbey since Dr Percy’s A letter describing a ride to Huln Abbey Then to Alnwick Abbey “now the property of Mr Doubleday a Quaker who suffers it to go too much to ruin. It is situated in a small rich valley surrounded by hills, having the river Aln running close under its walls and formed into a mill race whence the water turns two small mills for grinding corn. As the weather was now dry little water ran in the bed of the river which is bordered on the side opposite the abbey by very romantic rocks covered with wood and a seam of coal breaking out today among them. Round the abbey are several plantations” 87 “it has been a strange neglect of the Percy family to suffer this abbey and a domain round it to the value of £1,200 a year to get into the hands of another family, though it lies adjoining to and is in part encircled by Huln Park” “this time being evening a good number of girls were swimming, bathing, etc” in the river “This evening three roots of the true rhubarb having been taken up being then six years old and that grew in the nursery grounds, I cut off and cleaned from the bark as much of the largest parts of the roots as weighted eight pounds (the three roots weighing when whole about fourteen) and cutting this quantity into moderately small pieces they were hung up in the grapehouse immediately under that glass frame that was every day in dry weather left open” [more rhubarb experiments] 88 Wed July 20: “This morning in the grounds. No herbs or roots for family grow here, but plenty of currants, gooseberries, and cherries. I now tried whether the yellow blossomed cing foil called here catsfoot clover would be eaten by sheep and found they devoured it voraciously.” [agricultural experiments] He and Mr Brand “made a catalogue of the curious pictures, portraits and others that are reserved in those apartments formerly occupied by the late Duchess among which are several curious ones by Holbein etc” They then rode to Alnmouth: note “two sloops sailed while we were here, a very considerable quantity of corn being shipped at this little port for London, and in the town we observed many granaries.” 89 Castle cannon salute the arrival of Lord and Lady Percy with Lord Warkworth and the rest of their family Thurs July 21: Morning writes to London; then after breakfast with Mr Brand up to a hill which appeared to have some tumuli but did not. “As we passed the mill I observed the stones made 75 revolutions in a minute” [good or bad? Why was he timing it?] 90 Spends the afternoon observing the castle and writing his descriptions of them. This being a public day Sir Charles Grey dined with us and Mr Bayles of Newcastle the inventor and patentee of the three bearded harpoon.” Friday July 22: Rides with Mr Charlton and Mr Brand to Warkworth “to visit a mill erected for the manufacturing tin plates. [seemingly Coquet Mill ironworks, Acklington, which was a rolling mill and tinplate works operating between 1776 and 1793] The work is conducted by a Mr Kendal whose brother is partner with Mr Jones of Holborn Hill, London. I wished much to see this mill as the duke had informed me that when he was applied to for a lease of the water for working it he had stipulated that if it injured the salmon fishery which formerly was very great in this river (Coquet) that the works must be pulled down again. As at least £9,000 had been expended on this mill etc it was a matter of importance to the proprietor to have this 91 matter well settled and this occasioned my wishing to see the place. We travelled about 4.5 miles along the turnpike road towards Newcastle. We then turned to the left, passed by some coal pits and large quarry of free stone and soon came to a fine elevated land whence we had a delightful view of the sea on one side and the land even beyond Newcastle on the other. Descending from this hill we passed by a deep glen ornamented with woods and near this spot were some fine crops of corn. As little time brought us to the river Coquet which we forded just below the mill dam. The river here runs over a limestone rock and among rugged hills overgrown with a great variety of bushes so as to form a very remarkable and picturesque appearance. The height of the dam being too great for the salmon to leap and the condition abovementioned subjecting the proprietor to the danger of having it taken down he consulted Mr Smeaton who advised a side cut to be made up which it 92 [is] supposed the fish would go and to ease their passage a number of steps up which they were to leap are made along the cut. Hitherto however the fish have not taken this road. But as there is a universal failure of the salmon fishery in all the rivers on this coast from the Tyne to the Tweed I mentioned on my return to the castle that I hoped the duke would not exact the tenor of the agreement till it should be found the fish returned to the rivers and did not as heretofore run up the Coquet. Having forded the river we continued our way to the mill about half a mile below the dam where we met the son of Mr Kendal who received us with great politeness and showed us the whole of the works without any restraint. The iron brought here in bars is rolled into plate of a due thickness by being run four times red hot through rolls moved by the water wheel. They are then cleaned in a liquor called the pickle and being heated are well beaten to throw off the scales then scoured and tinned 93 by plunging each plate singly into a vessel of melted tin having a quantity of oil floating on its surface. On taking the plate thus tinned out of the melted metal a part runs to the lower edge and there fixes itself much thicker than on the other parts of the plate. To take this off and have the tin lie equally over the iron the lower part of the sheet is again dipped into oil kept of such an heat as melts off the superfluous tin which sinks to the bottom of the hot oil. The plates are afterwards finished by rubbing with bran three times and then packed in wooden boxes for market. Having completely viewed the works Mr Kendal politely invited us to drink or dine with him but we returned to the castle to dinner, our guide Mr Charleton leading us through some exceeding bad roads, deep glens and rivers before we again reached the great turnpike” 94 Saturday July 23: “This being market day I this morning visited the market early and found it well stored with butchers meat, greens and fish as gurnets, herrings, soles and turbots all which from the vicinity of the sea are good and cheap. The duke had been told that beer brewed with lime water would be better than brewed with plain water and a hogshead had been made but proved very indifferent. However one remarkable part of the process must not be omitted. The lime water was made as strong as it could be yet on running through the malt all the lime was precipitated and in the sweet wort not the least taint of lime was discernable. We all expected that in the fermentation raised by the addition of yeast the lime would be separated but it was not suspected that any decomposition would take place by its simply passing through the malt” 95 Again to Warkworth by “a very good road”; “gives title to the eldest son of Earl Percy.” Notes a ruined castle too. 96 etc etc views 97 “walked further up the stream to a corn mill and crossed the river at the mill dam, above which lay two or three salmon but where we were told we might have expected at this season to have seen an hundred. The river was very low and in a small pool of stagnant water that was in the bed of the river 98 lay a poor half dead salmon that having got into this pool could not escape again. It weighed six or seven pounds and suffered one of the company to take it quietly out of the water. Its eyes appeared swelled and covered with a film and the miller said it was blind and grown so as is not uncommon by not being able to get up the river into fresh water. We put it again into the current of the river.” Take a boat rowed down the river until they came to the village’s castle. 99 Back to Alnwick: Notes a spring “whose water is conveyed in pipes to the castle near a mile distant”; Mr Selby the land steward has purchased a “neat pretty house” there “This evening the duke complained of the gout and did not sup with us” Sunday July 24: all go to church, good sermon on oaths and perjury “which it being the time of the Assizes at Newcastle for the county was very aptly suited. The preacher a Mr Brown having a good strong and audible voice was much liked and commended by the congregation” 100 Gets back to some letters from London “and this day the duke first mentioned his intention of trying to warm a stove for plants with steam” A fair proclaimed at the market cross Notes that at the fair was a boy with one hand who had “a raccoon which he kept in a box and showed for what he could get calling it a lion’s provider” 101 etc etc on the customs of the fair, especially “a number of people came into the town and assembled about the castle armed with pikes etc in the ancient military manner and after the fair was proclaimed did duty at the several gates of the town all night, though it was plain many of them before evening proved themselves rather followers of Bacchus than of Mars” [tradition left over from having to defend the fair against Scottish raiders] Monday July 25: At the fair by 7am “a fine show of good cattle, but I was not a little surprised at seeing about 20 small black Scots which appeared to differ from any cattle I had ever seen before by 102 a fillet about an inch wide and five or six inches long covered with hair hanging from the gullet under the chin of each of them. Not to expose my ignorance I walked through the fair carefully examining every herd but found none other with the same appearance. I then applied to the driver who was a Highland Scot to know the cause of this singularity. He told me they were the cattle of one particular clan in Scotland and that all the beasts of that clan had whilst young a slip of the skin of the neck cut up and left hanging which the wound soon healing ever after hung in the manner I had observed it and this was done to show the cattle belonged to such a family.” About 11am lots of the tenants of the duke assembled on horseback in the inner court of the castle “where they were regaled with ale, wine, etc, the duke meeting them and conversing with them with the greatest affability. From hence the procession returned in form to the cross where the fair was again proclaimed” 103 The one-handed boy with the raccoon sent to the castle “where being shown into the library he stared with wonder at the beauty of the room of which he could have before had no conception and taking out his little beast from the box and showing it to the company who were all, particularly the young ladies, much pleased with its tameness and colours. A collection amounting to five or six shillings was made for him which when he got into this hands he stared and on Lady Percy saying Wat you ever so rich before he answered with an emphasis that whoever heard will hardly ever forget No! Never! Never!” Tues July 26: Off to the plantation with Mr Brand after breakfast on foot where he took notes for the thing he’s writing on Huln Abbey. 104 On return find a Captain Lawley who stayed for a few days. After dinner walk to Crescent Bridge “and coming by the meadow to the town bespoke some salts for viewing with the microscope which Lady Percy had hinted she wished to see.” Wed July 27: etc etc with other guests - Lawley, Mr Suecchi, Mr Brand, etc - to see the same sights Firing of the guns at the castle in the afternoon due to the arrival of Lord Algernon Percy and Mr Blackett. 105 Thur July 28: Mr Brand and he walk to town searching for the raccoon boy “whom the duke liking the appearance and manners of the boy would have taken into his service and provided for by placing him in Huln Park where he might have been employed in looking after pheasants … but unfortunately the boy he had left the town and no one knew where to find him.” Is told that in the first 16-17 years of the Duke being in possession of the castle “there was constantly laid out in the repairing and restoring the buildings the sum of £6,000 per annum which sum was deposited in the Newcastle Bank for those purposes and the number of trees planted has on an average for the same time been at least 700,000” [per year?!] 106 Goes with Mr Brand to see “the foundations of a new arch is laying near Denwick a village about a mile from the castle. This arch is to stand over the present road and to serve as a carriage way by which the duke may pass from Alnwick to Radcheugh Tower within his lands and not travel along the common road.” Friday July 29: Off to Alnmouth again, notes again that they export a lot of corn: “it is but justice to the farmers hereabout to say that their crops are excellent, the land in good order and well manured, which their neighbour the sea in a great measure supplies by the weed [seaweed] thrown up and the coal and lime of the country being in great abundance they make a due advantage of them” 107 Goes to an old Saxon temple near the church called Wodin Church [St Waleric's?] Finds a “curious moth” on one of the church walls “but it was spoilt in my return to the castle” [naturalist instincts] 108 “The river Aln enters the sea near these ruins but its channel seems likely to be soon changed for the sea is very near breaking through the bank and a good haven may then be made here.” Meet Lord Algernon Percy and Mr Blackett on a sea-side ride while they go northwards, and so proceed on together over the sandy beach “we soon came to a spot where the people were employed in burning the sea weed and making kelp. One of the burners a girl told us she worked at the fire from five in the morning to nine in the evening and her wages were 6d per day.” [5am-9pm at 6d per day wages for a seaweed burner] 109 Come to Howick, a house belonging to Sir Henry Grey, near which are some small bays made by the sea “in some of which the veins of coal break out among the rocks”; pass through a small fishing town [he can’t recall the name - possibly Craster?] and return via Denwick 110 Saturday July 30: Notes that Breezlaw tower [Brizlee] seems to conduct lightning, reducing storms at the castle, “having several iron rods passing from the top into the ground” and being so high 111 … “examined some specimens of Bovey coal from Devonshire which the colliers in this neighbourhood all assert is of the same kind with what they find over the seams in their mines.” 112 Asks what the weekly consumption of provisions at the castle is during the stay of the duke, the clerk of the kitchen tells him that “the butcher’s meat amounted to 17cwt exclusive of game, fowls and fish.” per WEEK! “I collected some scales of different fish for the microscope” Sunday July 31: Company at church is large despite the rain, among them Lord Stormont, Sir Charles Grey, and a “Mr Stanhope of Yorkshire with whom I had much conversation on the coal and ironstone of that county” Monday Aug 1: Big party to Huln Abbey, including Mr and Mrs Stanhope and a Mr Cramlington of Newcastle as well as some others 113 Insists on climbing the ladder all the way up Brizlee Tower into the grate where they light the emergency signal fire: “I got into it no one among us choosing to follow me. Hence I saluted the company below with three cheers who with great good humour returned them” [daredevil again!] Upon getting down “congratulated by the duke on my courage in entering the great and my safe return” Spends the afternoon writing about and measuring the stables 114 Goes to see the drying rhubarb in the hot house Goes to a see a play in the town, “a company of players being come to the town and this night they performed ‘She stoops to conquer’ with Barnaby Brittle” Tues Aug 2: etc viewing some ruins 115 Wed Aug 3: Walks into town in the morning “to the race ground, which is a part of the common belonging to the town … On this common are many quarries of stone chiefly of a coarse grit lying over a stratum of limestone. Under that is another stratum of grit and under that coal. here also are many lime kilns.” Then visited the house purchased by Mr Selby, the present clerk of the peace for Middlesex, upon a hill overlooking Alnwick, “now repairing” to be “fitted up in the modern style” as a dwelling Shown around by Mr Selby senior, the owner’s father 116 Mr Sharpe, surgeon of London [William Sharp, 1729-1810, also an antislavery campaigner] on his way to visit his brother [John Sharp 1723-92, who had replaced as archdeacon his younger brother Thomas Sharp d.1772] the archdeacon at Bamburgh Castle came to dine at Alnwick castle, having arrived last night with his brother’s and sister’s children - 12 people in total. [SHARP FAMILY!] “but [they] signified their surprise at not finding any musical instruments in the castle. However to stop their enquiries I asked them if after seeing Sion House, Northumberland House and Alnwick Castle all repaired and put in order by the duke they thought his grace had not employed his time to great advantage and been sufficiently engaged without attending to music and yet it must not be imagined he had not at times descended to that which is only an amusement for he had in his younger days brought into this country the most celebrated vocal performer ever heard in it no other than Faranelli [Farinelli]. After dinner they entertained us with a kind of family concert, with singing and as usual two flutes by Granville Sharpe [antislavery campaigner] which 117 as it was new to most of the [Percy] family afforded some entertainment.” Invited by the archdeacon to Bamburgh, and in the evening he calls upon them at their inn The Swan “but William Sharpe and the children were at the play” Thurs Aug 4: “This being public day we had much company and many stayed the night. After supper the conversation turned on the probability of coal being of vegetable origin, Mr Brand who is writing the History of Newcastle [published 1789] considering the coal to have been vegetable and some others among whom is the Duke maintaining the contrary. A Mr Turner was at the castle this day. He is a potter at Newcastle and came to take a mill on the river Aln in order to convert it to a flint mill. I showed him an Etruscan vase in the steward’s room which he thought not difficult to imitate but I heard no more of it afterwards. Mr Blackett produced some lead ore found on his estate at Wylam which will be tried.” 118 Friday Aug 5: All day writing to London Saturday Aug 6: 6am Mr Brand and he set out for Bamburgh Castle, the duke lending his chaise and two servants, four horses being hired for the day. Travelled 6 miles northward on the turnpike then turned right through a small village “near which were some good crops of corn, much of the land hereabout is rich, and in little more than an hour we arrived at Bamburgh Castle” “We were received by Mr Sharpe, Dr Sharpe and family with much cordiality” 119 Despite the fog they get into boats to see the Farne Islands, but “about half a mile out to see when Mr Granville Sharp’s fears becoming stronger than his curiosity it was proposed to return again and to my no small mortification the family would not suffer me to embark again but Mr Brand having got the chaplain Mr ___ to accompany him set off again while we returned to the castle” [poor More!] Notes Bamburgh dispensary “where the medicines are prepared; the school where 60 boys and 60 girls receive their education from three school masters and one school mistress; the granaries in which a quantity of corn is kept that being bought at a low price when grain is cheap is afterwards sold again to the poor at 4s 6d per bushel though corn is much dearer in the markets. It is the practice to fire guns every 5 minutes when the fog is so thick as to prevent the water being seen from the ramparts. … There are also various signals for ships to notice in 121 case of danger or distress.” One square tower has been converted into a good dwelling, though the rest is ruins. Notes that it has “a library well furnished with books which were the property of Dr Sharp and have lately been sold by him to the trust to remain in the castle for the use of the public.” [ENDOWED LIBRARY CREATION] “Here are kept powder, balls, etc for the defence of the place and protection of any ships that may be pursued by an enemy of which an instance happened last war, and some shot fired from a French privateer are kept in the castle.” After dinner the weather cleared and they used a telescope to view the company on the islands. 5pm the boats returned, Mr Brand binging back with him two cormorants, a gull, and a little eider down found in the nests 122 of the eider ducks on the islands - “the down is collected and sold at one guinea per pound.” “These islands are said to abound with vast numbers of fowl which are taken in prodigious abundance in the spring for their feathers, as are also their eggs which are laid in nests on the ground so thick that it is impossible to walk without treading upon them.” Also notes Bamburgh castle’s “celebrated well and clock”; they return to Alnwick bringing two cormorants with them, finding Sir Edward Swinborne and his son at Alnwick Castle 124 “Bamburgh Castle belonged in 1715 belonging [sic] to the family of the Forster and being then forfeited was purchased by Lord Crew who married Forster’s sister and left £1,000 per annum to charitable uses which is now increased to £3,000 and is managed by trustees of whom Dr Sharpe is the principal and most active. His conduct in this business is very highly spoken of in the country and as he lives on the spot and is particularly attentive to the arrangement and disposal of the various branches of the charity the country will feel a great loss whenever he dies.” Sunday Aug 7: At church, “it being sacrament day a collection was made from pew to pew for the poor” Company at the castle large, including Mr Askew [Henry Askew??], son of the late Dr Askew of Newcastle [Dr Adam Askew?] and brother to Dr Askew late of London [Anthony Askew, d.1774 the book collector?]. “This gentleman brought with him a sample of white metal supposed by him to be silver but which proved on trial to be tin. This metal he said had been obtained from a 125 stone or ore found in great quantities on his land. He promised me on his return home to send me some of the ore and I in return offered to make an assay of it for him but afterwards received a letter from him telling me he was advised not to let anyone see the ore. This metal was said to be separated from its ore in the furnace where a fire was made for boiling victuals for his pack of hounds, and suspecting it might have been some silver spoon melted there by accident he had examined his plate and found none missing. But on the discovery that it was tin and not silver he was desired to examine whether all the pewter in his family was safe and if so it then would be proper to prosecute the working some of the ore in a manner that might turn to advantage.” [what happened with this???] Monday Aug 8: “This day tried Mr Blackett’s lead ore which appeared to yield 9 1/16 in 12 but this afterwards proved a mistake. Lady Percy ordered the School for Scandal and we were all at the play 126 Tues Aug 9: more time measuring and drawing up an account of Alnwick Castle drawing room Rides with Lord Algernon Percy “to Denwick quarry whence most of the stone used in the repair of the castle has been obtained. And here I bespoke a specimen of the stone with the duke’s crest thereon. On our return towards Alnwick near the Crescent Bridge, some boys and girls drove a cow through the hedge just as our horses’ heads were at the spot. The beasts were frightened and I was thrown and so much hurt as to confine me to my room to Saturday August 13th when I made shift to walk down to the library. During my confinement his Grace has constantly visited me every day, and now began to complain of a pain in his knee and I was a little alarmed with a pain in my foot but both went off” 127 Sunday Aug 14: Much company, and “Mr Collingwood a surgeon in the town brought me an account of his trial of some of the rhubarb I had ordered to be dried. Wrote answers to letters from London, Derbyshire and Bombay. In the evening at chapel.” Monday Aug 15: “To the garden where weighing the rhubarb which was not quite dry I found its weight 2lbs 3oz. From hence to the town and wishing to keep myself quiet I invited Mr Thirlwell to dine with me in my own room where we compared the copy he had made of my description of the apartments in the castle and began the description of the dining room.” Tuesday Aug 16: “The Alnwick races began this day, the town consequently full of people.” At the race “only two horses started which were afterwards found to belong 128-131 [Insert pamphlet about the “Musical Society intended to be established in Alnwick”] 132 to the same person. There was therefore little sport in the evening. The ladies were at the assembly but I remained at home with the duke when our chief discourse turned on the clergy’s neglect of their duty to which is certainly to be attributed the depravity of manners and deficiency of morals among the people of all ranks. We had also a curious story of Lady Fielding who finding on the death of Sir John a letter to the duke soliciting a pension for his former wife had taken it to the duke as intended for herself but the date betrayed it. However she obtained the pension.” Wed Aug 17: “There was this morning a concert in the town at which we all repaired about noon. Here was only a small company. The conductors of the concert are Mr Ingledon and Mr Sharp and as party reigns here as in other places these gentlemen and the town are in opposition. The music so-so but a Mr Campbell played the Birks of Endermay with variations very well.” 133 “We dined this day again at the ordinary in the town where the duke treated the company with a fine turtle sent from London for that purpose with pineapples and other fruits.” [LUXURY!] In the afternoon “we had a good race but the groom who rode the losing horse yesterday was obliged to decamp or he would have been very roughly treated it being supposed he was concerned in the deceit practised in the race yesterday.” “We returned to the castle to tea and in the evening to the play where was a very full house.” In the evening Lord Errol [George Hay, 16th Earl of Erroll, who was 18 at the time] arrives at the castle staying 3 or 4 days - “a very handsome and sensible young man grandson to the Earl of Kilmarnock who was beheaded on account of the rebellion in 1745 and his son Lord Boyd [who fought for the Hanoverian side at Culloden!] having married a Northumberland heiress [Isabella Carr, daughter of Sir William Carr of Etal] had by her this son and some daughters [12 children!]” 134 Thurs Aug 18: “This morning we had a public breakfast, where the magnificent taste of the duke in conducting all his entertainments was fully displayed. Tea, coffee and chocolate made one part of the entertainment, a cold collation another, and the best fruits wine, jellies, etc served to crown the whole. The display of the flag on the tower and the public notice that had been given of this entertainment brought together all the chief persons of the town and neighbouring country and the castle was well filled with those to whom such an entertainment could not fail to be acceptable.” Again dinner at the ordinary and watch the races. While ladies went to the assembly in the evening he stayed in the library with the duke. 135 Friday August 19: “It was Lady Percy’s opinion that I should find benefit with regard to a pain in my side which still continued, from electricity and Dr Ferrier [John Ferriar 1761-1815 - later a famous surgeon at Manchester] having an apparatus in the town I was this morning with him and received some sparks and this was repeated twice a day for three or four days. I this day received a letter from Mr Askew on the tin ore he imagined he had found in Northumberland. In this letter he told me he was advised not to let the ore be seen and as he should be in London in the spring he would then let me have some and give me his reasons for keeping the affair at present secret.” Returning from town to the castle “I found Mr Edmund Burke, his son, and Mr Windham who ascended in an air balloon with Mr Sadler [James Sadler]. They were on their way to Scotland and dined with us. After dinner I walked with them to Barney Side and the afternoon being very fine we had a charming view of the castle woods, cascade etc with which all were highly pleased and Mr Burke with his elegant language passed some high encomiums on the scenery.” Saturday Aug 20: “This day after breakfast Mr Dutong and Miss Gray left the castle” [first mention - who?!] “I tried the lead of Mr Blackett’s ore for silver but the cupels not standing the experiment did not succeed.” In the evening “Mrs Roddam having the toothache and having been told a magnet would relieve her we procured one from Mr Hastings, watchmaker in the town, which she applied without success. I promised Dr Ferriar to send Nairne’s account of his electrical apparatus. This day the Latin inscription which the duke had made choice of to be placed on Brizlee Tower was written on paper in capitals in order to its being transferred to the stone. The account I had drawn up of the several apartments in the castle was read by Admiral Roddam.” Sunday Aug 21: Remained at home writing due to rain, about 20 in the company at dinner 137 Monday Aug 22: Spends the morning drawing the description of the dining room and breakfast room. “Lord Percy set out this morning for Kielder a hunting seat among the hills on the borders of Scotland, and Admiral Roddam with his lady and daughter left us inviting me much to visit them at Roddam the family seat near the Chevish Hills. A gentleman of the name of Bewick from Newcastle came to the castle this day. On my visiting the town I was entertained by the conversation of a Mr Smart [or Stuart?] who has as he supposes discovered a new air lighter than any hitherto used for filling balloons with which he proposes filling one and believing he can guide it as he pleases intends visiting London in it.” Tues Aug 23: “Walking in the garden with Mr Blackett, Dr Gair [Arthur Gair, surgeon and apothecary in Alnwick] and Dr Farriar we had two roots of rhubarb taken up and sent to Dr Gair’s in the town to be dried.” 138 “Mr Charlton’s son having shot some red game made me a present of a brace which I intended to have sent to London but learning that they would not keep good to that distance they were afterwards potted and sent to London” [food preservation technique?] “Mr Bewick left us this day having very politely invited me to his house.” Wed Aug 24: “Dr Ferriar and myself walked this morning to Alnwick Abbey … belongs to Mr Doubleday a Quaker who does not bestow on it that attention to improvement it well deserves. We returned by a lane called the Stocking” and then from the castle accompanies the duke to Huln Park “whose wall is 27 miles round. At one entrance we found some excellent turnips well hoed which the attention of the duke to 139 improvement in agriculture has taught the people here to practise to advantage.” “When the size of this park is considered and the quantity of deer formerly kept by the Earls of Northumberland adverted to it should seem that great part of the food of the people must formerly have been venison for in this family not fewer than 5 or 6,000 must have been killed every year. Within the last 20 years very great improvement have been made here by cutting drains and in one place a road for a considerable length is carried along the arch of one of the large drains. Not far from this is a spring of fine water called Friar’s Well whence the water is conveyed in lead pipes to Huln Abbey.” Returned to the castle by the moor. “In the afternoon a canoe 140 and dress from Davis’s Straits brought by Captain Hamilton was brought to the castle. The canoe was of that kind which holds only one person and being covered at the top in every part except the hole in which the person sits. The natives of the northern parts of America are said not to fear almost any weather in them. The dress was that of a woman but with breeches and much ornamented with beads, bits of ivory, etc.” [GREENLAND/NUNAVUT canoe + clothing] Thursday Aug 25: “Public Day. Lord Erroll and his mother and two sisters came to the castle. Her ladyship was a celebrated beauty in the North and is still very handsome and when it is recollected how elegant a man the late Lord Boyd was it is not surprising that the whole family have fine persons. This day also Mr Smith Lovaine and Mr Collingwood of Unthank [Alexander Collingwood?] in this county dined with us. In the evening Mr Moore of the Cheapside came to see the castle. Part of the day I was employed in writing an account of the library and chapel” 141 Friday Aug 26: “Mr Collingwood a surgeon at Alnwick had procured of the gardener a piece of the rhubarb that had been hung in the hot house to dry and having made some trials of it among his patients gave me an account of its effects. On the whole he prefers it to foreign and will try the effect of taking up the roots at different seasons of the year. [RHUBARB FOR MEDICINE] I this day got some seeds of the yellow blossomed cing foil called by the common people catsfoot clover.” etc etc hanging out - play in the town was “the old song of Alteration by Pierson” Saturday Aug 27: “Finished the description of the apartments in the castle and having examined the larder where was game etc in abundance my birds potted and some pickled samphire put up for me I went with Mr Thirlwell to the Record Tower where 142 the archives of these great domains are preserved. Here I was much entertained with the examination of a great number of maps and surveys of the estates belonging to the family, some of which are of great antiquity; Dr Ferriar now called on me and we walked to the Lion Bridge where we were not a little alarmed at seeing the canoe overset in the river with a man in it who proved to be Mr Carr, the duke’s gentleman. The canoe turned bottom upwards and it was some time before he could disengage himself from it but being an excellent swimmer he at length cleared himself and got on shore. Seeing him safe we pursued our walk by the river side and observed the spring of water issuing in the meadow. It appeared plainly to proceed from the well in the third or inner court of the castle. This day Mr Selby arrived from London. In the evening Mr Blackett, Mr Brand and myself walked by north road to the Abbey” 143 [INSERT:] “Fungus. Rising from a bulb which is under the earth, the stem or stalk 3 inches long and nearly 1 inch diameter having about the middle of its height a frill, the underside of the head of a white colour, the gills very fine and thin, the upper surface of the head of a beautiful scarlet colour spotted with many protruberances of a light yellow or straw colour. During their growth the upper side of the head is of a fine convex form but towards their decay it spreads out and becomes rather concave. Found under the trees at the plantations at Breezelaw near Alnwick” 144 Sunday Aug 28: After church on a walk with Blackett and Brand to Brizlee Tower to see the inscription “in our way observed large quantities of a fungus [see above]” Public Day, but only a small company. Monday Aug 29: “This morning I made an assay of Mr Blackett’s ore but a mistake was made in the weights. Mr B and self to the town and purchased tickets for the play, it being for the benefit of a woman whose mother had been formerly a snoller [?] but from a stroke of the palsy had been rendered incapable of performing and was indeed an object of pity living in a state of abject 145 poverty.” “On our return to the castle I could not help noticing the excellence of the coals that were burning in the library. They are brought from Shilbottle Colliery belonging to the Duke. None from this work have yet been sent to London but probably may in time and will certainly fetch a good price at that market. At the play this evening the part of Falstaff in Henry IV was not ill done.” Tues Aug 30: “While we were at breakfast this morning the Honourable C. Marsham [Charles Marsham, eldest son of 2nd Baron Romney], Lady Frances Marsham and their son [Charles, then 8yo] were announced and as I had long been known to the family it was a particular happiness for me to meet them there. They had made a tour from Scarborough where the rest of their family still remained to Westmorland and Cumberland and having surveyed the Lakes and other beauties of those counties had taken the castle of Alnwick in their 146 way back to Scarborough. After breakfast the company proceeded in two carriages to Huln Park and Mr Marsham’s son was with Mr Brand and me in a chaise. … I accompanied Mr Marsham to Barneyside … Lord Percy returned from Kielder.” Wed Aug 31: “The carriages were again ordered this day with the company to Redcheugh Crag, Lord Percy, the Ladies and myself in the coach, the duke and Mr Marsham in the chaise.” etc etc Wrote to London in the afternoon “Mr Marsham with his usual affability and good humour furnishing me with covers for my letters” 147 Thurs Sept 1: Marshams leave in the morning. Spends the day “drawing up an account of the lands called Barneyside. Public Day. Mr Moret and Lady from Yorkshire with Mr Stanley of Lancashire.” Fri Sept 2: etc etc excursions to the same places “I wrote to Miss Rhodes of Bridgnorth this day franked by Mr Stanley” 148 Remains with the duke and ladies at home “where the discourse turned on the language of Shakespeare, particularly on the works [words?] rack which is a term at sea signifying the light clouds that follow a storm and not wreck as is written on his monument, and deck in Henry VI which signifies a pack of cards in the North and thus makes sense of the passage. As the modern refinements in the English language have taken place by slow degrees the northern parts of the kingdom still retain the old modes of expression and probably at the time Shakespeare wrote the words now common in Northumberland were in use in Warwickshire and ever more southwardly. Certain it is that many words that have puzzled the critics are well understood in the North and had they been as well known in the southern parts of the island it would have saved much dispute and unnecessary altercation.” 149 Thurs Sept 3: Goes to the town “and prepared the solution of copper and mercury etc for making the arbor veneris which having before mentioned to Lord and Lady Percy they had signified their wishes to see the experiment. I this day finished the account I had drawn up of this magnificent castle and the adjoining grounds.” Company returns and “examine the vegetation (as they are called) of copper” [arbor veneris[ “The conversation in the evening turning on the richness of the land on some of the estates belonging to the duke in Yorkshire and I for the first time learned that Mr White plants for gentlemen at £4 per acre which is thought cheap” 150 Sunday Sept 4: Mr Stanley and his company leave on their way to Scotland With Mr Brand visits Denwick’s arch being built: “The stone is of a good quality and got from a quarry near at hand and the number of workmen who had been employed in the restoring the castle having improved the country people in building the masonry is well executed” Just 17 in the company, among whom a Mr Fenwick of Newcastle Monday Sept 5: “The duke being of opinion that heat might be regularly and commodiously communicated by the steam of boiling water passing along a tube in the centre of hot houses he desired I would give orders to have 151 proper tin tubes made to fit on a small still that trial might be made in the laboratory. Accordingly orders were given” “found Mr Bridgen of London was come to Alnwick in his way to Scotland … the duke finding he was well known both to Mr Brand and myself politely invited him to dinner. This day Dr Ferriar saw the arbor veneris. In the evening we were at the play (the Merchant of Venice) badly performed.” 152 Tues Sept 6: Goes with the duke and Lord Percy “on a visit to Sir Harry Lyddel’s. The first part of our road lay over Aydon forest a rough and barren land without trees. At length however we came to a plantation of firs made by Mr Fenwick [mentioned above] who was one of the first candidates for the Society’s premiums for planting. But the estate is now to be sold. Passed by Mr Burrel’s of Broom park and stopped at Mr Hargraves of Shawdon whose house is built of excellent stone found this neighbourhood and near it ware some large woods in which inhabit great numbers of rooks.” Crossed the Aln a few times, visited Mr Collingwood of Unthank’s house 153 Visit Sir Harry Liddel’s, formerly Lord Ravensworth’s. “one of the most capital seats in the county. Round about it the land is good but the crops of corn had been much injured by the wet season. In the neighbourhood of this house the late Lady Ravensworth had made many fine plantations which have now a very beautiful effect contrasting with peculiar elegance the barren hills and moors that everywhere surround them.” … “our dinner highly elegant which when Lady Liddel’s well known taste is considered may easily be accounted for. Sir Harry’s eldest son was preparing to go to the Eaton School [Eton]” 154 “In the afternoon a well dressed person who is kept as piper to the family came into the room, sat down and played several tunes on the bagpipes if they may be so called for he had fixed to his right arm a small pair of bellows which by moving up and down supplied wind to the instrument. The whole of it was exceeding neat and is not the Scotch but Irish pipe, and being managed with great skill and dexterity produced some excellent tones without the drone of the common bagpipe and afforded us much entertainment.” Returned to Alnwick through Whittingham “a small town … and at this time a fair was held here for cattle which were said to sell better than they expected” At Alnwick “amused with an appearance we none of us could account for but it proved at last a boy’s kite raised by a barber’s servant in the town with a candle and lantern at the tail of it” 155 Wed Sept 7: “This morning in the laboratory where I tried the tin tubes which were two inches diameter and being fixed to the nose of a small alembic were continued by several joints to the length of 42 feet at the extremity a cock was soldered in and on turning it the steam issued with great velocity. I had this day a particular instance of the duke’s politeness and attention shown me. His Grace on coming into the library addressed himself to me with saying he must beg my pardon for what he had ordered this morning which was that he had given directions to his clerk of the kitchen to send Mrs More a moor game pie observing at the same time she ought to taste black as well as red game, by which I easily understood he had been told of the birds that were potted for me. I thanked him in the best manner for this instance of his civility and attention and I afterwards found the pie was an excellent one.” 156 “this day the duke hinted to me that beautiful ornaments might be made of marbled paper properly varnished, which I afterwards made trial of but not with the success I wished for” Thurs Sept 8: “This morning the duke came to the laboratory and was well pleased with the experiments made with the tubes for warming green houses etc and which if his death had not soon after happened a trial would have been made of upon a large scale.” [AN ALMOST-INVENTION?] “Among the company today was Mr Walmsley of Preston. With him we visited the Ice House which is formed out of a part of the ancient ditch surrounding the castle, a long and dark passage in that part of the grounds 157 which lie behind the kitchen. Passing this we arrived at the ice house which is large and keeps the ice well in it as we daily experienced.” Then they climbed to the roof of the castle: “the whole of this great building is covered with lead, and several of the statues which in imitation of the ancient ornaments of the walls have been placed on the battlements are blown down.” Gives his description of the castle “to Mr Thirlwell to be copied for his Grace” 158 “Among the visitors this day were Sir Charles Gray and his daughter, a very agreeable young lady.” “At dinner this day we had among others a clergyman who enjoyed with particular glee the good things with which the table was furnished, and having satiated himself at the Duke’s expense began to harangue on the want of care the House of Lords and more particularly the Bishops show to the interests of the inferior clergy, of whom he reckoned himself one. He took a deal of pains to convince me that he had been wronged in his tithes by the farmers in his parish and told me that one of them paid him last year only £40 whereas he was certain he ought to have received 80 from him. This man I found enjoys a living among the barren hills of this country which produces him £500 a year, and pays a curate a trifle to do his duty in it and yet endeavours to exact with a rigorous hand the utmost dues from his parishioners and thus 159 lives in a continual scene of dispute and quarrel with them. How much it is to be lamented that some mode is not found out of conciliating the minds of the common people to the person who is placed among them for their pastor and instructor, and yet there is little chance of this happening while the tithes, those continual causes of quarrels and litigation and I may say those bars to all improvements in agriculture are to be exacted from them by force and paid to those who are so very negligent and many of them so incapable of their duty and who may truly be said to love the wages they have but hate the work.” [ANTI- GREEDY CLERGY, ANTI-TITHES - sees it as bad for agricultural improvement] In the evening “a very great appearance of the Aurora Borealis or rather a luminous point appeared in the zenith from whence very brilliant rays issued as from a centre chiefly towards the north and north west” 160 Friday Sept 9: etc etc mainly stays in “I stayed with the duke, the conversation turning on the use of emetics in consumptions. This arose from the master of the company of players (Mr Strickland) being in a decline and applying to Dr Ferriar and he having asked my opinion I had advised him to try a course of vomit” Saturday Sept 10: Visits the town with Dr Ferriar and a son of Mr Gair’s 161 Told of a dreadful fire at Newcastle Afternoon “drank tea at Mr Gair’s where I met his youngest daughter and son from the West Indies. The evening proved so damp and cold that the duke proposed having some burnt brandy and we concluded with a critique on Macbeth” Sunday Sept 11: Church in the morning; 22 at dinner, including Admiral Roddam and his lady, Captain Gunter and his lady, Mr Collingwood, and Sir Francis Blake. “We had much conversation on the circumstances of Mr Askew’s tin ore by which I was given to understand little was to be expected from what he has said on the subject as it probably was all a deceit and so I fancy it proved for I never heard more of it.” Monday Sept 12: He takes Roddam, Gunter and the ladies on a tour of the gardens and grounds [he is being treated as the guide!] 162 In the afternoon with the duke, Lord Percy and Mr Blackett in the coach to Sir Charles Grey’s [Major-general Sir Charles Grey] at Howick House. Travelled about 5 miles up the north road then turned right passing two large square buildings called Preston Towers “probably the gateway of some ancient castle but now better employed as the habitation and granary of some farmer”; then a further few miles to Sir Charles Grey’s house “a pretty large one built of brick and situated in a good garden with trees round about and in view of the sea … In the room were two portraits of Mr ___ a gentleman of this country taken when he was 93 years of age. He died 163 at 95. he appears to have been a fine strong man, lived as he called it in the old way breakfasting on red herrings and brandy and rode on horseback hunting to the last. The companion to this portrait was that of Dr Franklin painted by B. Wilson [Benjamin Wilson] and taken by Sir C. from the Dr’s house in Philadelphia. [thought to have been stolen by Major Andre, an aide on Grey’s staff, during the British occupation of Philadelphia. Returned to the USA in 1906 by the 4th Earl Grey, and now in the White House — seems to confirm that Grey did order it taken]. [see https://www.jstor.org/stable/20085353 ] Sir C. told us that on the English forces entering that city in the late war and he taking up his quarters in the Doctor’s house he determined to make himself master of that portrait but gave strict orders that all the other property should be carefully preserved for the use of the owner.” 164 While away “Dr Deard and some Frenchmen came to see the castle. The Frenchmen affected not to be pleased with the Gothic ornaments.” Tues Sept 13: “Visited Mr Ilderton who showed me his collection of ores chiefly from Alston Moor and Lead Hills and presented me with some specimens” Tea at Mr Charleton’s “who is one of the Duke’s agents is also a Justice of the Peace and this evening a woman was to be examined on a complaint for keeping a disorderly house. I was requested to attend the examination and adjourned to a public house in the neighbourhood where another justice was already got. The woman made little defence owning in some degree the charge against her but when it was decreed to take away her licence she with great force of voice 165 and argument insisted on the return of the money she had very lately paid for her licence. I finding the dispute likely to continue left them, reflecting on the ill consequence that attend the magistracy of the kingdom not being kept in the hands of such persons as from their rank and consequence in life might prevent any altercation with persons brought before them.” [likes hierarchy?] Wed Sept 14: In a closet in the library with Lord Percy found three copies of the Northumberland Household Book, which the duke made a present of a copy each to them both. “The duke and lord Percy this morning visited several persons in the town as is customary before they leave the country” Thirlwall brings him a fair copy of his account of the castle 166 “the papers having mentioned some robberies our discourse turned on punishments and the advantages that would accrue if they were always certain and speedy. As an instance his Lordship [Lord Percy] told me that Judge Gould had informed him that once while he was passing sentence on a most hardened villain on his saying you must return the fellow bawled out “to the place from whence you came My Lord”. No villain said the judge, to the place of execution there to die within an hour. This so shocked and terrified the fellow who had the moment before insulted the court that he fell on his knees in agony soliciting a little time but in vain and the judge kept his word with him and he was hanged immediately.” 167 At Barneyside “we made some calculations on the planting timber which being done at £4 per acre and the fencing at 20s per acre will if the compound of the interest of the money be reckoned be found at the end of 100 years to be money badly expended. Yet for the sake of the country both with regard to utility and ornament it is to be hoped and from the present taste it may well be expected that the planting trees for timber will be encouraged throughout the Kingdom.” Evening at the play “(penson’s Benefit) he is the favourite of the town. The play The West Indian with Don Quixote.” Thurs Sept 15: Waddle the under-gardener meets him in the grounds and shows him two drawings of the round tower and entrance tower done by his son, a boy employed by him in the garden 168 “I was so pleased with these samples of the boy’s works that I told his father he must make a drawing under my eye and if he succeeded as I expected I would take him to the Duke.” “This day to specimens of stone from the head of Alne were brought to me. One proved a whitstone the other a sulphurated ironstone as appeared by the trial I made by colouring some flint glass with it. This leads me to mention the use of Whyn Stone for making glass instead of the basalts which the French have of late boasted as a great discovery whereas the Whyn stone was used twenty years [c.1765] ago for that purpose by Lord Delaval at his Northumberland Works at the desire of the Duke, and I have seen many pieces of the black glass made in that manner which the duke always called Vitrum Obsidianum Plinii” [DUKE’S DISCOVERY??] [inserts a recipe p.169]: p.170 more scribblings 171 Friday Sept 16: etc etc Goes with the duke to Hulne Park plantations by a different road: “Orders were given for planting fresh trees wherever any defect appeared and we were to enquire of Mr White of Retford [the farming expert] for a proper man to plough and lay land down smooth. On one hill near the border of the park called Extremity Hill many people were planting firs etc a man and boy put in 500 a day but [by?] cutting with a spade this form [sideways T] in the ground, raising the notch, placing the plant in it, and pressing the land down again with the foot.” 172 View a ground of 300 acres intended to become a large lake by means of the river Aln etc etc 173 Saturday Sept 17: Calls on Mr Ilderton in the town “who showed me maps drawn from his own observations of Alston Moor and Lead Hills. The Duke this day proposed a mixture to be made for feeding horses of boiled potatoes, cut straw and oil cake [AGR INNOVATOR] which however on trial they would not touch. This arose from a straw cutter he had formerly purchased in Somersetshire consisting of four blades moving between semicircular saws, and which on trial I found cut well.” Draws up a description of the fungus that grows in the park “Mr Blackett and myself walked in the grounds where he informed me that among the mines of Sir Thomas Blackett on Alston Moor the lead ore is often found of an octangular figure and promised if possible to procure me a specimen.” 174 To Mr Gair’s in the afternoon Sunday Sept 18: Surprised to get a note from “my friends Mr Rathbone and W. Reynolds of Coalbrookdale acquainting me they were in the castle. On my coming down I found them viewing the apartments and having got some chocolate for them they insisted on my accompanying them to the Swan Inn where they had slept the preceding night. Here they gave me a sample of the ironstone from Bedlington Furnace. It is of a weak and poor kind. A circumstance was pointed out to be by W.R. which may be worth remarking. In the room in which we sat hung a print by Strange of Apollo rewarding merit. it is well known that the figure of Apollo is naked in the act of putting a chaplet on the head of a musician. The indecency 175 of the figure of Apollo has very often been noticed and a wag had written under the print the following line which for their humour I transcribed and sent to one of the Magazine ‘Oh merit when thou’rt blessed with riches For God’s sake buy a pair of breeches And give them to thy naked brother For one good turn deserves another’ {PUBLISHED in the [Gentleman’s Magazine November 1785](https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/The_Gentleman_s_Magazine_and_Historical/VaNJAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=%22and+give+them+to+thy+naked+brother%22&pg=PA910&printsec=frontcover), — “Verses found at an inn in the North of England, written under the well-known print of Apollo crowning Merit”. Signed simply “M.”} Rathbone and Reynolds continue their journey to Scotland; the Duke is disappointed they didn’t stay the day with them: “My mentioning them and the quantity of coals used in their works led his Grace to tell me the coals sell on an average at Newcastle for 13s/the Newcastle chaldron which is double the London chaldron and that on an average they cost 12s getting so that the proprietors may be said to receive only 176 sixpence profit for each London chaldron of that most useful commodity, a price less than is paid for any other thing that is brought to market, and can be only worth getting from the great quantity yearly consumed.” [COAL PROFITS ARE LOW] Mr Bedlington of Newcastle dines with them, “promised to get some yellow ochre and meet me at Newcastle. It was to cost 40s per ton delivered in London. He examined the chaff cutter and approved it.” [SOCIETY OF ARTS INVENTOR???] Drank tea at Dr Ferriar’s Monday Sept 19: News from London that Lady Algernon Percy had safely given birth to a son; guns fired and bells rung; “what was very pleasing because unexpected some guns were fired by Mr Anderson who had long been in opposition to the Duke’s interest” 177 “This day the audit of the accounts of the estates belonging to the family began at The Swan. These audits which are held every half year by the Duke’s stewards are kept in the castle when the family are not there but at the Swan when the family are at the castle. The annual income as I was told is £40,000 per annum. This day I examined some rhubarb drying at Mr Gair’s and recommend some to be taken up at different seasons to ascertain if possible the proper time for gathering it. The chaff cutter being cleaned was tried and answered well. We made trial of the mixture for horses mentioned __ but they would not eat it. Mr Hastings the ingenious watchmaker at Alnwick this day requested me to ask the Duke to have the Nautical Almanacs annually sent to the library which his Grace directed to be done, and while we were in the library the Duke took occasion 178 to mention with some concern the want of information in useful matters which is so conspicuous among almost all the clergy, and spoke fully at the same time of their almost universal inattention to the duties of their calling, and I could not help expressing my opinion that to that inattention and the neglect of the parochial duties is in a very great measure to be attributed the licentiousness of the times and the general disregard which so universally spreads to all the moral duties especially among the lower classes of people. On this theme we had often discoursed and I frequently regretted the politeness of his Grace prevented his speaking his mind to some of those clergymen who constantly attended his table on public days. At dinner some sack was ordered in which we were to drink Lady Algernon Percy’s health. As this wine had stood on some Tokay Lees it was very 179 delicious. etc etc to another play Tues Sept 20: “This morning I was shown a very neat curious and expensive musical machine which moves by a weight, and hammers striking on bells play several different tunes. It will go about half an hour and was intended to be placed in one of the old ruinous towers in Huln Abbey where it was to play for the entertainment of company” At dinner have “some excellent Cyprus wine brought over 20 years ago by Philippo” 181 etc Wed Sept 21: Duke “gave me an account of a particular kind of larch of which he had received large quantity of the seeds at different times which constantly grew and as surely died the second year owing as is supposed to the nature of this climate, for as in Russia the frosts 182 continue without intermission till the fine warm weather sets in, these plants make no shoots till they are secure from injury by cold. But here as we frequently have thaws and warm weather in the early part of the year which after a little time are again succeeded by other frosts the tender shoots of these trees appearing with the first warmth are cut off by the succeeding cold and the plants constantly killed by it.” “Peter Waddle [Peter Waddell] the boy who had made drawings of several parts of the castle I introduced to the Duke who was much pleased with the performances particularly with the drawing of the Saxon Towers which is inserted in my account of the castle and the duke ordered the boy to go to Sion [Syon Park, London home of the duke] and be educated under his chief gardener in drawing etc.” 183 “Mr Forster of York was at the castle this day. He told us they had had great rains in that country and gave us an account of the balloon that had arisen near that city.” Thurs Sept 22: At 11am he and the duke in the chaise, and five servants in a coach, and five on horseback left Alnwick “amidst the tears and goodwishes of those who remained behind among whom I must particularly remember Mrs Carr the housekeeper and Mr Maddison the land steward whose nephew Mr Thirlwell a very ingenious and sensible young man having written two copies of my description of the castle, the duke with his usual munificence had amply rewarded him for the trouble and his uncle judging this mark of kindness was owing to me thanked me with tears of sincerity for it. Passing through Alnwick amidst the prayers and benedictions of the populace 184 and having pursued our journey about 6 miles we turned to the left and visited Mr Lisle a gentleman who has here built a very handsome house in a fine situation commanding a view of the sea, Warkwarth castle, etc” “it was the intention of the Duke to visit Mr Riddle whose house is situated on the banks of the Coquet but we had not long left Mr Lisle’s before we met Mr Riddle much afflicted with the gout but riding for the air. It had been much spoken of in the country that the Duke had found very great benefit from taking every other night “which had been his practice many years) about half a pint of this whey made by mixing half an ounce of sulphur with a small glass of white wine and stirring 185 this mixture into enough milk to make half a pint of whey when boiled and strained. We dined at Morpeth where we were saluted with bells, guns, pipers, etc”; afternoon to Newcastle - “most of the roads along this country are made of the whyn stone and the goodness of the roads consists in the breaking the material very small before it is laid on it then soon binds and the road is solid as a rock” [ROAD QUALITY] At Newcastle met by Mr Brand and Mr Blackett, who accompany him to “Mr Bayles who showed me some of his triangular bearded harpoons and several certificates of the use of them.” [harpoon inventor!] Notes St Nicholas’s Church 186 [insert of a note from Mr Cramlington about some coals] 187 Walks to the west side of the town to see the assembly room “a neat and commodious building well adapted to the purpose it is intended for, hence we went to the infirmary situated at the extremity of the town in a very airy and proper place. Near this is a bowling green for the entertainment of the inhabitants. We now returned to the inn where we found Mr Cramlington and Mr Bedlington [NB towns of those names!] who had brought the ochre he had promised me. A new playhouse being intended to be built we were promised a sight of the plan of it. 188 Friday Sept 23: Mr Blackett, Mr Brand and he set out in the morning in a post chaise “to view some of the collieries in the neighbourhood of this town, and by a bad road came to Long Benton [Longbenton] a village where we met a gentleman of the name of Browne. With him we breakfasted and he accompanied us first to Walker’s Colliery whence some of the best coals for the London market are procured. They are got at 90 fathoms deep and 40 bushels are raised per hour by a machine erected by Mr Smeaton. The water is raised by a steam engine whose house cylinder is 36 inches diameter thrown into a reservoir whence it is discharged over a wheel turning two vertical cog wheels having an upright shaft and pinion between them taking alternatively into them and thus reversing the motion of the two cones joined together at their base. On each of these cones a rope coils by which the baskets or corfs as they are called here are raised or lowered, the difference of the diameters of 189 the several parts of the cones serving as the fusee of a watch to counterbalance the weight of the descending rope. Having examined this engine we proceeded Mr Browne’s colliery where are two engines for raising the coals contrived by Mr Browne’s father [colliery engineer inv William Brown, who had mined coal at Throckley and Willington - this son is William Brown Esq of Willington, who from 1772 was partner with Matthew Bell and William Gibson]. In these machines the water is thrown by steam engines into reservoirs whence it runs over a water wheel having a double range of buckets like that for which Mr Gullet of Exeter some time since obtained a patent, though this engine has been in use 30 or 40 years. In the reservoir are two openings through which the water is alternately discharged. One of these openings lets the water into one range of the buckets and turns the wheel one way, the other into the other buckets and reverses the motion. When the ascending bucket is got to a certain height the rope strikes a bell and gives notice to a man who sits in a box for that purpose to stop the water and the acquired velocity of the 190 wheel is sufficient to bring the bucket to its due height. The water is then by the same man let into the other buckets and the motion of the cylinder on which the ropes coil being reversed the former bucket descends again and the other rises. On my enquiry why here the ropes coiled round a cylinder when they would have an advantage by being coiled on cones, I was told that experience proved that on the cones the ropes wore so much more than on the cylinders that the advantages were not a compensation. [ADD THIS INVENTION TO WILLIAM BROWN ENTRY] [Christopher Gullett Esq of Tavistock, Devon, patent no.1044, 1773, hydraulic engine for whims and cranes worked by water - NB in a seemingly unrelated 1785 patent is of Exeter. Gullett by 1781 was Clerk of the Peace for Devon, and later developed a medicine for gout too. According to here he was 1740-98, of Collins, Bere Ferrers, near Tavistock, mining engineer - https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-260309; also a correspondent with the Society of Arts] “At Walker’s colliery a corf was brought up 95 fathom in a minute and half. At Mr Brown’s 100 fathom in a minute. At Walker’s 11 keels equal to 176 London chaldron per day besides the refuse. When the coals are got up they are passed over a screen or sieve [Brown’s coal screen!] the bars of which lie at such distance from each other as to admit the small to pass through which would not be fit for market and of these smalls vast quantities are everywhere to be seen. 191 From the two works at Walker’s Colliery there had been sent to London this year 64,000 London chaldron. There are 25 engines in this neighbourhood within the compass of two or three miles and about 5,000 people employed in the collieries” Returns to Newcastle about 3pm passing “by another large colliery called Wall’s End Colliery [Wallsend Colliery]. Here some of the best coals are got for London and it is so denominated from its being situated near the extremity of Severus’s Wall, near the ruins of which we travelled some time. After dinner Mr Brand left us and set off for London and Mr Cramlington sent to the inn a sample of a particular coal got at his works called splint coal. Some of it was lighted but though it burnt fiercely it cracked and flew too much to be of 192 use in fires in houses, but perhaps might be usefully employed in reverberatory furnaces.” Visits “the chief parts of this large and opulent town where there are many good houses but like all other old towns the streets of the old town are very narrow and towards the river very steep and bad. In the evening some of the tenants to the Duke to whom many of the collieries belong were with him renewing leases and after supper his grace asked me whether I had ever seen York. On my answering in the negative he with his usual politeness ordered that we should pass through York in our way to London. This day the plan of the intended playhouse was brought to us. It resembled in its form the playhouses of London without any novelty or peculiar elegance in the construction. 194 Thurs Sept 24: Visits Newcastle market in the morning … “here we met the boy P. Waddle [Peter Waddell] and the groom with the lead horses from Alnwick.” [already going down to Syon?] Leave Newcastle about 9am passing through Chester Le Street and leaving Lumley Castle on the left, coming to Durham for breakfast in a “very handsome inn … but the charge extravagant” Set out again, passing the duke’s waggon with the servants and baggage, changed horses at Rushyford and at Darlington. Met Lord Percy there, who tried to get them to visit his seat at Stanwick 9 miles away, but the duke declined, changing horses at Northallerton instead, taking the road to Thirsk 195 Thirsk “an indifferent town and the Three Tons the inn we slept at afforded but poor accommodations. Here we met Sir Matthew White Ridley and his Lady who were coming from Scarborough. Her ladyship was the daughter of a Mr Cockburne [actually Colborne], apothecary at Bath who[se] sister having married a gentleman of great fortune on her death left it to her niece.” Sunday Sept 25: Notes “the people of the inn knew how to take advantage of having a duke under their roof for the charges were more extravagant than at any other place we put up at.” Passed over a bridge by the house of Sir Thomas Frankland “which is old and not in a pleasant situation”, changed horses at Eisenwold “a large pleasant village” and arrived in York for breakfast 196 “The approach to York is open and noble, the road for some distance having large well-built houses on each side. It is a fine old city well paved and lighted in the new mode and the George the inn we put up at and [sic] excellent one and the charges very reasonable. I took the opportunity of the short time we were to stay here to visit the Minster … kept remarkably clean and neat.” etc etc on the Minster 197 Visited the assembly room “so celebrated for the beauty of its architecture and surely deservedly so. It was built by Lord Burlington after a design of Vitruvius and though it is certainly one of the best forms for what the original was intended, that is an eating saloon, yet for the purpose of a ball room to which it is now applied nothing can be worse adapted. So much does misapplication injure the best designs, the columns which are in the best proportion of Grecian architecture 198 have the lower parts of their shafts encumbered with seats for the spectators of the dancers, which seats not only spoil the effect of the range of columns but are so placed that even the spectators cannot enjoy the pleasure of seeing the company from them, though that is the only reason they have been placed there. The glass chandeliers are also in a very bad style, but the entrance to this room must not be forgotten which is at once extremely elegant and very commodious.” Left York at 12pm passing over the Ouse Bridge, noting that “in all my travels I have nowhere observed the avenues leading to any city so open, so magnificent and of so go[od] appearance as those on both side this city.” 199 Pass through Ferrybridge, and got to Doncaster at 5:30pm. They wanted to go on, but the servants were so wet from the rain “it was judged proper not to go on so here we slept this night at The George a very good inn with excellent accommodations.” Monday Sept 26: “Doncaster is a handsome well-paved down, the principal street of considerable length and a great thoroughfare. In it is an assembly room said to be built by Mr Payne and to have been his first work.” Left at 9am, passing through Bawtry to Barnby Moor to breakfast. “the country here is flat and in the neighbourhood an estate of Lord Galloway is to be sold valued at £40,000. Lord Algernon Percy had seen it but did not approve it.” Enquires after Mr Mellish, who he hears has returned from Buxton and is in good health 200 Changed horses at Clan Moor, and again at Newark “where an excellent new road has been made”; see from a distance the high spire of Claypole church, noting that “over the whole of this part of the kingdom are visible great numbers of fine churches with beautiful steeples and towers appearing everywhere highly ornamental” Dinner at Stamford “a large town”; he proposes they continue at night to Stilton to shorten the next day’s journey, so “the moons of the carriages were lighted and we set forward for Stilton” arriving at 10pm and stayed at The Bell. 201 Tues Sept 28: “The Duke having ordered some cheeses the staple commodity of this town to be sent to London, one of which he afterwards gave me, we left Stilton” at 9am “the innkeepers making great complaints that the high duties lessen the number of horses employed” [??? tax on horses?] Breakfast at Bugden [Buckden]; goes to the Bishop’s Palace where he meets his friend Mr Collins and spends some time with him and the bishop; then to Biggleswade “where the waters were much out”; then to Stevenage, turning right through Lord Melborne’s Park - etc on how beautiful it is; at Hatfield told that Lord Algernon had just left his house near Hitchin for London; 202 and that he would be overtaken at Barnet. “On the side of the park belonging to Lord Salisbury a very fine road is made by the improvements in the park are not in sufficient forwardness to enable a traveller to form an opinion concerning them” Lord Algernon waits for them at Barnet, and after dinner there together they arrived at 8pm “safe at Northumberland House.” ## Further Notes Based on the information gleaned from these and other sources, there ought to be a great many more such travel diaries by More. Here is the list I have surmised, with the above ones in bold: 1763 - **West Country visit** 1774 - West Midlands (Etruria, possibly Soho) 1776 - **West Midlands** 1780 - **Wales, Lancashire, West Midlands** 1781 - Lancashire (Castle Head) 1783 - **Lancashire, West Midlands** 1784 - **Wales, Lancashire, West Midlands,** Essex (Colchester) 1785 - **Derbyshire, Northumberland** 1786 - Lancashire (Warrington, Castle Head), Cumbria 1787 - Shropshire (Coalport), doing trials on bitumen 1788 - at Warrington 1798 - Cumbria? 1799 - West Sussex (Petworth) Throughout the 1785 diary More references the writing of a description of Alnwick Castle. This has now been located. It was misattributed to Peter Waddell, who was actually the young boy who did a few sketches for it. The archivist there is currently correcting the record and kindly provided me with scans of the document to check it. There is nothing in it of interest to historians of technology, however. I will add more to this as new information comes to light.